(Topic ID: 124338)

Just knocked the bottom out of another one. Bally Star Trek Resto


By Lovef2k

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 89 posts
  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Lovef2k
  • Topic is favorited by 36 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 110 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20160327_181137_(resized).jpg
20160327_181123_(resized).jpg
P1310599_(resized).JPG
P1310589_(resized).JPG
P1310586_(resized).JPG
P1310583_(resized).JPG
P1310582_(resized).JPG
P1310581_(resized).JPG
PC300485_(resized).JPG
PC300483_(resized).JPG
PC270480_(resized).JPG
PC270481_(resized).JPG
PC270467_(resized).JPG
PA180351.jpg
PA180350.jpg
PA180349.jpg

There are 89 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Sorry I just re-read your question. Just woke up It's an original that I just cleaned up.

Hmmm, I have only ever seen fish paper. Interesting

#52 3 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Hmmm, I have only ever seen fish paper. Interesting

Yes the Star Trek has fish paper. I guess the fish paper wasn't enough protection from shock hazard so around 1980 they went to the plastic cup, as I would call it.

#53 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

looks great. wish they had faces with rounded corners.

I hear ya, I guess it's all the in the demand aspect like everything else involving pinball repro parts. Just a side note, the new production skins are warped now. The only way I can describe it, is when you place a pan in the oven, when it gets hot sometimes they pop and the 2 opposite corners pop up. This must have something to do with the stamping or the metal used. Marco says all of them are that way now. When all the inner parts are installed, the door straightens up but still has a slight curve which you can see from a side view. It's very slight and unnoticeable but I have yet to install it and see how the how closes against the trim. I won't find out until after the re-paint. The inner plate is very rigid. When installing the plate, you have to lay the face down on a flat surface and insta;; the 4 screws hand tight. Then press down on the inner plate in the center and tighten all 4 screws before releasing the pressure. This will ensure that the face will be flat.

#54 3 years ago

Started stenciling last weekend. So far I'm pleased with the results. I bought this stencil set from Pinballpal.com years ago. They have been laying flat under some games all this time. Mark Clayton made these stencils. His attention to detail was impeccable. The only issue I had was that the thickness of the stencils caused some thick tape. At first I thought I was going to have to redo the whole thing. I was able to reduce the thickness of the lines by wiping the edges with some acetone and alot of rags. It took some time but I was able to save the day. At this point I decided to order a set from Pinball pimp for the remaining blue and the backbox. I like Mark's stencils but they were too thick and the edges like to grab too much paint. Pics are after removing the heavy lines.

P8230238.jpg

P8230239.jpg

P8230240.jpg

P8230241.jpg

3 weeks later
#55 3 years ago

Slowly but surely, getting the ST cab finished. I had an extra set of stencils so I decided to try something a little different by adding some artwork to the back side of the backbox. I cut out the Enterprise ship from a side stencil and applied it to the rear side. I have an alvin g game artwork on the reverse side so I wanted to add a little something extra to the ST. I also altered the color a bit by adding some red and yellow to the photon rays, thrusters and stars. I kept the sides original.

IMG_2542.jpg

IMG_2543.jpg

IMG_2544.jpg

#57 3 years ago

Awesome.

#58 3 years ago

Thanks, looks better in person, pics are a bit grainy.

#59 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

OH, the face or skin, is a repro from Marco. I think they either have a different supplier, or the original supplier changed the metal because the skins I used to get from them did not look this nice. These actually have protective film on them and the old ones didn't.

Cool, I was wondering how those Marcos door skins looked. If they are good enough for your restoration, then I feel pretty good about using them for my pins.

1 week later
#60 3 years ago

After adding the Enterprise to the rear of the backbox I decided to add Star Trek lettering as well. Jeff from Pinball Pimp stencils made this for me upon request and I added it this weekend. I'm finally getting close to finishing the cab restoration.

P9260301.jpg

P9270304.jpg

#61 3 years ago

Nice work on the head.It needs to be positioned to show it off when the resto is complete.

I ordered a door skin from Marco a couple of years back for an EBD.There was no film on the one I got.Yours looks terrific.

Love those era Bally's.

#63 3 years ago

That looks great, Rich. My own project has been set aside while I tend to an unexpectedly needed home renovation, so it's nice to live vicariously through you. On a side note, is that a 2100 receiver? I had one 2100 back in the day (big transformer!), and I still have Marantz and Sansui integrated amps from the 70s. Fun stuff.

Steve

#64 3 years ago
Quoted from Evets:

That looks great, Rich. My own project has been set aside while I tend to an unexpectedly needed home renovation, so it's nice to live vicariously through you. On a side note, is that a 2100 receiver? I had one 2100 back in the day (big transformer!), and I still have Marantz and Sansui integrated amps from the 70s. Fun stuff.
Steve

Thanks Steve. Yes it's a 2100. I am a huge fan of 70's hifi too The 2100 has the torroidal transformer similar to the one Pioneer was using and supposedly threatened to sue Realistic for using their design. The 2100D has a standard square transformer. I'm actually planning to sell the 2100 because I don't use it much and need to offset some of the money I have spent on pins and pin parts. These are getting a good penny on ebay these days and mine is in great condition and has box and manual. I also have a mint pair of the Mach One speakers w/ boxes to sell also. I also have a Pioneer sx-1010 (keeper) with CS 99a speakers that I love to crank up now and then.

Rich

1 week later
#65 3 years ago

Cab resto finally complete. I finished off by applying several coats of clear satin lacquer. The coin door is ready as shown earlier in this thread. I chromed the lock down bar, shooter rod and bezel and the real pf glass support bracket. I have repro side rails as well. Been tumbling screws to ready to re-intsall the small parts which have been re-zinc plated. Will post pics as I go.

PA100332.jpg

PA100333.jpg

PA100334.jpg

PA100336.jpg

PA100337.jpg

PA100338.jpg

PA100339.jpg

#66 3 years ago

I like the added graphics to the rear of the backbox. Also like the fact you painted the inside of the cabinet. Looks so much nicer and cleaner too.

#67 3 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

I like the added graphics to the rear of the backbox. Also like the fact you painted the inside of the cabinet. Looks so much nicer and cleaner too.

Thanks. I like the inside of the cab to look nice as well. I installed a new floor which makes a world of difference.

#68 3 years ago

nice, i like what you did to the backbox (behind) i did exactly the same thing on my restorations, i think it's a nice touch.

446086-i.jpg

439955-i.jpg

#69 3 years ago

Sweet! The shuttle looks amazing

#70 3 years ago

Got alot done over the weekend on the backbox. I cut new aluminum for the ground shield and installed it. The side aluminum is the exact width as the 6 inch flashing that Home Depot sells so I got lucky there. I'also installed the PCB mounting brackets and other hardware that was all re-plated. Mounted the boards just see how it looked but they still need work. Next on the to-do list is install the new rectifier board to the transformer assy. I painted the shield that goes around the transformer with a new coat of black.

PA180346.jpg

PA180345.jpg

PA180344.jpg

PA180347.jpg

PA180348.jpg

PA180349.jpg

PA180350.jpg

PA180351.jpg

2 months later
#71 3 years ago

Rich, it's time for some New Years update on this ST. Hope it makes it to a show in the spring. Damon

#72 3 years ago
Quoted from Ballypalooza:

Rich, it's time for some New Years update on this ST. Hope it makes it to a show in the spring. Damon

Yes I have been so busy with work, Holidays etc. Sorry I haven't been posting my progress. I'm finally wrapping this bad boy up. Fired it up the other night for the first time. No smoke or short circuits upon power up which is always a relief! I had the old MPU in there which is ugly and amazingly still boots. I had some switches not responding that were not in the same row on the matrix so I tried an alltek MPU and the game seems fine. I still have one stand up target not responding. The nacelle mod is pretty cool. It was great to hear those lame electronic sounds again though lol.

For those that have seen my resto's this one was done to the same level of detail. I even went as far as stripping the backbox lamp board, painting it and installing new lamp sockets and supply wire. Installed NOS 6 digit displays and replated the holders in nickel. Also put in new covers for the displays. I have an NOS backglass ready to go in with new trim and a repro stainless steel lift channel. Alltek driver board and 100% LED's. GI's have warm white frosted and inserts color matched. I tried to use the custom drop targets from Classic Arcades but they were too tall so I had to go back to the standard DT. The 5 white stand up targets are brand new, I also replaced many leaf swithes and re-pinned 90% of the connectors and housings.

For anybody doing a ST CPR swap please note that the new PF is about .050 thinner than the original PF. It doesn't sound like much but I noticed most of the screws for mounting the mechanical parts are long enough to show a slight bump in the clear coat. This might also be caused by the harder wood used as opposed to the original soft wood. Screws tend to push up the wood instead of "digging" through, if that makes sense? I used washers to eliminate the possibility of an issues.

I will be posting more pics soon.

#73 3 years ago

Here's some pics of the lamp board before stripping and after painting and adding new lamp sockets and supply wire. I completely stripped the lamp board. Sanded it and gave it 2 coats of quality exterior white paint.

PC270467_(resized).JPG

PC270481_(resized).JPG

PC270480_(resized).JPG

PC300483_(resized).JPG

PC300485_(resized).JPG

1 week later
#74 3 years ago

I'm finally getting close to finishing the ST, I have one switched lamp that refused to light. I have continuity from the lamp driver connector to the socket. New socket and new LED checked and swapped with another. Also tried a new lamp driver. I'm baffled at this point. The NOS Stern displays look great and are perfectly centered with the back glass score windows. I lit up the NOS back glass tonight and was very pleased with it. The purple and green outlining of the uniforms really come to life. I used CT warm white frosted for all the GI's.

I need to re-align the outhole kicker because the ball bounces back sometimes. There's a metal guide on the left side of the pf that was peened pretty good so I'm going to fabricate a new one.

Pics coming soon.

#75 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Got alot done over the weekend on the backbox. I cut new aluminum for the ground shield and installed it. The side aluminum is the exact width as the 6 inch flashing that Home Depot sells so I got lucky there. I'also installed the PCB mounting brackets and other hardware that was all re-plated. Mounted the boards just see how it looked but they still need work. Next on the to-do list is install the new rectifier board to the transformer assy. I painted the shield that goes around the transformer with a new coat of black.

PA180346.jpgPA180345.jpgPA180344.jpgPA180347.jpgPA180348.jpgPA180349.jpgPA180350.jpgPA180351.jpg

Looks very nice. What did you use to cut the aluminum?

#76 3 years ago

Great restoration job. Thanks for posting .

#77 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Looks very nice. What did you use to cut the aluminum?

Thanks. I used aviation snips. Wiss I think. The side pieces are just 6 inch flashing that comes in a roll so very little cutting.

#78 3 years ago
Quoted from mtbpinball:

Great restoration job. Thanks for posting .

Glad to share,thanks

#79 3 years ago

It's gonna be great. Will it make the Allentown show in the spring on display?

#80 3 years ago
Quoted from Ballypalooza:

It's gonna be great. Will it make the Allentown show in the spring on display?

I'm think of bringing it.

2 weeks later
#81 3 years ago

Well it's finally finished! 100% functional and looks awesome. I put a brand new alltek MPU and lamp driver for dependability. I'm going to put a photo album together with captions in the next week or 2. Here's a few pics for now.

P1310581_(resized).JPG

P1310582_(resized).JPG

P1310583_(resized).JPG

P1310586_(resized).JPG

P1310589_(resized).JPG

P1310599_(resized).JPG

#82 3 years ago

Outstanding resto!!!!! I can't stop staring at that coin door's finish!!

#83 3 years ago

awesome like usual!

#84 3 years ago

man you did great! love the star trek in the back.

#85 3 years ago

Thanks everyone! It really came out nice.

1 month later
#86 3 years ago

Amazing as per usual. Will call Rich. Just been buried with everything.

2 weeks later
#87 3 years ago

Bravo!!! Definitely saving this thread... This is what I just took in last week or so ago... My next project.

20160327_181123_(resized).jpg

20160327_181137_(resized).jpg

#88 3 years ago

Nice looking machine. My first restoration; always will have a special place in my heart.
Are those the original Opaque Red Flipper buttons? If so; *Cough*Cough*

Roger .... that's going to need a whole lot of lovin!... and Glue.

1 month later
#89 3 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

Bravo!!! Definitely saving this thread... This is what I just took in last week or so ago... My next project.

Good luck with the resto!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 279.95
From: $ 45.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 30.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 86.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 149.00
$ 96.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 14.50
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
$ 279.95
From: $ 15.00
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
2,500
Machine - For Sale
Ottawa, ON
1,495
Machine - For Sale
Riverside, CA
1,700 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
East Greenwich, RI
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 279.95
$ 279.95
From: $ 13.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 50.00
From: $ 155.00
There are 89 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside