Are you testing with a voltmeter and getting 120VAC at the wall receptacle?
Are you testing with a voltmeter and getting 120VAC where the power plug terminals terminate INSIDE the cabinet? (Before the fuses)

It is highly unlikely that the transformer failed, especially if you didn't visibly see it pouring out smoke (which I would assume you would mention, hah!) and whatnot.

Remember, Kings & Queens is old enough that it won't light up if it's not started - so make sure you have credits.

Actuating the 115V relay by hand will let you know if the game is getting power. This will put the game into "TILT". Then, there is a 30 volt relay (similar to later games, which no longer had the 115V relay) to get the game fully bright and out of "TILT", which serves as the tilt relay.

[!!!!!] Watch your hand around the 115V relay. It is not called this by coincidence. Make sure you only touch the plastic piece to actuate the relay. I have never been shocked by it because I am careful but the voltage is definitely still there and will get you if you're not careful.

My Mayfair does this (won't start, completely dark) if either bonus unit gets stuck and you have to power cycle the game, which apparently is in the path to starting the game so of course it will stay dark as that is the default state to these Gottlieb games before the 115V relay was removed in the late 60's. If that happens, I have to go in and press the 115V relay and 30V relays by hand to get the game to light up and start. So, after that, make sure your units are in order even though this game lacks a bonus unit of course.

I almost guarantee you this will be a start to fixing your problem. Then if your game is lit but still won't start (also make sure your free play mod and/or credit unit is working correctly), actuate the start relay by hand.

There are so many reasons that I could not possibly start to list them all. You should have a working meter if you are going to own a pinball machine, ask for help on here, and attempt to diagnose it yourself.

1974DQ - have you tried manually moving the score motor back to start position? That may do it - has for me on a couple of occasions.

Yeah, you ridicule the only advice in the thread worth following, and then you go ahead and follow it anyway...

You may have mental problems. I don't know why I even try.

Wait, never mind. You don't need a meter at all. Just start using your tongue or a wet finger, poking around to determine where you are losing AC voltage!

This may not be your situation but it happens to a lot of people when they buy one. If there is not a ball on the switch under the apron, you get nothing.

Hi 1974DeltaQueen +
may I join the inspired, animated, excited discussion ? From post-1 I take "115-Volt-Relay" - are You alking about the "R-115-Volt-HOLD-Relay" ?
DeltaQueen - You have the schematics - is in the list "Control-Bank" an T-Tilt-Relay ?
Want to try: UNPLUG the 110VAC main power cord (Safety Reasons) --- then here: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1381&picno=54264 behind the Score-Motor - the Control-Bank: Move the big arm as if the Coil(s) were pulling - do reset the Control-Bank. Then plug-in and press the Replay-Button - does the pin shows some reaction ?
(((I do have the schematics "Buckaroo" and I see DANGER: The S-Start-Relay and the W-Extra-Chute-Relay and the Reset-Coils on Control-Bank and on Sequence-Bank are operated by 110 VAC - DANGER))) - greetings Rolf
(((P.S.: Do You want to show the snippet of schematics "110 VAC side" of YOUR pin ?)))

So, without a meter and you being sure the cord is good and the outlet has power, why not replace the transformer to see if that solves your problem?

there is a contact on the credit wheel that needs to be closed to start a game with credits... dirty contact, look for the pvc wires on the zero position credit switch and clean gap. also check the slam switches on door and bottom board..

Agreed with pinhead52. DQ - you have the schematic right? If not, I can post the relevant section.

There are 3 switches that have to be closed: Anti-Cheat, Shut Off and Bounce - plus of course the 7.5A (pre-transfomer) and the 10A (post transformer, pre 115V relay) fuses must be good (but you checked those).

For Credit button to activate the Start Relay (which inturn gives power to transfomer) then yes, zero position switch on credit wheel must be closed (i.e. credits on wheel), plus Score Motor 1C closed, plus a normally closed switch on Extra Chute relay must be closed, and "on-ball release" normally closed switch also closed.

My Sing Along often plays dead when I first power it on. There is a relay, first middle relay to the right in the cabinet that I manually turn on and the machine powers up.

Are you really unable to see the difference between judgmental lecturing and offering advice?

He did not ridicule your advice. He responded to your judgmental attitude.

115 hold volt relay

image (resized).jpg

Hope you fix your machine, it's probably simple.

Ach! Be of good cheer. Manually actuate the hold relay. Or, the second coin switch (25c) will turn the game on and add credits, but won't start the game. Transformers rarely fail.
If you get nothing at all when you push in the hold relay, you likely have no AC to the transformer.

Trust me. Try my suggestion.

Yeah, now you're just imagining things. Name calling? Not me. My comprehension is clear. Not so sure about yours. Where did I call anyone a name in this forum ever?

While ANYTHING in the world could be wrong with the game, why not confirm that power is coming in to the game and though the fuses with a meter? If you were beyond that point, you can simply say so.

I could care less what you do at this point. I could also care less about what you do to solve your problem. Others that own similar games certainly have better suggestions than I do. You should just listen to them and ignore me. But don't make stuff up about me. I was trying to help solve the problem.

No one here knows your expertise or experience, myself included. If my suggestions touched a nerve, I do apologize. Pinside is riddled with newbies who don't own a meter or know how to use one. Sorry, but that's the typical person asking for help on this forum.

i doubt the cord or the transformer is bad. this is what i would check
1-reflow the solder on the cord lead. i had a spin a card that would not start and after some time thinking the xformer was bad it turned out to be a cold solder joint on the cord wire.
2- line fuse holder weak. pinch the tabs a little and put in a new fuse.
3- check the kick switch to make sure it isn't stuck closed
4- check the bounce switch and the other n.o. tilt switches
if still no power at this point bend the hold relay switch so it is closed
still nothing time to break out the DMM

Agree - lots of times my games go dead and manually pressing the hold relay is like magic

And getting score motor in the right position.

I had a dead Gigi once and that turned out to be a Tilt switch on the door from memory.

Hi 1974DeltaQueen +
we european pinsiders have the "problem": The Outlets on the walls in our houses have 220 VAC. The schematics usually show USA-110VAC-wiring. so we have another transformer - and some non-documented wiring / transforming partway to 110VAC.

How about using a simple "Bedroom-Light" as a Test-Light ? Maybe (maybe) a wire has broken-off inside the 110VAC main power Cord-PLUG ?

I actually wonder: IF (and when "Yes" how bright) a bedroom-Light-Test-Light shines-up when used on the 24VAC-Side (in a pin) ... greetings Rolf

P.S.: In here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reading-gottlieb-schematics in post-12 "SteveFury" shows his 24VAC-TEST-LIGHT

aBuckaroo-Work5 (resized).jpg

bingo! glad you got it i knew it had to be in that string.

Just my two bits... I posted a similar inquiry a while back. I have a meter. I had continuity from plug through fuses and switch right to transformer. No power.
Turned out that the plug wire was making and breaking depending on if the wire was straight or not. Ridiculous I know but had me baffled. These plugs are generally ancient. Do yourself a favour and replace it.

It could be the fuse holder gone bad.

Hi 1974DeltaQueen
I have a theory to Your (post-29) "game goes dead during play" - want to prove my theory "right" or prove it "wrong" ?

Theory: On the R-Relay is a switch - wire-black is soldered-on, wire-red is soldered-on. The switch does not "close good" - maybe a wire has broken-off and stays in place (sometimes) - or maybe the contact-points on the switch are oxidated making "lousy" contact. Sometimes the connection through this switch gets lost: Your mysterious fault.

Look at the JPG, post-28, lower-left corner - my "red dots at Switch-on-R-Relay" - want to put an PERMANENT JUMPER so there is ALWAYS connection. Have this Jumper in the pin for a week and play many games - Your mysterious fault shows-up: You have proven my theory WRONG - OR: Your mysterious fault never shows-up: You have proven my theory RIGHT.

Well, with this Jumper in the pin: You cannot toggle-off the pin anymore --- You always must unplug the 110VAC power cord, greetings Rolf

I had a similar experience with a friend's game. Every thing was dead. It turned out the reset bank under the playfield was not properly seated and was causing intermittent contact with the switch under the bank.