(Topic ID: 327939)

Kings Of Steel technical question

By Flowst

1 year ago


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  • 50 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 85 days ago by Rikoshay
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#16 1 year ago

congrats on progress sorting out issues.

sorry I can't answer all the questions you have.....possibly tackle one at a time, completely understand the highs and lows with owning a pinball machine.

not a criticism, but the EOS switch is not a proper one with tungsten tipped contacts to allow for the extra current.
it's a shame sellers don't sell the correct product, maybe notify them that it isn't correct and has standard low voltage switch contacts? Assuming they are obviously unaware of the switch stack being wrong for a correct EOS switch stack?

assuming you have that black rubber piece added to help open the EOS switch? This is not needed but a tweak of the contacts to open them to about 3.2mm/ 1 /8 on opening on full travel/pull in of the plunger.

again not a criticism, just an observation, but the unshielded section of the red wire isn't idea, and there appears to be a strand of the wire very close to the other EOS solder tab which if it connects will cause problems.

#20 1 year ago

just for reference here is a link, notice the heavy duty tungsten tipped contacts: https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-closed.html

#21 1 year ago

the yellow twist top appears to have 2 brown wires inside, these are the power wires that I assume were joined to the blue wire. The brown wires do join to the far left solder lug.

the short yellow wire attached to the far right lug is the ground wire that should be yellow with a black tracer. This will join to a switch stack on the lower left flipper assembly where it will pair with a green wire.

#23 1 year ago

yes you're spot on.

ideally, if your soldering skills are up to it, try and tidy the mess that's there? Re-do the EOS (end of stroke) wire mess. As long as one wire goes the middle solder tab of the coil, and the other wire to the left hand solder tab, it doesn't matter which lug you solder them to on the EOS switch. Pre solder (tin) the wires prior to soldering them to the lugs and you should be fine.

the 2 brown wires may have been joined via the twisty as they aren't long enough to reach the solder lug?

check if they do reach as that would be better, if not maybe solder the 2 brown wires to a spare wire you have at home and cover with heatshrink? Either way twist the bare wire strands of the 2 brown wires into one is my suggestion as it will make for easy soldering to the solder tab, if they reach?

personally i'd remove the piece currently attached to the solder lug and if long enough solder the original 'floating' yellow/black directly to the RH solder lug.

#25 1 year ago

sounds like it's shorting to ground, current not going the coil.

remove either the left hand tab or right hand tab wire, put a piece of paper between the EOS contact and measure the coils resistance and post your results.

the coil wrapper shows the readings you should get for both windings.

#26 1 year ago

it looks close, but make sure the 2 EOS switch stack screws aren't piercing the coil wrapper

1 week later
#40 1 year ago

sorry to say this and no offence, just an observation, but the soldering and wiring is a mess.

is the EOS switch actually closed in post #30 ?

is it possible you can start a fresh? new wires from EOS s to coils? how are your soldering skills? Do you have 1.5mm max solder wire? Thicker solder is harder to get to flow and heat up and has more flux in it and suitable really IMO.

the EOS switch creates a short across the hold winding (fine wire 330 ohms), so when the coil is grounded by the flipper switch the flipper energises through the flip/hit winding (thick wire 4 ohms) and the flipper crank opens the EOS switch so the coil is now energised by the fine winding and not heating up the coil. Thereabouts :/

try removing the wires from the coil therefore removing the EOS switch from the circuit and try the readings again?

as suggested that lower coil where the screws have pierced the coil wrapper needs to be fixed. It may appear to be working but is risky leaving as is.

the capacitor can be added to both flipper contacts and the EOS switch to keep the arcing to a minimum which in turn reduces noise and pitting of the tungsten tipped contacts.

a meter across tabs 1 and 3 should give a reading of the total resistance of both windings, so 334 ohms approximately (330 + 4)
a meter across tabs 1 and 2 with no EOS/or contacts separated should give a reading of the hold winding, that being 330 ohms approximately
a meter across tabs 2 and 3 should give a reading of the hit/flip winding of 4 ohms approximately

3 weeks later
#42 1 year ago

check the fine wire winding at the coil that the wire is 100% making contact with the solder lugs.

also check cabinet flipper switches are nice and clean, may need replacing?

ensure the EOS (tungsten tipped) contacts are making proper contact and opening with a gap of at least 3mm, 1/8th.

10 months later
#50 85 days ago

not sure on the replacement driver board you have, but it sounds like an internally shorted/faulty transistor/mosfet?

the schematics say Q3 is for the knocker.

do you have continuity to ground from the metal tab?

in the meantime you could remove pin/wire 5 (black/white) from J2 to disable the coil or remove either wire from either solder tab on the coil.

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