So I've had some difficulties with my TOTAN and game resets. It was a battery leak, not VERY bad though. It happened a while ago, I cleaned the MPU with vinegar, then with distilled water, installed a remote battery holder - resets went away.

Today my games were moved to another part of the house (I think the battery holder might have slipped and as it fell from its place it could have pulled the connecting cables a bit). I inspected the backbox and all seemed fine.

In its new location, I turned it on and saw the dreadful "Factory settings restored". Measured 28th pin of the RAM, read 3.63V so that's normal. From the battery holder it measures 4.76V so that's good too. I decided to play a game. I'm playing normally, then I break the low record and the knocker goes off causing the game to die. It was simultaneous - knocker hit, straight after that it reboots into "Testing..." etc. I left it on and soon the horrible nightmare comes back - the DMD goes off, GI goes off, only humming and translite lighting stay on. It did beep twice though and then it ejected the games caught in the Harem lock.

Any suggestions? MPU board dead? Diagnostic LEDs all show fine. Any tests I can do?
Help!

No, it went back down. It might have been a coincidence though (although the chances are low, something like getting struck by a lightning four times when going back from the store with your lucky 100 million dollar lottery ticket).

Any board tests you can recommend?

All the dodgy looking solders on the MPU board???????

I'll do that first, maybe that will work.

Anyway, what about the DMD off + GI off thing? Only translite lighting works.

Should I just replace my MPU board for a Rotten Dog? I know it's costly, but I heard they're very durable.

How? I'm still a newbie in those repairs so please excuse my inaptitude.

Damn... 5.12V on the test points. Game booted up without "Factory settings restored".

I really don't like it when it throws on this tantrum when it just randomly decides to mess about with me and then goes back to being normal.

I'll reflow all the solder, might be a cold solder somewhere that sometimes decides it "ain't go do no work today" and messes everything up.
Alright, thanks! I'll keep posting if this recurrs.