Crystal Lake, IL
What happens with the lighting in test mode? Do they ALL flash?
(Topic ID: 181703)
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Quoted from Pinplayer1967:Whoever "restored" your game should be fish slapped for this. One of the best noises you can hear.
Yeah, and that is not a broken wire, it has been clipped on purpose.
Quoted from Sonic:From that data, nearly all your lights should be on all the time....you sure it was 100% when you played it at that guys house?
But, we all know a static shock could fry those too. Sounds like the board just went bad, it happens on these old solid states. Honestly, I would just bullet proof that game and get a new aftermarket light board.
Quoted from Torso718:When I arrived there the machine was already tore down. I'm thinking it was a problem for the seller too because the picture that he advertised when he was selling it looks almost like the picture I took myself when I started this thread. The SAME lamps are on and the SAME lamps are NOT lit. Go back through this thread and compare the 2 pictures. I think the SELLER WAS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM when he sold it to me.
Wait a minute....you told us you saw this thing working properly.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I thought he said he was TOLD it played flawlessly, not that HE played it and it was flawless...
Maybe sold by TC ???
Out this seller!
Quoted from Quench:I'm glad you took the initiative and measured everything. Those 4 chips are shot.
In the grand scheme of things this faulty lamp board is a minor issue. If the playfield or backglass had major flaws that were hidden then...
These boards are very easy to repair, so at some point now or down the track you may want to try and bring it back to life and in the process learn/improve your soldering skills.
You probably want to look at the solenoid knocker next. It should have a diode connected across the two lugs. The diode might be shorted and causing a fuse to blow (hence the wire to the solenoid being cut). You want to test the diode on it.
Even if it is a bad diode, just replace the whole coil. These things take a beating and are a common failure. A new coil will have the diode AND hopefully a new sleeve. If it doesn't, get a new sleeve too!
No need to short cut at this point, let's get this thing bullet proof
Quoted from Torso718:U1 was rather hot and looks a little burnt on the left side. The other two were room temp.
Pull that board and lets see the other side. Good news is those chips are socketed!
Did you ever contact your seller and give him the WTF??
Quoted from Torso718:My coil came today. Still waiting on the Aux. board. When a free game registers the coil triggers with no problem. The only thing is that it is not very loud at all. Could it be that the sleeve is too long?
This game is playing really well aside from the fact that the right flipper is a little higher than the left and it has been acting weak. One time it caused me to lose my ball. Any suggestions as to what I can do with it and the knocker coil?
Thanks in advance.
You mind sharing what you paid for this machine?
Quoted from klr650:That sleeve needs to be trimmed to the same length as in your original photos in post #44. Then you will hear some knocking!
Exactly
Quoted from Torso718:I paid $3100
Ok, you didn't get killed, BUT you did not get a fully rebuilt/working machine as the seller made it seem like you were getting. Looks like partial rebuild kits were installed on those flippers. Switches were not touched.
Some horrendous solder work too.
6 months later
4 weeks later
Quoted from Torso718:Ok, I switched the U10 chip with the U11 and it would not even boot when I turned on the machine. I switched them back, turned the machine on and all of a sudden it went into Attract Mode. So I shut it off and switched the pins again. I turned the machine on and again it went into Attract Mode. U10 chip and U11 are the exact same chip. The numbers on them are the same.
I checked all of the lights and targets and they are working fine. AND the sound came back! Everything is working great! Is it possible that one of the legs on either U10 or U11 was not seated properly? When I removed them I had to straighten out a couple of them on U10 (I think 1 and 21). I just assumed that I bent them taking them out.
So..... with that being said er, I mean typed, where do we go from here?
Your chip sockets need to be replaced.
1 week later
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