I too just picked up a Quick Draw! Mine came with coin mechs but they are detached from the coin door...

I think mine might be rougher than yours...

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Yeah it was in Coleman MI around midland. That's a space heater alright. I jumped the temp from 20 to 40 so I could brave the cold and drill out the lock and start moving stuff inside. I committed the Cardinal sin, I bought one more machine than I can currently fit. What was I thinking???

I haven't even checked to see if the coin mechs are correct. Mine needs a lot more work before the tune up!

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Will do. I'm doing a full playfield restore on this one. Need something to keep me busy during hibernation...

Keep it going, Dawson! I am taking an entirely different approach. I am attempting a complete repaint prior to clearcoating. Here are some before shots, and some of my progress so far.

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No, that's the power of photography, I am doing this all by hand with brushes etc.

Yeah, Ken, about 40 hours so far... But then again I'm slow as molasses..

Nice looking machine, DrJoe. Sort of a strange color cast to the photo though, looks really blue, is that just the lighting in the pic?

Dawson, I've used waterslide decals for the circles around the bonus lights with some success. I just used the software provided with the decal kit and made circles of the correct radius and width. You might try that. Here is an example of a spirit of 76 I recently finished...

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I used Testors custom decal system. Can be purchased at shop.hobbylobby.com. It is a kit that comes with a mini cd, some decal paper, clear and white, and an aerosol can of decal bonder spray. They also sell just the decal paper separately. I used the software to create the images because I don't have anything like photo shop, but the software is very crude. It was trial and error for circle size and thickness. I just printed to a transparency and overlaid it until I got it right then printed actual decals. But as far as doing the white lettering I have never done that.

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I don't know how clearing before touchups relates to a complete repaint, but here are the results before clearing...

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No, I applied a small amount of clear to the areas by putting drops down with a toothpick and smoothing them over the low areas and cracks. When dry, I sanded smooth and then painted. I don't think that is the "correct" method, and I will probably do it differently next time as it was difficult to get as smooth as I wanted. But then, I do a lot of stuff that is not by the book. My results so far have been pretty good, however, but this is only my third attempt at playfield restoration. I experiment, screw up, learn, screw up some more, and hopefully learn enough through my experimenting to end up with a reasonably good result.

Great job Dawson! Here's mine!

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Painted the entire thing by hand, a complete repaint. That is a brush on clearcoat sanded between each coat (except between first and second). Still not warm enough here to get out in the garage, so the cabinet will have to wait for a while...

I plan to do a complete cabinet repaint as well, as I seem to do with all my cabinets...

I did get all of my parts on the playfield though. Here's a couple of pics.

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Thanks. I actually redid the lettering on the entire playfield with a toothpick. PIA is an understatement, but it did turn out pretty well, I think.

I cut way back on the coffee that day....

I take the opposite approach. Because I dismantle the entire game prior to cabinet and playfield touch up, I go through every switch contact, etc. and clean, take apart, adjust etc., before putting everything back together. Before I begin, I power up the game and try to get it playing just so I have a baseline before I begin teardown. Always, not everything works, so I note the issues and proceed with my teardown / cleanup. I find that when I put things back together, I have fixed some issues, and of course created some others, but at least I know that I am starting with clean (mostly adjusted) contacts and mechanisms. Otherwise, I find myself "chasing my tail" through the debug process.

Just my two cents....

Yeah that is a very good point, I guess I should clarify a bit. I usually dont take all of the switch stacks off of the score motor, I just try to clean them so they are making good contact. And I am very careful during this process.

Although, I did decide to take all of the switch stacks off of the score motor on the Quick Draw that I am currently working on because the whole machine was a complete horror show. And guess what? I discovered that the motor brake switch blade was broken along with two other Level B switch blades, which you really wouldn't notice without a very thorough inspection because they are sort of burried under the cam assembly.

I'm sorry about your cat. Hope your friend can fix him/her up.

Yeah, I would agree, if you find yourself adjusting multiple switches (aside from cleaning them to make sure they are making good contact) then you may be looking in the wrong place for the problem. Many issues are solved by determining that one switch that is not making or breaking when it should.

It sounds to me like your sequence bank reset is continually firing. I would start by checking the normally open contacts on your start relay. If the one in line with the sequence bank reset is stuck closed (red and yellow wires?). This could cause this. The other thing to check would be the normally open contact on motor 3B (Orange and purple wire?) to make sure it is not stuck closed, this is also in line with the sequence bank reset circuit.

You might also check to make sure that you don't have a stuck trough switch.