(Topic ID: 280155)

KISS Bally solenoid problem

By joekiss

3 years ago


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  • 20 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by joekiss
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#1 3 years ago

Working on a Bally Kiss. Turn it on and it fired up. Pressed start and mothing happened. Opened the coin door and did a test and all solenoids fired as they should. i then disconnected some of the connectors to check for continuity and when i replaced them the game would start when the start button was pressed but now no solenoids will fire. What am i missing? I have switched both the CPU and Solenoid with my working KISS and both boards work fine. All fuses checked. Do i just have bad connectors?

#2 3 years ago

Do you have 43VDC at the coils?

Likely bad connectors, especially if they are original.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Do you have 43VDC at the coils?
Likely bad connectors, especially if they are original.

They are original. Which connector would i need to check or repin?

#4 3 years ago

Check the fuse under the playfield.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Check the fuse under the playfield.

Ive checked all fuses. my first thought.

#6 3 years ago

Personally, I repin every connector in the head when they are original.

It sounds like you need to replace the smaller (0.100) pins going to the MPU, or at least J4 on the MPU. Check the smaller pins on the SDB, too.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Personally, I repin every connector in the head when they are original.
It sounds like you need to replace the smaller (0.100) pins going to the MPU, or at least J4 on the MPU. Check the smaller pins on the SDB, too.

Those smaller pins are hell to repin

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from joekiss:

Those smaller pins are hell to repin

Assuming you have the proper crimping tool, the smaller pins are no more difficult than the larger ones. Good light is must, and for me, reading glasses too.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Assuming you have the proper crimping tool, the smaller pins are no more difficult than the larger ones. Good light is must, and for me, reading glasses too.

My big thick fingers dont help

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from joekiss:

My big thick fingers dont help

Neither do mine with my long fingernails ....

71FFIvOyUML._AC_UL1050_ (resized).jpg71FFIvOyUML._AC_UL1050_ (resized).jpg
#11 3 years ago

I agree with Jethro, and a good wire stripping tool is a necessity. Ideal industries has some good ones, or a thermal stripping tool for a Pace machine is better, but those tend to make the area pretty smelly.

#12 3 years ago

Sorry to be repetitive, but for the sake of clarity....when you said you checked all the fuses, just to be sure, there is a fuse attached to the bottom side of the playfield near the flippers as I recall. Slow-blo. Did you check it with an ohm meter, or just visually?

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Sorry to be repetitive, but for the sake of clarity....when you said you checked all the fuses, just to be sure, there is a fuse attached to the bottom side of the playfield near the flippers as I recall. Slow-blo. Did you check it with an ohm meter, or just visually?

I always check fuses with a meter

#14 3 years ago

Any more advice what connector to check?

#15 3 years ago

The slo-blo fuse on the underside of the playfield, between the flippers, mine blew tonight and all solenoids other than flippers went out.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Bandit78:

The slo-blo fuse on the underside of the playfield, between the flippers, mine blew tonight and all solenoids other than flippers went out.

First thing I thought of, but he's already checked that fuse....see above Post #4, #5, and #13.

#17 3 years ago

Billc479 asked you in the very beginning if you have 43VDC at the coils. What did you measure?

#18 3 years ago

They are getting power. At first they worked in self test then they quit. Fuse under the PF is good.

#19 3 years ago

OK Verify all your rectifier voltages, and voltages at the test points on the SDB and MPU. They are probably good, but its still a good idea to check.

I still suspect the pins in the connectors, especially if they are original. Not else what it could be, especially since you said the boards worked in a different game. Replace all the signal pins going to the MPU and SDB - these are the smaller pins.

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

OK Verify all your rectifier voltages, and voltages at the test points on the SDB and MPU. They are probably good, but its still a good idea to check.
I still suspect the pins in the connectors, especially if they are original. Not else what it could be, especially since you said the boards worked in a different game. Replace all the signal pins going to the MPU and SDB - these are the smaller pins.

Got ya...

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