(Topic ID: 82698)

KISS coin door restore

By DrMark12PA

10 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by DrMark12PA
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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paragon coin door back view.jpg
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ngs-door.jpg
KISS final 009.JPG
#1 10 years ago

I am looking for any hints/advice on dismantling my KISS coind door to restore. I've taken out the plastic coin acceptors and some of the metal around. However, I'm wondering how to dismantle the rest of the mechanisms as well as figuring out how people are obtaining the mirror finish they obtain on some of the restores I've seen from this era. I've used the basic metal polish which certainly gives a sheen but nothing like some of the mirror finishes.

#2 10 years ago

Have it chromed?

#3 10 years ago
Quoted from Jgel:

Have it chromed?

How/where is that done? Is that something that a paint shop would do?

3 weeks later
#4 10 years ago

powder coating works tooKISS final 009.JPGKISS final 009.JPG

#5 10 years ago
Quoted from PinballOrphanage:

powder coating works too

KISS final 009.JPG 557 KB

Nice looking pin.

#6 10 years ago

I have had good luck with using a high grit sandpaper and then following up with a red scotchbrite pad (available at any auto parts store). Be sure to always go in the direction of the grain.

For the textured part near the coin slots, I find removing it and cleaning it with some simple green and a toothbrush works well.

Follow that up with metal polish (I like Mothers) and you'll have a great looking door. New pricing slots and a decal can finish it off nicely.

Won't cost you much more than a little elbow grease.

ngs-door.jpgngs-door.jpg
#8 10 years ago

I ended up completing dismantling the entire coin door. Each piece was either polished by hand (ie the coin slot mechs), tumbled, or powder coated blood red which will match the new color of the painting being done on the cabinet. Legs and siderails also powder coated to match. The door looks brand new and fantastic! I like the look of it colored vs. the original metal which tends to get finger prints (like kitchen appliances that are stainless) and overall doesn't exactly blend into the look of the machine really from a color matching scheme though I know it's the original look. I don't want to have to redo this in 10 years if tarnishing occurs again either.
I'll post some pictures soon.
I'm not having any luck finding new coin plastics as Marco is out and can't find the 1 Play Quarter replacement anywhere else and they don't know if they'll be receiving any more (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-826-57)
2 questions however:
1) the coin eject flap I have doesn't stay in place and just comes loose. Is this a common problem? I just removed it since it's not using coins at home.
2) I tried the coin mechs for the first time since I've owned the machine (2 quarter, 1 Susan B Anthony dollar) and the coin either becomes stuck in the mechanism or goes right through to the coin return hole. Any suggestions?

#9 10 years ago

Those Marco skins are pricey. I have a door that needs to be hammered. It has some damage. Nice kiss the black powder coating looks awesome. Here is a door that just needed polishing and a lot of elbow greaseimage.jpgimage.jpg

#10 10 years ago

20140326_121311.jpg20140326_121311.jpg

Here are some early pictures of my coindoor for KISS restore which I just reassembled.

20140326_121320.jpg20140326_121320.jpg
#11 10 years ago

Hmmm, not a fan of custom doors
But it is your game, I hope you like it

#12 10 years ago

The original silver to me clashes completely with the look of the game which is why you'll probably never see another pinball released without matching rails, legs, coin door, and the game artwork.
Also, the tarnishing over time of the metal coupled with the highlighting of every imperfection that can be seen made me select this route. Once finished, the red of the coindoor, legs, and side rails will match the repaint of the artwork that is currently underway.

1 week later
#13 10 years ago

Does anyone have any advice on keeping the coin door flap in place? I couldn't get mine to stay in place when putting the machine back together so just left it out.

#14 10 years ago

Which piece are you referring to? I had to do a full tear down on mine, so I can look at my pictures to see if you're missing something.

Edit: Oh, if you're referring to the flap on the front where a returned coin falls to, mine doesn't even have a flap.

#15 10 years ago

If the door stainless steel outer skin is bowed/caved in, the flap can never stay in place. The outer skin must be perfectly flat.

#16 10 years ago

For my Paragon coin door restoration, I had to modify the coin door flap to keep it from falling out. It seems the little "ear" pivots on the replacement flap were too small and it would fall between the door skin and the return coin chute. I took some small diameter brass tubing (about .100" dia) and cut 2 pieces the length of each of the flap "ears". I then epoxied the little tubing sleeves over each ear to make the overall pivot diameter larger. Sounds more complicated than it was to do. Here's a picture of the back of the door and I'll see If I can find any better pictures when I get home tonight.

paragon coin door back view.jpgparagon coin door back view.jpg
#17 10 years ago
Quoted from GSones:

For my Paragon coin door restoration, I had to modify the coin door flap to keep it from falling out. It seems the little "ear" pivots on the replacement flap were too small and it would fall between the door skin and the return coin chute. I took some small diameter brass tubing (about .100" dia) and cut 2 pieces the length of each of the flap "ears". I then epoxied the little tubing sleeves over each ear to make the overall pivot diameter larger. Sounds more complicated than it was to do. Here's a picture of the back of the door and I'll see If I can find any better pictures when I get home tonight.

paragon coin door back view.jpg 237 KB

That makes perfect sense as it appears the little "ear" projections on mine are so small and with just tiny gap then slip out.... I might just leave it off as I have the door assembled and it's not overly easy to get at if I remember all the hardware that had to be removed....

#18 10 years ago

It was a pain in the ass to remove the return coin chute and put the flap back in after it fell out when I had the whole door put together. I don't have an original flap to compare with the replacement flap to see if they are the same but I'd be kind of curious is there's a difference.

#19 10 years ago

I hate having leftover parts after reassembly! hahaha so I wanted to figure out a way I could get that think to stay in there.

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