(Topic ID: 302580)

kick-Out Hole Adjustment

By tcw16505

2 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by tcw16505
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    #1 2 years ago

    I own and have owned several games with kick-Out Holes, Black Hole, Space Odyssey, Big Shot, Prospector, Soccer and others. A few have had kick-Out Hole damage on the playfield. Does anyone know of a way to nerf these mechanically or electrically, change the coil strength or add a resistor to weaken the kick? I'm presently have a Williams Soccer in front of me that is using a G-23 750 coil. Maybe size down to a G-22-550? I'm not sure what to introduce mechanically to weaken it other than a stronger return spring. maybe a bit of padding at the end of stroke. If I was to use a resistor in series with the coil, what watt and ohm range resistor could be used? Share your ideas and what you have done to solve this.

    kicker (resized).jpgkicker (resized).jpgkicker2 (resized).jpgkicker2 (resized).jpg

    #2 2 years ago

    On games that old I would think the damage has already been done. Keeping a clean playfield and scratch free ball should get you the rest of the way.

    #3 2 years ago

    I'm assuming you are referring to the usual worn spot(s) in the playfield paint from the impact and friction of the ball touching down hundreds of thousand times.

    If so, I would guess you might see marginal gains from an attempt to weaken the power of the kick-out solenoid. Still need to kick the ball with enough force to lift it up out of the hole it is sitting in and propel it outward. If the solenoid power is weakened too much, might run the risk of the ball impacting the rim of the hole and accelerating that component of wear.

    I would just touch up the wear spot with custom mixed acrylic, maybe spot clear the touched up area, and keep waxed so as to reduce the friction from when the ball slides when it first touches down.

    I've seen some people cut and install a small rectangle of Mylar to help protect the wear area. Only need about 1 sq inch or so of Mylar for most cases.

    L

    #4 2 years ago
    Quoted from EJS:

    On games that old I would think the damage has already been done. Keeping a clean playfield and scratch free ball should get you the rest of the way.

    Good points but there should be a standardized way to reduce the damage of these devices. I am dealing with EM's mostly but some of the late 70's and beyond began using a pop up method, raising these to playfield level vertically rather than throwing them. Maybe an easy swop retrofit device if originality isn't a factor would work for some and save the playfields.

    Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

    I would guess you might see marginal gains from an attempt to weaken the power of the kick-out solenoid. Still need to kick the ball with enough force to lift it up out of the hole it is sitting in and propel it outward. If the solenoid power is weakened too much, might run the risk of the ball impacting the rim of the hole and accelerating that component of wear.

    A holistic approach may be the ticket.

    - An in line potentiometer.
    - Adding a cliffy to protect the hole lip.

    I think this might best reproduce how modern pins accomplish this as when you enter the game parameters and adjust a specific coils strength.

    My only remaining question is do I size the potentiometer to the line voltage or to the load of this branch circuit, AKA the coil?

    NOTE: This is my best guess using Ohms Law folks! V = IR, where V is the voltage across the conductor, I is the current flowing through the conductor and R is the resistance provided by the conductor to the flow of current. I am substituting Amps for I below.

    If I size the potentiometer to the Line Voltage 24V/15 Amp fuse = 1.6 Ohms, 24V x 15Amps = *360 watts
    So if I want to reduce the load (15 amps) by as much as half is 7.5 amps

    24V / 7.5 Amps = 3.2 Ohms

    I would say a potentiometer rated at 0-3 ohms, 360 watts and a minimum of 24V should do what I need to experiment with this.

    Ohmite RNS3R0-ND or RNS3R0E-ND
    https://www.ohmite.com/assets/docs/controls_rheostats.pdf?r=false

    ****************

    If I size the potentiometer to the branch circuit,

    Williams uses a G-23 750 coil. That's 24 volts AC over 750 turns of 23 gage wire and when you measure the coils resistance its 3.9 ohms.

    24V / 3.9Ohms = 6.15 amps of load. 24V x 6.15 amps = *147.6 watts

    So if I want to reduce the load (6.5 amps) by as much as half or 3 amps

    24V / 3 Amps = 8 Ohms

    I would say a potentiometer rated at 24V, 0-8 ohms, 147.6 watts should do what I need to experiment with this.

    (*The wats could be reduced some due to it being a momentary load)

    Any thoughts?

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