I am really enjoying this and I hope to do this kind of thing someday. how did the playfield painting go?
I am really enjoying this and I hope to do this kind of thing someday. how did the playfield painting go?
The Filler I use is a 3M product, its not Bondo- not really close. Its a modern chemical polymer that sets really fast if its thin, sands super well and is pretty damn hard. Its actually expensive as hell- like 20 bucks for a 12 or maybe 16 oz tube. I get it at a specialty auto paint supply and have found its widely available at them, pretty much any decent shop seems to carry this. Its called
Acryl-Green Spot Putty.
Its a acrylic polymer- with a ton a titanium dioxide. Its designed to work with clear and I have used it on play fields and on a lot of other stuff- its good. Its not going to set up like a fiberglass patch or some pourable epoxy, but its plenty hard- in fact the third ingredient is "Trade Secret Acrylic Polymer" so its basically clear coat chemistry with some filler to build thickness.
I like it, but its a bitch to clean up and you have to be careful- you don't want it where you don't want it because once it touches its damn hard to get it up. It just sits down in any tiny groove and set in so fast that its basically not possible to clean it up. I view this as a very good sign, but just saying- don't spread it out where you don't want to paint- its bright green (probably to ease sanding and seeing through I suppose).
The painting of the play field is on hold until I can get the garage to warm up- and the way I do that is to wait for the weather to change... so thats another month at least before I will get consistent enough weather overnight to ensure a good cure. Were still snowing...
However, I do have a coat of Oracal on one side of the cabinet and am hand cutting around the color so I can re spray white and splatter- then will reverse it and mask white and spray color... thats ongoing but work is a bit crushing lately and will be for a while so basically have only had the occasional 30 minutes to look at it, probably be like that for a while... its a great mental break but not always in the cards unfortunately.
Dolphin Glaze report
Smells like Bondo, but is not nearly as thick, it's much more fluid, hardens quickly without and of those tiny holes that you can get with Bondo. It's very easy to sand and sands smooooth! It also appears to bond very well with the play field wood. So far, so good.
Quoted from DropTarget:
Dolphin Glaze report
Smells like Bondo, So far so good.
Good to hear but the real question is- does it taste like Bondo?
I think the cabinet is going to be just fine. Got 1/3 of the right side masked and had to try blending some new paint over the white. Its going to look awesome. It fills the missing paint fine and blends prettt seamlessly with the aged paint all ready there. Going to get it all fully cut and blend then splatter. Then color repairs and clear!
Since I was going to the trouble of trying to keep the cabinet semi original- I decided to do a few subtle improvements. I sanded top and all holes into cabinet. So when you put leg bolts on and off or lift glass the ply is really smooth. Going to let natural overspray cover those areas as was originally done so should look cool.
Almost done cutting all color. Going to sand a small repair I made- and spray it blending thicker on bare wood to just a slight transparent coat over otherwise good paint. Then will pull it all- splatter with my air brush and some black lawyer and probably clear it to lock down. Then sand and do color and top coat for a finish.
I have to keep reminding myself I want some cracks and dirt and uneven color. I think I hit a good compromise of coverage to blend. The front of the cabinet is all pretty much full coverage- even on the sides. But it blends pretty good. So far so good. Cure and scuff sand and clear. May be a while for clear. Still no gun and still cold outside (too cold for clear but getting ever so slightly closer).
Nice! Mixing that colour went really well... I dig your thinking behind the process.
I assume that will not be glossy clearcoat finish?
Yeah- not glossy. Maybe not clear coat on top. You can get a satin preservation varnish in a spray can that is amazing. So may do that. But a flat clear could be fun too.
Anyone know what the trick is to set up an air brush to recreate the splatter on these wedge heads!? Its not the same splatter used later where you can get a big toilet bowl or similar brush wet and just spray it by running your hands over the bristles and flicking paint. This is me re of a web finish. I think i am supposed to use some type of enamel but cannot even figure out where to start. Gotta do some research I guess
Basically yes! I was searching other forums and forgot that topic- I read it a while ago! I posted there for help. Thank you
I am so glad I tried this. I cut around the overspray on the factory stencil and then blended the spray and with light sanding got this. May sand a few more spots to enhance blend but if I can spray the dominant colors to fill holes and feather to the edge this should look really original!!
It occurs to me that the old factory webbing is slightly visible and this will not change. I decided I don’t care. I think it will actually look really good if I get the top webbing done right. Never done it this way before so (I mean the whole process). I am not really worried about the webbing. I won’t spray till I have it right so that will be fine.. but how the whole thing looks when it’s done.... I will have to see.
that is really cool and I like the concept of keeping it pretty original. Much more of a "restoration" than a "replace everything with new parts" process
Been keeping myself busy finishing a large landscaping project and then a deck so finally had a weekend not otherwise committed to hard labor and managed to take a big step on King Pin.
I had been looking for a new spray gun, either Compliant or HVLP and even had a thread here that yielded some really good info. I ended up listening to the general guidance in brand and type but sized down one from what the pros use. I got a Devilbiss spot repair and panel gun, the SRi-Pro. I took today and prepped the playfield and cabinet and used the cabinet to test my gun setup. Turns out I had it good from the go and sprayed both using about 9oz of clear. I was impressed it went that far and that I had some left. I got the DeKupps system and that absolutely rocks for prep and clean up.
The new (restored) compressor and air filter/dryer system worked amazing with this gun. I had 29 PSI at the gun from start to finish spraying continuously the entire cabinet and playfield. When I was done I looked and the 30 gal tank was at 60 PSI or higher- perfect, plenty of air left had I needed it.
Will post pics in a bit. The finish out of the gun is amazing. I actually think most guns do a pretty good job, but compared to my old setup this was amazingly smooth and confident to work with. It does handle better when the gun is weighted right and the overspray is way less, I was spraying with the head super close (6 inches maybe) and able to move quickly and overlap easily.
I am super happy the shop is finally up and running fully in terms of air and spraying. Major upgrade from my portable compressor and older gun. Yeah!!!
Prepped and ready for clear. All playfield through holes were dremmeled or hand sanded as was edge. Will clear edge and top. Did some work on shooter lane and think it may stay like this. I dont want to take it down as far as needed to get clean divot free wood, but those divots will easily fill with clear and its not bad. Colors match and not obvious it was sanded so good nuff.
And first coat on playfield has set to touch. I am super pleased that it took the clear so well. Often a first coat on an old game looks pretty scary due to condition of surface as it emphasises all defects. I had been in deep on mechanicals and ignore art- this is encouraging me to get going again!
Gotta say- the new shop set up for spraying is super fun to use- an absolute pleasure to spray.
Playfield was wet sanded with 400 grit and all major white areas covered in firsket with about a 1 inch border or more. 1/2 done cutting out white now... probably will spray white tonight.
Hard to see- but clear sanded pretty good for a first coat on a almost 50 year old game. Plenty of low spots are shiny but really good so far. I went nice and slow, obviously some post screw holes were sanded to wood but almost no where else did I hit a high spot (or make a low spot ).
Looking forward to seeing this done relatively soon! (A year or so for those who have been following carefully)
All major White is done. A few picky touch ups remain around small areas I am not spraying. Else all white color blocks now sprayed. I always match to the white thats not getting touched up (is that stupid obvious???). As I started spraying I was worried that I had matched too dark but I think it was the right color. I spray super lightly with the idea that you retain subtle cracking etc, basically in areas that were not damaged, you can still see old weathering and subtle cracking through the top coat of white to balance out all the shades of yellowing. In areas where it was down to wood it’s a much thicker coat (only right on the damage) that blends into the rest.
Thinking that I am not going to bother spraying anywhere but damaged parts for the remaining. Will redo black key lines next and then simply blend any repairs carefully in blue or orange or greenish blocks. The slightly cracked paint looks great under the clear and its staying!
That and the cigarette butt burn on the head will really tie together
I almost forgot how tedious key lines are to retouch by hand! Coming along I suppose.. going to keep at it a bit more this evening but progress so far is below pic.
Before pic, detail on special and 5,000 when lit inserts. Looked pretty bad ... the nights overall progress is also shown. Got 13 inserts done and touched up a lot of top 1/3 PF lettering and lines. The rest will go fiarly quickly as most of the inserts on this game are up top. Still probably two nights for black but then solid colors will go fast.
I ran into a weird sizing issue using traved scans in inkscape for making stencils. I need to figure out where I F’d up to rescale my stencils to final repair the top left 500 or 5000 points when lit.
The blue is now final as is the black in this area. I retouched a few black areas and use a razor to scrape away any bleeds to get it as close to perfect as I can. For the blue I paint the entire are quickly with a reduced paint so it is mostly transparent. Then as soon as its almost dry I wipe it off- let it dry then wipe again with a slightly damp towel. This way any cracks remain filled yet most of the paint is wiped off and it remains original.
I wonder if the pic looks any differnet for an hours work on the blue!?? Maybe not
I am sure it is better but think it was hard to capture progress in a photo.... I keep telling myself!
I tried this on the green and its not going to work. So unless white or wood is showing, green will remain 100% original. There will be some swirling and light darker cracking but thats ok with me.
White, Black and Blue have been retouched on left side top to bottom but for below outlanes. So far so good. Nervous about orange and pink. I think I may not have a perfect match so may have to retint for this to work. And I hate that. Worst part of the deal by far. Oh well...
Has any one else tried using those 100 dollar color matchers to get a panatone color. Thinking about getting one, but I dont know enough about how color is represented mathetatically to know if I could use it to measure the original color- then my close match, and do some math and have something say “add red dip shit”.
I would buy that. Just sayin.
Many photos are with naptha so I can see true color blend. You cannot tell if its perfect with acrylic over sanded clear if you just look. It all has a different texture abd minor paint thickness differences are obvious etc etc. Wipe lightly with Naptha and whalla- nice shiny 10 sec clear coat... and I end up clean up a tiny bit.
I am repairing very very small cracks in any black- especially fine lettering or details. Its hard to tell its been done in a pic but the playfield pops a lot more with clean black. Also with blue. I am not trying to fix the crack or repaint. I just want to fill it in and tint it to match the main colored area.
I love the bowler dude. His hairdo is quite stylish now. I cannot wait to get this playable. Its such a beautiful playfiled.
This is a good example of what I am doing. Turns out my Orange match is working just fine.
Left side has been retouched on bowling alley orange. Right side is next.
I'm contemplating touching my Pin Up up a little but am afraid I'll make it worse.
I really dig your approach on the paint repairs. It makes total sense to preserve the "age".
Rather the opposite: it would be very inconsistent if you would airbrush some coloured parts to perfection whilst other parts would still look aged.
Quoted from RonSS:
I'm contemplating touching my Pin Up up a little but am afraid I'll make it worse.[quoted image]
The game looks wonderful, I dont see major problems- so its a good candidate for a easier process and a nice result. For sure you can do this, I will say its a somewhat complex and if you go forward please feel free to post here when you start so I can watch the progress. Happy to help if I can.
Seeing how awesome that game looks lit up is motivating me to push this through!
Quoted from g94:
I really dig your approach on the paint repairs. It makes total sense to preserve the "age.
Thank you! I have done both ways- and for some games you really dont have a choice. One thing is for sure, I can move a lot faster when I am just brushing on and wiping off, but you need mostly intact paint. This is the first time I tried this approach over a first thin clear coat. Its working a bit better than I honestly anticipated, super pleased.
My Bally PlayBoy restore is on hold while I work on this and thats been an adventure with redoing large chunks of the art. But even doing that- I spray color matched yellowish brown for the whites etc... I guess I am a sucker for the patina of age. I dont feel old but I suppose I am only just barely older than this game so in pinball years that makes me a near antique!
A little more progress. This is the right side. It was good enough to restore but needed a bit of close up nerve wracking brush work.
The “N” is pissing me off. Its a little tiny bit fat now- and nearly impossible to fix it. I think its probably good enough. I am going to mess a bit more with it and will post a final pic with Naptha over the top.
The “N” fixed up just fine and this is done.
Going to do orange on bowling alley right side then keylines on right exit and then pink.
Note that the pic makes the cracks look very dark. Its shadowing more than reality. A coat of clear will improve the look. In person standing over the game it looks good
All blue white and black is done as well as 90 % of the orange. Just going to lay down white and green to start redoing top bonus then do two orange region on lower alley by out lanes and clear coat to finish top bonus reconstruction and spray pink.
Here it is - glossy is under naptha during clean up. Full view is dry and shows all tye depth differences and textures. Its going to be so fun to get this done.
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