Hi Rick
we (more or less) wait patiently for You to put-in a new fuse --- and to plug-in the plug with the 4 males into the socket so one of the males is plugged-in into the "socket with no wire soldered-on onto the socket" - You then have the transformer set to "use with 220 to 240 VAC".
Look here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/50hz-transformer#post-3738591 at the third JPG - an picture of my Gottlieb "Orbit" in the "220 to 240VAC" mode.
"V1" is just the holding of the socket. Unfortunately the socket "V6" is not clearly visible as wires are running through the picture at this place --- one of the males of the plug is plugged-in into this "V6 socket having no wire soldered-on". Greetings Rolf

Ok. I gave to pull another machine out tomorrow anyway so I'll get KoD too and take pictures for you, as requested. Hopefully, again with Rolf's help, these pictures and his thoughts will get you up and running. It's a great game and worth the wait.

Here's the link to those fuses: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Re-settable-Thermal-circuit-breaker-fuse-5-10-15-20-30-Amp-ranges-/381691539350?var=&hash=item58de96af96:m:m1DxVipDvkI24efnntl37DA

You just need to solder an old fuse onto the legs and it's ready to use.

Hi Rick +
the subject "Fuses" is of interest to me - I once started an topic --- https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/why-does-an-1-amp-slow-blow-fuse-not-blow-control-bank-reset , I am not an electro-tecnician --- in post-11 is "Rolf's fault in thinking" --- I then (summer 2016) said to me: In my pins the fuses do "seldom to never" blow - I put the subject away for some time and do some testing - when I (can) buy fast-blow and slow-blow fuses of 0.8, 1.0, 1.2, 1.5 etc. to 10, 12, 15, 16, 20 Amp Fuses. Up to now I didn't buy such fuses ...

Rick - a simple test is: Have spare 7.5 Amp fuse ready - toggle-off the pin and unplug*** the main power cord. Then change the Adj-plug to 110VAC setting , plug-in, toggle-on, start a game - does the fuse blow ?
Unplug***: Safety Reasons , here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-identifying-royal-guard-hot-wire-please in post-2 is a picture with the word "hot" --- here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-dodge-city-doingjust-weird-stuff#post-3306114 a little story to "hot / power / phase / phasis" on the wrong lug - , also: May want to read post-41.
Since then I always unplug the main power cord when I "just look at / work on the pin" - I only plug-in for testing.

Rick, since posts "34/35/36/37" we are on the problem "fuses" --- we actually try to get Your pin running --- where are we at ? - What is the next problem in "not running" ? Greetings Rolf
P.S.: I hold back "theory and questions to fuses" until You have put the board back into the pin and have connected everything.

Hi Rick
great - no more extraordinary problems --- back to normal stuff. Stop blaming Yourself --- actually You helped me - made me think of "must bring back to life / resurrect my topic about fuses".

The problem "Score-Motor runs and runs and runs": The Score-Motor and many Relays have a so-called "Self-Hold-Switch" - when started / actuated: The Motor / Relay closes this / its Self-Hold-Switch and it will run forever*** / pull forever***.
Well not forever*** as in the pin on another place something is made opening an switch - and this switch is also in the wiring of the "Self-Hold-Circuitry" - this switch made opening cuts the Self-Hold-Circuitry of the running Score-Motor / pulling Relay.
Example of Self-Hold-Switch etc.: See in the JPG my "red-10, -11, -12" - something makes the (red-10) M-100-Point-Relay pull-in - it actuates all switches - so the (red-11) "Self-Hold-Switch" closes and the relay pulls forever*** --- well, not forever*** as the moved plunger on the 100-Point-Score-Drum opens (red-12) Switch and cuts "Self-Hold-Circuitry" --- "red-10" let go and so its switches move back - so "red-11" opens - End of giving 100 points.
Another example of Self-Hold-Switch etc.: See in the JPG my "orange-6, -7" - something makes the (orange-6) Score-Motor start running --- after about 15 to 16 degrees of running / turning: The (orange-7) Self-Hold-Switch closes - stays closed - keeps the motor therefore running - the motor reaches degrees 118, 119, 120 and orange-7 opens --- motor stops.

Example of "a bit more complex feature 'making 500 points' actually means 'making five times 100 points by calling for help of a Score-Motor-Turn which will make the Score-Motor-Switch-1A to pulse five times to activate five times the M-100-Point-Relay' ": The ball on the playfield closes (green-1) a switch on a target worth 500 points - and then comes 2,3,4 ... 10,11,12 and ends with 21,22,23,24,25,26.

Rick, You plug-in Your pin and the motor runs a bit --- it does the end of a turn - and reaching 120 degrees: "7/25 opens and so the "motor 6/26" stops. Look in Your schematics near the symbol of the Score-Motor --- WHAT relays make the motor eventually turn --- when Your motor comes to "endlessly running": WHICH of these "relays in quetion" does constantly pulls ? Greetings Rolf

0Orbit-Work-21 (resized).jpg

Hi. Do you want playfield images, or score motor board images? I thought it was the latter but didn't go any further when you realised your spot-the-deliberate-mistake moment with your transformer
So let me know what you want and I'll do it with pleasure.

Doug.

Seeing I have a KOD disassembled in the shop, I thought I would assist on this. However I too am puzzled for the lack of locating a relay shown as "AS" 2 Coins Per Play, as well as "D" 2 play Relay.

On the underside of my play field there is a 4 bank relay as follows, "?" missing letter, "E", "F", "J". The last 3 are for the pop bumpers. I believe the "?" is "A" relay. Neither of these 2 missing relays are shown on the lower relay board.

So I would like to know if these machines did in fact have the "AS' and "D" relays installed.

Pic of the lower relay board.

IMG_0627 (resized).jpg

Hi Rick, Doug +
the flyer in ipdb http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1372&picno=4902&zoom=1 says in the lower left corner: Available with triple coin chute combinations. Other flyers I have seen telling "Available with one --- or two --- or three coin chutes".
How many coin chutes does YOUR pin have ? IF it has only two chutes: The funny chute "You must throw-in to coins (one after the other) to start ONE game" - this funny chute probably is missing in Your pin and Gottlieb (saving money) did not mount the relay to handle "Two coins must be thrown-in to activate the S-Start-Relay" --- see Your JPG in post-57: Horizontal line using "1st. Coin Chute" makes the AS-Relay pull-in - and the second coin through this chute then (closed switch on AS-Relay) makes the S-Start-Relay activate.

Does Your pin has an coin-adjustment-instruction card ? I look at the JPG in post-57 - I use some fantasy / imagination - I let the "Triple-Chute-Adj adjusted down --- the second coin-chute then makes the D-Relay pull-in - it closes some switches --- the "Self-Hold-Switch on W-Relay is bypassed / overridden --- means the W-Relay gets activated. I do not completely understand the D-Relay functionality (((I know that Gottlieb Liberty Belle can be adjusted: ONE Coin thrown-in adds ONE Replay onto the Replay-Counter and also STARTS ONE GAME))) --- You do not have such relays - why bother ?

Please post a link to Your "generic Start-up procedure" --- poor us: Gottlieb used over the years some letters for completely different relays --- (((also: AS is not AX ---))) please post the link.

Troubleshooting - Your Score-Motor starts running when You plug-in the pin --- at the end of post-56 I was asking about the relays that make the motor run --- on top of the JPG in post-57 I see "W DB O B G C Motor-1C-Self-Hold-Switch-on-the-motor" --- are we lucky and You see one of these relays pulling ? Greetings Rolf

My machine has 2 chutes, 10 cents and 25 cents. Gottlieb did not install the "AS Relay, 2 Coins Per Play", nor the "D Relay, 2 Play Relay" on it. It does however have the "W 3rd Chute Relay".

This sounds like it's a case of homeless relays that aren't connected to extra chutes. I say this because I have a handful of imported UK games that have a bunch of unconnected, assorted cables on the motor board that are simply left tied up from the factory. I would think that they would be used if an operator wanted to add an extra chute to, i.e the standard play, in this case, would be 6d per play (in pre-decimal coin days; the UK went decimal in 1970) or a florin and perhaps one for half a crown, thus the 3 chutes.

I can remember playing KoD when new and cannot recal ever having to drop 2 x 6d coins in to start a game. 2nd and 3rd chute machines normally gave, particularly the half crown versions, an bonus extra credit.

A local collector just sent me pictures of his lower relay board. It does show 2 additional relays that my machine does not have. One is an "AG" type relay which looks to be the "D 2 Play Relay", and an "AS" type relay which is the "AS 2 Coins Per Play Relay". I compared the wiring to the schematic and it matches.

So depending how the machine was optioned for coin chutes, dictates the relay assemblies.

Here's a pic showing the 2 extra relays.

King of Diamonds with extra relays (resized).jpg

Hi Rick
great - You solved a problem. You write about loosening the wingnuts - and the pin behaves. You either have the wingnuts loosened AND You make a good documentation - put the documentation in the pin -and You write something like "ATTENTION - wingnuts loosened - whoever wants to take the pin apart and move it to another place: be careful." - You either make such an documentation or You come back to the unit and the wingnuts after You have fixed all other problems.

In post-9 You show the list of relays --- what is Your so called "Reset-Bank in the Backbox" - the Control-Bank with maybe an problematic S-Start-Relay ? --- or the Sequence-Bank with maybe an problematic DB-Reset-Relay ?

Thanks for the link to the daina-Start-up description "Flying Carpet 1972" - I read it but I do not see a mentioned AS-Relay ... "post-57 - the S-Relay should be followed by the AS-Relay", hmm.

Sometimes the pin kicks out the Ball - look at Your JPG in post-57 - the Ball-Return-Kicker operates through "Switch on pulling O-Relay" as the motor runs and actuates motor-switch-4B. Greetings Rolf

Hi Rick
the daina start-up description is quite good - most important: It describes an ONE-Player-Pin.
Thanks for the list of relays --- a good thing to know is (look in the list): The A-Relay has contacts "5C" and the B-Relay has contacts "3A, 1B" --- helpful informations:
(Type) "A" is "Normally-Open Switch(es)
(Type) "B" is Normally-Closed Switch(es)
(Type) "C" is Three-blades Make-and-Brake Switch(es)
IF (if, if) the Outhole-Relay does pull-in and stays pulling for a while BUT the Score-Motor does not run: Look at the JPG --- One or two permanent Jumper-Wire(s) to feed electricity to "Switch on O-Relay" to (feed to) "Score-Motor". For Safety-Rewasons: Please unplug the main Power Cord and PLEASE: Use the good side of the fuse (as we want the fuse in the circuitry) - the good side with "wire-red-white" is soldered-on to the fuse holder.
Then plug-in and start a game - play --- does the Motor runs with the Jumper-Wire(s) ?

IF (if, if) the Outhole-Relay does NOT pull-in: Please write about. Greetings Rolf

0King-of-Diamonds-Work-12 (resized).jpg

I know the feeling, as we all have been there a one point. Just one thing, as the score motor is spinning upon startup, do the score reels reset to zero?

Are you otherwise enjoying the process? If not then by all means sell it. But if you are enjoying the conversation and repairs then by all means, stick with it.

First, with the machine off, manually advance the score reels to show points if not shown already. Then turn on the machine and activate the start relay. Do they reset, does the score motor continually spin?
If they don't reset, try manually activating the 100 point relay while the score motor is spinning. Does this advance the reel back to zero?