(Topic ID: 142261)

KISS (1979) new populating new playfield


By DrMark12PA

3 years ago



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  • 83 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by DrMark12PA
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There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago

first, take the screws out, then GENTLY pry the rails off with a stiff scraper or mini pry bar. You will find a wood staple every few inches.

Re-paint them, allow to dry a few days (if you don't they will become glued down, or even lift the clearcoat), then clamp them in place and run the screws back in.

#52 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

first, take the screws out, then GENTLY pry the rails off with a stiff scraper or mini pry bar. You will find a wood staple every few inches.
Re-paint them, allow to dry a few days (if you don't they will become glued down, or even lift the clearcoat), then clamp them in place and run the screws back in.

Usually some of the counter-sunk holes in the playfield perimeter were not used from the factory. They used the staples instead. However, when you do a playfield swap you want to use all the screw holes which means you have to place the wooden side rails in place and drill the holes in the rails that weren't already there from the factory. It's pretty quick and easy to do.

#53 3 years ago

Any ideas on what the original paint was or a really good modern suitable/durable replacement black would be?

#54 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Any ideas on what the original paint was or a really good modern suitable/durable replacement black would be?

In late 70s, most likely a lacquer. I like RustOleum rattle cans and have used it on many, many coin doors and brackets for video games.

Now, was it a satin or a glossy sheen originally?

#55 3 years ago
Quoted from Joey_N:

In late 70s, most likely a lacquer. I like RustOleum rattle cans and have used it on many, many coin doors and brackets for video games.
Now, was it a satin or a glossy sheen originally?

It looks like a satin finish on my machine. I would have to check around if that was originally a gloss sheen or not.

#56 3 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Usually some of the counter-sunk holes in the playfield perimeter were not used from the factory. They used the staples instead. However, when you do a playfield swap you want to use all the screw holes which means you have to place the wooden side rails in place and drill the holes in the rails that weren't already there from the factory. It's pretty quick and easy to do.

Most of the time you can see where there were screws but they were removed. I think they screwed the rails down, stapled them and then removed some of the screws. Must have been a cost saving thing but really doesnt make sense to do all that over a few screws.
When I attach the rails I use all the screw holes but do not staple. On occasion I have even added a couple extras. Satin black should get you close to the original sheen. High gloss would look good too up against a clear coated playfield.

#57 3 years ago

I'd use a semi-gloss black enamel rather than a satin black. They originally did have some amount of gloss but most have usually dulled some over the years. The factory went pretty-thin with the paint but I give them a better shot and paint the rails on all 4 sides.

#58 3 years ago

I agree, there is some gloss to it for sure. I think they would look good either way.

#59 3 years ago

This might a good application for the rattle can gloss black lacquer. Sand the rails lightly and shoot a thin coat or 2.

#60 3 years ago

The process has begun.... just labeling all of the wires to make sure each wire goes to where it should...
In replacing the wire metal braid, I have ordered both 1/4" and 1/8". Looking at the original playfield underside it looks like the wire is maybe as thick as a rubber band for the most part. Could I use just one size for this braid such as the 1/8"?
How are the metal wire guides removed and then subsequently put back on the new playfield? From what I can tell, they are just pounded into the playfield with no underside securing bolt or anything though maybe I'm mistaken.

#61 3 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Usually some of the counter-sunk holes in the playfield perimeter were not used from the factory. They used the staples instead. However, when you do a playfield swap you want to use all the screw holes which means you have to place the wooden side rails in place and drill the holes in the rails that weren't already there from the factory. It's pretty quick and easy to do.

Looks like they use a long staple/brad nail type to secure other than each one had 2 screws, 1 on each far end. I think I'll try to use screws this time around if the holes are already there on the playfield which I have to double check.

#62 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

The process has begun.... just labeling all of the wires to make sure each wire goes to where it should...
In replacing the wire metal braid, I have ordered both 1/4" and 1/8". Looking at the original playfield underside it looks like the wire is maybe as thick as a rubber band for the most part. Could I use just one size for this braid such as the 1/8"?
How are the metal wire guides removed and then subsequently put back on the new playfield? From what I can tell, they are just pounded into the playfield with no underside securing bolt or anything though maybe I'm mistaken.

I use the 1/8" braid for all of the braid on the underside of the playfield. The 1/4" braid is used for the machine ground braid that is found in the lower cabinet and up into the back box. As far as the wire ball guides you remove them by gently prying them out...use something under one end to protect the playfield...just work them out towards each end. They go back into the new playfield by hammering them in. If it's a new playfield or a clear coated restored playfield the holes should be prepared (cleaned/reamed out) to take them...Believe the bit I use is a 5/64", but best to experiment on a scrap piece of wood. Wire guides should be installed down into the playfield until the height is basically even with the center of a ball.

#63 3 years ago

I'm now considering just getting new bulb sockets to save on the cleanup time and risk of tumbling them with resultant damage. Any opinions on this?
Also, what are the correct sockets based on:
http://www.pbresource.com/sockets.html

#64 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I'm now considering just getting new bulb sockets to save on the cleanup time and risk of tumbling them with resultant damage. Any opinions on this?
Also, what are the correct sockets based on:
http://www.pbresource.com/sockets.html

Yes, PBR is the place to go, I have installed over a thousand of the #A2916 socket with zero failures to date.

#65 3 years ago

Generally I agree that PBR is the best source for light sockets.....However, the site below carries the typical feature light socket for $0.35 each... just sayin'

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/ls-9/mini-bayonet-base-lamp-socket/1.html

#66 3 years ago

Which are the appropriate sockets for the flush mounted lights?

#68 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I'd get all new posts from PBR, and I'd replace all the female contacts in the connectors of the backbox.
Get the freeplay ROMs so you don't have to keep dicking with coin switches.
Get new flipper shafts because the old ones will keep falling back to the **memory** of the old playfield.
Wax the whole playfield before you populate.

Is waxing necessary if the playfield was clear coated 4 times according to the person that does these restores?

#69 3 years ago

Are these the correct flush mounts? On PBR it says for backbox

#44/#47/#455
Flush Mount
(Staple)

***For E/M & SS
(Backbox Socket)

#A1363

Bally
E120-176

Williams
A-8262

$0.70ea

#70 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Is waxing necessary if the playfield was clear coated 4 times according to the person that does these restores?

Yes.

The wax protects the clear from wear.

If you don't wax, you will wear "ball trails" in the inlanes, shooter lane and around the pops.

I'd probably put a piece of clear Mylar in the pop area, too.

#71 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Are these the correct flush mounts? On PBR it says for backbox

You see flush mounts on backbox and GI areas, they are stapled down rather than a mounting screw.

They don't have the extra tab for the diode in Williams games either.

#72 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Yes.
The wax protects the clear from wear.
If you don't wax, you will wear "ball trails" in the inlanes, shooter lane and around the pops.
I'd probably put a piece of clear Mylar in the pop area, too.

Any recommendations on where to get mylar pieces that might be precut? How does the mylar attach to the playfield? What areas are typically covered with mylar to prevent frequent areas of wear?

#73 3 years ago

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFT

On KISS, you probably want to protect the area around the pops and the upper arch,

#74 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFT
On KISS, you probably want to protect the area around the pops and the upper arch,

Do you just slap it on the top half of the playfield?

Do these work around the pop bumpers?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFC

#75 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Do you just slap it on the top half of the playfield?

Yep, just wax the playfield, and stick it down.

Sure, but you can just cut a custom Mylar that will do all 4 at the same time, for a lot less money.

It cuts easily with scissors

#76 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

How are the metal wire guides removed and then subsequently put back on the new playfield? From what I can tell, they are just pounded into the playfield with no underside securing bolt or anything though maybe I'm mistaken.

I pounded in the metal wire guides but it looks like some of them punctured through the underside of the playfield. They feel secure so I'm hoping this won't pose a problem long term. Anyone have experience on this issue?
Also, I did staple down the new ground braid. One question I had is if the ground braid contacts any of the metal brackets such as the pop bumpers or sling brackets, will this cause an electrical issue at all?

#77 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I pounded in the metal wire guides but it looks like some of them punctured through the underside of the playfield. They feel secure so I'm hoping this won't pose a problem long term. Anyone have experience on this issue?

Just tap them back if they went all the way through.

You want the center of the wire to touch the center of the ball.

#78 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Also, I did staple down the new ground braid. One question I had is if the ground braid contacts any of the metal brackets such as the pop bumpers or sling brackets, will this cause an electrical issue at all?

People **think** it's the ground braid, but is is actually the POWER braid bringing power to the lamps.

Avoid having the power braid touch any pops or slings

1 week later
#79 3 years ago

The process of repopulating everything appears to be going quite well. The only parts that haven't been cleaned/tumbled/replaced were the switches. I am wondering if it's ok to tumble the switches or if this would cause damage to the contact points. The switches are quite tarnished and could use a tumbling based on the results I've gotten with every other component. The stand up target plastics are also needing some updating I believe even though I've cleaned them with Novus. Could the plastic stand up targets with switches be put in a tumbler (vibration type with crushed walnut shells is what I use) without damage?

#80 3 years ago

I'm in the process of soldering lights back into the harness with new light sockets from Pinball Resource. I did tumble several of the old sockets and will perhaps reuse some of these since they look brand new after tumbling. My next question is with the mounting bracket of the lights, can these just be screwed down to the playfield where the braid passes or should it be soldered as well to make an even more solid connection? The solder just seems to fall off the braid somewhat so I thought it would be easier to just screw the bracket down over the top of the braid that runs past each socket to make the connection.

#81 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

My next question is with the mounting bracket of the lights, can these just be screwed down to the playfield where the braid passes or should it be soldered as well to make an even more solid connection?

Solder and screw.

#82 3 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

The solder just seems to fall off the braid somewhat so I thought it would be easier to just screw the bracket down over the top of the braid that runs past each socket to make the connection.

Make sure your braid is actually made of solderable metal, and not steel of some sort.

Put some Paste Flux on the solder joint, and use a big soldering gun, not a little pencil.

#83 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Make sure your braid is actually made of solderable metal, and not steel of some sort.
Put some Paste Flux on the solder joint, and use a big soldering gun, not a little pencil.

It looks like the solder "sticks" better to the socket terminal and in turn to the braid all in one gob so to speak. I'm using my solder gun not pencil for the sake of volume of solder I can do at once and it's been easier to have the gun turned upside down when not in use (it rests in that position) rather than the whole solder mount for the pen quite honestly. Sometimes the wires have a mind of their own and holding in place while holding solder and a gun is a 3 handed job.

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