(Topic ID: 32107)

Pinballmike217's playfield ROTISSERIE plans

By Pinballmike217

11 years ago


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    #1 11 years ago

    4/13/11

    Since I'm new here I thought this might be useful to some of you. I didn't invent the rotisserie but I did design the first one made of black pipe so all the guys who don't have a welder could build one. The following is a reprint of a post I put on RGP. I'm sure some of you have seen it, if not, it might be of interest:

    I can't believe it's been six years since I came up with the first
    black pipe rotisserie. I've been doing a bunch of playfield swaps
    lately and decided to build a second rotisserie to simplify the swaps.
    The new design uses a single 3/4" upright instead of boxed 1/2"
    uprights. It's just as strong but uses way less parts. It took me an
    hour and ten minutes to build without rushing. Here's pictures:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/mike217/sets/72157626484933268/show/

    There is a 1/2" of side/side movement with a playfield mounted. If
    you can't live with that don't build this. You can make a sawhorse or
    tabletop version of the hub and axle assembly for about $50 which will
    be 100% rigid. I like this floorstanding design because it knocks down
    in less than a minute and takes up virtually no space. Total cost was
    $97.00 at Home Depot.

    Stock List:
    8 X 3/4" "T"s
    4 X 3/4" X10" black pipe
    2 X 3/4" X 36" black pipe
    2 X 1/2" X 4" black pipe
    2 X 1/2" X60" black pipe
    2 x 1/2" caps
    2 x 1/2" flanges
    48" perforated angle iron
    2 faucet handles with square centers
    4 X 1/4" X 1" thumb screws
    4 X 1/4" X 1" carriage bolts
    2 x 1/4" X 2 1/2" carriage bolts
    6 X 1/4" nuts, flat, and lockwashers

    If you don't have them, you will also need 4 x1" "C" clamps, a 1/4NC20
    tap, and a #7 or 13/64 drill bit.

    Instructions:

    Picture 1 - Stock
    Picture 2 - Four T's need to be drilled and tapped as shown for the
    feet. T's must be drilled laying flat. Two T's must be drilled and
    tapped for the axle assembly. These must be drilled from the top.
    Picture 3+4 - Assemble the faucet handles with the two long carriage
    bolts, washers, and nuts as shown and thread into T's. Thread the four
    thumbscrews anto the four T's that will be used as feet.
    Picture 5 - Lay out stock as shown. Thread the four 10" pipes into the
    four feet. Connect each pair into another "T" in the center. Make sure
    the feet are flat on the floor and the center "T" is pointing straight
    up.
    Picture 6 - Thread the two 36" uprights into the center "T"
    Picture 7 - Run the two 60" crossbeam pipes through the feet "T"s
    Picture 8 - Thread the axle "T" onto the upright, parallel to the
    crossbeams.
    Picture 9 - Insert the 4" pipe through the axle "T" and install a cap
    on the otside and a flange on the inside.
    Picture 10+11 - Cut the 48" perforated angle iron in half and secure
    each half to a flange with two 1" carriage bolts, washers, and nuts.
    Picture 12 - If you have any spraint paint lying around, use it.
    Picture 13 - This shows you how little space the rotisserie needs for
    storage.
    Picture 14+15 - Go restore something.

    Make sure you tighten all the black pipe super tight when
    assembling. Also, give the thumbscrews in the feet a good crank with a
    wrench once the crossbeams are positioned so they won't come loose.
    If you want to do a tabletop or sawhorse version, the axle
    assemblys stay the same. Just substitute everything below the axle "T"
    with a 3/4" X 12" black pipe and a 3/4" flange. Screw the flange onto
    the top of your table or sawhorse and get to work. Enjoy.

    Mike

    #2 11 years ago

    This is an excellent tutorial. I build a modified version by just screwing the 'supports' directly to some sawhorses I built. Super easy project and worked great.

    I added a link to the RGP post in the pinwiki a while back as well. Thanks for taking the time to put these instructions together.

    #3 11 years ago

    Very nice guide, looks great!

    Looking back, I wish I would have built one instead of buying it off of ebay. The pre-made ones are very low to the ground, and aren't exactly made ergonomics in mind during those long rebuild sessions.

    #4 11 years ago
    Quoted from williams:

    This is an excellent tutorial. I build a modified version by just screwing the 'supports' directly to some sawhorses I built. Super easy project and worked great.
    I added a link to the RGP post in the pinwiki a while back as well. Thanks for taking the time to put these instructions together.

    Thank you. I have no interest in building these for profit. The plans are just to easy to reproduce. If my design can help you out, go for it.

    #5 11 years ago

    I have the dumbest question. How do you tap holes for machine screws? do you need a tool or tools to do this? if you're drilling for a specific screw size, do you use the same size drill bit as the screw you want to insert, or slightly smaller because tapping it will widen it?

    #6 11 years ago
    Quoted from Richthofen:

    I have the dumbest question. How do you tap holes for machine screws? do you need a tool or tools to do this? if you're drilling for a specific screw size, do you use the same size drill bit as the screw you want to insert, or slightly smaller because tapping it will widen it?

    You can buy a cheap tap at Harbor Freight. Or you can just use your power drill and make the hole slightly smaller than your screw - black pipe metal is soft. First option is probably "better", second option should work just fine.

    #7 11 years ago
    Quoted from Richthofen:

    I have the dumbest question. How do you tap holes for machine screws? do you need a tool or tools to do this? if you're drilling for a specific screw size, do you use the same size drill bit as the screw you want to insert, or slightly smaller because tapping it will widen it?

    Not a dumb question at all if you've never done it before. Taps come in different sizes for all different size screws. You can buy them individually at Home Depot. You have to drill a hole with the correct size drill first for the tap to work properly. The tap is like a sharp corkscrew that cuts threads into the wall of the hole you drilled. You can use a small adjustable wrench as a handle if you don't want to buy the correct handle for it. Just dip it in oil, thread it into the pilot hole, and crank away. The first few turns of the tap are tapered so it easily works its way into the hole. After it's through just back it out and your freshly cut threads are ready for the screw or bolt to go in.

    #9 11 years ago

    Very nice setup!

    #10 11 years ago

    LOL, that is funny. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I just joined Pinside today so it's all new to me here. I built the first black pipe rotisserie in May 2005:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/mike217/sets/72157616252440925/show/
    It's not as simple as the newer one. but it worked well. The newer version is nicer because there are less parts and it takes up almost no space when it's knocked down. It's great to have two if you are swapping parts from one playfield to another.

    #11 11 years ago

    Thanks Mike! I saw this on RGP sometime back and built one using your list of material and plans. Best rotisserie I've had the pleasure of using.

    #12 11 years ago
    Quoted from Half_Life:

    Thanks Mike! I saw this on RGP sometime back and built one using your list of material and plans. Best rotisserie I've had the pleasure of using.

    Thanks very much, I'm glad you're getting some good use out of it.

    #13 11 years ago

    Same here, I built one using your list from RGP and it works very well, thanks for posting and welcome to Pinside! I'm using it for my first playfield swap, a FH swap.

    #14 11 years ago
    Quoted from Dewey68:

    Same here, I built one using your list from RGP and it works very well, thanks for posting and welcome to Pinside! I'm using it for my first playfield swap, a FH swap.

    Thanks for the welcome, Dewey, I'm not missing RGP at all. Good luck with the swap!

    1 week later
    #15 11 years ago

    I just built this rotisserie. Thanks mike! Parts are around $125, plus I had to buy the tap and #7 drill bit.

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    #16 11 years ago

    I gotta build me one of them, very cool.

    Great concept, mike.

    Now put some wheels (locking casters) on that thing and I think it would be perfect.

    #17 11 years ago

    Used your idea. Works great. Be sure to use a pipe wrench and tighten everything really good. If you're not 200+ lbs invite someone over for a beer to torque that thing real good and you will have next to no sway at all.

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    #18 11 years ago
    Quoted from Prmailers:

    I gotta build me one of them, very cool.
    Great concept, mike.
    Now put some wheels (locking casters) on that thing and I think it would be perfect.

    Easy enough, will cost just a couple more bucks. I just use two three wheeled casters on one end to wheel it around if I need to move it, then pop them out when it's where I want it.

    Mike

    #19 11 years ago
    Quoted from Richthofen:

    I just built this rotisserie. Thanks mike! Parts are around $125, plus I had to buy the tap and #7 drill bit.

    Quoted from tompallc:

    Used your idea. Works great. Be sure to use a pipe wrench and tighten everything really good. If you're not 200+ lbs invite someone over for a beer to torque that thing real good and you will have next to no sway at all.

    Thanks, guys. I enjoy seeing people put may plans to work. I can't even remember how I worked on playfields before I built this. Enjoy,

    Mike

    1 month later
    #20 11 years ago

    I joined Pinside just so I could publicly thank Mike for sharing his design. It's very simple to make, it took me longer to buy the parts than it did to put it together. Thanks Mike!

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    #21 11 years ago

    I did a slight variation on Mike's theme over the weekend.

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    #22 11 years ago
    Quoted from johninc:

    I joined Pinside just so I could publicly thank Mike for sharing his design. It's very simple to make, it took me longer to buy the parts than it did to put it together. Thanks Mike!

    Wow, that's really nice of you. A "thank you" goes a very long way. I appreciate that. Enjoy your new rotisserie.

    Mike

    1 month later
    #23 11 years ago

    I wanted to thank Mike and everyone in this thread with the rotisserie instructions and ideas!

    I made the saw horse / table top version yesterday and wanted to share pictures and costs.

    Everything was purchased at Menards, they were out of the black pipe so I went with the galvanized steel which was a bit cheaper - except the T connector I used the black ones.

    Part list and costs:

    2 Angled irons 2 ft long - $5.63 each
    2 12" galvanized steel pipe - $1.89 each
    2 Caps - $0.69 each
    2 1/4" by 3" eyebolt with nut - $0.49 each
    2 1/2" by 5" pipe - $0.79 each
    4 flanges - $2.96 each
    2 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 T connectors $2.49 each

    I also bought the 1/4 tap with bit for $5.28 and a tap wrench for $3.98

    total cost at Menards - $45.06 plus tax

    Parts I had on hand were the saw horse, scrap 2X4, 2 C clamps and 1 and 1/2 carriage bolts and nuts (which are longer than necessary if buying go with 1"

    Also the 5" pipe is too long but they didnt have and 4" if you can find 4" that is the correct size.

    Also, I was able to use bolts to attach the pf to the angle iron, if it doesn't workout then you'll need 4 more clamps

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    #24 11 years ago

    Nice.

    I like the portability factor.

    #25 11 years ago

    I built this last week after doing 2 restores without a rotisserie.
    So much easier and enjoyable to work on playfields with this.
    All I can say is Thank You Mike!

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    #26 11 years ago

    Is there any reason to not go with galvanized pipe instead of black pipe? Galvanized is a bit cheaper.

    #27 11 years ago

    Mount your legs on plywood then put on sawhorses or folding stand.
    This gives you something to put your tools on and its more mobile.

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    #28 11 years ago

    I don't see what keeps vertical pipes on the black pipe design from tilting / falling over?

    #29 11 years ago

    I like the plywood below! Was thinking the same thing last night as I kept setting tools on the saw horse. Think I will slide a sheet down there

    #30 11 years ago
    Quoted from RacerRik:

    I don't see what keeps vertical pipes on the black pipe design from tilting / falling over?

    They are screwed into the T's in the base.

    #31 11 years ago
    Quoted from loren3233:

    Is there any reason to not go with galvanized pipe instead of black pipe? Galvanized is a bit cheaper.

    No, galvanized is fine. Black has usually been cheaper.

    #32 11 years ago
    Quoted from pinwillie:

    Mount your legs on plywood then put on sawhorses or folding stand.
    This gives you something to put your tools on and its more mobile.

    That is a very slick way to transport a populated playfield, nice job!

    #33 11 years ago

    Galvanized was more expensive when I bought the parts for mine...

    #34 11 years ago
    Quoted from SealClubber:

    They are screwed into the T's in the base.

    Which will be fine to keep them from moving say front to rear. What keeps them from moving toward or away from the opposite vertical pipe. It seems like the T's could rotate and the whole thing fall over. Not a pretty thing when your $500 (or more) playfield comes crashing down.

    #35 11 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballmike217:

    Make sure you tighten all the black pipe super tight when
    assembling.

    Ah - now I see! Tighten the pipe super tight so the T's can't rotate without going beyond super tight on one side...

    It would be nice to see something a bit more positive to prevent it from racking and falling down.

    #36 11 years ago

    Just built mine today. Thanks Mike!!

    #37 11 years ago
    Quoted from RacerRik:

    Which will be fine to keep them from moving say front to rear. What keeps them from moving toward or away from the opposite vertical pipe. It seems like the T's could rotate and the whole thing fall over. Not a pretty thing when your $500 (or more) playfield comes crashing down.

    That should read "flanges" not "T's" The flanges have four screw holes that can be securely screwed down.

    4 months later
    #38 10 years ago

    Thanks for posting this build! It was easy and works awesome. Amazing how less intimidating the beast looks out of the cabinet and on the rotisserie.

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    4 months later
    #39 10 years ago

    Mike,
    thanks for the recipe. It was quick to build and easy to use.

    --Jeff
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    3 weeks later
    #40 10 years ago
    Quoted from way2wyrd:

    Mike,
    thanks for the recipe. It was quick to build and easy to use.
    --Jeff

    2013-11-23 19.25.26.jpg 2.5 MB

    Thanks for posting, looks great!

    1 week later
    #41 10 years ago
    Quoted from RacerRik:

    Ah - now I see! Tighten the pipe super tight so the T's can't rotate without going beyond super tight on one side...
    It would be nice to see something a bit more positive to prevent it from racking and falling down.

    You could always just drill holes thru the tee & pipe, then tap the hole & thread a bolt into it. No issue.

    1 month later
    #42 10 years ago

    I went for the sawhorse version.
    Used a 1/2" Union to allow for swivel. I like it, no drilling, just twist the lock nut on the union to lock in the position.

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    3 years later
    #43 7 years ago

    Mike,

    Can't thank you enough for sharing your wisdom on this thing. Making a pinside donation on your behalf sir. This thing is great!

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    1 week later
    #44 7 years ago
    Quoted from Cserold:

    Mike,
    Can't thank you enough for sharing your wisdom on this thing. Making a pinside donation on your behalf sir. This thing is great!

    Thanks very much for the picture, I'm glad I could help. I'm doing a Waterworld playfield swap right now myself so here's a picture of my two rotisseries. The yellow one is my first design and the red one is the current design that it evolved into. Enjoy.

    Mike

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    2 years later
    #45 4 years ago

    Following this old thread

    1 month later
    #46 4 years ago
    Quoted from KozMckPinball:

    Following this old thread

    Cool, I keep my Flickr account active so people will always have access to the picture slideshow of the build. It now has over 10,000 hits so there must be a lot of these rotisseries out there! Enjoy yours.

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