First, as far as Williams single player "Add a Ball" games go, it is normal on the early '70's series games for the the Tilt light to illuminate briefly when the last ball drains just prior to the Game Over light turning on. Without a schematic, I'm not sure but I'd guess a momentary contact switch on the score motor (on a cam with only one tip) is either dirty or out of adjustment/barely making contact. I have a Spanish Eyes schematic but my game room is in the process of being rearranged and games are taken apart so I can't get to the schematic to offer further help at this time.

As for your other problem, we have to isolate is the problem with the 5000 scoring which is tied to three wagons and three lanterns or since Klondike is an add-a ball style game, is the special also set to award an extra ball? If so, whenever a ball is added, the knocker is supposed to energize and make the noise. We have all seen many knocker solenoids burnt to a crisp, usually related to the replay unit being messed with or a stuck coin switch etc. Look at your knocker solenoid on the side of the main cabinet. If burnt, disconnect it and all should be fine. Replace the coil when you can.

If that's not the case, double check the "play adjustment" Jones plug. Make sure it is correctly plugged in. Try changing the setting if it was correctly installed and see if the game behaves differently.

Is it only the three kickout holes that cause the blown fuse and not the "Scores reel value" rollovers? if so, the proble lies in the "Eject relay" circuit but I can't understand why say having three mining pans would be different versus other combinations. I'm guessing that a fuse also blows when a Scores Reel Value rollover is hit with either 5000 point combination.

Look at the "5000" Relay; are any contact blades bent and hitting a blade they shouldn't? or look for solder splashes or wires off from the solder tabs making contact where they shouldn't.
Also look for the same thing on the "Rollover" relay since some circuitry is shared between these two relays.

Bruce

Must be a short somewhere. Look close at all wires maybe touching each other at contacts (crosstalk) give a little tug on them too. Check switch/wire connections with a meter for continuity.(saves fuses)

Check tilt relay and tilt assembly.

Cap the wire ends or tape them off preventing a short till you purchase an assembly.

I take it that it is not set up for free play?

From here >>
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Klondike&sortby=name&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#1388

Is this>>Reportedly, an unknown quantity of this game left the factory with the wiring incorrect on the right playfield score reel as compared to the schematic. Two wires were crossed which caused incorrect scoring on some score reel combinations.

Could be the short problem?

the score motor won't stop until I jiggle the little plastic / wire thing on the base of the coin shute.

Check the contacts they seem stuck.

Does it look similiar to this>>

// Error: Image 54868 not found //

Somebody bent the crap outta that.
Thats a common problem people do for free plays.

From your photo the trip wire is way off it must go in the slot where the coin will travel.
Also the contacts are stuck together and i cant really see but maybe the wires that connect to the contacts are touching?

1st Fix it by separating your contacts/electrical wire,(that will stop the score motor from spinning) then fix that trip wire like the post i put up previous in the slot if you want it to work with coins otherwise i would not worry about it( i would just leave it alone)

Set it up for free play by going to the back box and rigging it at the credit wheel

Read this to see how to do it>>> http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#free

Unplug the playfield jones plug (keep it away from other circuits) and then start the game and lets see what happens.
Isolating circuits this way going by previous first post.

Check your plugs.
Make sure the jones plugs are not in the wrong position or backwards.
If the jones plugs are dirty/corroded i would sandpaper them or a small wire brush by hand will do too.
400 grit should be fine enough.

Maybe give a PM to EM-PINMAN as he has a klondike and might have a schematic if its still acting up after trying the previous post.

if we can get a pdf of the schematic we can for sure help trouble shoot better!

It does sound like maybe the jones plugs are off by one slot. Ive done that before and experienced odd behaviours like that also

-- Jeff

Thanks for thinking of me Pin-it, but I do not have a schematic yet as my Klondike is a sitting project I will get to in Spring, but I will get one and manual down the road from PBR when I get ready to work on it as I always do.

My scanner is broken right now too but I have a new one I need to hook up, just have not got around to it. Technical difficulties, Please stand by........................

Ken

I have a Klondike schematic and a working scanner. I'll create a PDF tomorrow if I can.

Pafasa awesome. Especially with the number of Klondike posts lately

Here is a jpeg of the schematic. Should be good enough to work from.

KlondikeSchematic.jpg

Yikes! that didn't work at all. Does pinside resize images? How can I upload a larger file that will be readable?

Uploaded a high Rez s an of the Klondike schematic to ipdb today. Not sure how long it takes to show up.

Definitely a short there time to bust out the test meter check for a shorted coil ,wire,or solder joint let loose.

Not sure if you have seen this >> http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps << on rebuilding steppers

The high Rez schematic is available here. Hope it helps

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1388/Williams_1971_Klondike_Schematic_Diagram_continuous.pdf

Read this >> http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0351.html <<

Does the Game over light turn of when you start the game?

Score motor Index E should be closed
Game over relay white blu / green white should be closed for the outhole relay to fire
outhole switch should be closed

Capture.JPG

Wait! Before you go and tear down the Ball Count unit...Could it be as simple as a shorted ball release coil under the apron that is blowing the fuse? That coil is an "A 22-550" and is the same as the match unit step-up coil and the player unit step-up coil and the coin unit step up coil.

How have you isolated it to the backbox? Maybe I missed something, but earlier in this thread you mentioned that the game started up with 5 balls and scores reset when you unplugged the two jones plugs from the base of the cabinet. Then it acted really screwy when you plugged them back in. You can't plug those in backwards, but they can get shifted off by a row or more of pins. Assuming the game would start without errors with the playfield plugs removed, then the problem is on the playfield and not in the backbox. I would meter each coil on the playfield before I started to dig into stepper units.

Forgive me if you have already done this...just what I see based on the posts so far. Let us know what you find!

OK, I just wanted to clear that up. I thought you pulled the playfield plugs from the base of the cabinet. Sorry I missed that about the backbox. I am going to take a look at my Klondike schematics. I'll post again in a few.

Can you post pics or vids? Have you looked at the vids I have posted for Skybug in her thread?
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-klondike-startup-problem

Do you have a klondike manual? It shows a diagram of the ball count unit. What switches did you adjust?

My ball count unit is working properly. Would you like to see mine to compare? Same for Game Over Relay?

You mentioned that you adjusted switches and now it's worse. What switches did you adjust?

I have a crappy copy of the manual that I bought on Amazon thinking it was an original. Much of the text is unreadable. Would you consider making a high quality scan of your manual? It shows the details about all the relays and the steppers.

You should upload to IMBD, much better spot for manuals