(Topic ID: 155764)

Knocked a Wire Out of Connector: Getaway; Kill Myself

By weaverj

8 years ago


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  • 44 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by weaverj
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 8 years ago

this day won't end.

i was just popping in some new wingnut bolts in my backbox. the right bolt wasn't cooperating, so i was in there screwing around too much i suppose. knocked a wire out of one of my connectors. i think it's going to j135. currently there's only a red/purple in pin 9. i have a loose yellow/green wire that's the only other wire bundled to the red/purple one.

any ideas where this thing goes?

#2 8 years ago

According to the manual the
Yellow green wire goes to J137 or J138 position 5.
Look at the connector with all of the yellow wires.
The manual can be downloaded at ipdb.org

#3 8 years ago

Sorry I don't know, just want to suggest being patient u til someone chimes in or you get ahold of a manual. I have hastily "tried out" what looked right and screwed up

Edit...I done got beat!

#4 8 years ago

J137-5 according to manual

image_(resized).pngimage_(resized).png

#5 8 years ago

These wires are for the controlled lamps.
The lamp matrix chart is at the end of the manual.

#6 8 years ago

It does look like it goes to J-137-5, see if there is a wire missing there on the connector.

#7 8 years ago

here's a quick pic:

IMAG0076[1]_(resized).jpgIMAG0076[1]_(resized).jpg

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from balboarules:

It does look like it goes to J-137-5, see if there is a wire missing there on the connector.

hey, man.

j137-5 has it's yellow/green.

#9 8 years ago

maybe j138-5? there's a connector there with no wires...

#10 8 years ago

Stop guessing.
Is that red/gray or red/violet.
That single wire connector is for the cabinet controlled lamps. It's a single wire because the cabinet doesn't have many controlled lamps; perhaps only the credit button.
If it's red/gray, stuff it into position 9, the left most position.
If it's red/purple, stuff it into position 8.
The wire colors will be consistent with the wire colors in the connector at J133.
J133, J134, and J135 are all electrically and functionally identical. It doesn't matter which female connector is placed on which male header.
Carry on solder.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#11 8 years ago

Wait. Sorry. You're talking about the yellow/green wire.
Yes, that goes into J138. It will be in the same relative position as the yellow green wire in the connector above it.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#12 8 years ago

how do you get a good fit of wire into connector? seriously solder? i'd think you crimp it somehow.

#13 8 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

It doesn't matter which female connector is placed on which male header.

Don't you wish real life was like that?

He meant carry on SOLDIER. Typo.
If you don't have an IDC crimper on hand you can use a very small flatblade screwdriver and carefully press the wire down in there - just be sure not to bend/misform the two spades that cut and hold the wire.

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

how do you get a good fit of wire into connector? seriously solder? i'd think you crimp it somehow.

Have you crimped wire before? Do you have a crimper and connector pins? If not I would suggest finding a tech in your area to help out. There's a thousand different ways to screw this up.

#15 8 years ago

i've crimped ethernet.

#16 8 years ago

Ya. That was supposed to be "soldier". Dang autocorrect.
There is a special tool to restuff that wire, but as noted, a screwdriver can be used carefully since you have only one pin to do. You could also get the right sized female housing, a crimp pin and crimper and take care of it effectively forever. Those are good tools and supplies to have around anyway.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#17 8 years ago

Sometimes when inserting a wire into an IDC you can use the corner of a credit card instead of a screw driver as to not damage the IDC. If you do use a screw driver please make sure it is a very thin one.

#18 8 years ago

I use the back of a regular X-Acto blade to push wires back into IDC's. Its thin enough to not bend the fins and get the wire right down in there.

#19 8 years ago

actually, i do have a crimper. i was thinking of a voice/data crimper. i don't have pins, however.

#20 8 years ago

do you insert the wire and bend the insulation down, then push into the back on the insulation to get it in there? or are you pushing down on the metal contacts on the connector to get a hold of the wire?

#21 8 years ago

do not put it into that connector with the red wire you are missing a connector that only has the yellow wire in it see pictures from my getaway

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#22 8 years ago

yes you have the connector pushed into the board , this wire goes into the 4th slot from the left on that empty connector , you should be able to push it into the slot with a small flat screw driver , look closely at my pictures

#23 8 years ago

looks like yours is yellow/blue. mine is yellow/green which i'm told should be j138-5.

#24 8 years ago

Good news newbie!

Fact is you can probably half-ass this without crimping. At least for now.

Strip some insulation off, and just shove the wire in there real good, like you are flossing teeth with it.

Then slap some electrical tape over the whole mess to hold it in.

It won't be pretty but it will work.

If you want to do it right, you need to buy connectors, pins, and a crimper. And it a different kind of connector as well. We don't use these shitty factory connectors when doing aftermarket work.

#25 8 years ago

You want one of these to put wires back into those types of connectors.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1590

mrt-156f_(resized).jpgmrt-156f_(resized).jpg

#26 8 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Good news newbie!
Fact is you can probably half-ass this without crimping. At least for now.
Strip some insulation off, and just shove the wire in there real good, like you are flossing teeth with it.
Then slap some electrical tape over the whole mess to hold it in.
It won't be pretty but it will work.
If you want to do it right, you need to buy connectors, pins, and a crimper. And it a different kind of connector as well. We don't use these shitty factory connectors when doing aftermarket work.

lXufnPX_(resized).jpglXufnPX_(resized).jpg

#27 8 years ago

yeah, i am reading up about the connectors now. the idc's from the factory are just "crimped" together i guess and you can "upgrade" to a molex connector with crimped pins.

pinball machine maintenance is deep. i feel like there's less stuff that could break on a car.

#28 8 years ago

heres some more updated pictures ,

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#29 8 years ago

your wire looks like it is connected into the connector in the 5th position from the left , so maybe the wire is broken off at the other end . follow it to the left and see where it goes too , might be broken

#30 8 years ago

i see shielding stuck in j138-6, where yours is. i swear this is yellow/green though. i'm going in.

#31 8 years ago

dive in . let me know how the water is !

#32 8 years ago

well, they're in there. not pretty. my little flathead did a job on the wires. powered on okay. anybody know what this would have been powering? the j135 and j138.

also, i think this wire is yellow/blue. i used a flash light in addition to the natural and overhead lighting. makes me feel more confident in the hack job.

#33 8 years ago

are there any credit dots , on power up does it go to test report ?

#34 8 years ago

i don't think there's a credit dot. test report says diverter error and check switch 78.

#35 8 years ago

i tested the diverter in test mode: seems fine. is diverter high suppose to hold position? it just flaps up then back down.

#36 8 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i tested the diverter in test mode:

Your game doesn't know what a diverter is. It knows a switch the ball hits before or after it didn't work when balls go by.

LTG : )

#37 8 years ago

is that an inside joke?

#38 8 years ago

Those connectors are for the lamp matrix.
WMS never implemented a feature to detect lamp failures.
Wires in or not, connectors on or not...the MPU doesn't care.
There is only one lamp that the single yellow/whatever and red/whatever wire drive in the cabinet. That's all two wires in the lamp matrix will power.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#39 8 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

is that an inside joke?

No, I was trying to help you learn.

LTG : )

#40 8 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No, I was trying to help you learn.
LTG : )

i see what you did there. just took a sec.

#41 8 years ago

just finished popping some led's in. fired her up and played two quick ones: seems okay. diverter/divertor worked...

the error "check switch 74 top lock" still comes up. is that the switch in the right lane that pops the ramp up?

#42 8 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

"check switch 74 top lock" still comes up.

There are 3 switches in the "hideout" wireform on the right. aka "donut heaven". The top one is being flagged.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#43 8 years ago

no its the last switch for the ball lock for multiball there are 3 switched , first switch is closest to the rod that is up to hold the ball then ball 2 is the next switch and finally the 3rd switch is for the 3 ball , check that , also if a switch is not activated after a while it will show up as an error , sometimes you just have to trigger the switch during game play to re-establish it

#44 8 years ago

yeah, i've read that before. could even get a credit dot, i believe. thanks, guys.

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