Joe Shope in Utah. Just email him and he will let you know if he has the part.
It may not be the motor; sometimes the gearing is jammed up.
http://www.ballybingo.co.uk/index1.html

I believe this is a Pic of my 'Magic Squares" assy...... not sure.
Anyway....... to work on it, I think it has to be in a horizontal position.
I forgot you didn't get the lock opened yet!
IMG_2288 (resized).JPG
OOOPS........ I thought you were Mark working on his "Miss Universe...
I assume you have the key for the Backglass.

When I refurb squares units, it usually takes a couple of tries to get everything lined up exactly so. The amount of pressure put on by the retaining screw and compression spring seem to matter a bunch. Also, I always clean the slip rings and wipers and ensure the wipers are not too tight.

Like I said, I never get it exactly right on the first try. Keep fooling with it and you'll get it.

Right.......... from my experience they work ok, then they don't. Any bit of binding of the gears
will result in poor rotation.
I don't know how they kept them working in the field.
Maybe mike knows the secret...........

Once they are rebuilt they seem to be rock solid reliable, but it just takes some fiddling to get them "just so". Sounds like you and I share the same affliction!

Ok..............Now we need some Pics....
I haven't played my 'Key West' in a while, but I have a Pic.....

IMG_2648 (resized).JPG

Alt stands for alternating - based on the cam and position on the cam, that switch can be in one of two positions (open or closed).

the CU cams on almost all the games spin 180 degrees per cycle. The alternator cam switches are lifted one cycle, down the next. There isn't really a "normally", but the switches will be drawn consistently. However they are drawn on the schem, they all flip state on the next cycle.

some games like key west have two alt cams ... e.g. cam 9 and 9x. The cam lobes are opposite, so when stack 9 is up, 9x is down.

for key west 9B, it means every other cycle you can't trip the "2 or 18" trip relay thru the wire 91-6 path. You still have a 1/3 chance of tripping thru the mixer #3 path (wire 90 to 23-5), and that's frequent enough to imply your problem is above wire 90 or below wire 23-5 on the schem.

below is the timing diagram for key west. The CU cams lock at the blue line positions - which is relevant for 16 pulse cam fed circuits. You sometimes care what the alternator switch state is when the CU 7 and 8 stacks operate as those may be pulsing the score stepping and features circuits.

timing-key_west-timer_replay (resized).png

the only thing above wire 90 would be a couple wipers on the magic squares feature unit (MSFU). Stuff at/above wire 25-6 is ok because the magic squares feature unit is stepping.

below is the circuit. Since the magic square feature unit IS stepping, the circuit in green is ok. That leaves the path in red (and the messier way the red path could go thru the alt 9B switch) as not working.

keep in mind how the whole things works. The game will spot one of the two numbers when the magic square feature unit is at step 7 and higher. If the 2 or 18 trip relay is untripped, then 18 is spotted. If the 2/18 trip relay is tripped, then 2 is spotted.

your symptom is the 2/18 trip relay is never tripping, and checking the diagram for the MSFU in the manual, the only time wire 25-6 is connected to 90 is when the MSFU is at step 6. The game decides which number will be spotted on the step before the MSFU enables spotting.

probably the simplest way to find the problem is a jumper wire. Stick one end on wire 30 on the transformer ... that's the fat yellow wire that loops from an upper lug 10 to a lower lug 9 then off to the game (see pic below). Put the other end on wire 23-5 on mixer #3. The 2/18 relay should trip. If it doesn't, then either the coil is bad or more likely switch L2 needs clean/adjust (manual page 144).

if the 2/18 does trip, manually reset it an move the jumper from 23-5 to 90 on mixer #3. Turn the mixer 3 rotor backwards a few positions by pushing up/around the mixer rotor ... making sure the wipers aren't snagging rivet edges ... and the 2/18 should trip.

if that works, the problem is the wire 90 to wire 25-6 connection on the magic squares feature unit disc.

since it's probably hard to tell wire colors on mixer 3, below is the mixer 3 diagram from:
http://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/bally/key_west/resources/mixer-key_west-mixer_3.png

just count the wire lugs from the notch on top of the contact plate to find wires 90 and 23-5.

if you didn't have the mixer diagram and can't tell wire colors, an alternative to test if most of the circuit works is to jumper wire 90 to wire 25-6 on the magic square features unit - which there is a diagram in the manual for. That will make it way more likely to trip the 2/18 trip relay any time the magic squares feature unit is stepping. If no 2/18 trip, you know the problem is below wire 90.

make sense?

kw2 (resized).jpg

int-key_west-transformer (resized).jpg

mixer-key_west-mixer_3 (resized).png

It takes a few years to learn your way around.
Its nice to have "Good Help" along the way!

This is mentioned under "regular maintenance" on the Bingo website.
of their old motor parts to them.

A talk at pinball expo in 2008 by mark patzke, the president of multiproducts, produced the following:
• for gearboxes, use magnalube (a synthetic grease)
• for the sleeve bearings (the brass oil tubes), use 3-in-1 motor oil (blue can...not the red can!) or other teflon impregnated oil ..............................................................
***************************

I use the "blue" top 3-in-one oil for my "tubes".
I use synthetic 75-90 gear lube oil for the gears.
I figure if the 75-90 is good enough for the
rear end gears of my car, it should work great in my
bingo motors.
see below!
Terry K

My car June 2017 MDP (resized).jpg

if using a liquid, go for the thickest stuff you can get or add a thickening agent. Don't put in a lot ... you want the oil to be below the shaft level to minimize how much weeps out ... and it almost always does.

there's a few styles of the multiproducts gearbox. Some of them have both gear shafts going all the way through the casing. The main shaft pokes out one side, and the small internal shaft pokes out flush on the bracket side. There is a rubber seal on the main shaft that won't work well anymore, and nothing on the other shaft to prevent seepage.

I've seen people try and cover the small shaft hole. I certainly helps, and if you use something like a thick piece of rubber it'll compress between the gearbox and bracket and seal the hole pretty well ... if the motor isn't one that mounts to grommets so there's a gap between motor and bracket.

the operators that used gear oils often made metal drip pans they mounted under the mixer motor. They mostly let the oil leak onto the metal shelf on the head, and every 20 years or so mopped a little of it up

on the plus side, liquid in the gearbox can reduce gear noise a little.

I've opened NOS gearboxes. There's not a lot of grease in there. You especially do not want thick grease packed between the gear faces, that'll bog down the motor. You just just want grease on the teeth and a little at the bottom.

'course, the motors had a 30 day warranty, so peanut butter would probably last that long.

I know what I'm trying next time...

Dirty spotting disc would cause this, dirty slip rings, or another dirty switch in the path to award. If you'd like to isolate the problem you'll need to observe if this only happens on magic squares, and then if only on ABC. Problem with dirt is it is going to be intermittent. It won't happen every time.

If you look at your spotting disc and see a bunch of black dirt tracks, it's probably time to clean it. Cleaning can be a challenge, but you need to remove or partially remove the wiper arms on the rotating part of the disc.