King Pin restoration- picking up speed


By rufessor

2 years ago


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  • 164 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 week ago by mark532011
  • Topic is favorited by 14 Pinsiders

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There are 164 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 4.
#51 3 months ago

Thank you! That one was a bit of puzzle to put back together- always interesting to see how they manage to put all the pieces together- this bank even has two set screws that appear to be designed to lock the mechanism- maybe for shipping?

Anyhow- I can reset the bank with one finger now!

#52 3 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Ha! I count only 19 springs in prior pic... maybe it is in the tumbler. I swear I was careful but my tumbler is know for its healty appetite for parts....

One of those crazy-strong welding magnets works great for finding tiny parts in the tumbler media.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-inch-multipurpose-magnet-holder-1939.html

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#53 3 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Moving on- Drop assembly is rebuilt and spit shined-

Always like it when the metal shines again! Great work.

#54 3 months ago

Thanks all! Its gratifying to get a few comments back after all the polishing- I know its not the most exciting thread on Pinside but I am helping t0 hold some pinside realty and represent the old school devotees!!

One more pic of the mechanism and I promise to withhold for a bit. I really wanted to get this game inside to play it and was planning on NOT redoing the topside art and clear.... but now that I have the drops/slings/flippers/switches and pops pulled down to restore it seems stupid not to turn attention to the top side.

Thinking I will finish full disassembly of all playfield parts and polish etc- then reassemble major compinents but leave coils off so they hang- then flip it over and pull all posts etc and clear the thing and fix it up. Art is pretty good and I am considering leaving the cracks in the paint and patina- just filling in missing art and redo key lines in black- and reassemble after enough clear coats and sanding to bring it to a glass finish.

Thats the thinking today :D. It may change when remember whatever it is I may currently be forgetting

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#55 3 months ago

The second drop target in from the near end appears to be a different shade of off white. Unless that's just an optical illusion.

Seriously, amazing work. I've never taken a DT bank down this far and cleaned up everything. Your patience is overwhelming. Well done.

#56 3 months ago

Looking great. The ball return-hole kicker cam is nickel plated. Will shine up really nice with one of the typical metal polish that contain ammonia. I use 'Blue magic'.

#57 3 months ago
Quoted from MikeO:

The second drop target in from the near end appears to be a different shade of off white. Unless that's just an optical illusion.

Good eye- thats actually the NOS target I acquired to replace one that was broken or missing when I got the game (I dont rember which!). Funny its actually a little more yellowed than originals in game. But close enough. I may try the peroxide trick to de yellow but maybe not. It looks ok and I only have one more NOS target and I doubt any more exist....

#58 3 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

One of those crazy-strong welding magnets works great for finding tiny parts in the tumbler media.
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-inch-multipurpose-magnet-holder-1939.html

Hey Vid- I also have a magnet I throw in and tumble but its not that big. Do you dump the tumbler over the magnet or do you mix the magnet through the media in the tumbler. Thinking of going to a bigger magnet but curious how you use that one.

Thanks for the comment

#59 3 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Good eye- thats actually the NOS target I acquired to replace one that was broken or missing when I got the game (I dont rember which!). Funny its actually a little more yellowed than originals in game. But close enough. I may try the peroxide trick to de yellow but maybe not. It looks ok and I only have one more NOS target and I doubt any more exist....

In all actuality I was poking fun at the explicit level of detail you have gone to with this game. As I stated before, you should feel good about this effort.

I would not get worked up over trying to lighten that target. Any fluid you apply has the potential to damage or remove the art. The art images are fragile on the original drop targets.

What I would do is look for a clean original target if you really need to address it. Hard to say why the NOS you found is yellowed more than the originals.

#60 3 months ago

I can live with it
No plans to fix it!

#61 3 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

I can live with it

Hehe. I would too: one of the nicest drop target assembly's I've ever seen

#62 3 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Hey Vid- I also have a magnet I throw in and tumble but its not that big. Do you dump the tumbler over the magnet or do you mix the magnet through the media in the tumbler. Thinking of going to a bigger magnet but curious how you use that one.
Thanks for the comment

I usually pour out 90% of the media, then use the magnet to get the tiny parts out of the bottom of the tumbler.

#63 3 months ago

Ok- thats about what Indonwhen I am looking for something-

Sadly were RIP one spring. i have no idea where it is... PBR should save me.

Else- tonight was not the most entertaining but was necessary. I cleaned and straightened and polished all switches and blades and burnished all contacts for 2/3 or more of the playfield.

Here are the parts ready to reassemble left underside and put drops back (not going to- paint and clear needed).

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#64 3 months ago

A few Easter eggs were discovered...

And more than a few mangled switches were rescued...

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#65 3 months ago

Back in 1973 someone forgot to add solder to that coil- the rest are great joints. Now this one has two solid joins as well!

Future proof!

#66 3 months ago

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#67 3 months ago

That's a mighty handsome pile of metal parts you have there.

Which drop target spring do you need? I'd be happy to mail you one.

#68 3 months ago

Wow- that would be awesome! Thank YOU!

I would have to look for a catalog number but its one of the ten top springs. Strangely enough, they are different than the bottom springs. PM on its way.

2 weeks later
#69 87 days ago

Random shot of the tools I have used tonight- I always say you can fix an EM with a screwdriver but it’s a hell of a lot easier with a few more options.

Left underside of playfield hardware (underside mechs) is mostly done tumbling but was too much for a single load- so just took apart pop bumper and need to take kicker from bonus hole up top off- all else is tumbled and will be reinstalled after switches are all burnished and polished.

Right underside is as reassembled as I can go without through playfield hardware which is not going on until I strip and refinish and clear top—

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#70 87 days ago

Before and after- this is another aspect I could probably do a lot better on, but I hate polishing metal. Its the only thing with a high potential injury component to pinball repair and I use a power drill which is kinda insane- so I really need to get a bench polisher but don’t have room and ... whatever at this point. Good enough for something you really don’t see. Just don’t want the ball getting overly beat up and this will do that job well.

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#71 87 days ago

Nice work, game is a winner due to its history in Tilt the movie

#72 87 days ago

Gotta watch that movie now... HA!

#73 86 days ago
Quoted from rufessor:

so I really need to get a bench polisher but don’t have room and ...

This was my quick solution. I built a table for the drill press and then mount the buffer to it when needed. OK, actually I remove it when I need the drill press because it gets used a lot more than the drill. Just a cheap H/F bench grinder with the grinding wheels removed and buffing wheels installed. Metal on the left and acrylic on the right. It's still kinda dangerous... I have thrown stuff across the room and into the ceiling with it, but still better results and easier to use than a hand drill. Looking great! Keep it up!

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#74 86 days ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Gotta watch that movie now... HA!

My King Pin is the main star of this video I put together for a song my band made: » YouTube video
(which is also the theme song to the SDTM show)

I don't mean to derail, I thought you might enjoy it - keep up the good work!

#75 86 days ago

No derail- that game looks really nice! Hopefully this will come out like that- did you do the restore? Looks all polished etc!

Cool video! Thanks for sharing

#76 86 days ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

It's still kinda dangerous... I have thrown stuff across the room and into the ceiling with it, but still better results and easier to use than a hand drill.

EXACTLY! That shit is not for the faint of heart!

I may have to do something similar- in fact... I am ready to sheet a deck that goes over the door to my shop, and am using a material that will keep it completely waterproof under there. I could throw a used old grinder on a stand out there and plug in when needed. Maybe... I guess I need to invest in an inflatable sumo suit to wear when polishing to avoid all the thrown objects

#77 86 days ago
Quoted from rufessor:

No derail- that game looks really nice! Hopefully this will come out like that- did you do the restore? Looks all polished etc!
Cool video! Thanks for sharing

No restore at all - it's how I found it in the basement of an old timer who had a few EMs for sale. Sadly I was strapped for time so I didn't have the time to get the other ones, but King Pin was on my list ever since I'd played it at the Seattle Pinball Museum a few years back.
The cab and especially coin door aren't as nice, but the playfield over and under are top notch.

#78 86 days ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

It's still kinda dangerous... I have thrown stuff across the room and into the ceiling with it,

In a perfect world, your buffer would be mounted on the end of a pole.

Nothing under the wheels for stuff to launch off of.

Maybe consider mounting the buffer directly to the drill press table - with the wheel you are going to be using hanging freely off the side of the table.

You can never be too safe with a buffer.

Note that with these homemade buffer mounts, the buffing wheels always hang over free space:

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#79 83 days ago

Buffer1.jpg is the ideal solution, nothing goes far when it gets caught into the wheel due to over application pressure or lack of polish in the wheel itself, or very rough surface. Isn't that one a hack job by our friend Clay?

#80 83 days ago

Thank you! If/when I move to acquire a buffer I am now considering a bucket filled with concrete and a metal pole as a base- ugly but may be sufficient and meet specified criteria... certainly portable enough to throw it outside. Buffing is messy!

I will hesitantly continue with a power drill for at least a little longer.... I hate buffing enough that I accept less than sterling results! That may change after this idea incubates for a while longer.

#81 83 days ago

I buff out the doorway.

No toxic buffing compounds in the shop, and if something gets away, it ends up on the lawn

If you buff everyday, then a wall vent is nice:

» YouTube video

1 week later
#82 75 days ago

I noticed that I had been making some progress but not updating- nothing earth shattering but the playfield underside mechanical has been completely taken apart to nuts and bolts- tumbled and all switches polished and burnished with a Dremel and a brass brush. Switches all adjusted and looking good!

I have rebuilt the left side as far as I can without protruding parts and will be cleaning all undersides of inserts and regluing them. Finish build up on right and then turn it over and completely strip- air brush and cut stencils to repair bonus and then clear and begin reassembly. Top side should be pretty quick. Just a couple fixes and then a lot of key line work but nothing hard- just cut and place stencils and spray....

Then— reassembly will be a treat!

Pic show playfield under stripped but with left rebuilt to a rough mechanical.

Other one shows a Gottlieb mini stepper disc unit as disassembled as you can get it.

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#83 75 days ago

I had forgotten what an utter pain those little mini steppers are. They are like an Onion to disassemble- every time you strip a layer of parts off you find another layer- like four deep depending on how you count it...

#84 75 days ago

Layer one and it begins...

I had used some polish on the contacts to see how they looked under the crud... should come out great! Little wear given play count.

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#85 75 days ago

Layer two revealed

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#86 75 days ago

I think this is three

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#87 75 days ago

So if that was three... under thiat we have four... and then finally we get the coil free in our hands..

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#88 75 days ago

That whole three coil switch stack assembly ends up coming apart into a lot of pieces and the tumbler is nw on its fourth or fifth load just for the underside of the playfield. I think I ran one load for the lower cabinet parts- a lot of that is large and require hand polishing.... so 5 loads thus far I suppose...and its a decent sized unit! Lots of sparkly metal now... for sure!

#89 73 days ago

Then this happened...

I cleaned the middle a bit after I got it to see what I had- but that’s what 71,390 plus and 45 years will do to a game! A little dirty but actually is a good example. The wear by the bonus is unfortunate but common and only on one side on this game so actually- I consider this to be a good starting point and this one will come all the way back. Should be fun!

Onward!

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#90 73 days ago

Oh -Also. I friggin hate removing star rollovers from 45 year old brittle plastic inserts! Anyone have a method that makes it easy and less prone to breaking??

#91 73 days ago

Wow man that metal under the playfield really looks like new. And is that is before cleaning?
Looking forward to see what you'll do with the playfield.

#92 72 days ago

Yeah-if your talking about the three coil assemblies (mini stepper! Pop bumper and I forget) that I pulled off last... the mounts for the coils in that one spot were really really clean. Tumbler will be done today and I am sure they will look new!

Most of the metal on this game has been really good. A few spots here and there on light sockets that I cannot effectively clean and a bit of corrosion here and there but overall very very good and dang near new looking after tumbling/polishing.

#93 72 days ago

Sadly the coin door was not so nice... and that’s the one part you see!

Going to look and see if I can get a nice original... I don’t like the PBR chrome dooors... not original and glaringly obvious that’s the case.

#94 72 days ago

The process of removing the star rollovers is quite easy once figured out. Involves flat wood toothpicks, and takes about 1 mins now each or less. Broke my first trying years ago, never have broken one again doing it with flat wood toothpicks. The key is to get the teeth holding it in place 'open', and saying 'open', usually three does it around the nipple tip or maybe four toothpicks. positioned around it. Hope that helps, again never broken one since with this method and its fast.

#95 72 days ago
Quoted from SuperDaveOsbourn:

Involves flat wood toothpicks,

Got it! Pretty slick if I do say so. My method is to remove and replace the whole damn thing.

I'm going to guess the little stepper is the match unit?

#96 72 days ago

Thanks for that tip! I have pulled a few before but never without being sure I was going to break it first!

I don’t think it’s match- probably for the random lighting of the drop target for special and extra value. I assume match is in backbox where it is in my 1978 Gottlieb but I honestly have not looked at function yet- just disassemble and clean and rebuild- full on grind mode... so not sure I know what it does yet

#97 72 days ago

This cleaned up damn nice

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#98 72 days ago

I am 100% ok with the light crazing in the paint- the surface is perfectly flat! That’s staying as is- I will get color matches and with a damp brush will go over all solid blocks let it dry briefly then wipe it up- it fills the cracks beautifully. The rest is just some hand touching of chips and blending but wow- this is going to be sweet!

Gotta sand down shooter lane yet and also lightly sand top ball track but not much- just to blend it a bit and pull up dirt- not going to sand down for fear of exposing fresh wood grain and then seeing it even more- anyone know if its noticeable if you sand to fresh wood? I assume wood surface coloring ages a bit like paint and darkens/yellows- why would it not... and so try to avoid sanding wood when I can!

#99 72 days ago

When you say star posts do you mean star rollover inserts? If so , I don’t take any chances of breaking the playfield insert. I cut the tip off of the existing star insert and just replace it with a new one.

#100 71 days ago

Sorry- yeah I need to edit that- rollovers!

That is also a good idea... it’s the last thing I need to pull so I can take my time and try the toothpick trick and if it feels sketchy I may snip.

I discovered I need to go get a few different paint colors- I don’t have any green even remotely close to the playfield green.

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