(Topic ID: 176819)

k7000 monitor acting out


By toddsolus

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by brainmegaphone
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

Hi there
I am having issues with my 25" k7000 monitor on my police trainer.

I have recapped the whole thing and am still having issues. I have started a thread on KLOV but I thought I would try here as well

the symptoms are:
screen is blue red green from left to right in vertical thirds. I have adjusted the rgb drive and bias and this does not do much to change it. The purity rings also have no effect. There are also horizontal red lines running through it. The flyback is the the type with the black knobs but It is buzzing pretty loud sometimes and has zapped me when I tried to adjust it once. Though when i don't get zapped the adjustments seem to work ok here is an image

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#3 2 years ago

It most likely needs a new flyback if it's snapping. It will also help if you identify it beyond a "k7000".. that actually does not exist. It's probably a u2000,u5000, k74XX, or k75XX if it's a 25 inch.

This post will help you identify exactly what you're working with so you know what monitor you're working on and what flyback to order:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-267353.html

Keep in mind that beyond a cap kit and flyback, you could have a bad tube. From my experience, it's worth shotgunning a cap kit and flyback for $40 to see where you're at with it.

#4 2 years ago

Looks like the yoke has slipped on the tube neck to me? Nothing to do with caps or supposed "cap kits".

Sounds to me like you need some professional assistance with it.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

It most likely needs a new flyback if it's snapping. It will also help if you identify it beyond a "k7000".. that actually does not exist. It's probably a u2000,u5000, k74XX, or k75XX if it's a 25 inch.
This post will help you identify exactly what you're working with so you know what monitor you're working on and what flyback to order:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-267353.html
Keep in mind that beyond a cap kit and flyback, you could have a bad tube. From my experience, it's worth shotgunning a cap kit and flyback for $40 to see where you're at with it.

Uhhh they do make 25" k7000s...... I have quite a few along with some k7400 and k7500 (which are a med res monitor)

I agree with the post above I would be looking at your yoke also just for fun have you tried degaussing it? Also if the flyback is zapping you def get it replaced ASAP.

#6 2 years ago

Yes 25" k7000 is a pretty common chassis....
As far as the Yoke goes it seems to look ok, I moved around a bit to see if it wold help...can you touch the yoke while the game is powered on? seems like you would have to to adjust the dynamic purity.

#7 2 years ago

k7000 for a 25 inch is not common at all. I've never heard of such a thing.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

k7000 for a 25 inch is not common at all. I've never heard of such a thing.

Well, it's in the manual...
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Wells%20Gardner%20K7000%20Manual%20from%20Williams%20Game.pdf

#9 2 years ago

We didn't move the yoke too much because it was still glued in place. It could be a different chassis, but it looks exactly like a k7000. Could a failing flyback cause this?

#10 2 years ago

THAT manual illustrates the different k7000 "models", as I described above.

k7000 is a series of monitors, not a specific model. The 25 inch models aren't actually shown in there... I don't doubt they exist, just never seen one. They were offered as a "kit" by Williams.

If you just blindly order a flyback for a "k7000" series, it will probably work fine. It also helps to know what model you are working with, especially if you have to troubleshoot further.

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#11 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

No such thing as a model k7000... K7000 is a "SERIES" of monitors... The MODEL is like this: k7700, k7800, k7900... you see? Common mistake, carry on.
Again, it will help you tremendously to identify what model you are dealing with by using the link in my above post.

This issue with this is his chassis is not in the link above. While i understand k7000 is a "general" term for that series of monitor/chassis, everyone in the industry uses the term k7000 to refer to that particular series because all k7000s are the same, the term k7000 covers the 70xx, 71xx, 76xx, 78xx, 79xx. Perfect example of this is if you go to order a cap kit for a k7000 chassis, it will be listed just as that, it most likely will not be listed as a k7900 cap kit (possible might list both). See Link

http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=136_137&products_id=392

k7000 is also a different chassis completely then the ones talked about in the link to klov. I am guessing his particular chassis is a k7191 which if i remember correctly is the common 25" version, it could also be the k7000A which is identical to pretty much all the other k7000 generation with the exception of the oddball flyback, it actually would help knowing if it was a k7000A due to those flybacks no longer be available so he wont beable to replace it if needed. All K7000 chassis that i have come across (both 19" and 25") have been identical/interchangeable parts wise with the exception of the k7000A flyback.

OP dont touch the yoke while the monitor is on, while i have never tried it, i do believe the copper can shock you. It sounds like it loosened and perhaps slid down the neck a little. With the monitor off see if you can loosen the screw a little and slid it towards the front of the cab.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from Dr-Willy:

All K7000 chassis that i have come across (both 19" and 25") have been identical/interchangeable parts wise with the exception of the k7000A flyback.

They may be interchangeable but it's not entirely identical. The 25 inch chassis's shipped from the factory with taller heatsink(s) because they generate a lot more heat.

That was my mistake on the klov link... that was to identify the difference of 25 inch u2000, u5000, and a k7500.

#13 2 years ago

Do you have another chassis you can swap in to test? If your yoke is glued (most are) and you are certain nothing is moved on the yoke my best guess at that image is guns in your tube are going. Assuming you don't own a tube tester kit swapping with another chassis would be your best way to confirm.

I do agree the multiple colors on the screen lead me to believe it is yoke related... but again if nothing broke or moved on the yoke next bet is tube.

I do not believe it is the fly back.

#14 2 years ago

kenlayton come spread your years of knowledge!!!!

#15 2 years ago

just for posteritys sake here is the manual for the 25" k7000 incase you dont have a copy.

http://www.wellsgardner.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/K7000-1.pdf

#16 2 years ago

We have a 19in k7000 chasis we could test with. Will it be interchangeable with the 25in?

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from Dr-Willy:

just for posteritys sake here is the manual for the 25" k7000 incase you dont have a copy.
http://www.wellsgardner.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/K7000-1.pdf

Lol. For posterity's sake, that's the same manual I linked to...

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from donjagra:

We have a 19in k7000 chasis we could test with. Will it be interchangeable with the 25in?

Unlikely as they likely have different neck boards...

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

k7000 for a 25 inch is not common at all. I've never heard of such a thing.

25k7000 is THE most common 25" standard resolution monitor from the 90s. They dominated the market before wells started with u2000 and u5000, which led to k7400 and k7500. IMO, the original k7000 chassis is superior to its predecessors.

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from nephasth:

Lol. For posterity's sake, that's the same manual I linked to...

I missed that post lol sorry I was to busy arguing over using the name k7000 for th chassis

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

25k7000 is THE most common 25" standard resolution monitor from the 90s. They dominated the market before wells started with u2000 and u5000, which led to k7400 and k7500. IMO, the original k7000 chassis is superior to its predecessors.

For standard res here is no chassis in higher regards among collectors and ops then the k7000

#22 2 years ago

So I took out the chassis again reflowed some spots put it back in. The flyback is acting stable now but those color green red blue sections of the screen are not changing. I moved the yoke around it is tight against the tube. When i turn it the picture gets crooked I pulled the signal connection wires from the game pcb to the monitor pcb and the tube still had the color distortions The r g b drive pots do literally nothing Keep in mind the graphics occasionally smear as well as there are static thin horizontal lines running through. I feel like it's the tube but I do have limited experience with monitors.

#23 2 years ago

I would say that the tube could be shot. Do you have a decent degaussing coil you can wave in front of it? Is the auto- degaussing coil on the tube actually plugged in? You could also test the degaussing circuit by probing for voltage at that plug (crefully!)

As for the "k7000"...
K7197, k7184, k7191, all exist for certain. Certainly, these are considered to be in the k7000 series but there is no such thing as a k7000 monitor. I've been fixing monitors for 20 years. The k7000 models all share similar parts but often have different flybacks, HOTs, and capacitor values. Not only that, but a ton of them had factory fixes that should only be used for specific models that had known problems. It helps to know what model you are working with here. You will be more informed and may learn something.

Quoted from Dr-Willy:

For standard res here is no chassis in higher regards among collectors and ops then the k7000

...
Heh--not in this collector/ops opinion !

#24 2 years ago

Her are some photos

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#25 2 years ago

--- as for the photos, the model is likely on one of those stickers where the video harness plugs in---> if not there, a sticker along the top metal edge OR, just post the large numbers etched on the chassis Pcb and I will tell you what model you are working with. It's not so critical unless you are changing out more parts.

Also, the screw holding the convergence rings in place should either be on the top or bottom, not off to the side like that ?

#26 2 years ago

Well. The caps all work and I bought them according to this pic

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#27 2 years ago

Yeah, that screw on the metal ring with the big glob of glue... loosen it and turn it so it's on the top, horizontally across like this

<-----l

It shouldn't be sideways like in your pic. Those are the color convergence rings and their alignment is very imoportant, regarding colors.

#28 2 years ago

I have messed with the rings according to that manual and they do absolutely nothing

#29 2 years ago

Honestly sounds like a tube issue. I would post a pic of what it looks like with the video harness unplugged, still showing the distortions. If the color distortion is still strong, the tube is likely shot.

#30 2 years ago

By video harness you mean the molex on the bottom right in the first pic. Or the whole neck board ? I pulled that molex on the bottom right of the board and nothing changed those colors are still there

#31 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I've been fixing monitors for 20 years

20 years and you've never seen a 25" k7000?

#32 2 years ago
Quoted from Dr-Willy:

20 years and you've never seen a 25" k7000?

No one has. There's no such thing. I've seen it all and Hantarex monitor quality puts any k7000 series monitor to shame!

I realize everyone commonly calls every Wells from the 1990's a k7000. It reminds me of when in pinball people say "wpc pin" for every single DMD machine made after Funhouse. Or when people say "solid state" and think it only means pinball machines that came before 1990. So annoying. Another one is when people think Funhouse is a system 11. I realize it's neurotic. Sorry.

#33 2 years ago
Quoted from toddsolus:

By video harness you mean the molex on the bottom right in the first pic. Or the whole neck board ? I pulled that molex on the bottom right of the board and nothing changed those colors are still there

Yes, the molex connector is what I meant.

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

No one has. There's no such thing. I've seen it all and Hantarex monitor quality puts any k7000 series monitor to shame!.

Agree 100% but they are no where near as easy to repair or troubleshoot which is probably why many collectors take a 7xxx over a Hantarex any day...

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