(Topic ID: 44964)

Just got my first EM, Chicago Coin's "Juke Box", restoration begins

By Decat

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 37 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by PM_Jeremy
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 11 years ago

I picked up Chicago Coin's "Juke Box" from a friend of mine for $0 on March 22,2013. It has a few spots of water damage to wood and lots of stuff is not working, but all the hard to find parts (plastics) are there and everything is almost working, haha.

After reading a few threads here in the EM hangout area I quickly learned that I should familiarize myself with pinrepair.com so I went ahead and read all 4 parts of his thorough EM repair write-up. Very nicely written and great photos and videos! I have already started ordering all tools and various parts that I know I do not already have, and I have familiarized myself with all the various components he wrote about my particular machine and I feel very confident that I can get this machine up and running better then ever very quickly.

I however know I will inevitably have some questions that I might not be able to find the answers to so I will try and keep all those questions and posts here in this thread.

I have already restored and customized my Bally "Popeye" machine to be better than new, faster then ever and more reliable then any pin I have played, and I am looking forward to making this the best playing "Juke Box" out there.

Here are some photos of the good and the bad for now.

Loaded in truck:
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This is how I used rollers to get it down off the truck and inside the house all by myself:
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Finally inside:
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Very dirty:
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#2 11 years ago

Cabinet sides and back are not too bad, water damage only on front and bottom of front cabinet, the rest of the cabinet looks great:
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Playfield has lots of built up dirt on it:
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Looks like all sockets work:
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Testing out some LEDs in the upper left player one score reel area:
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#3 11 years ago

Can you tell which side I have started cleaning?
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In the Backbox:
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Under the playfield looks pretty good:
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#4 11 years ago

This is by far the worst part of the machine. I think I can save the playfield, but I am going to have to cut off this rotting wood and tie in a new piece of plywood to go under the apron cover. Once it is done you will not be able to see it unless you lift the playfield:

Water damage:
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#5 11 years ago

I agree you should do something about the rotten parts. If the plywood is just delaminated(left side), you could carefully reglue the layers. I have done this before. I use a small piece of card stock to get glue in there and then clamp/blocks. There are products that are used to replace rotten wood, or maybe epoxy would work. Cutting out the rotten part all the way thru the field and scabbing in a new piece of wood would be a last resort for me. Rest of the game looks pretty good. If you want to be thorough with the cleaning, I would remove everything from the top, unscrew any switches that stick thru, etc.

Good Luck, thanks for sharing the pics!

#6 11 years ago

Aside from the rotton wood the paint on the playfield is in great shape.

You got it for a great price!

#7 11 years ago

I might try gluing and clamping, but it is pretty bad. Pieces of wood fall out from that area every time I lift the playfield, and the shooter lane is well, terrible. I would rather shave down a new piece of wood I think.

Two questions for now:

-what type and where can I purchase replacement flippers? Would either of these work?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2311
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ACNQLV2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3

-I read on pinrepair.com that I should replace all coil sleeves with new ones on the flippers, pop bumpers, and kickers, but should I replace or change sleeves in the coils on the step up/down coils or the scoring reels and stepped units? image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpgimage.jpg

#8 11 years ago

Pick up some of this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-16-oz-PC-Petrifier-Wood-Hardener-164440/100649629

It will stabilize the rotten wood on your playfield.

I would soak the rotten areas with this wood petrifier, then lay saran wrap over the wood and clamp two flat boards (one on top and one below) over the damaged area to flatten the wood.

Once this has dried you will be able to start repairing.

Call or email PBR regarding your flippers, they may have what you need or can supply a sub (Gottlieb flippers of the same era will work. When you purchase a rubber kit you will need to get the right flipper rubbers to fit what you use for flippers)

#9 11 years ago
Quoted from jkmboler:

Call or email PBR regarding your flippers, they may have what you need

PBR has the correct Chicago Coin Flipper Bats, Flipper Buttons, and Coin Labels if you need them.

As far as the Playfield I would try to fill/repair first and cut only as a last resort.

Have fun restoring it.

Ken

#10 11 years ago

To make the game "snappier" I would definitely replace the flipper, slings and pop bumper sleeves to nylon if not already done.

It doesn't hurt to change all the other sleeves but you don't have to, no effect on game play.

#11 11 years ago

All good advice above. As for the coils themselves, unless they are damaged (improper resistance, burned/melted) they should be fine. You can also look into the 'high tap' on the transformer-if that game has that option (I'n familar with CC)

#12 11 years ago

So after using the wood hardener, I guess bondo would be the best filler? I don't think any wood filler would be strong enough right? I need to screw into it once done.

#13 11 years ago

You have not chosen the easiest project for your first EM! Congrats!
I do not remember having ever played this one.

#14 11 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

You can also look into the 'high tap' on the transformer-if that game has that option (I'n familar with CC)

CCM def has a high tap option off the transformer.

--Jeff

#15 11 years ago
Quoted from Decat:

This is by far the worst part of the machine.

Nice machine. A 4 player version of a CCM Sound Stage.
As far as rot goes i would use a product that has flexible properties.
Lifting the playfield in the apron area will flex a little IMO so i would use a product like this > http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/landl.html
Wood is flexible and anything you add to it or on it should be flexible as well. More expensive, sure, but most good things are. You might as well buy the best. Plus you can use fiberglass cloth to rebuild some areas.
If you send them jpeg photos of the damage they can guide you to the best repair methods.
The also sell an epoxy filler to finish off the repair too.
I have not used said product ,but would if i came across you situation.

#16 11 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Nice machine. A 4 player version of a CCM Sound Stage.
As far as rot goes i would use a product that has flexible properties.
Lifting the playfield in the apron area will flex a little IMO so i would use a product like this > http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/landl.html
Wood is flexible and anything you add to it or on it should be flexible as well. More expensive, sure, but most good things are. You might as well buy the best. Plus you can use fiberglass cloth to rebuild some areas.
If you send them jpeg photos of the damage they can guide you to the best repair methods.
The also sell an epoxy filler to finish off the repair too.
I have not used said product ,but would if i came across you situation.

That looks very promising! I will order this today. All in all I think it will be around $70-80 before shipping for everything I will need to repair the wood with their products, not too bad considering this stuff sounds like the best quality available. Thanks for the info!!!!!

#17 11 years ago
Quoted from Decat:

So after using the wood hardener, I guess bondo would be the best filler? I don't think any wood filler would be strong enough right? I need to screw into it once done.

After stabilizing the wood with wood hardener, rotdoctor epoxy sounds like a good choice.

Most epoxy repairs fail due to the difference in materials (wood is softer and flexible, most epoxies harden glass hard).

#18 11 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Lifting the playfield in the apron area will flex a little IMO so i would use a product like this > http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/landl.html

Looks like Pin-it may have found a great product. I would try this out myself on a Playfield or other area if needed, but been lucky so far and have just dealt with Cabinet bottoms that I just replace rather than repair.

Ken

#19 11 years ago
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:

Looks like Pin-it may have found a great product. I would try this out myself on a Playfield or other area if needed, but been lucky so far and have just dealt with Cabinet bottoms that I just replace rather than repair.
Ken

I found those products much cheaper here and ordered from this site instead:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do

#20 11 years ago

Those flippers are easily purchased from Steve Young's Pinball Resource. CC and Bally used the same flippers in that era. Interesting how different the 4 player Juke Box is from the 2 player Sound Stage. I have a Sound Stage and enjoy it quite often. Simple and fun. Best of luck on your restoration.

#21 11 years ago
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:

Looks like Pin-it may have found a great product. I would try this out myself on a Playfield or other area if needed, but been lucky so far and have just dealt with Cabinet bottoms that I just replace rather than repair.
Ken

I will need to replace the bottom of the cabinet as well. What do you use? 1/2" or 3/4" plywood?

#22 11 years ago
Quoted from IntoPinball:

Those flippers are easily purchased from Steve Young's Pinball Resource. CC and Bally used the same flippers in that era. Interesting how different the 4 player Juke Box is from the 2 player Sound Stage. I have a Sound Stage and enjoy it quite often. Simple and fun. Best of luck on your restoration.

Thanks for the advice I appreciate it. I will contact them after Easter.

#23 11 years ago

most bottom panels are 1/4"

#24 11 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

most bottom panels are 1/4"

Thanks. Yeah I noticed that it had metal under it already, so I was doubting that the 1/4" was original, so that 1/4" wood and thin metal are originals possibly?

#25 11 years ago

sounds right, they called that a 'kick plate' for obvious reasons......

#26 11 years ago
Quoted from Decat:

I will need to replace the bottom of the cabinet as well. What do you use? 1/2" or 3/4" plywood?

I used 1/2" inch when I replaced my Gulfstream bottom Cabinet but that was over kill. 1/4" is the way to go.

Ken

1 week later
#27 11 years ago

Just rebuilt my first stepper unit.

Before:

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After:
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#28 11 years ago

Next one

Before:
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After:
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Before:
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After:
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#29 11 years ago

Last one for now.
Before:
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After:
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#30 11 years ago

I also got the wood rot repair kit, should be better then ever soon:

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#31 11 years ago

nice work. Those units work so much better when cleaned up like that

-Jeff

#32 11 years ago

You prob. already figured this, but on that match unit, looks like the 5 contacts are burnt from the spider making poor contact (out of alignment) so I would try to adjust that to have the contact sit on the best part of the remaining contact.

#33 11 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

You prob. already figured this, but on that match unit, looks like the 5 contacts are burnt from the spider making poor contact (out of alignment) so I would try to adjust that to have the contact sit on the best part of the remaining contact.

Yes you are right. I have it corrected now, I hope

#34 11 years ago

Old stock lighting:

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New Coin Taker LED lighting:

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#35 11 years ago

Video of the new backbox lighting:

4 months later
#36 10 years ago

Hi
I'm am thinking of buying one of these machines myself(first pinball machine) the machine it self presents really well all lights work play field and cabinet is in excellent condition and was working perfectly but has not been used for a couple of years and now it wont eject the ball out.Do you think this should be an easy fix any thoughts would be appreciated.
Cheers

#37 10 years ago

Now you need to find a NSM Century 21 Jukebox!

Century21-Band.jpgCentury21-Band.jpg
Juke boxes are my other big hobby ,can you tell?

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