(Topic ID: 237830)

Just got pinball not starting


By marioc

75 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 52 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 days ago by D-Gottlieb
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 75 days ago

Is transformer wiring correct, the commion power is going to transformer but the black power cord wire is going to a 5 a fuse block shouldn’t black cord wire go to transformer, on the transformer their is a vacant spot that says high, machine has been in somebody’s basement and they had no knowledge of machine or history but it does not look like original cord

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#2 75 days ago

Could you tell us which Gottlieb pin this is.

#3 75 days ago

Before you dig into wiring you know nothing about, please tell us which machine it is.

#4 75 days ago

Majorettes

#5 75 days ago

Congratulations, such a fun game.

#6 75 days ago

Multimeter?

#7 75 days ago
Quoted from marioc:

vacant spot that says high

Either or on "high" tap or "normal" and it's on normal. And it does need to go thru the fuse. That will keep a surge from frying something, like the transformer.

#8 75 days ago

Ok. This is a little scary, since it sounds like this is your first machine.

The common (white) wire should go straight to the transformer. The hot (black) wire should go to the fuse block, then POSSIBLY a switch, then back to the transformer.

The fuse will protect the machine in case the transformer shorts.

The word High on the transformer refers to a tap setting. If your house power is low(very unlikely) then you move the hot wire to the high tap to get the proper voltages out of the transformer.

Keep asking questions, people here will try to help. BTW, where are you located? There may be a fellow Pinside who’s close by and can lend a hand.

#9 75 days ago

Yes I have multimeters I am a hvac tech I have 110 c when plugged into outlet but no voltage anywhere else I thing somebody must have wires power cord wrong

#10 75 days ago

I am in Toronto canada

#11 75 days ago

Did you check the fuse block in the front?

#12 75 days ago

Did you check the fuse? Also, with this vintage game, if the fuse is good, push the flipper buttons and see if the go (general illumination) lights come on.

Take the back off of the head and roll the credit unit to show a few games through the window on the Backglass and try to start a game.

Report back

#13 75 days ago

Ok, verify high voltage going into the transformer then check the low voltage.

#14 75 days ago

Checked fuses all good, tried with flipper , I don’t have 110 at transformer

#15 75 days ago

Let’s eliminate the cord as the problem. You should see 110vac at the common wire on the transformer and either side of the fuse block.

If the cord is good, follow the wire from the fuse block and see where it goes. Unless you have a sniffer, this will likely be hand over fist following.

Basically, you want to follow the hot wire to see where you lose power.

#16 75 days ago

If it didn't come with a schematic, I'd recommend that you purchase one from pbresource.com. In this case, you probably don't need it (you can already narrow down the problem to a small number of connections), but you will in the future. I also recommend reading http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm for an overview of the parts of EM pinball and some troubleshooting ideas.

Have you checked continuity on the cord? It's possible the cord is damaged.

It's hard to tell from the photos, what is connected to the other end of the fuse? Power switch? The transformer?

#17 75 days ago

Are the bottom 2 wires the primary voltage 110v

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#18 75 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Let’s eliminate the cord as the problem. You should see 110vac at the common wire on the transformer and either side of the fuse block.
If the cord is good, follow the wire from the fuse block and see where it goes. Unless you have a sniffer, this will likely be hand over fist following.
Basically, you want to follow the hot wire to see where you lose power.

hey thanks for your help i followed wire to front on machine will send pic i have 11o voltage at this spot

#19 75 days ago

I don’t think so. I think the hot wire is red with the yellow stripe connected to the tap that says normal.

#20 75 days ago
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#21 75 days ago

Then wires go to door

#22 75 days ago

Unplug the machine, and use the Multimeter's Ohm setting to trace out the 120V wiring.

Like someone else mentioned, getting a schematic would be the 1st thing I'd do.

#23 75 days ago

Wire from fuse terminal goes to door I have 110 volt at white and black wire the two other wire do u bypass any wire , their is a oeange and blue wire that goes in coin mechanism, I tried coins not working can I bypass any of the wires?

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#24 75 days ago
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#25 75 days ago

Looks like a fun game. Its has good ratings. I am about a year into pinball myself and you found the right place for your new hobby. You will learn a bunch here. I think one of the best things I did was to read and try to understand the wiring diagram for your game. It takes practice but you'll get it. And remember,,,,, No WD40

#26 75 days ago

I don’t think I can help any further without a schematic. Since you know the issue is on the coin door, I would clean the Jones plug and the slam switch contacts, then see if you can follow the power back toward the transformer. Clean the stuff with the machine unplugged since you’re searching for 115 volts.

#27 75 days ago

http://pbresource.com

Order schematic.

http://pbresource.com/tools.html

Recommend order L contact adjuster (you will need eventually)

Also on that same page recommend getting new power cord if your cord is frayed and old or prongs falling out etc.

Recommend reading this:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide

#28 75 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I don’t think I can help any further without a schematic. Since you know the issue is on the coin door, I would clean the Jones plug and the slam switch contacts, then see if you can follow the power back toward the transformer. Clean the stuff with the machine unplugged since you’re searching for 115 volts.

Ditto ^^^. Hard to help w/o a schematic, and I can't seem to find one out on the net, so you will likely have to buy. I think PBResource owns the Gottlieb rights and I suspect that's why one can't be found 'out in the wild'.

If you order, might be a good time to buy a fuse kit so if you plan on keeping, you'll at least be assured the correct fuses are installed, or at least have a spare set if needed.

Goes w/o saying...make sure the 120V is isolated from the door. I don't recall when manufactures' were required to ground metal parts (like the coin door, legs, etc.). Some of the 'old timers' will likely chime in to help you sort things out. A lot of smart guys here w/a ton experience.

#29 75 days ago

Gottlieb games don lit up when plugged in.
Try to start a game, then it will try to reset en lights will come on.
There are two separate hold relays: 110 V and 30 V which should get pulled in at the start.

#30 75 days ago

Check the bounce off contact at the bottom and the slam switch on the door, be carefull with that one, 110 V on the door contact!

#31 75 days ago

On a similar topic:

During moving an EM pin if it was stood on its end, small pieces like, coins, screws, or bits of broken plastic, can fall into switch stacks. This will cause problems. Unplugging and re-plugging in the Jones connectors can also create problems. When the pin is on a dolly and it is tilted back up with a hard hit, switch stacks can move out of position. Old solder connections can also fail, with a sudden jolt.

#32 74 days ago

thanks going to order schematic ,which relays start the machine i will post pics from phone the power cord is no good but i am using my test cord that i use to start furnace and ac motors are pinball machines ground sensitve?, i have 110 volt at the door switch and does the two wires at coin mechansim can i bypass them

#33 74 days ago

I know it’s missing the tilt thing which way should this be up or down?

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#34 74 days ago

black and white wire were on a door switch and red and blue to coin slot mechanism 110 volt at white wire I tried putting black and white together and red and blue and tried with one off and other on no luck

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#35 74 days ago

The 4 wires goes to this junction box only white again is power at this box tried touching flipper relay when I bypassed the door wires

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#36 74 days ago

What is this I have 110 volt to this also

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#37 74 days ago

Maybe I have to bang on wood I have fixed many things with a tap of screw driver and sometimes even a kick lol

#38 74 days ago

, no luck i tried jumper door switch and start switch nothing going on wont start , would love to hear a bell or see a light, cant sleep

#39 74 days ago

Hang in there, it will be easier w/a schematic.

One thing I always look for, and I saw some in your pictures...anything that looks like someone fooled around w/it. Wires that just don't seem to belong there, things taped up, odd soldering connections...all point to someone tinkering around the machine. Your HVAC experience (the electrical part) should really help you out once you can really start digging into it.

#40 74 days ago

Well I touched this switch lights came on and bells and lovely noise but the score counter, ball knockouts and bells just kept going flippers work bumpers work but machine just keeps going until I take off jumper wires to door switch

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#41 74 days ago

That could be the power hold relay as there are only a couple of wires running to it. By you making it close, the machine is getting power to the various circuits. Once you fix the start issue/s, that should come on automatically But if you are shorting the coin drop switch in the door, the machine will continually just keep firing away. That coin door switch should open and close the once just as if you've dropped a coin in.

Out of interest, did the score reels reset to zero as they form part of your start circuit.

I would advise you to wait until your schematic arrives, get the coin door wiring checked and rectified before you go further. The classic mistake is to try tweaking things and likely adding to your problems. One step at a time is a safe path to walk when you aren't that familiar with EMs.

Lastly, invest in a new mains power lead and run an earth wire to the coin door, and the frame that holds the lock-down bar, and flipper link rods. Oh, and check that the insulating 'fish-paper' on the coin door start switch is sound or you run the risk of a mains voltage shock. Personally, I replace it with a new one and also remove one thin spacer from the switch stack to allow for the insertion of a piece of flexible plastic to the same size of the switch blades with 2 holes drilled to go through the spacer fixing pins so that there is no possibility, once reassembled, of a shock should that fish paper ever fail. Just my preference, as my machines are on 240v mains.

#42 74 days ago

Thanks so the door switch wires I should just put together then release

#43 73 days ago

the machine just keeps running i have ordered schematic and lights and rubber, could a contact be stuck close in the reels it wont reset, it only keeps running when i put the black and white door switch wires together the red amd blue wires to coin mechanism doesnt seem to do anything, i am being a bit impatient but i am a nut when i cant figure things out but i will and thanks to this great forum, i read that it could be the reset relay i tried playting with that machine just keeps running and score reels just keep going

#44 73 days ago

Are all the score reels spinning or do some of them stop at zero?

#45 73 days ago

Have you tried putting the appropriate coin in for a credit?

#46 73 days ago
Quoted from PSchwisow:

Are all the score reels spinning or do some of them stop at zero?

they just keep spinning

#47 73 days ago
Quoted from Mank:

Have you tried putting the appropriate coin in for a credit?

tried bypassing wire to coin mechanism

#48 73 days ago
Quoted from marioc:

they just keep spinning

all of the reals just keep going forever none of them stopo at zero

1 month later
#49 24 days ago

well thanks for all your guys help and info i have most things sorted out, my right flipper is weaker i tried playing with my swithces i was thinking about getting new solenoid, i read many threads about this problem, was going to swap out solenoid , from the other side, but right flipper is working great dont wont to mess with it,would taking apart solenoid and cleaning help

#50 24 days ago
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