(Topic ID: 81343)

Kiss repaint

By DrMark12PA

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 29 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Gatecrasher
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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Pinball Parts.jpg
2014-03-05 08.55.07.jpg
coin door2.jpg
lock bar.jpg
coin door.jpg
Lower playfield.JPG
IMG_0157.JPG
New Back box inside.JPG
Done 4.JPG
KISS cab restorebackbox 024.jpg
KISS cab restore 036.jpg
Before 1.JPG
Done 3.JPG
images.jpg

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#5 7 years ago

Removing the side rails is pretty easy. After removing the flipper buttons, you will find one bolt at the front of the machine for each side rail. After it is removed you will need to pry off the side rails.... Something broad and thin is gently driven up under the side rail. I have a unique little crow bar that I use. Just start at one end and gently pry the side rail. The nails come out pretty easily and can be reused.

Done 3.JPG
#8 7 years ago

Yes, I used the same nails....after I buffed them... I polish everything. If you notice any that are really loose you could fill them with wood filler before putting the rails back on, but I've never had to do that. The holes will get a little paint in them anyway. Just be careful when nailing them back into place...you don't want to miss the nail and dent the rail. This machine has a new playfield, new NOS back glass and a complete new cabinet... Here's what it looked like before the restore....

Before 1.JPG
#11 7 years ago

Here are some more photos of mine. All new aluminum sheeting in the back box as well. My cabinet has some modifications from the original. Original has a 1/4" gap in the bottom of the lower cabinet then a 1/4" sheet...very weak. I put a 1/2" sheet in the bottom that is flush with the cabinet side lower edges... Much stronger and will prevent the splintering of the lower edges. Also put in a cord storage hole. All buss wiring on the bottom of the playfield updated to 1/8" braid

Done 4.JPG New Back box inside.JPG IMG_0157.JPG Lower playfield.JPG
#13 7 years ago

Mine was pre-drilled for the most part and dimpled on the bottom to spot other locations. Generally the holes drilled all the way through are good. I do a lot of additional drilling so that stuff just screwed into the playfield isn't too tight resulting in wood distortion, especially on the top of the playfield. I like everything to screw in perfectly. You should note that sometimes the holes or the dimples are not in the right, or best spot. It's best to compare locations constantly with the original. As far as chipping the playfield they do make drill bits that cut the outer edge of any hole drilled, but I've never really worried about it because any minor chipping is covered by what you are attaching. Just use good sharp bits. If you are unsure of the right size bit to use, try it in a scrap piece of wood first.

#21 7 years ago

To get the inside of a coin door looking nice is a lot of work. I completely disassembled mine and used a wire brush (on grinder) and then a buffer wherever I can. Need to do the same to the lock down bar mechanism. Your coin door doesn't look to bad...I've seen much much worse. As far as screws go, I used to tumble them but found holding them in a pair of pliers and hitting the buffer really makes them shine. A really good use I've found for my vibration tumbler is to clean up old light sockets. Works great for them.

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