(Topic ID: 330801)

Keeping regraining lines straight

By mmr61184

1 year ago



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  • 4 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by mmr61184
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    #1 1 year ago

    Any of you have advice for heeling the sanding and regraining lines straight when doing ball guides? I follow Bryan Kelly’s posts and methods but I have a hard time keeping the lines super straight especially when you really have to sand the grooves out it’s really difficult to not have to go back and forth so hard. Appreciate the advice. I didn’t want to use the drill method if possible

    #2 1 year ago

    I don't have too much help... I use a drill press and 'flap wheel', and I do a lot more regraining lock down bars than ball guides.

    I set up a piece of wood that I clamp to the drill press table to make a flat table to keep things absolutely straight as I slide the piece that is attached to a wood block along the table surface into the spinning flap wheel. By sliding on a flat surface I keep the lines straight.

    The key is to never slip, never end your stroke too early. Repetition and being careful.

    You can get good results, but it's always nerve wracking when you have to keep things absolutely straight.

    #3 1 year ago

    Start with course sanding material, then progressively finer, then eventually finish off on a polishing wheel.

    Sometimes I do abrasive ball, flapwheel, or just hand sanding--all that generally depends on the shape of the part, though. When you start getting to a finer grit with hand sanding, I generally do wet sanding. That followed by polishing can lead to something close to a mirror finish.

    As for the motion--it's just back and forth along the long face of the metal part. Don't slip and don't go off at an odd angle, and it usually turns out fine.

    #4 1 year ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Start with course sanding material, then progressively finer, then eventually finish off on a polishing wheel.
    Sometimes I do abrasive ball, flapwheel, or just hand sanding--all that generally depends on the shape of the part, though. When you start getting to a finer grit with hand sanding, I generally do wet sanding. That followed by polishing can lead to something close to a mirror finish.
    As for the motion--it's just back and forth along the long face of the metal part. Don't slip and don't go off at an odd angle, and it usually turns out fine.

    Thanks, the bigger u shaped ones were giving me trouble for the most part the grain is pretty straight just trying to get them really straight if I could.

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