(Topic ID: 247078)

KISS Pinball 79 Part 2


By Torso718

5 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Quench
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 5 days ago

I turned on my machine the other day and it did not go into attract mode. The solenoids did not test and the playfield lights did not come on. Just the ones around the edges of the machine. The green light on the MPU flashes once then 5 more times. I thought maybe F2 fuse was blown but after changing it I still have the same problem. Please help! I need to sell this beauty before I move to a smaller home.

#2 4 days ago

What! you're selling this baby we spent so much time getting to work?

Check/replace fuse F4 (5 amps fast blow) on the rectifier board.

#3 4 days ago

I know. Every time I play it I think about the work we put into it. None of it would have been possible without you Quench. Your detailed guidance should not go unnoticed here. I still have my 2015 KISS Stern machine and my KISS slot machine. Any idea what a reasonable offer would be? I think I paid $3700 for it (can’t remember) and it didn’t even work.
Nice hearing from you my friend and thank you!

#4 4 days ago

Put a new F4 fuse in and everything came on but my score displays. All 4 displays are out. Other than that the machine is working ok.... for now.

#5 4 days ago
Quoted from Torso718:

Put a new F4 fuse in and everything came on but my score displays. All 4 displays are out. Other than that the machine is working ok.... for now.

OMG, I remember your whole debacle when you bought this. Your HV section on the solenoid driver board is shot, that is what drives the displays.

#6 3 days ago
Quoted from Torso718:

Put a new F4 fuse in and everything came on but my score displays. All 4 displays are out. Other than that the machine is working ok.... for now.

Good start.
There's a fuse on the solenoid driver board (top right board in the backbox) that's hidden in the upper middle of the board. It's a 3/16 amp fuse for the displays - the physical fuse size is uncommon and they're hard to find a source.
With the machine OFF, test that fuse and also fuse F2 on the rectifier board with your multi-meter. If they're both good, post some clear high res pictures of the solenoid driver board particularly the top left area.

#7 3 days ago

Ok, good news! The rectifier board has such short wires which makes it hard to get to my fuses without pulling the board off. Once I pulled the board I looked at F2 and it wasn't seated properly in its cradle. Also, the tabs were stretched so far that they were almost touching F1 & F3 cradles (or whatever you call those things). So, after getting zapped because I didn't UPLUG the machine, I bent the tabs back together on F2 and had to replace the F2 fuse again. I'm guessing maybe that's why it kept blowing.....idk. Anyhow, I put the R-board back on and Bam! Everything came on and seems to be working fine!
This is a beautiful machine and I've wanted it for 3 decades but just can't keep it any longer. Maybe I'll change my mind before the right buyer comes along.
Thank you, your guidance is much appreciated!
PS: vdojaq, yeah I drove 10 hours to get it and the guy flat out lied to me about it. NEVER buy a machine without playing it first!

#8 3 days ago
Quoted from Torso718:

Thank you, your guidance is much appreciated!

Great to hear you sorted it out!

Quoted from Torso718:

This is a beautiful machine and I've wanted it for 3 decades but just can't keep it any longer. Maybe I'll change my mind before the right buyer comes along.

Good luck with the sale, then again if it's something you might regret then maybe not (don't mean that in a bad way).
From memory, even with the technical problems it originally had it was in pretty good cosmetic shape.

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