(Topic ID: 242043)

Just got a Williams Tradewinds, been sitting 20yrs, where to start?

By gearbutt

4 years ago


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  • 23 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by jrpinball
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#17 4 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

That’s a different point that I didn’t want to get into. I have used the PBR files before but they’re more like nail files then the harsh metal files I see most people go use when they hear “file the contact” so I try to not even mention it at all. But yes, those PBR ones are specifically made for the purpose of gently cleaning contacts. And if you’re careful you can use others.
Blue sparks:
Those are normal in most EMs. It’s because the contacts are dirty, they spark a little bit. It’s harmless but that’s all the black dust you see stuck over everything. If you use the 800/1000 grit sand paper or the special contact file from PBR the sparks will stop. And the game will stay cleaner.

You'll never get all the sparks on an EM to stop. It's not the condition of the switch contacts that causes that.

Mostly agree on cleaning the contacts but some like flipper button switches will require a metal file. Just don't go nuts with the it.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from gearbutt:

I meant the actual LOCK coil that is always on when the game is on, from what I've read. The locked on coil as in my pop bumper relay not undoing when it gets triggered, that is another thing entirely. I've seen it hit 90F before I reset it, but I still can't manage to get it to stop staying in the triggered stage, although the other one that was doing the same eventually stopped on its own.
I assume these contacts are a lot like cleaning slot car contacts, so I'll proceed as best I can. I'll keep you guys updated, you've all been incredibly helpful so far, and I'm eager to just play a game without worrying about fire from a stuck pop bumper.

Lock relay coils are extremely high resistance and are designed to be on for long periods of time. They will get warm. The wrapper will get toasty. Overall, I wouldn't worry about coil temps. And while you don't want them lo lock on for long periods a pop bumper coil will not melt in 5 to 10 seconds. It takes a bit more than that.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

This is something I had wondered myself.
Is there a limit to how long EMs can safely sit? I mean if the game sat in an arcade in the 70’s for 12 hours or more, then does that mean that is still acceptable? I worry that with age the lock relay coils may be more susceptible to burning up.

Well, over time, sure, but not just in a one day setting, they won't burn up.

Now, a bumper coil or some other coil with a lower resistance will go a lot faster, but I've had them locked on for a minute or so and they're fine. I am not about to try and see how long it takes, but I know that if they lock on for 30 seconds or so, they'll generally survive. The sleeve might eventually melt and you wouldn't be able to get it out of the coil. In the old days with metal sleeves they were hard to get out anyway. I've thrown out coils that were ok because the metal sleeve was dicey and removing it will sometimes destroy the windings. They just come apart.

Lock coils are really high resistance and are designed to do what they do. They'll got toasty and the wrapper will eventually get smoked but they will last a long time.

The designers back then knew that the games were going to sit on for long times so they put in a coil that could handle it.

If you turned a game on and left it on for 24 hours and came back, the lock coil would be pretty warm but it would still be functional and would continue to be for quite awhile.

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