Mark, removing the playfield from any SS Bally machine is rather easy as it just consist of unplugging the wires from the boards in the backboard and then unscrewing some screws. If you're not familiar with how to do this post your location and ask if someone, here on Pinside that is close to you, would give you a hand!

IMO if you're going to take the time to repaint any game it's best to do it right and remove the rails, coin door etc. etc. and do it right! This way if you ever go to sale the machine it will appeal to more people!

Been awhile since I had a KISS machine but if I recall correctly all you need to do is remove the flipper buttons and the spiral nails. I have found that the spiral nails are typically loose in these older games but you always get a few that are in there good. Just need to be careful removing them as you don't want to bend up the rail and make it look like Scheiße.

So what you're thinking are rivets are actually spiral nails

_{Post edited by meSz : Added picture}

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Removing the side rails is pretty easy. After removing the flipper buttons, you will find one bolt at the front of the machine for each side rail. After it is removed you will need to pry off the side rails.... Something broad and thin is gently driven up under the side rail. I have a unique little crow bar that I use. Just start at one end and gently pry the side rail. The nails come out pretty easily and can be reused.

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Yes, I used the same nails....after I buffed them... I polish everything. If you notice any that are really loose you could fill them with wood filler before putting the rails back on, but I've never had to do that. The holes will get a little paint in them anyway. Just be careful when nailing them back into place...you don't want to miss the nail and dent the rail. This machine has a new playfield, new NOS back glass and a complete new cabinet... Here's what it looked like before the restore....

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Your game turned out great! I have the new playfield, backglass, plastics, and bumper caps standing by.....did my cab repaint last year and it turned out really nice.

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Yes just pry them out like FreePlay40 advised in his comment.

Or what you can do is take a toothpick, put some glue on it and than inset it into the hole and cut it off flush with the cabinet. You can then put a spiral nail back into the hole and that toothpick will make the spiral nail very snug again!

Here are some more photos of mine. All new aluminum sheeting in the back box as well. My cabinet has some modifications from the original. Original has a 1/4" gap in the bottom of the lower cabinet then a 1/4" sheet...very weak. I put a 1/2" sheet in the bottom that is flush with the cabinet side lower edges... Much stronger and will prevent the splintering of the lower edges. Also put in a cord storage hole. All buss wiring on the bottom of the playfield updated to 1/8" braid

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Did you have to drill the new pf? I have to, have never done it before - its been cleared, and I'm pretty nervous about chipping it or doing something wrong -

Mine was pre-drilled for the most part and dimpled on the bottom to spot other locations. Generally the holes drilled all the way through are good. I do a lot of additional drilling so that stuff just screwed into the playfield isn't too tight resulting in wood distortion, especially on the top of the playfield. I like everything to screw in perfectly. You should note that sometimes the holes or the dimples are not in the right, or best spot. It's best to compare locations constantly with the original. As far as chipping the playfield they do make drill bits that cut the outer edge of any hole drilled, but I've never really worried about it because any minor chipping is covered by what you are attaching. Just use good sharp bits. If you are unsure of the right size bit to use, try it in a scrap piece of wood first.

Good thinking - I have read to use Forstner bits (the ones you described) but thought that might be a little overboard. Thanks, and fantastic looking game!

Don

Actually it's not overboard. Regular bits can grab the clear-coat and pull it away from the surface or crack it instead of drilling it. The Forstner bits won't.

Mark, it's not hard at all. Just take your time. With the questions you have asked so far I would just recommend taking a lot of pictures so you can refer back to them when you start to put your game back together. Pictures are VERY helpful not to mention it's nice to have the before and after pictures! Where you located???

I used an automotive paint on the BOPP machine I restored but I know several people use the Krylon rattle cans and have had great success with it! It comes down to a matter of what you have to do the job. If you don't have a compressor etc than the rattle cans might be the route to go.

As for stencil kits for KISS, I would ask others that have done a KISS machine for their input. I know Classic Arcade has them but I know of two people that had issues with their kits being made from real thin material. I don't know this to be true, only what I have heard. I also know Pinball Pall has them (http://pinballpal.com/products/stencil/#KISS) for $119 but I have no knowledge of their products.

To get the inside of a coin door looking nice is a lot of work. I completely disassembled mine and used a wire brush (on grinder) and then a buffer wherever I can. Need to do the same to the lock down bar mechanism. Your coin door doesn't look to bad...I've seen much much worse. As far as screws go, I used to tumble them but found holding them in a pair of pliers and hitting the buffer really makes them shine. A really good use I've found for my vibration tumbler is to clean up old light sockets. Works great for them.

In case you haven't seen it, check out this link to a HEP thread where he restores KISS

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album425

I asked Chris once what his process was for polishing metal and he advised "When metal is good enough to rework as is then it is polished with a paste and hand buffed. I prefer Flitz metal polish."

You can get yourself a can (see picture below) of "Outdoor Clear #8321 Lacquer" and spray the parts. It will coat and protect the parts.

I have used a buffer as well as used 00000 steel wool with Mothers chrome polish. Of course there are other ways to do this but this is what works for me!

Check out the pictures on Chris' site http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album328

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I manufacture replacement carriage bolts for the coin door and the side rails. They are made from pre-polished stainless steel and will look a whole lot better than clear-coated ones with the original zinc plating worn off them. Not to mention that they will stay looking nice forever.

I also manufacture some metal playfield parts and backglass lift channels & trim for Bally pins if you are interested.

If you need them, I also have a new set of nails too that will work.

Here's my Bally parts flyer:

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