(Topic ID: 246362)

Kings of Steel - 3rd Flipper Question

By Misterek

4 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by jj44114
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

Hi all. Rookie question.

Machine in great shape overall. The third flipper got weak, then finally stopped working (it would just "wiggle" when the left flipper was activated.)

Last evening, the kids were playing and let the smoke out of something inside (pretty smelly.) They said the 3rd flipper started making a fast tapping sound just before they smelled the smoke.

Nothing unusually dark or "burned" smelling inside - on that flipper or anyplace else. Suspect the solenoid on this flipper is bad? The rest of the mechanism seems OK.

Any advice? Anyone have a good way to figure out the proper PN for this solenoid (no numbers on it, i don't have the schematic for this machine.)

THANKS!

Chris

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#2 4 years ago

Fast tapping usually means the hold circuit of the coil is bad. It could cause enough arcing to get the EOS smoking...

If you disconnect the coil you can try to get resistance readings of the two windings and see if they're out of spec.

Manual is available on IPDB. According to page 2 all three flippers use the same coil? AQ-25-500/34-4500

#3 4 years ago

Also look down at the lower left flipper, there is an extra EOS switch looking thing that drives the upper flipper

#4 4 years ago

Thanks guys.

Maybe this means nothing... but when i manually move the left and right flippers, there's resistance. When i manually move the third flipper, there's no resistance at all.

if i change the third coil, should i also change that EOS? What about the EOS on the left flipper... adjust or change this one first?

THANKS!

Chris

#5 4 years ago

If the EOS was not opening the coil would overheat and burn.

#6 4 years ago

Was the flipper tapping like that only when the kids held that flipper on? I dunno why you wouldn’t feel resistance when turning that flipper, everything seems to be in place. Unless the flipper shaft was totally loose but that would be obvious. I’d start with a file and adjust of the EOS switch and the above mentioned switch on the left flipper unit and make sure that coil is bad before replacing it. Same with those two switches which are meant to be periodically filed/redressed... unless they are shot of course.

1 week later
#7 4 years ago

Thanks all. A bit more sleuthing...

- Opened up the machine and found the secondary EOS switch on the left flipper was very dark, quite mangled, and was "stuck" to the other leaf. Assume this was the switch that arced/smoked. (pic attached)
- cleaned the contacts a bit (just a piece of paper for now... i have no file on hand)
- tightened the two set-screws on the third flipper
- powered, on, and everything seemed to work as normal. Assume this means the coil on the thrid flipper is ok?
- after a bit of play, the set screws on the third flipper loosened
- occasionally when activating the left flipper / holding it down, the third flipper would fire multiple times

So my question for you smart folks: do i replace the secondary EOS (i think this is the term) on the left flipper? do i need a full rebuild kit for the third flipper, or should i just replace the lever (assuming new set-screws will tighten and hold better than my existing ones.

THANK YOU!!

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#8 4 years ago

You really gatta ape-down on those set screws almost to the point you think your gonna bend the allen wrench

Apparently it seems to be called "the secondary EOS switch" , might not be a bad idea to replace them both https://www.pinballlife.com/end-of-stroke-switches.html

I recently had a shot-gunning flipper on another machine of mine AFTER replacing an EOS switch , the flipper button switches were dirty and pitted as well

#9 4 years ago

Thank you! parts ordered!

#10 4 years ago

Good news: replaced the left flipper Secondary EOS switch and the EOS switch on the third flipper, and tightened the allen screws as tightly as possible. Left flipper and third flipper all work perfectly.

Bad news: the EOS on the right flipper had dark, worn, pitted contacts, so i used a flex board to touch it up. When i powered up the game, the right flipper does not work at all - no spark, no buzz, nothing. The switch on the flipper button has worn contacts, but no worse than the other flipper button.

So: is there anything i could have messed up on the left/3rd flipper that would effect the right flipper? or, did filing the EOS switch contacts damage them?

THANKS!

Chris

#11 4 years ago

Here they recommend to use a metal file on tungsten metal contacts: http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/pinball-switches-fixing-adjusting/

I guess a flexstone file is used on non-high current switches: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-PLAST

#12 4 years ago

Well... rookie oversight then.

so if i touched an EOS or flipper switch with a flex stone... its time to replace them, correct?

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from Misterek:

Well... rookie oversight then.
so if i touched an EOS or flipper switch with a flex stone... its time to replace them, correct?

No.... but they probably wore out the flexstone more than the contact. The metal file would be much tougher on the contact (which is why it's better to clean the tungsten contacts with it).

You'll know it's clean it will look like shiny metal. Don't make them too flat though, sometimes the normal arc on a high voltage flipper point will weld them together.

#14 4 years ago

So i have a right-side flipper that isn't working at all. I used a flexstone on both the EOS and the flipper button switch (white/chalky, look pitted - EOS pic below.) Per videos and articles the switches both appear to be adjusted properly but the contacts are pitted/worn.

Should i change the EOS and flipper switch? Would these worn contacts cause the non-function condition (no buss, spark, anything.)

I also replaced the left side EOS and third flipper EOS successfully - all is working well. Could i have damaged something that would cause my problem on the right side?

Appreciate any diagnostic advice anyone has. I can swap parts carefully but i'm no schematic reader.

THANKS!

Chris

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#15 4 years ago

I would think 91% rubbing alcohol & q-tips wold get rid of the chaulkyness. you could check the contacts with an ohm meter for continuity before & after the clean-up for good measure.

I gatta take the stuff off my Kings of Steel & play it some !!!

#16 4 years ago

New EOS switch...5 bucks. yes

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