(Topic ID: 84387)

Just looking for sympathy... My TZ clock started acting up


By altan

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by altan
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

One image has been uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_3645.jpg

#1 5 years ago

It has been working great since I fixed it about 9 months ago, but I got the "clock is broken" error over the weekend.

Sadness

I'll take it apart and check it out. I'm thinking it might be as simple as the connectors at the bottom because, after slightly touching them, it started freaking out in test mode (opts going on off).

I haven't heard people having to rebuild the female connector (because of cracked wires), but I'm wondering if that's my problem. Or if I need to reflow the connectors on the clock.

#2 5 years ago

Lol, this is understandable. Those connectors are likely the problem if you touch them and it goes. Don't sweat it though, it's just a poor design, but a great game. I completely rebuilt mine before discovering it was the optos gone bad. I bought the European board and it works great. Those are the little .100 connectors and there usually pretty good but you will figure it out, I have faith. Sympathy accepted. Todd Scott

#3 5 years ago

Save the headache and buy a new board. Once these start reporting errors you have less than a 50% chance that your fix will hold up for more than a few months. I have fixed these in the past but no longer do them after I completely rebuilt one with all new parts and it was still reporting errors due to who knows what (carbon build up in the board shorting the traces??)

#4 5 years ago

Mine is doing the same thing. What board do you suggest getting?

#5 5 years ago

Ingo's is by far the best. Thing is freaking bulletproof. http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html

#6 5 years ago

I agree - I have had no problems since installing Ingo's board.

#7 5 years ago

Thanks!!!!!! Just ordered the German board

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from altan:

I'll take it apart and check it out. I'm thinking it might be as simple as the connectors at the bottom because, after slightly touching them, it started freaking out in test mode (opts going on off).
I haven't heard people having to rebuild the female connector (because of cracked wires), but I'm wondering if that's my problem. Or if I need to reflow the connectors on the clock.

Might need to replace the header pins too if they're tarnished.

While it's apart, might want to quiet the gears down with some grease specifically designed for use with plastic--such as Synthetic Polyolefin (PAO) Lubricant/Grease; M-Kote EM-30L; NLGI#1.

Small jars of it can be found on Ebay.

Mine turned out nice and quite.

My sympathies--and good luck.

#9 5 years ago

What the heck - i just ordered the German board with the color changing LED's. I haven't done a thing to my TZ and owned for many years. Most practical mod IMO... and my clock was not working correctly either.

#10 5 years ago

Ingo's board installed here too.

No issues so far & looks really nice with the cool white LEDs behind the white clockface, especially alongside the coolwhite glow of the Pinbits Gumball board.

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from NM:

Might need to replace the header pins too if they're tarnished.

While it's apart, might want to quiet the gears down with some grease specifically designed for use with plastic--such as Synthetic Polyolefin (PAO) Lubricant/Grease; M-Kote EM-30L; NLGI#1.

Small jars of it can be found on Ebay.

My sympathies--and good luck.

Thanks for your sympathies (and for the lubricant/grease suggest)

1 week later
#12 5 years ago

Great news! I spent some time debugging this problem and came to the conclusion the problem was the interconnect between the minute opto board and the hour opto board. Slight bending of the board would cause strange clock behavior.

I decided to remove the original interconnect all together. I desoldered both the male and female sides, cut seven ~2" pieces of wire, and directly soldered the wires onto each board. If ever needed, I can still "fold open" the two PCBs and work on them, but now the questionable interconnect has been removed.

And it's working great! I've been running the "fast clock" test for > 5 minutes with no stopping. Prior to this repair, even when the clock appeared to be working, the "fast clock" test would stop on its own after a minute or so.

IMG_3645.jpg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside