(Topic ID: 230672)

Kings & Queens Restore


By tengle93

7 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by tengle93
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 7 days ago

Finally getting to this project Kings and Queens. It ended up in a Subway/Crosstown cabinet at some point in it's life. The previous owner had died and his wife mentioned he always wanted to restore it. He must have started to strip the cabinet as evidenced in the photos and then I guess life got in the way, it was under a sheet deep in the basement with a lot of dust. The best story is that I went to the house to buy a 9' shuffleboard table (after my wife said ENOUGH pinball machines I want a shuffleboard!!) and she asked if I was interested in a Mr Do machine. I mentioned pinball and she said there was one down there but wasn't sure of the name. When I lifted the sheet my heart skipped a beat. $250 bucks later it was in my truck.

It's my first cabinet repaint with webbing. Think it came out pretty good.

Have to thank the numerous posts on repaints, webbing and stencils that helped in making numerous decisions. Ended up using heirloom white Rustoleum, Montana webbing and Montana 94 paints for the colors. Also used the Pinball Pimp stencils and was generally happy with the process. They were a bit more sticky than I thought they would be and it peeled some webbing off, but it was probably a good thing. Stencils were easy to use.

My biggest question is what did the original checkerboard stencil look like at the factory? Having to connect all those squares together and allow for the spray must have been interesting.

Well, on to the rest of the machine....

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#2 7 days ago

Nice work!

#3 7 days ago

You did that with webbing in a can?

Looking good!

#4 7 days ago

I wanna see the PF & BG prior to restore

#5 6 days ago
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

You did that with webbing in a can?
Looking good!

Yes, used the Montana webbing. I thought it came out close to perfect, really nice results. Was trying to decide what to do and then a read another Pinsider's post about it and he sold me on it. Easier than buying a whole HPLV setup.

Quoted from pinwiztom:

I wanna see the PF & BG prior to restore

The playfield was really bad. Not sure what the other guy was trying to do but it was beyond what I wanted to repair. Was able to find a Wade Krause playfield, just need to do the swap. Backglass is about a 7.5, flaking in the reds mostly.

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#6 6 days ago

Nice work. I just did 3 WK pf swaps and two cabinet repaints, and about to do a third. Shay will sell you a new glass for $365. And then you'll have a $4000 machine. Did you make your own stencils or use Pimps?

Replace all the light sockets with new since you are doing the swap.

Too bad the prev owner messed up the pf, the hole wear doesnt look bad.

#7 6 days ago

And if anybody has an unused WK pf Im looking for 1.

#8 6 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Nice work. I just did 3 WK pf swaps and two cabinet repaints, and about to do a third. Shay will sell you a new glass for $365. And then you'll have a $4000 machine. Did you make your own stencils or use Pimps?
Replace all the light sockets with new since you are doing the swap.
Too bad the prev owner messed up the pf, the hole wear doesnt look bad.

Yea, used the PP stencils. I was watching your work and thanks for the insights in your posts, they really helped me. Light sockets are a good idea.

#9 6 days ago
Quoted from tengle93:

Yea, used the PP stencils. I was watching your work and thanks for the insights in your posts, they really helped me. Light sockets are a good idea.

And I like the braid from this site
http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

The 18 gauge, you'll need about 10 feet.

My order of reattach on a pf swap

1. siderails after sand and wipe on poly, use #6 1in countersunk phillips, stainless steel, 3 each rail.
2. braid
3. rollovers cleaned up with 400grit or buy new
4. light sockets, the only ones not available is the string for the top rollovers, reuse old.
5. harness
6. pops
7. etc

And if you want to borrow my hoop tool let me know. Allows re-install without mangling.

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#10 6 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

And I like the braid from this site
http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
The 18 gauge, you'll need about 10 feet.
My order of reattach on a pf swap
1. siderails after sand and wipe on poly, use #6 1in countersunk phillips, stainless steel, 3 each rail.
2. braid
3. rollovers cleaned up with 400grit or buy new
4. light sockets, the only ones not available is the string for the top rollovers, reuse old.
5. harness
6. pops
7. etc
And if you want to borrow my hoop tool let me know. Allows re-install without mangling.
[quoted image]

That's great, thanks. I have access to a CNC mill, should be able to make that up, great idea.

The only real problem I have right now (and it's not really a huge one) is a function in the head. Didn't even realize that it was a problem until I went to reassemble it and something didn't make sense. I'd like to see if someone can figure it out what it is. Clue is: It was a Crosstown cabinet in it's former life.

#11 6 days ago
Quoted from tengle93:

That's great, thanks. I have access to a CNC mill, should be able to make that up, great idea.
The only real problem I have right now (and it's not really a huge one) is a function in the head. Didn't even realize that it was a problem until I went to reassemble it and something didn't make sense. I'd like to see if someone can figure it out what it is. Clue is: It was a Crosstown cabinet in it's former life.

Closing arm on the wrong side, redrill the hole, been there, done that.

#12 6 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Closing arm on the wrong side, redrill the hole, been there, done that.

Got it! It drove me nuts for about 10 minutes until I thought it through.

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