I've had some nagging problems with my Kiss before but was able to remedy all of them. Today it is 100%.

If your lamps are on but do not strobe during test mode, the first thing you need to do is to replace all the contacts in the MPU connectors. In addition, you need to replace all the rest of the connectors too.

Most-likely it is MPU connector J1 as mentioned earlier. But don't take the easy way out and attempt to reseat them and then give up or just rebuild the one that is currently giving you problems or you will be revisiting another connector-related issue in the future. Reseating usually doesn't work if the connector is shot. If it does work it's just a temporary rig that won't last.

Even though the person you bought this machine from claims it was "restored", from the pictures it looks like he only replaced the bare minimum of stuff he needed to get it up and running. The one thing he did that does look good was to replace the rectifier board with a nice aftermarket one. Originally this was the weak link with Kiss.

Here's the not-so-secret "secret" to getting old Ballys like this running reliable and not have to mess around with it again.

Replace ALL the connectors with brand-new inserts. After 40+ years they are always shot. Marginal at best.

Until you bite the bullet and replace all the connectors you will be pizzing in the wind trying to fix this thing. Don't waste your time buying anything else until you rebuild the connectors.

Here's a place where you can buy the stuff to rebuild all your connectors including the crimper tool:

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

It takes a little practice to get good at re-terminating the connectors but after doing a few you'll get the hang of it.

Changing bulbs isn't going to fix it. That's the least of your problems.

I don't know everything but I've been in your exact shoes on this particular pin and many others from the era.

Kiss is unique in several ways. I had a baffling problem that for the life of me couldn't figure out. It turned out to be the auxiliary lamp driver board which controls the "k-I-S-S" on the back box. It would play great for a while and then reek havoc with the entire machine after it warmed up a while. But fixing all the connectors was the first step to solving the problem. As long as there is the possibility that some aren't making contact (or are marginal) you really can't get to the bottom of what's going on... and these machines always need new inserts. You can probably get away without doing the displays if they all work but the rest need replaced. Your rectifier board has already been switched to the newer style so it should be OK.

You'll need the crimper from Big Daddy and a bunch of .100 & .156 connector inserts. You will also need a small screwdriver to remove the old inserts and a wire stripper to prepare the wires for the new inserts to be crimped. If you did the Gorgar you shouldn't have too much of a problem. It's just a little tedious but well-worth the effort.

More times than not, wiggling the connectors doesn't do anything. Neither does re-seating them if the inserts are fubar. The only thing doing either proves is that there is a connector problem if things start to work. If there is no change, there's still a good chance you have a connector issue.

There is only so much that can go wrong with SS pins. That's why they are actually very easy to diagnose and repair if you approach the problem(s) in a systematic fashion and don't make any unfounded assumptions. The first step is to eliminate the connectors as being the problem. You can either do that by replacing them all or get out the VOM and trace each wire.

That changes things. I was under the impression that you checked the machine out before you bought it and everything worked but after you got it home it didn't. If it worked when you got it and now it doesn't, it would most-likely be a connector issue. Almost certainly.

But since you didn't see if it worked, it could be just about anything.

Personally, I would have required the guy to show me that it worked before buying it. Especially if I was going to pick it up.

You are still going to need to rebuild all of the connectors. I wouldn't trust anything the previous owner did now.

Do you have another Bally SS pin you can remove known working boards from and swap them out? If not, you might want to try to find another Pinside member in your area that can help you.

Worse case, you can send all of your boards (except the rectifier which appears to be brand-new and should be OK) out to someone and have them checked/repaired. You can send them to me if you want and I'll test them for you. You pay for the shipping.