Hope this helps. I've always wanted one myself

Be careful if it has a new rectifier board there is an extra 5 volt pin and you can plug that J1 top left in wrong. Let me know if you need more detail.

Only if you have a brand new rectifier board

One pin showing if it's a new rectifier board. New boards have 9 pins and you have a 8 pin molex. Connect it all the way to the left with that extra pin to the right like my pic. If not you will send 5v to your return buss.

Wow someone spruced that one up. Very nice. Love me some inline drops. Your wife has good taste. Glad you got it working and hope she beats your score. My wife has been kicking my butt on every pin we have played this week.

Well damn now the fun begins. Maybe a TIP or diode got ruined? Go online and see what controls that coil and start measuring with your multimeter. Or when you turn it off then on and if they reset then possible just a switch adjustment.

I think you can jumper across coil lugs to make it activate and reset coils as well. Also if flippers and bumpers don't work either it's the fuse under the playfield

Any luck?

Run a diagnostic check of the solenoids. Leave drop targets down. With the game powered on push the red button on the inside top of the coin door. 1st push of the button is lights, 2nd is displays and the 3rd push is your solenoids. When #9 shows in the displays, the drop targets should reset. If not, the solenoid isn't working. Lift PF and look at the solenoid to see it looks burnt. Manually raise the drops by moving the lever above the coil to make sure it's not a mechanical issue. With the game powered on check DC voltage on the yellow wire with a multimeter. Should be around 43VDC. Let us know.

I'm still thinking diode on coil or TIP on solenoid board or both. You can check both easily with a meter and both cost pennies.

Run the diagnostic test on the solenoids with the backglass removed so you can watch your solenoid board. On that Alltek, as each solenoid fires the corresponding LED by each transistor will light green if functioning properly. See if any light up red, most likely the Q16 will.

The diode on that coil is shorted out going by your readings of it.

That is actually the correct colors you should see. Green is for continuous coils, like the lock out coil. Red is for momentary coils like pop bumpers. Did any flash really fast, the Q16 controls your drop target reset coil?

Tip is a series of transistors. Testing found here. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29

NPN TO-220 package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)

Place the black lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
Probe each of the flanking legs with the red lead
.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
Probe the center leg with the red lead
A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.

PNP TO-218 and TO-220 package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)

Place the red lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
Probe each of the flanking legs with the black lead
.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
Probe the center leg with the black lead
A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.

Power off, and out of circuit. Clip at least one leg when you check.

LTG : )

I highly doubt the issue is the solenoid board. Those Alltek boards are rock solid, been using them for years. The way it works is that the solenoids get power continuously. The SDB (solenoid driver board) grounds each coil when the MPU signals it.

It looks like the connectors were replaced. Issue most likely is a bad connector pin re-crimp or wiring.

If the LED's on the SDB flash red quickly, it usually means a shorted coil.

I'll look at the schematic's for continuity tests.

If that J1 got plugged in wrong then 5v went to the buss return I believe and that's why the protection from the fusses blew and probably that diode or possibly the coil as well if they are old.

Make sure your meter has a diode setting like mine and then make sure black is on banded side. That's that grey band I circled

IMG_1948 (resized).JPG

IMG_1949 (resized).JPG

Diodes only read one way when good at.6 if you swap the red and black you shouldn't get .6

People should clip that extra leg. Hell I should go through and clip that extra leg in case I ever sell or forget myself

It's the only way to know. Start there you could de solder the coil lugs and unwrap it. You could start with the TIP that controls that coil operation then the diode then the coil. I have extra diodes and TIP if you need and would be faster I could put them in a regular envelope and mail them to you. Either way you have to start somewhere to see what all got damaged. I'm hoping just that diode they can be sensitive but that's why they are there

Testing a TIP

IMG_1950 (resized).JPG

IMG_1951 (resized).JPG

Did the connectors not have keying plugs in them to prevent misalignment? The rectifier J1 (top left) should have a key plug on the 4th opening from the left.

No you don't