King Pin restoration- picking up speed

(Topic ID: 133135)

King Pin restoration- picking up speed


By rufessor

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 months ago by mark532011
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#1 3 years ago

Just picked up another EM- 1973 Gottlieb King Pin wedge head.

Found this from a private home, they had it 30 yrs and it was in the garage collecting dust for the last 15-

Game fits into my collection really well and I am happy to have found another game I can enjoy- I am more or less constantly looking for games but very rarely find one that meets my criteria- Near perfect back glass, good cabinet structurally with repairable cosmetics and a play field that is a candidate for a high end restoration and clear coat. This one fits all three-

I have another game completely in pieces and in the middle of a major play field repair project so this game is going to get relatively little attention, and I have relatively little time to do anything pinball, so do not count on much happening here, but as it does, I will toss up some progress photos. This will be my fourth restoration, so I can at least claim to be undaunted by any mechanical electrical stuff with the EM, and in fact didn't even plug it in prior to bringing it home. It just does not matter, I want cosmetics, I can fix mechanical and electrical. I did look over wiring harness and a few switches and its clear game is original, not modded and this is consistent with owner telling me he never did anything to the game, had a company keep it up and never even recalled needing a repair-

Here are a few teasers, the entire game is filthy dirty with 15 yrs of garage dust/dirt on every surface, and its obvious that the last wax job was a few years before they stopped playing it. However, the wood on the play field and the inserts are near dead flat with ZERO planking, the paint is near flawless (one side upper kick out hole is worn to wood as per usual- but this is trivial to fix) and with some care I have a feeling this is going to come out as a near perfect example of a King Pin- it has a very high ceiling. The cabinet is similar in quality, structurally its like new, and there are almost no scratches- its in fantastic shape but yellowed fairly bad- I will clean that off as much as possible and repair the here and there scratches etc, but its staying original- whatever the color ends up being.

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#2 3 years ago

Love this game. Hope to add one to my growing collection. Congrats!

#3 3 years ago

Thanks! I was kinda on the fence about this title- the art work is OK but not my absolute favorite, but I discovered that these games grow on me and its highly rated here and everywhere else for its game play so I am now psyched to have found one.

It will be fun to have single player game of this era and this quality to play- I don't have a drop target game and thats what Gottlieb is "known" for so I guess if I am going to have 3 EM's in the house, this one fills a big hole.

Soooo... I spent a bit digging through the game.

For the most part its in spectacular shape, but literally every moving part (credit wheel, ball count, etc etc etc) is frozen up or barely moves. Game is not starting but I can get GI to work by manually actuating hold relay and score motor turns pretty easily.

I decided that although the metal parts are for the most part good, I am going to get a Thumler ultra vibe 18 inch tumbler and polish up all the components. Path for me on this one is going to be mechanical and under play field + back box first. I will pull a single assembly out at a time, rip it apart, ultra sonic clean then tumble, assemble (replace anything needing it), adjust switches (clean etc) and install... rinse and repeat until everything is done mechanically- then I guess I can clean the play field up and play a game-

I actually enjoy the mechanical tear down and rebuild of these games a lot- there is much beauty in their mechanical simplicity and you can usually figure out how something is supposed to work by just playing with the parts until it makes sense.

Looking forward to digging in after the tumbler gets here.

One question -

I am going to order a new coin door, and coin slot cover from PBR. I notice they are super shiny, is this the normal stock configuration? Or was this something PBR did to add some pop to the games?

#4 3 years ago

Spent a bit of time on general cleaning- I had to see what was under all the gunk.

I decided what I want to do to this game.

PLAYFIELD:
Going to preserve it more or less as it exists- I will fix damage and use a wipe on wipe off method with matched color to fill tiny cracks in color on play field. Then remove all inserts, sand, re-glue and hit with superglue along top edge to lock down. Clear with 2-part automotive HVLP application and sand and clear and sand until I have a glass surface.

Play field pics:
I used a damp microfiber rag, sprayed with simple green (a few squirts) and managed to remove 95% of the grime. There are a few spots with harder to remove grime that I am not willing to scrub with water based cleaners for fear of raising grain. So will eventually strip and ME + Iso to remove those spots and try to clean the wood bowling alley a bit more- but its really good right now and I have an outstanding play field to work with.

After cleaning first pass- 10,000 foot view
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Serial number paper work cleaned up nicely (see above similar shot before cleaning) and shows worst damage (left side- Kick out)
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Kickout hole- right side
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Shooter lane is really good- a little sanding will fix this.
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I love the splatter paint on the apron. Had not realized they did this on early Gottlieb's. Its basically factory new- a slight blemish under the card on the left side- who cares... I will leave this as original and clear coat to preserve. If I find any rust on bottom edges I will carefully remove it but not attempt repair- I would rather leave it original and slightly damaged in a spot no one will ever see than to fix it but not have the right splatter finish on it.
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More coming...

#5 3 years ago

Cabinet:

Backglass is nearly perfect- one tiny wear spot in a blue area- easy fix- unsure how to make invisible on rear- may leave alone.
You can see TINY cracks in black (look at score window- also less obvious but present in bowling ball- hard to see in this pic but its there- barely).... not going to attempt to fix- just not possible to make it look right on the back of the glass. UNLESS someone has a method I don't know about.
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Coin door had been kicked in at some point (lower left bottom has dent) not shown in pic. I used wire wheel to dig out rust in worst spot and polished back to see what I had, its pitted- needs to be replaced as does shooter rod plate and acceptor slots etc...
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Cleaned cabinet with Simple green (only 1 side so far- pictured). Didn't raise grain- paint is good- but someone has touched up with white! ? Really... ya almost would not even notice it if it was in a dark room with the lights off... will repair all this and generally bring it back- but not going to stencil- I want it faded/yellowed/retro/original. Will clear coat/sand/coat/sand/coat/sand/coat/sand until its close to level and shoot a final near matte finish over it. Should look pretty good at that point.
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And finally- this is the worst spot on the play field but for the kickoff holes shown previously... This will fix up easily- PF will be clear coated.
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#6 3 years ago

You may note that the 1000 numbering on the pop bumper caps is going away- I literally wiped across it gently 1 pass... and its gone- the paint is so old and so bad its literally not paint any more- its blue dust- thankfully these are available as repro parts from PBR- obviously will be replaced.

#7 3 years ago

WHOOO-

Got the side rails off with ZERO issues- anyone who can spot the yellowing on the cabinet white paint raise their hand.....
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This after trying a little bit of everything under the sun- known, unknown, and whatever- to get the yellow out. As of now the cabinet has been ME+Mean Green and its as good as its going to get- there is nothing more to be done but seal it in, and color match and repair-

Cabinet will be hit with coat of clear then sanded- and color match paint used to fill chipped/missing areas and any other issues. I will polish up rails/lock down etc when I can- the put it back together and work on PF. May be a while for real progress here- got to move it out of the garage and make room for my car again- but was fun to dig a little bit into this right away-

#8 3 years ago

very nice. looks like fun to play.

#9 2 years ago

That's such a fun game! Would like to get one someday!

#10 2 years ago

Thanks! Can't wait to finish this- but its a long road-

Super cool to find that game has really good bones- it should come together super nicely- in fact, but for the cabinet yellowing (and really mostly just that one side) the game is in far better shape than I had initially anticipated so feeling pretty happy with the addition.

#11 2 years ago

Hey rufessor, glad to see another thread from you. This should be a good one.

#12 2 years ago

THANKS! It should be fun- no really all that much work, and most of it rewarding- so little to really fix that once I get paint matches mixed up it will fly...

I was laughing at myself a few nights ago.... this is my first Gottlieb with a big drop target bank... its totally dead, but of course I had to start manually accuating a few switch stacks to see if I could bring anything to life... I hit the reset stack and the drop target reset coil fired- was not completely ready for that and holy cow- thats a big ass coil. It makes a very loud BANG when it fires and the drops reset- or at least I figured out thats what had happened after I picked myself up after ducking for cover I suppose its a good bit quieter when your head is not right next to it while reaching into the cabinet with the play field in the service position

On another note- apparently most of the mechanical is working just fine

Will be ordering my first tumbler this week- I don't suppose I will be able to resist ripping apart something just to make it shiny and stare it...

#13 2 years ago

This is so great-

I have been intending to keep the cabinet and not sand and re-stencil... but that yellowing was really bothering me. So as a last ditch effort- I took out 4 boxes of Magic Eraser and a bottle of isopropanol and worked on this for a while- its almost done and just look...

Before and after are not needed in photoshop- just obvious yellow/white border.
Three shots showing progress across the side.

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another step to the right
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and almost done... will finish up right side bottom and anywhere that needs it... but close
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Now I cannot wait to do the back box and other side- its going to be amazing- and totally original. I will spray it with clear, level in low spots with bondo, spray it with clear (sanding between all coats but for first two), then touch up paint carefully, then clear to level- Plan for now is a semi gloss top layer...but unsure on that.

Also- machine has all metal stripped from cabinet and I ultrasonic cleaned anything I could fit- coin door is totally disassembled and parts including entire door are in solvent to remove rust- and look fantastic- just need to buff- Decided to keep door- I can punch out dent and its not structural- and I can re-groove front and polish center front- its getting new levers for coin return and start button etc etc... but keeping core and entire assembly- its in fantastic shape now.. Pics when its done...

#14 2 years ago

Prior cleaning on cabinet was extensive and as harsh as I was willing- just to dangerous to get under paint with water and then your done and sanding it all off... it would never ever level under a clear coat if that happened.... As it stands now this cabinet might yet look good... gonna fill all missing spots with bondo filler but I do this after the first clear coat application- and thats two coats. Its to much work to retouch all the filler everywhere in the cracks around the fill if you try to level low spots before you clear the cabinet having done this before... bondo works great to fill tiny spots and its widely used under and probably feathered onto clear in auto repair... so I have been using this method on my other restore and its been working... I hope its long term- but I bring it up here because I am almost certain that this will be durable... however there is a difference between what I am doing and the gold standard cabinet prep... the difference is I amusing bondo on top of a couple coats of clear coat... and maybe just maybe this is a bad idea (doesn't stick well, can crack, etc)??... anyone know anything about this? I sand under Bondo application...

Seems fine and I have done it before and its been stable for over a year so I think I know.. but I bring it up to see if anyone else does this or knows this is OK.

1 week later
#15 2 years ago

Someone please- throw me a metal polishing lesson.

I have been working on the front of the cabinet- all the metal from that region to be specific.

I have the lock down bar and lock down bar receiver and coin door looking pretty good- but I don't understand quite how to finish the lock down bar receiver to a mirror polish. I am not even positive I will bother if its ridiculous amounts of work or I would need to buy a specialized tool...

So here is where I am at with these.

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As you can see I have the lock down bar receiver grained to match the lock down bar- the reason for this is I am not sure how to polish it further and at least this has it looking consistent and all the rust and 99% of the pitting is gone- but I know its supposed to be more like a mirror finish.

Here is my work flow- what do I need to change to bring to a mirror finish and how much work- HONESTLY is it from where I am at to a mirror finish for the lock down bar receiver (everything else is as it should be now and is done- but for coin door which I am on the fence with- may buy new).

DIRTY CRAPPY PART-
Ultrasonic or rag clean if it don't it.
Evapo-Rust bath
Water rinse or ultrasonic in pure water
Wire brush on electric drill
50-100 grit sand paper to remove pitting where needed
150 grit sand paper- one direction only to begin grain
finish grain with stainless steel kit- basically scotch guard type pads

I think that what I could maybe should do- would be to run up to 500 grit or maybe even 1000 grit sandpaper (wet??)
Then use the metal buffing pads- I have a grey compound for stainless steel- a white for carbon steel (I think) and a red for brass (to soft probably).... and I have tried using these on top of the grained surface even, finely grained, and to be honest- even with some serious pressure and a fast drill with the pad- I don't see much if any difference- so I gave up for the night and left it here.

I think the lock down bar is fine- its supposed to be grained- and I don't care if the underside is finely grained where maybe it was originally polished a bit more- its looks great... but I might want to try my hand at polishing the lock down bar receiver to a mirror finish and I just don't see how to get there from where I am at- clearly I need to use something more aggressive than a pad with a compound- but just don't know what that is.

JUST FYI- I have not done much to the coin door- just tried to remove pitting and re-grooved the main panel and lightly buffed the inner panel- but it is slightly pitted- so I guess if I figure out how to mirror polish I would sand the pitting out of that and polish it up- but until I know I can do this- I am not touching that inner panel on the coin door- I will just ruin it.

#16 2 years ago

Ok-

Lacking enthusiastic response like- "try google"....

I kinda decided that sand paper was the way to go- and I took the same approach I use for finish work on clear coat.

I sanded with a DeWalt random orbital palm sized sander from 100-150-220- then because I didn't want to go out and buy backed discs in 400-600-800-1000 I just did it by hand... then finished with grey steel polishing compound and cloth wheel and finally a metal polish and a rag and a top coat of carnauba wax to seal finish a bit.

Ugly glass channels are there to show off (or not) the little bit of mirror I got- I know I could take it up but its OK they way it is. The metal is not perfect so this is a good trade- looks really good but not gaudy.

I spent more time on the lock down bar receiver- with this treatment... and then did the side rails...

Here is where its at-

Also- note pic of cabinet left side- this was literally orange when I got the game. I have never spent so much time scrubbing with Magic Eraser and Iso- but after literally 16 sponges worth (large size) and a lot of sweat- here we are. Still need to do front of head, rear (a nightmare of yellow) and left side of cabinet and head as well as front of cabinet- Left side is in great shape- so easy... front and rear are remaining stumbling blocks that will take some time.

I decided to hit it with clear, then bondo and sand and bondo on-top (as planned) until its dead flat- then clear, and fix color and top-

I will be using a high quality furniture varathane semi gloss finish for this- I think... I am a little worried in that it will wet through with solvent each time- (more or less) and I have not used this on a cabinet... will test. Else will use auto clear- which will be fine- but I don't have a semi gloss or low finish so would be expensive to get (80 a quart or something and I would rather use that money for a coin door front).
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1 month later
#17 2 years ago

Ok- living up to the thread title with this long overdue update-

I finally managed to finish "de-yellowing" the cabinet. I am going to re spray the front of the cabinet and the rear- the rear was so badly yellowed that it affected the paint all the way to wood, the front is the same and missing a lot of paint. The rest- looks good-

These pics are the low point in terms of how the game looks, I have not added any paint yet- just removed anything damaged and yellowed. I had to remove a lot of the splatter on the yellowed "white" regions to get it to look anything close to white because the splatter was in the top of the paint, the colored regions are still mostly intact and in better shape.

The best part is the finish is SUPER even, once I fill a few damaged areas with bondo the cabinet is going to come out looking super new, sharp edges and very very smooth finish.

Compare these to above first images of game, its night and day for color.

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3 weeks later
#18 2 years ago

Where are we at now?

10 months later
#19 1 year ago

Hold- picked up another game that needed only some mechanical and cleaning- sothays almost done. Will be back here next... Three games in the garage keeps them all moving slowly. Will be down to two soon

#20 1 year ago

Sprayed cabinet and head with 2PartAC. Going to wet sand and get paint fixed. looking really good for what it is... Will post pics soon

1 year later
#21 8 months ago

Well- this game thread has not been updated in a good while. Time for a refresh-

This sat for a while as I have been working on my Bally Playboy which is a major project. I needed a break and wanted to get the King Pin game done so I dont rush the end of the PLayboy--- so the new goal is finish this game to in house playability by Christmas. I think its 30:70 I make it... but here goes.

Score motor disassembled- degreased and polished? Check

Chine unit cleaned and polished? Check

All score motor switches and switch contacts cleaned and brunished? Check

Entire bottom cabinet stripped and cleaned with all electronics out? Check

Sanding plywood mount for all switches in bottom of cabinet? Tonight...

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#22 8 months ago

Also- who knew that Gottlieb wrapped their bolts in wax paper for those on the transformer? I did not- discovered it after I had sonicated all the glue/whatever that brown gunk is off them. Rescued it and prob not necessary to replace (its not a grounding point).

Anyone know how to clean a transformer of this era. It looks to be paper/wax paper wraping so no chance with water is my guess...

How should I do this part? Clean the transformer? See pic

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#23 8 months ago

Looks nice sanded.

Paper is good- not going to clean further. It will either fall apart, fade, or water stain. So thats it for this. Reassembly can begin. A bit more tumbling and cleaning realquored yet, but maybe tomorrow it will come back together. Then i have the bottom of the playfield and head. All coils will be taken down and all metal polished etc- entire game- so a bit yet to do but making progress now.

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#24 8 months ago

nice work, am watching..

#25 8 months ago

me too

#26 8 months ago

Progress... I am starting reassembly on the bottom board and also finished metal work on the plunger assembly.

Every damn thing (including alll the switch stacks and plastic switch blade holders) has been sonicated and anything that would fit and didnt need to be desoldered has also been tumbled. I cheat and dip the assembled switch stacks and use my compressor to dry them adter a 30 sec cycle. It is amazing how well this works. For all score motor switch stacks I also burnished contacts on all blades with a dremel and a brass brush.

Then I hand polished all metal with Brasso and went through all the fuse contacts with the dremel as well as all plugs etc. Its looking pretty sweet- metal came out like new. I spent a good while on the transformer and it also came nearly all the way back. The mounts are pristine from tumbling and its gonna look cool all back together.... for now here is a teaser shot.

Some
Assembly
Required

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#27 8 months ago

Also- for extra credit for those reading this...

Any damn clue where this wire is supposed to go. Switch stack "C" from bottom cabinet. I was adjusting all switches when I found this easter egg....

I will consult schematics but to be honest I am not positive I can identify this wire color nor are Gottlieb schematics as easy as a Williams would be to figure out what it likely goes to...

So if someone wants to take me to the final level and teach me how to find that unknown wire on a gottlieb schematic I would love that...

Wire is orangish greyish with a stripe, maybe its yellow? Its is damn faded after 43 years sitting around.

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#28 8 months ago

I have a pic to update progress

I found the break point on the switch stack for the mystery wirr and got that reattached. Can you find the new solder joint? I think it looks original but if I was being picky I wish I had another drop of solder...

I went a little crazy and adjusted all the wires and switch ends on the switch stacks to be perfectly aligned and arc over coming straight up from the switch- as woild have been the factory appearance. The switch coils and stacks that control most of the functions are done as is the rest but for the score motor assembly. That will be next then onto finish the cabinet internals like assing a ground braid and putting tilt etc back in.

Somehow- I am Just missing two lock washers somewhere in the tumbler- I suspect.... else will have to replace before transformer can fully bolt down.

Will post final when 100% done but here is the transformer as well- came out sweet! Washers are dirty but could not ge tumbled or cleaned as they would have stripped all the fish paper/wax paper wrapping. Else all is tumbled and polished as much as can be done for this.

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#29 8 months ago

And the Other swith row.. matches the first now!

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#30 8 months ago

Love these EM restoration threads that include good descriptions of the work and great photos! I look forward to following your progress.

Thanks for sharing!
Brad

#31 8 months ago

Thanks! I am starting to get the itch to play this. There is a lot to do- next is install bottom board and ground braid to all contact points. I just threw in a grounded plug and wired into the transformer. I also finished assembly of the score motor- I use a carb cleaner and polish and a final coating of tri flo over meshing points on gears and it spins freely- just spin the platform (no switch stacks yet) and it goes a half turn longer than your contact- amazingly good clean motor.

I have to say this came back together easily. For me- it took 2.5 hours to do the motor and the wiring and I was cleaning switch stacks as I installed and being generally anal with alignments and switch adjustments- I also learned something cool about the motor. See attached pic- the shaft has a pin on it attached to the bottom collar of the windings. When you turn on the power the field pulls the windings in and that pin engages with the gears and turns them. When no power- it freely sinks with gravity.

Here it is so far

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#32 8 months ago

I like how you align these wires (It always feels good to see that I'm not the only one doing weird things with electric wires )
Great restoration so far, fav for me!

#33 8 months ago

Excellent- another control freak

I ordered my ground braid and a long nosed stapler. A month or two ago I got a used Quincy single stage compressor with aftercooler and a 1.5 hr 220V Baldor motor with a 30 gallon tank. I got it for what I think was a good price- 350 bucks. Then I stripped it and cleaned and painted- check it out now!

Shop is being wired for 220 v dedicated 20A line for this!

Since I dont have braid now and my other stapler would not work with 1/4 inch staples (3/8 wide) I ordered that as well. Damn- pinball is expensive- suddenly this game is costing about double- but all these tools will make the process coming up for Bally Playboy a lot easier. And Harmel globetrotters is after that. Harlem is in the house playing and I did a lot of the accessible mechanical so its awesome but needs to be touched up (PF onoy- cabinet is near perfect and staying).

Anyhow... i decided to work on the cabinet. Got it cleaned and polished and sanded the bottom (not inside the outside). The ply on the bottom which is really almost a false bottom because its supporting almost no weight- was loose so I glued and have 1 side clamped and drying.

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3 weeks later
#34 7 months ago

All right- back to King Pin. Electricians are putting new sub panel in for shop and will have 220V for compressor in a week or so!

In the mean time I have been putting the small DeWalt compressor to good use with the staple gun installing the ground braid. Ran a 3 prong plug and pulled ground off and juntion into a jones plug mount at rear of panel false bottom. Then run to transformer- across score motor and across total play meter where I pigtail into the coin box lock bar and meet the ground coming from the coin door frame and power switch.

Can/Should I ground the tilt frame?

#35 7 months ago

Pics of fully restored bottom panel. 100% done!

Going to finish cabinet now so I can install flippers and rebuild door! May do underside of play field first- whatever seems more fun.

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#36 7 months ago

Although the grounding braid is fun to install, if you are into doing it over kill where it doesn't matter at all (and you are), it will serve very little to any point except maybe, and I mean maybe when you power on and off the sucker with your hand on something that is grounded and there is a short in the switch. Thus, not likely. I have powered on and off 100s of games, literally hundreds of times and never received a shock. Old games, occasionally, but games like King Pin, never. BTW, the best part of your restoration is the time it took, the photos and growth you have made, along with you side stepping and restoring/building a compressor along with finally getting 240 installed for your new blue baby. Now, trick question, if the meter reads 6.3 volts AC or DC, what is the actual voltage likely to be? Think RMS.

#37 7 months ago

Glad you enjoyed the thread so far! Not going to make a new year/holiday finish but moving along.

Not totally certain I get your question RE voltage and I may be over interpreting. But RMS for DC is the same as the square wave height- for AC it's a lower value than peak height of the sine wave- but with the same voltage (RMS) AC and DC- you have the same power so I suppose there is no difference effectively.

Actual AC peak voltage will be quite a bit higher than RMS. Actual D.C. Peak is identical

#38 7 months ago

Love catching up on your restore.... thanks for taking the time to share your progress

#39 7 months ago

Played King Pin when it came out and I was a kid always a great game. Like the restore and glad for the catch up also.

#40 7 months ago

Awesome! I was alive but to young to flip and certainly not yet haunting arcades but I am really excited to have something almost as old as I am to flip! Kinda cool to look back and see how far tech has come, yet some of the old stuff is just as good as the new. Was playing Mass Effect with my son- introducing him to that type of game, and we had fun but pinball is just as good and probably more fun.

An update of sorts. Electricians are done, I am putting shop and garage back together and should be able to get some work in on the game over the holiday break. I think I will tackle playfield and back box. Thinking I will put in a PBR order for coil sleeves and do entire game mechanical. The I can play it or finish cabinet... not sure what may happen. I kinda want it inside playing but front of cabinet is rough and it would be stupid to put it together without finishing paint.... so I will have to wait but going to get mechanical/electrical done first anyhow.

2 weeks later
#41 6 months ago

Decided to stick to the plan and started on the playfield.

Going for a total mechanical rebuild and restore- along these lines

1) All mechanical assemblies stripped to pieces and tumbled.
2) All contacts and switch blades polished
3) All coil sleeves replaced
4) All top side visibible through parts removed
5) New pop bodies and skirts and tops
6) Instal NOS used clean drop targets

Progress so far- bottom right side is stripped (leaving wiring and coils will clean in place)

Tumbling all right side parts now

Drop target assembly removed- need to take it fully apart and tumble but no room in the tumbler now- thats next.

Check out how huge the reset coil is- there are two! One on each side to lift all the bowling pin drops.

Mechanicaly its looking really really good- dirty.... but I almost dont believe the number of play on the counter- all coils appear stock original and old (original date appropriate wrappers and coils are everywhere) and all mechanical is dirty but in excellent condition. Even pop retaining assembly and metal rings are in excellent condition and will not need replacing. For a game with 60K plays (I forget but around there- none are mine- it was frozen up a good bit when I picked it up) on the counter its looking amazing- should polish up beautifully.

7A00E551-DAF9-4FBC-A1FF-E63AC1049E09 (resized).jpeg
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#42 6 months ago

I cannot wait to rip apart the drop assembly. I love the mechanical beauty of these games. The assemblies are all very high quality parts that fit together well and yield a super rugged nearly bomb proof machine. The best part is accuating the assembly the first time after cleaning it all up!

In other news- compressor is functional now- I can fill the 30 gal tank to 100 PSI and aftercooler is amazing. Feed lines get super hot but tank lines are ambient temp so its holding a crap ton more air than a similarly sized tank with no aftercooler and moisture removal will be enhanced. On that note- I was reading more about this and decided I wanted to get a dryer and randomly encountered a small refrigerated dryer on a local want add site. So I am going to have a fun little system and managed to piece it together cheaply- which is always preferrable. Need to buy a regulator with a coalescing filter and plumb it all up! Should be better air quality than I need- and I think it should just be enough capacity to spray a cabinet (at least 1/2 of it) without stopping- and a playfield should be done well before I run out of air. Cannot do anything big continuously but this will be a crap ton better than waiting for a DeWalt contractor compressor to catch up after every pass on a playfield!!

Order will be tank- refrigerated dryer- coalescing filter - regulator - distribution manifold.

#43 6 months ago

Turns out there are a shit ton of parts to a 1973 Gottlieb 10 drop traget unit!

Tumbler starting soon...

C7271900-156A-4CED-A1A7-7CA45289CFBF (resized).jpeg

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#44 6 months ago

Also- the playfield mechanics are going to be unbelievable whej this is done. The quality of tue metal in 1973 is better by far than the 1977-78 games! It looks chromed to me but I dont really know.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

#45 6 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Also- for extra credit for those reading this...
Any damn clue where this wire is supposed to go. Switch stack "C" from bottom cabinet. I was adjusting all switches when I found this easter egg....
I will consult schematics but to be honest I am not positive I can identify this wire color nor are Gottlieb schematics as easy as a Williams would be to figure out what it likely goes to...
So if someone wants to take me to the final level and teach me how to find that unknown wire on a gottlieb schematic I would love that...
Wire is orangish greyish with a stripe, maybe its yellow? Its is damn faded after 43 years sitting around.

Did you ever figure that one out? If not here are some pics of my C relay.

IMG_20180106_095157 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180106_095141 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180106_095115 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180106_095110 (resized).jpg

#46 6 months ago

Thabks! I found what looked like a small tab from a broken solder joint on a blade and the wire had a corresponding break (sorta- it was a small joint- explaining why it broke). So i reattached but it will be worth comparing to be sure!

Took parts out of tumbler and polished all large pieces for drop assembly. Looking really good. Puzzle will go back together this evening!

image (resized).jpg

#47 6 months ago

That was one gunked up assembly. I am always amazed at how freely things move after this level of cleaning- its literally like a brand new game. Gonna be fun to play with everything snappy and tuned up! Sadly thats still a ways out but getting closer... almost done with playfield mechanical- then back box and cab finish...

#48 6 months ago

Moving on- Drop assembly is rebuilt and spit shined-

I seem to have lost a spring for one drop during the process. I will tumble a magnet to confirm its not in tumbler but anyhow- came out great and a spring can be replaced worst case... so far so good.

Finish up playfield next then its onto the back box (mercifully easy in this game- single player!). Time to place a PBR order for coils sleeves etc....

had to edit this post to add pics when the sun was up! Ha- the forst were a bit dark. LOL

33189F1A-254C-4AC6-8735-624094260571 (resized).jpeg

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#49 6 months ago

Ha! I count only 19 springs in prior pic... maybe it is in the tumbler. I swear I was careful but my tumbler is know for its healty appetite for parts....

#50 6 months ago

Amazing work! Looking factory fresh there.

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