First, don't put a fuse in with a higher rating. You can cause alot more damage. Let us know which fuse is blowing. Then we can point you in the right direction.

Here is a start, but if you could let us know what fuse it is, someone can give you a better idea of how to troubleshoot the problem.

If fuse F2 is blown and no high voltage at TP2, almost for certain one of the four 1N4004 diodes next to fuse F1 are shorted. Use a DMM set to the diode function and test the diodes. In one direction .4 to .6 volts should be seen, reverse the leads and null voltage should be seen. If fuse F3 is blown, suspect bridge BR2 as shorted. If fuse F5 (TP4) is blown there is a short in the general illumination circuit. If fuse F4 is blown, suspect bridge BR3 as shorted.

Never up the fuse rating!!!!!! If the fuse blows it's doing it's job (saving the high dollar stuff).

Here's another bit of info on fuses and pins:

1 - 32v is for automobiles not Pins...... Pins use 250v
2- Use Slo-blow fuses and the correct amperage rating the manufacturer recommends.. A regular 10a fast acting 250v fuse in a 5a Slow-Blow rated line will ,not last as long if at all, blow on power up etc. .. A Slow blow is designed not to blow on a quick electrical shock..

Make sure all your fuses are all 250V and what the manufacturer states for that location.

We need to know which fuse is blowing but you probably need to have your Power Control Board rebuilt. Your machine is over 30 years old. Those Bridge Rectifiers weren't designed to last that long. This is common. I've had to do it on all of my old machines but one and I rebuilt it anyway. You should also replace the two big capacitors on your Solenoid Driver Board. Have you removed/replaced the battery on your MPU? Hopefully it hasn't leaked and is corroding your board.