I was looking to sell my original Stern topper to someone. Does the new owner need to buy a splitter to power the topper as it appears to be wired into a common connector with other stuff. I'm not sure if Stern sold this connector with the topper? Thanks for your help.

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You'd have to send me to the topper for me to know for sure.

Nevermind, figured it out. Entire connector comes out as plugged into an extension cable.

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I have a mint HUO LE for sale, asking $9k. Has a few mods best being the Gene Simmons Bass Guitar side rails

if i wasn't just getting one i would be in contact , if you list it it will go quick .. with topper even quicker

Bought my HUO Pro and after playing it for a few days realized I had old code on it. Think it was 1.28. I've installed the latest code. Is there a write up of the rulesfor the latest code? I've searched and cann't find anything.

If not, hoping someone can answer a few questions:

- on the old code, upon completion of a song all shots would flash and you would have a chance to hit one of the shots for 2x on that shot. That appears to be gone with the new code. Now when I complete the 1st song, 2x playfield is lit. Complete another song on one ball and it moves to 3x. Just want to make sure the original approach is no longer there.
- is there any other way to move up the multiplier? I read on this topic, one person's score was in the billions and he mentioned getting 10x playfield. How is that accomplished?
- I figured out how to light (at least flashing for now LOL): Star Child, Demon and Catman. How do you light Space Man? I see his insert on center ramp. I've hit that a ton and never got him flashing. Also, how is he completed?
- I figure completing Star Child and Demon is going to be getting a Super Jackbot on their MB modes. For Catman, it is a certain number of pop bumper hits?

Thanks!

http://tiltforums.com/t/kiss-wiki-rulesheet/732

Can anyone confirm that the special light on the right outlane doesn't do anything. It comes on during attract, so I know the light is working. Just checking that it never comes on or does anything during gameplay.

problem solved . link https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/kiss-le-diverter-not-working-#post-5986055

Installed led speaker kits yesterday, looks good!

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Looks sharp. If only there was Color DMD for this game, then it would really be complete.

A color DMD would be awesome!

I heard the crowd scenes are very hard to colorize.

Those looking for an original Stern KISS topper:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/106536

These toppers are doing as well as Tesla shares

Ouch. Say what you want, but I'm only buying stern toppers and not the machines from now on.

Almost makes sense if you want to make a return on your investment.

At that price what would look better? A KISS topper or an original Bally Kiss machine right next to your Stern Kiss machine?

After hearing the call outs on LZ, we are lucky we got real Gene call outs on this game

Hello, i have a Kiss Pro with Mods and with the new code beautiful to play. I love it

Anyone selling a KISS Pro to get LZ? I am still looking for one

Thanks in advance

Ok after googling around, the special being lit is supposed to be a back stage pass award. But after 500 games or so, still haven't seen it. Took glass off and activated backstage pass probably 50 or more times, never got a special as a reward. Can others confirm that the special light never actually lights?

This is on ebay now, I may sell mine

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For that price you could buy the original KISS pin and have it right next to your stern machine.

I love the angle you were able to achieve in order to film the game play. Good job!

Kiss is the best playing machine in my collection,great flow

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I sold me LE a few weeks ago. Hard to say goodbye...but every pin has its price.

Just shipped mine 3000 miles and so happy it arrived in perfect condition (I bought it NIB). Fired her up and was blown away by the flow and how strong the new rules are. Just a great game...one of Borg's best IMHO.

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Congrats on the purchase. I bought my HUO Pro on November 8th. I cann't stop playing it. I shopped it and added red silicon rubbers. Looks and plays great. The newest code is fantastic. The game is brutal. The rules are perfectly balanced the mini wizard modes are always within reach, but it's so punishing. The right ramp is a tight shot.

Great game! I love it and keep pressing play for just one more game.

Not new...bought it when it was released in 2015. Happy I waited for the historic update which really saved it from being a "meh" game to being an awesome game (which rarely happens).

Had a lovely 250 million SJ on Love Gun, and am wondering if it is possible to get higher?

I had Colosal, but unsure if any multipliers can max it out even higher?

I am looking to join the ARMY! I have no regrets and I am ready to pull the trigger with my trigger happy finger.

Anyone selling a HUO Pro please pm me
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Hi guys,

Joined the club today, and sure enough, after 5 games, the Deamon VUK is not kicking the ball anymore...

I guess I have to replace the associated transistor on the node board? I jumped its tab to ground and the coil fired.
Or is there something else?
First issue I have witrh a Spike system

The only time I've had this happen it was just a loose wire on the coil. Soldered it back on, and good to go.

No it's not that :-p
Coil fires when shorted

According to Stern, it's what I thought.
Now I have to identify the mosfet type and order it. Youhou...

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You check the cherry switch and the connections to it?

Yep switch is fine.

Checked all the optos?

They get dirty etc and all sorts of odd things happen with demon stuff.

Rubber pad on spinner curling up:

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Of course, rubber adhesive-backed disk not found anywhere. :/ Not even at Marco.

Found these at my local home improvement store:

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Put my wife's Cricut machine to work and voila:

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A few strips of double-faced tape on one side of the rubber...

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And, good as new

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As you can see, I got 8 disks out of the two sheets of rubber. PM me if you want one (no cost).

Great job! But its a shame you have to invent ways to fix your game because Stern just wants you to buy their latest title.

Had KISS LE over 3 years and still haven't figured out how to remove Gene head!

Anyone know how to do it?

I want to clean the optos under the mouth as occasionally fail to register.

Thanks

the topper now is half the price the whole pro game was New in box then . crazy /

This is a pretty slick fix....Pretty sure Stern has these in stock if you reach out to them. I replaced mine last year before the lock down... they did NOT have white Tron pads in stock...

I had to order through a distributor, but JJ and GameEx ordered it right up... hilariously the Stern guy:
- commented how many they had on the shelf (he counted 10)
- commented that no one EVER ordered these things
- and acted like the fact that the black pads goobered up the balls and playfield was ‘brand new information’
- offered no help or suggestions for said goobering....

The new pad seemed as bad as the original, so I have since followed CapGunTrooper’s suggestion about a polyvinyl sticker, that and replacing the rings with Red Titan rings has cleared up much of the messiness I was seeing.

That's the problem, they don't respond. EVER. Several calls (always goes to VM)/emails/response form on website.....no responses. The attempted contacts were to tech support, sales, and parts.

Color me "not impressed".

I remember years ago when I got into the hobby. I had no clue about the distributor network you need to go through to buy a machine. I used the same web form to make an inquiry....Crickets!

So sorry to hear that and stories like it here. My Stern experience has always been good. Pablo in support has been responsive for any question I’ve had on Beatles, AIQ, and SW, sending replacement parts as needed. I was also fortunate enough to speak to someone live in parts about the disc for KISS.

Regardless, your fix looks great, and I hope you report back about longevity and if made a difference on keeping the playfield, etc.. cleaner.

On a positive note and disc issues aside, this is a super fun game to play and I finally cracked a billion on my machine this weekend!

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you have the Paul speaker cover on backwards and sideways.

That is a detailed observation! And appreciated! I remember only thinking about making sure the Star was upper left.

I will put it on my list for the next maintenance day...

Well, hard to say about keeping the playfield cleaner. But, I can say it does “work” nice - the softer rubber has nice grip and spins/throws the ball out of that area, so it adds that extra bit of unpredictability and fun like the game was designed to do.

Now, on the note about the “clean” playfield.......to anyone interested........

I actually took all of the ramps and most of the plastics off so I could do a deep clean and wax. My machine has thousands of plays on it. When you looked at the playfield, you could clearly see the area where the ball is in play vs. the original shiny clear coat. Also very well defined ball tracks in the lanes. That bothered me a lot, so I started looking into the threads on this forum about playfield restoration. Most notably, Vid’s thread on playfield restoration. I found it funny that just like a lot of other topics, everyone had very strong feelings on products, and there was a lot of “never” do this or “always” use that. I have rarely found absolutes in life, and this project was no different.

I decided to use the Novus products, and I also ordered a set of round sponge and wool buffing/polishing pads off Amazon for my cordless drill. Some on the other forum said “never” use either. The Novus is an abrasive and will eat through the clear coat. The power drill will cause too much action and also eat through your clear coat in short order.

The Cliff’s Notes version is, as long as you treat each like indulgences in life - use in moderation - you can achieve great results without “damaging” the clear coat.

The reason that I ordered the rotary pads was I first tried the sponge pads from pinballlife that I got with the Novus for hand polishing. They probably work great for a maintained machine, but not for a deep clean/restoration project like I was doing. They didn’t make a dent.

I started out using the coarsest sponge pad and Novus 2. I worked a small area for a while and saw some improvement. But I was disappointed in the lack of results. Especially the ball tracks. They weren’t going anywhere. I started eyeing the Novus 3 bottle. The other thread was all like “oh dear God never use Novus 3 on clear coat!!!”

I picked up the bottle and looked at the back. Company HQ in St. Paul, near where I live. I decided to call and see if I could get someone to give me some advice. Not only did I get a person right away, but he was friendly and extremely knowledgeable and helpful. And yes, he was well aware of all of us pinball enthusiasts using the products for playfields.

So I asked him right off the bat - can I use Novus 3 on a playfield or will it chew through the clear coat? Without hesitation the answer was no, but it circled back to my point above about “moderation”. I think if you used a coarse enough sponge or other device and applied too much pressure, it would eat through the clear coat. I asked if these products were just made for plastic stuff like acrylic ramps and he said no that clear coat had acrylic in it. (I was embarrassed at my dumb question).

Anyways, he said using the #3, you were making a series of fine scratches that will get the bigger scratches worn down. Then you move on to the #2 which makes even finer scratches which are extremely fine, then move on to finish with the #1. Contrary to popular understanding, the #1 isn’t just a “cleaner” but actually has additives that fill and polish so that your finished product looks really shiny and nice.

I said, “I want to get it back to that factory, mirror-like finish”. He said, you’ll never be able to achieve that with ANY product. Looking at the playfield (or whatever you are working on, like a car) at an angle and in the right light you will always see the fine swirls from buffing the large scratches out.

I ended up working the vast majority of the playfied with #3 to get rid of ball tracks, ball swirls, and general clear coat clouding from what I believe are thousands of micro scratches in the clear coat in the general play area. I took my time, and just applied light pressure and kept re-checking the progress. I ended up getting “a lot” of the wear and tracks out. Not all of it, but this was a conscious decision by me. I didn’t want to “over-do it” and end up doing what everyone warned me not to do and eat deep into the clear coat or even the underlying paint.

I also did this with my clear ramps. They had that opaque area at the start of the ramp where a wide variety of angles entered, followed by ball tracks for the rest of the ramp/track. The #3 certainly made the opaque areas a lot less noticeable, and the ball tracks faded quite a bit. Just like the playfield, I followed up with the #2 and then polished with #1.

I also did flipper rebuilds, and changed out a ton of solenoid sleeves and parts to make sure everything was playing fast and strong.

Laid down two layers of Blitz. Made a conscious effort to really work the Blitz into the areas prone to ball tracks. Game now playing fast AF.

If anyone has any further questions about the work I did feel free to post either on this thread or PM me.

Hey all! I'm a fairly new pinball owner (and new to this site) and just learning about fixes and working on my pin. Thanks to the expertise here, I have already solved a few issues on my Kiss Pro. My latest issue that just started the other day is that the right sling isn't always reacting when the ball hits it...it works, but it seems it needs a sensitivity adjustment. How do I go about correcting this issue? Thanks!