(Topic ID: 125102)

Knocker killed my game


By snowvictim

4 years ago



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  • 19 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by snowvictim
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wpc95.jpg

#1 4 years ago

So I've had some difficulties with my TOTAN and game resets. It was a battery leak, not VERY bad though. It happened a while ago, I cleaned the MPU with vinegar, then with distilled water, installed a remote battery holder - resets went away.

Today my games were moved to another part of the house (I think the battery holder might have slipped and as it fell from its place it could have pulled the connecting cables a bit). I inspected the backbox and all seemed fine.

In its new location, I turned it on and saw the dreadful "Factory settings restored". Measured 28th pin of the RAM, read 3.63V so that's normal. From the battery holder it measures 4.76V so that's good too. I decided to play a game. I'm playing normally, then I break the low record and the knocker goes off causing the game to die. It was simultaneous - knocker hit, straight after that it reboots into "Testing..." etc. I left it on and soon the horrible nightmare comes back - the DMD goes off, GI goes off, only humming and translite lighting stay on. It did beep twice though and then it ejected the games caught in the Harem lock.

Any suggestions? MPU board dead? Diagnostic LEDs all show fine. Any tests I can do?
Help!

#2 4 years ago

Did the knocker coil lock on?

#3 4 years ago

No, it went back down. It might have been a coincidence though (although the chances are low, something like getting struck by a lightning four times when going back from the store with your lucky 100 million dollar lottery ticket).

Any board tests you can recommend?

#4 4 years ago

I would check that you are getting good 5v power. Resets are most often caused by an issue with the 5v from your power supply and WPC games are known for 5v issues.

#5 4 years ago

Here is a good page to read to get started.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm#reset

#6 4 years ago

I had the same issue on my T-2 that came with a repaired cpu that had previous alkaline damage. It would only reset when the knocker fired. It took a lot of time to figure out the problem. The vibration from the knocker was affecting weak solders on the cpu. It took out the cpu and re-soldered every one that looked marginal and that fixed the problem.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

I had the same issue on my T-2 that came with a repaired cpu that had previous alkaline damage. It would only reset when the knocker fired. It took a lot of time to figure out the problem. The vibration from the knocker was affecting weak solders on the cpu. It took out the cpu and re-soldered every one that looked marginal and that fixed the problem.

All the dodgy looking solders on the MPU board???????

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

All the dodgy looking solders on the MPU board???????

It worked. I tried everting before that including that special add on board that is supposed to prevent resets. Not saying that is your problem, but if you remove the plunger from the knocker and it stops, it might be a good place to start.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

It worked. I tried everting before that including that special add on board that is supposed to prevent resets. Not saying that is your problem, but if you remove the plunger from the knocker and it stops, it might be a good place to start.

I'll do that first, maybe that will work.

Anyway, what about the DMD off + GI off thing? Only translite lighting works.

#10 4 years ago

death by knockers?

Exactly the way I want to go....

(Resisting urge to post images)

Sorry for your trouble!

#11 4 years ago

Should I just replace my MPU board for a Rotten Dog? I know it's costly, but I heard they're very durable.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Should I just replace my MPU board for a Rotten Dog?

I would save that for a last resort. It is nice that they make them, but I have heard mixed revues including one I had of those. Vibration was the problem on mine, so I would make sure you are not losing the 5v to the cpu thru any connections as well. It took me a lot of time to narrow it down to the cpu on mine. And my cpu was as roached as they come. But it has been trouble free for over a year now.

#13 4 years ago

check your 5v regulator

I had a BSD that died right after the knocker went off, 5v regulator failed shorted, sent 12+VDC to every IC, had to replace a ton of parts, hopefully you didn't suffer a similar fate

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from flecom:

check your 5v regulator

How? I'm still a newbie in those repairs so please excuse my inaptitude.

#15 4 years ago

no problem, use a multi-meter set to DC Volts between these two test points (5V and GND)

(added two arrows to give you an idea where to look)

wpc95.jpg

you should get somewhere around 5v or so

#16 4 years ago

i heard of knockers being a distraction and ending a ball, but not killing the full game.

#17 4 years ago

Damn... 5.12V on the test points. Game booted up without "Factory settings restored".

I really don't like it when it throws on this tantrum when it just randomly decides to mess about with me and then goes back to being normal.

#18 4 years ago

It really sucks when it does it during an epic game where you are on ball one looking to get your best score ever and the knocker fires...

#19 4 years ago

I'll reflow all the solder, might be a cold solder somewhere that sometimes decides it "ain't go do no work today" and messes everything up.
Alright, thanks! I'll keep posting if this recurrs.

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