That's a big +1 in this department. I luckily didn't have to use the glue (or at least anywhere I noticed ) but it is a perfect set of stuff.

I just received my kit from Ron a few days ago.

i would pay money for some youtube videos from you restorers putting this kit into action.

There’s actually not much to it - you find the right bit for the shape hole/cut you are installing to, and use it on your Dremel. The glue is applied with a hypodermic needle Ron provides, and the whole thing is badass. He even included a special bit for me to rout out the Creature lagoon on MB, but in the end the clear actually helped to make a more precise fit, and I didn’t even have to rout much.
Here’s the description and how-to for the kit from the man himself:

509E279D-8072-4913-8BFF-8B831AA943E7 (resized).png

Can you please post some pics of how you are using the kit. I actually ordered a kit, but haven't had an opportunity to use it yet.

Use the triangle shaped bit that's slightly larger in diameter than drill bit you're going to use . Run it in far enough so that when you pre drill your holes the drill bit does not contact any of clear coat

I am really happy this kit has helped a lot of people. It came about because it helped me so much I wanted my customers to use it, then I realized all of the repro pf's that I haven't cleared need it more than my clear. The directions are just what it says in the post above. Its really a process and I include some tools. You use one of the dremmil bits to remove the clear down to the wood large enough so you can predrill and install the screw without hitting the clear. no chipping or cracking or lifting. Before this every drilled hole was nerve wracking.

It comes with a glue kit that I use on every hole that I make, just on the off chance in the future I have to pull out a pf post on a humid summer day and it may lift the clear. If you use the needle to run a little of the glue down the inside of the hole in the clear, when it hits the bare wood it will wick all around the hole locking it down. it also repairs any halo's that may have happened. here is a link to some pics on an old thread of mine. its about half way down the page. there is a lot of good info on that thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nosnew-playfields-available-as-of-june-5

I have got a lot of really good feedback in the 6 months this has been available. Honestly the kits wont do you any good on pf's that are before sys 11 that have not been cleared. I have not tried to use it on an uncleared diamond plate because I clear them all, so that I dont know. Any repro, or any pf that is cleared, these kits are a life saver. I know it is a matter of time before someone knocks it off, but the sales really help keep the lights on at my studio where I do pf's, and I really appreciate the support. The kits come with about 10 dremmil bits of shapes I chose, as well as a stone to clean the bits if they get gummed up from high speed. use lowest speed. the glue kits come with hypos and plungers, glue, and a measure tool for drill bits and screws and dremmil bits. and the price is 75$ shipping is 7$ Since I am hawkin here, I may as well mention the lo tac mylar I found and sell. I started using it for my games on free play at shows. now I use it on all games especially newer sterns. it is thin and invisible, and last like 4 years before I replace it. It is 2 sheets (8x11) for 5$ and 5 sheets for 10$. if you buy a kit add an extra dollar shipping for the mylar.

The install kit is very helpful for installing t nuts on the front and pop bumper lug screw/nails. these are the scariest things to do. by removing the cleat the t nuts dull teeth push right in, and the pop bumper nails sit flush with the surface. I wanna thank everyone for their support, and feel free
to contact me if you have any questions about this or pf's. I also keep a pf thread going at all times. it is sometimes very helpful, when others participate. cheers, ron kruzman

Ron,
I just bought your kit. I plan on installing 8 repro PF's over the next few years. I don't what the shelf life is on the glue. Will people be able to buy just the glue some time down the road?

kruzman is amazing. I have this kit. You should all buy one now.

Curious about this as well

The glue is a type of ca glue that is very thin and wicks well. it last a long time and you clean it with acetone. the good thing is if you need more needles or plungers or bits, I have all of that and will continue to have it all, I invested a lot in this already, which will last but also for my own use I wont install a pf without the kit. so if you need some more parts of the kit I can help for cheap. or I am experimenting with different shapes. I am trying to keeep the price down, but I have been slipping in extra bits to people to see if I hear that they helped.
so to the people who have used the kits please send me private suggestions if you have any about other stuff that would make it better even if it meant raising the price. I have to offer something for the people who dont have a shop like some of us are blessed with.
Thanks again. mr kruzman

My kit is on the way. Cant wait to get to the point of needing it! I am in the clear coating stage but getting closer to the Kruzman stage!!!

I never mentioned this in the description, but I try to customize the install kits to the pf I usually know you are installing. A few people are using the kit of stock cleared reproductions by cpr and mirco with great results.
I wanted to mention that I can include a bit to star roll overs. I test the pf's I clear to make sure a star post works freely, but I know it is not unusual for a reproduction to have too much clear in the roll over, and it is a great way to make a costly mistake. I have a bit that is just wide enough that if you have a clogged star insert, this will gap it.

so if you mention you need it i will put it in the kit rather than so other bit.

So I hope that answers some folks question.
cheers, kruzman

How much just for that bit Ron? I have 2 EBD playfields I plan to install.

if you have allready bought one of my kits and you are doing another specific pf , and you see it needs a special bit that I didnt include in your kit, just contact me and I will hook you up with a bit at no cost, if you just give me money for shipping. I am just giddy about the fact that this kit has got me so many thank you letters.

I also wanted to say I just got a shipment of 12 dozen bits, because I was out and I told a lot of people to contact me in a week or two when I had them in stock. SO now you can get ahold of me, since I am freshly stocked and can send out some kits. I also bought 124 sharpening stones that I will break in half to sent with the kit to clean the gummed up diamond bits if you melt the clear on it from going at too high of a speed.

I dont know if I will get arrested for this because of the attack on free speech lately. (I say that as a leftist politically). But the timeless adage, "giddy as a sissy with a bag full o peckers" cracks me up every time. Not the first laugh of the day (which is still to be had , but almost a giggle)

ok as always thanks to everyone who supports kruzman pinball playfields, and please feel free to chime in on this and my other thread with questions or comments, it just brings it up to the top.
cheers, kruzman

if you were waiting for me to get more glue kits in, I did get them today. If you need to you can contact me at [email protected]

thanks for the support. r kruzman

I found his kit very useful as well. Especially when installing GTB wire ball guides. They are finned and I was afraid they would crack the clear.
I ended up using one of the bits in Ron Kruzman's clear install kit. I used this super pointy one and barely touched the clear. The guides went in easily and didn't crack the clear. I also used a variety of his other bits on all of the holes to prevent the clear from cracking. I highly recommend getting his kit.

GTB wire (resized).jpg

IMG_3878 (resized).jpg

dremel bit (resized).jpg

I have been using this glue for years on this application. The way it comes is a little counter productive to storage. I include the 1oz bottles in my kit, and with many chemicals, the best case sennerio is to have a container that is full and allows little room for air. the bottle this comes in does not consider this, BUT I have had the bottles for over 3 years and there was no issues or deterioration.
This allows me to make a pitch, which is if you run out of glue applicators, or glue, or want another special sized bit, by all means, contact me and I will gladly get you parts you need.

The buzz has died down on this kit, and I really want everyone to have it available when they do a pf install (a pf that has automotive clear, weather a stock repro or one of mine.)

Also included in the kit is a tool that I find super helpful. Its just a chunk of stainless that has holes so you can measure your screwes and posts, or whatever to make the right decision on what drill bit to use and also to use it to make a circle of the correct size, using it to trace the proper size circle.

automotive clear likes to crack when you hammer a used t nut thru it. You can use this kit to remove the clear, and not worry about damage. Thats just one of the many things it does without damaging the clear.

Lastly I love seeing games from my era getting restored like joker poker. Amazing designed game. perfect game play and art, but since it wont fetch over 8 grand restored, only a couple people restore them.

If you need an install kit, please just contact me. they are $75 for the 2 kits, drill and glue.
Thanks for the product review, and thanks to everyone for the support!!!! KRUZMAN PF'S

I Just looked closely at the pics of that ball guide install. wowza!!! amazing job!!

Thanks and thanks to you for coming up with this.

It would be so nice if someone could make some youtube-videos on how to use the kit. I am planning taking on my first swap and it happens to be a WOZ. I wish it would have been a simpler pf, but what can one do.

Since every pf is so different, and people do the process so diferent, really all you need to know if the basic function. its like a tool and can be used so many ways.
You pics a dremil that is the shape and size needed, and on low speed remove the clear, down to the wood, enough for the drill bit and screw not to hit the clear. Once you have predrilled, load the glue in the applicator, and position it inside the top edge of the hole you made with your dremil. drip enough glue to run down the inside of the clear, and when it hits the wood, it will wick in very quickly and you will see it go under the clear around the hole you made. sometimes apply glue to both sides like 12 and 6 oclock on a watch.

Thats it. on things like t nut holes on the top side, pick a flat top bit and on slow speed remove the clear to the wood. use the glue the same way as I described above, to lock down the clear to the wood at the edges. the glue is not always necessary, but I always use it for insurance years down the road.

For pop bumper nail screws, pick a shape dremmil bit and remove the clear in the countersunk area, and make a hole wide enough for the head to sit in it flush. do your predrilling. glue down the edges of the clear where you removed it, and install.

Like most tools, you will find many applications and ways to use it. when you see a roll over wire switch slit, or a star roll over switch, use a very thin dremmil bit to remove the clear on slow speed. if you ever have any lifting of clear, it will usually draw in the glue when you apply in the right place, because it is so thin, and it gets wicked in.

The kit comes with a stainless gauge that has 32 or 64 holes in it for you to measure holes, screws, drill bits and dremmil bits. also I use it as a way to draw the right size circle on the pf to dremmil out. Also included is a small stone for cleaning the bits if they get clogged up with melted clear. (always use slow speed). You get 10-12 diamond bits, and ounce of glue, 6 applicators, they are 2 part.

I have got about 30 great letters from people who said it was a huge factor inn the success of the pf swap. Mostly folks who have done them before without the kit. I havent ever had a complaint.

Lastly if you have questions you can always contact me. my friend sells light kits, and he wrote great directions for the fairly simple procedure, and all day he gets emails from people who cant get it installed. Besides the instructions like above, that I have sent to a lot of people, I have always assumed that if someone is doing a pf swap, which in my opinion is a very complicated procedure, equivalent to swapping a motor in a car. This should make sense if you have done a pf or plan to, but if not I can help further.

Hope this helped explain. if not contact me. thanks, ron kruzman
and thank you to everyone who supports kruzman pf's in any way. cheers!

I just re read your post on your first pf swap is going to be a WOZ. and you said what can you do. I think it was a rhetorical, but I HIGHLY suggest you either be a helper on a couple pf swaps first or you buy another game and do a swap. after 15 pf swaps you will still be learning big lessons, and that game is absolutely not the one to start on. I say that because of its complication and 96 inserts, but also its cost!!!! its too dang expensive to be a learning experience.
I say this with all respect, from someone who has screwed up and made very expensive mistakes.
cheers, ron k

Thanks Ron! I have tried to seek a person to do the swap without luck. So maybe the wise thing for me to do now is that I will only do a decal and cover the damage with it.

MY email is [email protected]
if you want to, send me a pic, and I will give you my opinion. Wont cost a dime, but isnt worth it either

Any particular thoughts about the restored playfield where the new clear has already dripped down through the existing holes? Do you still recommend shaving the clear down (and bevel it) around the holes and add the glue, or if there is enough clearance leaving it? I suspect the new clear can still separate and halo around these holes, but just wanted your confirmation on that.

When it comes to cut outs having too much clear in them, or having drips, I do have a strong opinion based on experience.
before I came up with the install kit that I am always hawking, I used to use a file on the drips or clear that is too thick. Quite often a reproduction would come in for a clear coat and I had to clean up all of that stuff before I start, and several times, it makes me so angry to say that when I would file, the up swing would lift the clear off the pf surface, producing a ghosted area. It used to make me furious. I would remember to only do down motion on file, until... I would forget. The one that comes right to mind was a totan. it was the slit in the shooter lane under the skill shot assembly. I let that pf sit as a reminder for like 2 years until I sold it at a deep discount.

The install kit that we are talking about is perfect and much safer than a file for this situation. Many times you cant get a mantis ball hole protector without trimming away some clear. I test many of them before I ship, (same as star roll overs) but some of them I cant because I dont have the mantis protectors to check.

so great question!!!!

The other situation is on roll over wire shitch slits, the cnc machine didnt do a smooth job (on repros) and there is wood fibers sticking out which grab clear, then obstruct the switch wire. I have a bit in the kit for that situation.

A little more on the repro pf that I lifted the clear when I filed off the runs. I set the pf so gravity would run the glue in to the ghosted area, and I used the included applicators' eyelet right at the spot where the original clear hits the pf. At the same time I pushed on the surface of the pf, on the ghosted area and when I let up it pulled in the glue some, but only about 1/3 of the way in. The ghosetd area was an inch deep! so frusterating. I dont know if they still do, but on the ft and totan, and a couple other titles from that era, cpr started using a suryp like marerial on the pf before clearing to protect the clear from melting the inserts. On those mentioned titles its common to have that browm martrial running down thru the holes and the sides. The consistance of that stuff is sticky, so clean your bits with the little stone I send. also always use the low speed on your dremmil

It seems that folks dont know if my install kit is still available. It will be as long as I can continue to get the bits, and the other parts of it. So you can just contact me if you have any questions or need one.
cheers, kruzman

Hello. if you are waiting for me to have more install kits, I finally got a shipment of the dremmil bits, so feel free to contact me.
To be clear this kit works awesome for reproductions that have production cleared like CPR, and mirco. The key is to remove enough clear to be able to drilol without touching the clear. No chips, cracks, lifting. Not to mention you can make the pop bumper nail screws sit flush. I also love removing the clear out the the holes for the t nuts, so the dull teeth just go thru wood and not hard clear.
Price on the kit is still 75$ including the glue kit and the measuring tools.
Thanks to everyone who supports kruzman pf's

https://pinballplayfieldskruzman.com/
new web site

I’ve been working with this kit on a BSD swap i’m doing. One thing i found it especially useful for was to prep the pf to drill a missing hole from the topside, or where the dimple wasnt even close. I marked where i needed the hole, then removed the clear in that area. Then i went ahead and remarked the spot, created a dimple (with this spring loaded tool that fires a pin into the wood) and then drilled it out. I believe if i just created the dimple in the clear i ran a huge risk of cracking the clear. Not a chance i was willing to take. The tool im refering to centers itself in the holes in mechs etc which works perfect for me.

Anyway - Ron’s kit has been helpful for me and once you start doing the swap it becomes very clear (pun intended) what each piece is for.

I think what you are talking about is an automatic center punch. I used to have one in my metal shop back in chicago, and I dont know what happened to it, but now I think I will get another. great tool to have. people use them to break car windows, and they work very well. A kid broke in to my car using one and they dont make any noise except the glass falling. In downtown chicago, broken tempered- glass is one of the prettiest fauna in the urban area, Although Very common.

I am reviving this post since a couple people have contacted me in the last 2 days for info on it. I do have the kits in stock. They are $82 shipped in the us, or I can deliver to the patz.
Thank you for your support. rk