Your chip sockets need to be replaced.

nice, so it's pretty much all working ?

questions for Quench
would just re-seating the chips knock whatever scaling off that developed over 40 years?

I need an inexpensive logic probe, anything you'd recommend or avoid ? ebay.com link: sch

imma go & play a KISS right now go glad you got yours going Torso718

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-logic-probes

Were these bent pins at right angle under the chip? If yes they caused the dead state when you first swapped the chips.

Is this still happening?

Maybe, but I don't expect this will "fix" it for very long. Pictures of the MPU board earlier in this thread show it's in very nice shape (no battery corrosion). The IC sockets might be tired though.
BTW did the logic probe thread by terryb help? My logic probe is similar to the one in his thread.

yeah searched "ELENCO LP-560" on E-bay and ordered one there. great thread

played a KISS last night & had a great time

Go into lamp test mode and press various chips on the MPU board (U10, U11) etc, i.e. with the intention of flexing the MPU board a little.
Also wiggle the J1 connector on the MPU board and J4 connector on the primary lamp driver board.

Do those playfield lamps start lighting/flickering.

the manual say's the first push is the lamp test , 2'nd push 0-9 display ect.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1386/Bally_1979_Kiss_Manual.pdf

the sockets mentioned above are suspect as swapping them 2 chips seems to get things going (U10 & U11?), also could be cold solder joints on various header pins as those were being manipulated as well. (plugging & unplugging the board)

The moment you first press the self test button it should start the lamp test - you've done it in videos above. Just press it for half a second.

Otherwise just do those tests I asked above in post #210 during attract mode. The point is to see if there's any change in behavior with the playfield lamps or if the game crashes/hangs due to bad IC sockets when you flex the MPU board.

You've got bad data in the battery backed RAM. You need to clear this audit and set the score level award again - you should probably redo the other score level awards too.

Press the red switch marked S33 at the top right of the MPU board to clear the value to zero "00". Then set the score level award you want.
The S33 switch is used to clear each setting/audit when you're previewing them.

I'll come back to you on the lamps.

Regarding the lamps, connect your logic probe alligator clips as mentioned in post #200
Then probe:
a1) Main lamp board U1 pin 1 (left most bottom pin of U1)
a2) Main lamp board J4 pin 13

b1) Aux lamp board J1 pin 3
b2) Aux lamp board U1 pin 11 (very middle pin along the left side of U1)

c1) MPU board J1 pin 11
c2) MPU board J1 pin 8

d1) MPU board U10 pin 19 (second right pin on the bottom of U10)
d2) MPU board U11 pin 39 (second left pin on the top of U11)

These are all lamp strobe signals from the MPU board to each lamp board. You should see pretty much the same indications on your logic probe at all points.
Make sure your logic probe point is making good contact with the chip pins you're probing.

Oh, it's not a logic probe for electronics..

I need to ask, did this playfield lamp problem suddenly appear out of the blue or did it happen after you were doing work on the machine?

I hate the gunshot approach, but there's only so much that can be done without the right diagnostic tools. So please put a new terminal pin on each end of the the wire at the following two locations:
MPU connector J1 pin 11
Primary Lamp Driver board connector J4 pin 13

This wire is the Lamp Strobe #1 signal from the MPU board to the Lamp Driver Board and is my faint suspicion of being open circuit at the connector on either end that might be causing your problem.

Umm yeah, the MPU board connectors have pin 1 on top counting down, meanwhile the main lamp board connectors have pin 1 on the bottom counting up :-/
Actually, the Aux lamp board also has pin 1 on the bottom of the connectors counting up.

We might as well try the tests with your red multi-meter and see if it produces anything meaningful.

Set your multi-meter to read DC voltage on the 20 volt scale (i.e. point the meter dial to the "20" position which on a dial clock would be between 10 and 11).

Connect the black meter lead to ground - you can use test point 2 "TP2" on the lamp board which is ground and keep it connected there for all the below tests.

Connect the red meter lead at the following points one at a time and record/report the voltage measurements:

a1) Main lamp board U1 pin 1 (left most bottom pin of U1)
a2) Main lamp board J4 pin 13 (13th pin from bottom of J4)

b1) Aux lamp board J1 pin 3 (3rd pin from bottom of J1)
b2) Aux lamp board U1 pin 11 (very middle pin along the left side of U1)

c1) MPU board J1 pin 11 (11th pin from top of J1)
c2) MPU board J1 pin 8 (8th pin from top of J1)

d1) MPU board U10 pin 19 (second right pin on the bottom of U10)
d2) MPU board U11 pin 39 (second left pin on the top of U11)

Torso, if your soldering skills are good, and the sockets on your MPU are originals, then they are 40 yeras old and need replacing. With that being said, U2, U6, U7, U8, U9, U10, and U11 should all be replaced. However, if your soldering skills are not good, I suggest spending the $200 on an Alltek MPU, and all your problems will be solved!

Also, That Aux lamp driver board that you had replaced looks used still, and should probably have the connector pins on the back side of the board at least solder reflowed, but I would suggest replacing the solder on the pins. Meaning suck the old stuff off and add new solder. This should really be done on all connector pins on all boards.

For $160 you can't beat this,

http://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

Hmm, somethings not right. None of those voltages should be above 5.

Oh, you disconnected J1 and J4 during the tests? No, they must remain connected otherwise the signals aren't reaching their destination. You need to insert the multimeter probe into the connector where the wire is going in to measure that signal.

See the below example pics of the main Lamp Board being measured:

Lamp_Board_Measure_Strobe 003a.jpg
Lamp_Board_Measure_Strobe 004a.jpg

Check all the fuses on the rectifier board - if you're lucky you've only blown fuse F3 and caused no other damage..

Which diode did you accidentally touch? Post a picture pointing to it.

Umm, you're connecting the black meter lead to the wrong TP2. The picture you've shown is of the MPU board.
Need you to connect the black multi-meter lead to TP2 on the lamp driver board, not MPU board. See the pictures I posted above in post #226.

It can happen to anyone, I read negative DC voltages all the time, and I bet ya never knew a pinball would run backwards if you fired it up with the AC inputs reversed... sure enough

But seriously- keep trying, the only way to learn the difference is to confuse stuff the first time. Seriously though, this next part comes from a good place but is going to sound harsh... start taking a little more time to go to a manual or on line resource and look up what you need to confirm exactly what your working on, your often looking at the wrong spots and eventually your going to break or fry something if you keep this up!. Not a rant, just how its gotta be if you want a working game. Slow down and work after your confident your working on the right spot. If you have questions, post a photo and ask- I do that shit all the time.. trust me you look good for asking, there is no stupid question.

Remember your working on a computer, but have access to all the inputs and output wiring in a way that just does not happen anymore, because everything is gigantic sized its really easy to break these because you can easily touch components together- they are so wide open.

Heh, it would have been nice if the test point numbers on all boards referred to the same thing.
.

Yes, black meter lead stays on TP2 of the lamp board. This is a ground reference point - for most voltage measurements, black meter lead goes to ground. Red meter lead goes to the points you want to measure.

After you do the measurements, can you do one other thing?
The two wires you are measuring at the MPU J1 connector (pins 8 and 11) each tell their respective lamp boards to activate lamps. With the game off, can you swap these two wires around on that connector and let's see if the fault remains on the playfield lamps or if the missing lamps now occur on the aux lamp board.

This will tell us if the problem is related to the MPU board or the main lamp driver board.

Thanks.

With the MPU J1 pins 8 and 11 still crossed over, can you make a video with the game in lamp test mode. I'd like to see the full range of lamps that are working now. Please put the backglass on though, because the reflection of the backglass GI lighting is a blinding the playfield.

There are some weird things going on with your voltage measurements - I'll come back to you on them after I see the lamp test mode video.
BTW, can you replace the battery in your multimeter - the "BAT" on your meter display is telling you the battery is flat.

Thanks for the new video.

All your voltages are showing negative which isn't right (see the minus sign on the meter display). I wonder if it's because of the flat meter battery or if there's ground issues with the game. Replace the 9V battery in your multi-meter first and then we'll revisit this.

That 7.08 volt reading at test A2 doesn't make sense since there's no 7 volts going to the main lamp board so it's a bit of a worry.
Can you tell me the color of the wire at the main lamp board connector J4 pin 13?

Please restore the two J1 MPU board connector wires in their correct positions and also let me know the original color wire that's in pin 11 of MPU connector J1 as well.

You're not having much luck..

The pics confirm the wire colors are matching at both ends and is the correct wire.

The MPU board has a signal called Lamp Strobe #1 that flags the main lamp driver board to activate lamps. There's a second signal called Lamp Strobe #2 from the MPU board that goes to the Aux lamp driver board.

The voltage measurements you've taken above are measuring the source of these two signals and at different points in their path until they reach their destination. These two signals should measure the same at the respective points along the way.

When you swapped these two signal wires at the J1 connector on the MPU board, it showed that one of these signals isn't working coming off the MPU board and that the problem is not your main lamp driver board.

The Lamp Strobe #1 signal that appears to not be working comes from the U10 (6821) chip on the MPU board. We need to revisit swapping the U10 and U11 chips on the MPU board around as a test. Do it again with the machine OFF. Take care when removing and installing the chips as to not bend the pins, and *don't* rotate the chips. After you've swapped the chips, with the machine still off disconnect the J4 connector from the solenoid driver board - the suspect signal on that original U10 chip will now be controlling solenoids and we don't want it to lock any of the coils on.
Power the game on and let us know what happens with the playfield lamps.

With the multi-meter dial on the same setting as above (DC 20V scale), measure the old 9V batteries to see how far they've discharged (black meter lead on the "-" battery connection, red meter lead on the "+" battery connection. You don't need to re-calibrate the meters after installing new batteries.

Thanks.
Ok so the U10 chip is probably ok. You can just leave them swapped since they're the same type of chip.
Problem is likely to be the U10 socket.

Put your yellow meter in resistance ohms mode by pointing the dial to "2000" at the bottom.
Make sure the machine is OFF.
Connect either meter lead to the MPU board U10 pin 19 (second right pin on the bottom of U10)
Connect the other meter lead to the top of resistor R75 on the main lamp board. If possible, provide a picture showing the meter reading. We're doing a partial check of the lamp strobe #1 signal from the U10 chip to the lamp driver board.
I'm re-using an old picture below so ignore the red meter lead on the chip.

LampDriverBoard1.jpg

Hmm, that's a good reading.. This is getting weird.
Can you redo the "A2" voltage measurement from above where you got that strange reading of 7.08 volts? Also redo the "A1" reading please.

Then remove the wire from pin 13 of J4 on the lamp board. When you start the game and go to attract mode lots of playfield lights should now flash/flicker. Do they?