(Topic ID: 124338)

Just knocked the bottom out of another one. Bally Star Trek Resto


By Lovef2k

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 89 posts
  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Lovef2k
  • Topic is favorited by 36 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 110 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20160327_181137_(resized).jpg
20160327_181123_(resized).jpg
P1310599_(resized).JPG
P1310589_(resized).JPG
P1310586_(resized).JPG
P1310583_(resized).JPG
P1310582_(resized).JPG
P1310581_(resized).JPG
PC300485_(resized).JPG
PC300483_(resized).JPG
PC270480_(resized).JPG
PC270481_(resized).JPG
PC270467_(resized).JPG
PA180351.jpg
PA180350.jpg
PA180349.jpg

There are 89 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 4 years ago

I'm starting my 7th pin resto since getting into the hobby in 2008. This one is the 1978 Bally Star Trek. So far I have stripped all the parts from the cab and head. Most metal parts were sent out for re-plating and are already back. This game will feature a CPR repro playfield with the nacelle mod,CPR plastics,a NOS standard backglass, custom drop targets, rebuilt and repainted cab and much more.

Here's the damage I inflicted today. Cab had been repaired previously and was still coming apart at the bottom. The bottom panel also has mold inside so it has to go. The bottom of the cab were the floor is notched in was splintering so I just chiseled all around and will add new wood to hold new floor in.

P4110070.JPG P4110072.JPG
#2 4 years ago

Faster.....I wanna see it done

#3 4 years ago

LOL, me too! I have a full-time job, house and 16 year old daughter, so it doesn't leave much time for pinball. However, Star Trek is an easy swap and I think I can get the whole game finished by the York PA pin show.

#4 4 years ago

I'll be watching

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

However, Star Trek is an easy swap and I think I can get the whole game finished by the York PA pin show.

I'm starting the clock now

#6 4 years ago

Not much to see yet. Working on the inside of cab. Removing old glue, sanding and filling. I removed the wood trim from the pf. Sanded and repainted them. Will install them tomorrow when dry. Tumbler running now also. I may work on the swap a little tonight, time permitting. Will start by intalling the Tee nuts and pre-drilling for the lamp sockets.

#7 4 years ago

I sent out all the tech cards for the backbox and cab for reproduction. Got them back already. Some of the cards I have done laready from previous Bally repros but here are the ST specific and I also did the small white labels for the pf fuse, flipper assy, sling-shot assy, and outhole kicker assy. They are full sheets that I will have to cut. PM me if anyone is interested in a set. I can provide a complete set for entire game.

P4190077.JPG P4190078.JPG P4190079.JPG P4190080.JPG P4190081.JPG P4190082.JPG P4190083.JPG P4190084.JPG P4190085.JPG
1 month later
#8 4 years ago

finally getting back to the ST after Allentown show and opening pool and what not. I cleaned up the inside of the cab and painted the inside walls. Borrowed a table saw from a friend to cut the new floor. I'm using something similar to OEM to keep the original look. I painted the switch mounting and speaker blocks. The speaker block was splintered and didn't turn well after painting so I made a new one and will leave it bare. Glue is set now and I can cut the holes in the floor using my trim router, using the wood black as a fence for the router bit to ride on. I'm debating on weather or not to cut the vents in the floor, I don't really see the need and I always though it lets in more dust than anything.

P5210118.JPG P5210119.JPG P5210121.JPG P5210122.JPG P5210123.JPG P5210124.JPG
#9 4 years ago

Wow

great attention to detail

Highly illogical that this game will be gone overnight (get it) LOL

couldn't help myself

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The bottom of the cab were the floor is notched in was splintering so I just chiseled all around and will add new wood to hold new floor in.

The bottom of the cabinet is 1/4" material which is notched in 1/4" from the bottom of the side panels. I built a new cabinet for a KISS restore I did and opted to replace the typical setup for the bottom with a piece of 1/2" plywood that is flush to the bottom of the cabinet. Same reveal inside but a much stronger floor and will resist the typical edge splintering. Since many of us lift these machines with hydraulic lifts, just made sense to me to make the bottom stronger.

#11 4 years ago

I'm going to follow this.

Awesome guy who does awesome work!

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Wow
great attention to detail
Highly illogical that this game will be gone overnight (get it) LOL
couldn't help myself

haha thanks!

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

The bottom of the cabinet is 1/4" material which is notched in 1/4" from the bottom of the side panels. I built a new cabinet for a KISS restore I did and opted to replace the typical setup for the bottom with a piece of 1/2" plywood that is flush to the bottom of the cabinet. Same reveal inside but a much stronger floor and will resist the typical edge splintering. Since many of us lift these machines with hydraulic lifts, just made sense to me to make the bottom stronger.

I did think of going 1/4 in ply instead. My concern was that the hole for the speaker mount would splinter after cutting. Plus when I do a cab restore, I try to make it original as possible. On the other hand, your idea of upgrading to 1/2 ply seems like a great idea. I don't have the tools to make a whole new cab but if I did , I would do what you did.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from NJGecko:

I'm going to follow this.
Awesome guy who does awesome work!

Thanks Greg!

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I did think of going 1/4 in ply instead. My concern was that the hole for the speaker mount would splinter after cutting.

It will be fine.

I always replace crapboard with 1/4" ply when the bottom is ruined.

2 weeks later
#16 4 years ago

Did this last weekend. Squared up cab and glued the floor in. Repaired the bottom edge where I chiseled out the the wood and replaced it with new strips that I ripped on the table saw. Clamped and glued them on and then filled any gaps with wood filler. I'm happy with the results so far. This is the first I have done it this way. Cut new wedge cleats and glued them in as well. Waiting for the ground braid to come in so I can staple it in and nail in the two boards that keep the coin box in place. Also while I was at it, I replaced the metal security plate. I know it's not necessary for home use but I like to stay close to original as I can. I glued the speaker mounting block and switch block to bottom and used a trim router to make the round holes and vent slots.

P5250125.JPG P5300127.JPG P5300128.JPG P5300129.JPG P5300130.JPG P5300131.JPG P5210123.JPG
#17 4 years ago

I hope to start on the outside of cab very soon. The front miter joints are separating and I will run some wood glue in there and tighten with a few stainless steel deck screws. Will place them in the leg are and under the side rails so after I fill over them it won't show. The rest of the outside parts of the cab are still in decent shape.

P6060132.JPG P6060133.JPG P6060134.JPG P6070136.JPG
3 weeks later
#18 4 years ago

I'm finally getting back to my Star Trek resto. BAA had a backorder on the ground braid and I got it last week. Installed it and also the coinbox divider wood pieces in the cab. The leg brackets were still in good shape, not stripped, so I cleaned them and re-used them. I also decided to ground the rear legs. I'm not sure why Bally chose not to ground the rear legs on the early solid state games. I wasn't too much effort and used maybe 3 more feet of braid and made the game just a tad safer.

P6270155.jpg

P6270153.jpg

P6270156.jpg

P6270154.jpg

#19 4 years ago

I also started the pf swap a few weeks ago. There's a few minor issues with the pf that I can share. There's a missing hole at the end of the shooter lane on the top side for a red post. It's the post that stands between the wire ball guides. The holes for the wood border trim were way off. Another thing I found, not as critical but worth mentioning is the 3 holes for the ball launcher mech are off by an 8th of an inch or so. Should be an 8th of an inch towards the right. Also the right side apron hold down bracket holes were a little off.

P6280158.jpg

P6280161.jpg

P6280170.jpg

P6280171.jpg

#20 4 years ago

P6280173.jpg

P6280162.jpg

P6280164.jpg

P6280163.jpg

P6280165.jpg

P6280167.jpg

P6290176.jpg

P6280174.jpg

#21 4 years ago

Looking good.

#22 4 years ago

Clean stuff!

#23 4 years ago

St is lining up as my next winter project. Mark this as favorite and will be watching.

#24 4 years ago

Which lamp sockets are you using? I'm gearing up at some point to tackle my Paragon and need to order a bunch.

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from NJGecko:

Which lamp sockets are you using? I'm gearing up at some point to tackle my Paragon and need to order a bunch.

I use Marco #E120-127 for feature lamps, E120-176 staple down and E120-81 for GI. Coin door E120-162. Most of these are .99 if you buy 10 or more of each.

2 weeks later
#26 4 years ago

I'm off this week so I'm going to hopefully get the cab painted, atleast the base color. I started with sanding the cab and hitting it with some bondo and wood filler. The base for the backbox was loose so I pulled the nails and replaced them with 3 inch coated deck screws and added wood glue for even more grip. These pics are from saturday. Sunday I did a little more filling and sanding. Also started on the backbox.

Progress so far:

P7110178.jpg

P7110179.jpg

P7110180.jpg

P7110181.jpg

P7110184.jpg

P7110185.jpg

#28 4 years ago

Finally ready for primer. Did this yesterday. Went with white primer because I think that's what was used originally. Plus it's better for the yellow base color. It's hot as ballz in south Jersey today to I'm glad I got this done yesterday. The primer reveals alot of small imperfections that I will have to address and than re-spray the primer and then sand for painting.

P7180201.jpg

P7180202.jpg

P7180203.jpg

P7180204.jpg

P7180205.jpg

P7180206.jpg

P7180207.jpg

#29 4 years ago

Just let me know when I can buy it!

#30 4 years ago

OK. I am keeping on this. I do need some cards made for my Rolling Stones and Frontier. Will be talkin'...

#31 4 years ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

OK. I am keeping on this. I do need some cards made for my Rolling Stones and Frontier. Will be talkin'...

I'm guessing the cards are similar to Kiss and Star Trek?

#33 4 years ago

Nice job! Keep the pics coming!

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I'm guessing the cards are similar to Kiss and Star Trek?

Think so...Possibly Xenon but 1980's and 1979. Very similiar to Star Trek

#35 4 years ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

Think so...Possibly Xenon but 1980's and 1979. Very similiar to Star Trek

Xenon very different because transformer is in cab. Does the RS transformer schematic in the head have a -1 or -2 on the corner?

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

man that's looking good.

Quoted from atariaction:

Nice job! Keep the pics coming!

Thanks! will do.

3 weeks later
#37 4 years ago

Finally got some paint on the main cabinet. Been drying now for 3 days so I might do the orange stenciling around 6 or 7 pm today. Weather permitting. It's been slow going with the hot weather here. we are supposed to get down in the 80's at the end of the week so hopefully I can finish the stencils. This is Rustoleum Canary yellow from their Universal series paints that have the trigger spray can. I chose this because these cans have a nice fine and wide angle spray that makes for a nice even coat. This was about 5 light coats sprayed at 10-15 minute intervals.

I also have the coin door re-assembled. Inside parts re-plated either nickel or zinc depending on the part. The inner mounting plate, catch basket and cover was powder coated because these parts don't plate well. Besides they look much nicer. I chose a basic grey to blend in. The skin is a new reproduction. The bezel and related parts were sent to Mike Chestnut for chrome. The coin return flap is a Cliffy repro. Original un-chopped harness and new lamp sockets.

P8180226.jpg

P8180227.jpg

P8180218.jpg

P8180219.jpg

P8180220.jpg

P8180221.jpg

P8180222.jpg

P8180223.jpg

#38 4 years ago

The start and slam switches were rebuilt. Diodes replaced. Can add more pics until later

#39 4 years ago

It got too breezy here to attempt the stenciling plus they are calling for an early evening storm so I got to hold off for now. Going to finish up the back box primer. Back box was really rough. Looking at t closer after the first coat of primer, I found a lot ore area that needed to be filled.

P8180224.jpg

P8180225.jpg

P8080216.jpg

P8080217.jpg

#40 4 years ago

nice work, that door look pretty sweet.

#41 4 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

nice work, that door look pretty sweet.

Thanks, it's one of my favorite parts of doing a restore, even though we usually don't use them anymore

#42 4 years ago

Lovef2k,
Are you doing this stock... or going with custom mods? I went all out with custom mods for my B.ST... and of course the StarTrek : MirrorUniverse project.
I'm curious if this is for yourself; or as an eventual sale?

#43 4 years ago

what did the coin door look before? that face looks new.

#44 4 years ago

I like what you are doing here. In the aviation world we rebuild airplanes the same way making them better than new. We never make out on the investment, but it sure is satisfying to take a 50 year old airplane and put it back in the air again. Good job!

#45 4 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

what did the coin door look before? that face looks new.

Neo, sorry I didn't take before pics of the coin door. I should start doing that. I live near a industrial metal plating shop. They specialize in zinc and nickel plating. In 2009 a year after entering the hobby, I decided to restore a Xenon. I knew about the plating shop and I went in and asked the owner about replating. What it would take to make my parts look new,etc. If the metal isn't rusted or pitted, it can be dipped in a zinc stripping bath and re-plated. Old oxidation is removed and the parts look almost new again. Nickel plated parts need to be soaked for a week to remove original plating. Zinc only takes a few minutes to strip. Some parts that get really cruddy, such as drop target banks and inside cab parts need to be cleaned with acetone and sometimes a light scrub with fine steel wool or scotch brite.

As you know, Bally coin doors have that ugly inner plate. It was either galvinized or something. They don't take zinc without leaving spots all over, same goes for the big transformer mounting plate that are in early solid state Bally games where the transformer is mounted in the cab. The catch basket for the coin return is made of some cast, cheap metal and cannot be plated. After seeing some restos here on PS, pinball Mike D in particular, I saw some parts that were powder coated. I decided to do that with some of these difficult parts.

I tried bead blasting some parts to remove rust. After they were plated, they looked dull. You would think the oppsite, but blasting actually makes the surface of the metal rough, therefore a poor plating outcome. Here's a Flash Gordon I did last year...

P2141199.jpg

#46 4 years ago

OH, the face or skin, is a repro from Marco. I think they either have a different supplier, or the original supplier changed the metal because the skins I used to get from them did not look this nice. These actually have protective film on them and the old ones didn't.

#47 4 years ago

Where is the plastic cover over the on/off switch from in the above photo?

#48 4 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Where is the plastic cover over the on/off switch from in the above photo?

I don't understand your question. The cover is there and installed over the switch as per factory.

#49 4 years ago

Sorry I just re-read your question. Just woke up It's an original that I just cleaned up.

#50 4 years ago

looks great. wish they had faces with rounded corners.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 119.95
Boards
Allteksystems
From: $ 45.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 96.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
€ 3.95
Flipper Parts
Multigame
$ 7.65
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 155.00
$ 50.00
There are 89 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside