It's the right part number according to the Kiss manual (AR-26-1200) so should be right. The sleeve looks too long on the back but you can cut it to the same length as the old sleeve.

Just wondering how much you paid for the game? I have restored a Kiss machine, new play field, new plastics, LEDs and i got a spare backglass thats never been used. Cabinet looks good. Just trying to get an idea on what to charge. I am a huge kiss fan so I am having hard time letting it go, but problems like the one you are having scare the crap out of me.
Good luck with the new machine, its a piece of artwork for sure! Hopefully the repair will not cost too much.

Yes, that's it. Proper sleeve too.

Your coil is toast...

The diode is probably ok. Looks like the previous owner cut the knocker wire for reasons other than a malfunction.
You have a nice looking machine, and the winding at the coil lug is now broken so give it some love and install a new coil
Remember green wires connect to the coil lug where the banded side of the diode is connected.

In terms of the humming noise, give this a try:
There are two screws holding the sound board to the metal back plane. Remove those two screws and slightly pull the sound board towards yourself enough so the board doesn't touch the metal frame behind it at the screw points. If the level of hum goes down, just install some fibre washers to insulate the sound board from the metal backplane. I've done this on my machine and have seen others do it too with this Bally sound board for this same reason. Otherwise you might need to change the filter capacitors on the sound board.

There are 3 chips on the aux lamp driver. I believe they are clocks that cycle the letters. If one of those is bad it wont work. I ended up not repairing mine and just buying a new board, i think they were 55 dollars

Wiggle the J1 connector on the Aux lamp board. If lamps start working properly, remove the aux lamp board, check the soldering on that J1 pin header and if you see cracks, resolder them. If there's no solder cracks, then change the terminals in the J1 cable connector.

If there's no change, then put the game in lamp test mode and if the lamps in "KI-S" are still stuck on, your Aux lamp board probably has similar problems like your main lamp board had. Do any of the chips on that Aux lamp board get hot?
If you want to try and diagnose the chips like we did with the main lamp board let us know and post a clear picture of your Aux lamp board.

Pull that board and lets see the other side. Good news is those chips are socketed!

Did you ever contact your seller and give him the WTF??

Ouch! bottom right of the board next to the screw hole experienced a short at some point...

yeah, that trace is open and some bad solders too.

Probably time to replace that board.

Can you post a picture of the area in the head where you removed the board from? Curious why the short is there.

Yeah, U1 is toasty, it's 100% gone.

The trace where you have the burn spot is actually connected to ground so if it touched the metal frame, nothing should have happened.

Can you post clear pictures of the two cable connectors that plug onto this board so we can see if someone has incorrectly wired it at some point?

Just buy a new one at this point $45

http://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

Wire colors look ok.
You can either replace the board or repair it.
The trace where that burn mark is goes to pins 8 and 9 of connector J2 and your cable pictures and the schematic show no wires are connected to those points on the connector. So you don't even need to repair that burnt trace other than cleaning up the black residue.

Post clear pictures of the newly installed knocker and both flipper mechanisms under the playfield.

You mind sharing what you paid for this machine?

That sleeve needs to be trimmed to the same length as in your original photos in post #44. Then you will hear some knocking!

I could be wrong but those look a lot like slingshot mechanisms.

Exactly

Ok, you didn't get killed, BUT you did not get a fully rebuilt/working machine as the seller made it seem like you were getting. Looks like partial rebuild kits were installed on those flippers. Switches were not touched.

Some horrendous solder work too.

Yeah- solder work is extremely bad. I was looking and the contact point for the EOS. (End of stroke switch) on the flipper looks super corroded. That is where the lions share of your flipper power is coming from in terms of current through the coil. It could be that its so corroded that the flipper is weak. Do you have a file appropriate for that switch? I would polish that up and see if its better.

Near the tip of that flipper EOS switch (very close to the white plastic tip) there is an Allen head screw(s) that can be loosened to allow the flipper to be adjusted. Be sure to check the clearance between the flipper and playfield afterwards, you don't want the tip of the flipper scraping the playfield surface.

As rufessor mentioned, the weak flipper is most likely the EOS switch on the flipper mechanism. It's burnished and seen better days. It's missing the metal screw washer which has caused the top spacer to break. Also looks like it's missing a spacer closer to the metal frame side. Based on the position of the EOS switch I think it's probably poorly adjusted (opening too soon and reducing thrust power) which also isn't helping.

Consider replacing both flipper EOS switches for better performance.

In the mean time, if you don't have a file to test clean the switch, try some rough double sided sand paper (i.e. fold a small piece in half) and slip it between the EOS switch contact points and rub while you try to press the switch closed to get better abrasion.
NOTE: never use abrasive items to clean gold plated playfield switches otherwise you will destroy them. Only use abrasion on these heavy current flipper based switches.

vid1900 has written an excellent thread on servicing flippers and adjusting EOS switch gaps - etc:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

See the pic below for the Allen head screws klr650 mentioned that lock onto the the flipper bat shaft to hold it in position. They might be pretty tight (and need to be so the bat doesn't slip).

Kiss_Flipper1b.jpg
Kiss_Flipper2c.jpg

Exactly right. Above.

It would be worth your time to grab a set of files and a flexstone. Read referenced Vids guide- hell read them all,

The basics are that the circuit that enables the flipper to fire runs through the EOS switch. If you grab the flipper in your hand and with the game off and the play field up, move it up you will pretty rapidly figure out the basics. That switch basically removes power from the flipper coil when it opens- and you want it to open near the end of the flipper stroke. But it needs to have enough gap not to spark and vibrate. If it's corroded it will act like the switch is always partially open... thus a weak flipper (this is almost a classic symptom). It's a great idea to power the game off and carefully watch and play with things on your game- it's amazing what You can learn just moving stuff around and watching how the mechanical parts fit together and work together and move the switches. Try a pop bumper- roll over switch- slings- etc. with power off you can freely move the coil plungers and make everything work. No risk- almost impossible to damage anything. Have fun you have a desirable game!

Thank you Quench & rufessor
As someone learning a lot from this thread thank you both for being part of the best thing about Pinside.

Back again.

First thing, check the voltages on your power rectifier board - there are test points along the top with voltages listed. The power rectifier board is this one below you pictured earlier:

Secondly, the MPU board has a LED on it that should quickly flicker when you first flick the power switch on, then the led should blink 7 times as the MPU board runs through some self tests. When the game fails to boot, what indication do you get from the MPU board LED?

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RectifierBoard.jpg