It most likely needs a new flyback if it's snapping. It will also help if you identify it beyond a "k7000".. that actually does not exist. It's probably a u2000,u5000, k74XX, or k75XX if it's a 25 inch.

This post will help you identify exactly what you're working with so you know what monitor you're working on and what flyback to order:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-267353.html

Keep in mind that beyond a cap kit and flyback, you could have a bad tube. From my experience, it's worth shotgunning a cap kit and flyback for $40 to see where you're at with it.

k7000 for a 25 inch is not common at all. I've never heard of such a thing.

THAT manual illustrates the different k7000 "models", as I described above.

k7000 is a series of monitors, not a specific model. The 25 inch models aren't actually shown in there... I don't doubt they exist, just never seen one. They were offered as a "kit" by Williams.

If you just blindly order a flyback for a "k7000" series, it will probably work fine. It also helps to know what model you are working with, especially if you have to troubleshoot further.

Screen Shot 2016-12-27 at 4.33.59 PM (resized).png

They may be interchangeable but it's not entirely identical. The 25 inch chassis's shipped from the factory with taller heatsink(s) because they generate a lot more heat.

That was my mistake on the klov link... that was to identify the difference of 25 inch u2000, u5000, and a k7500.

I would say that the tube could be shot. Do you have a decent degaussing coil you can wave in front of it? Is the auto- degaussing coil on the tube actually plugged in? You could also test the degaussing circuit by probing for voltage at that plug (crefully!)

As for the "k7000"...
K7197, k7184, k7191, all exist for certain. Certainly, these are considered to be in the k7000 series but there is no such thing as a k7000 monitor. I've been fixing monitors for 20 years. The k7000 models all share similar parts but often have different flybacks, HOTs, and capacitor values. Not only that, but a ton of them had factory fixes that should only be used for specific models that had known problems. It helps to know what model you are working with here. You will be more informed and may learn something.

...
Heh--not in this collector/ops opinion !

--- as for the photos, the model is likely on one of those stickers where the video harness plugs in---> if not there, a sticker along the top metal edge OR, just post the large numbers etched on the chassis Pcb and I will tell you what model you are working with. It's not so critical unless you are changing out more parts.

Also, the screw holding the convergence rings in place should either be on the top or bottom, not off to the side like that ?

Yeah, that screw on the metal ring with the big glob of glue... loosen it and turn it so it's on the top, horizontally across like this

<-----l

It shouldn't be sideways like in your pic. Those are the color convergence rings and their alignment is very imoportant, regarding colors.

Honestly sounds like a tube issue. I would post a pic of what it looks like with the video harness unplugged, still showing the distortions. If the color distortion is still strong, the tube is likely shot.

No one has. There's no such thing. I've seen it all and Hantarex monitor quality puts any k7000 series monitor to shame!

I realize everyone commonly calls every Wells from the 1990's a k7000. It reminds me of when in pinball people say "wpc pin" for every single DMD machine made after Funhouse. Or when people say "solid state" and think it only means pinball machines that came before 1990. So annoying. Another one is when people think Funhouse is a system 11. I realize it's neurotic. Sorry.

Yes, the molex connector is what I meant.