Congrats on first pin. Read this--- http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm
Covers just about all you need to know on fixing old EM's

Parts-

http://www.pbresource.com/legs.html

28-1/2", non-ribbed, painted grey, according to Pinball resource's site
They have everything you will need.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=670. These are the legs you need

Congrats on the first pin purchase. Hope you have room for more...

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

Read it
Learn it
Love it

Hi and congrats on your first pin. As others have already stated with links to em repairs, read them thoroughly and you will not go wrong. I started not to long ago with an em myself that was a non runner, took me a few months of reading various em repair guides on this and other sites to finally get my Bally Trio working, but it was well worth it. Enjoy the madness.
PS don't be afraid to ask for help, this site and its members are an asset to us newbies.

I started last year with my first EM, now up to 5! The members on this forums are fantastic, but always good to do your reading first, and the pinrepair link is the one I have read top to bottom a couple of times and keep going back to.

Lots of other good links here:

http://www.stevechannel.com/pinballlinks.htm

I buy most stuff from pbresource, but their web-site is not great, a handy tip is to search for parts using google using format "part_needed site:pbresource.com" for example "legs site:pbresource.com" (without the quotes)

I would invest in a schematic for the machine (PBR sell them), and you will need parts numbers (especially when you order from PBR) but they can all be found on-line for your machine here:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1976/index.html

Good luck!

Others have given you plenty of reading. So let’s get on with the issues you have.

The buzzing noise, this can be from a few things. We need you to describe what’s happening in more detail.

When you turn on the machine, press the left flipper button, do the lights come on?

The buzzing, open the coin door, is the buzzing coming from the door area or inside?

Report back so we can move along, one step at a time.

One other thing, I don’t know what experience you have with these machines. They are fairly safe to work on so long that you take some precautions.

I would suggest that you read the first post and take this advice and cover up as described.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mains-power-exposed-parts#post-296827

Ok, sounds like you don’t have a schematic for you game. You can down load this one below, It’s for Monty Carlo, the only difference, and it is a big difference, is Monty Carlo is the four player version. But everything else is the same.

http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1621

Fuse, there are four. One is the line fuse; it is obviously in place and working. There is one 10amp for the coils and 2 15 amps for Lamps.
What are the wire colours of the missing fuse?

Spend the 9 bucks or so each, and get the first 2 TOP DVDs that deal with em games. Very helpful!

Can be achieved in many ways, the preferred is to jump the zero SW on the credit reel. But we can work that out later. For now just make the credit reel something other than zero.

Maybe, sounds like it.

I found the manual with my Bally Wizard! was a real help as it went step by step through the startup sequence. It makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose the problem by watching the startup to see if it is finishing each step and progressing.
Other than that, clean, clean clean. Then adjust, adjust, clean, adjust.

Cool, Ok. When you press the replay button. What happens?
Do all the reels rest to zero?
Does the Scr Motor stop turning?
Is there any other things you notice?

We need to know where you are getting to in relation to the start sequence.

There are some things that are pretty evident from the video, and one that isn't. And that one could be a huge one.

The score reels are not resetting. As long as they don't reset to zero, the game will never start correctly. In the backbox there is a relay that has the job of pulsing all the score reel relays (also in the backbox) and resetting them to zero. Once they're are at zero, the zero position switch on each reel will open, which tells the game that all reels are at zero. At that point, I think the game relay, if I recall correctly, will change states (it's a latch/trip relay) and then the ball will be sent up to the shooter lane. Also, the ball count unit needs to step the balls to play unit to three or five, depending on what you have it set on.

You can try and work the reset relay by hand and see if it moves the reels at all. You can also just reset all the reels to zero and see what happens. But as long as the reels are not all at zero, the score motor will run on forever.

That fuse hack needs to be corrected. You need to get a schematic and make sure all the fuses in the game are correct.

Now, on to the big one. It might be nothing, in which case you can eventually get the game working. Or it might be something, in which case you are pretty much screwed and it's going to be extremely difficult to get the game working.

On the motor board on the bottom of the game, you see that long plastic piece with teeth on it, look almost like shark teeth. ? It's on that long row of relays on the left hand side of the board. That is the trip bank for the numbers on the game, the tilt, several other different relays on there. That entire bank has to be reset at startup, or the game will not work. And it is reset by a motor turning that long piece of plastic with the teeth on it. It resets them in sort of a ripple fashion by the motor turning that long piece of plastic, and the teeth making contact with the relays and forcing them into the reset position. In your video, it's not turning as the score motor is running. It has to turn. If it doesn't, the game won't work. There may be several things at work here. It could be that power isn't getting to the motor. If so, you have to figure out why. It could be that power is getting there but the motor is bad. Worst of all, that plastic tube might be broken. It has been known to happen. If that piece is broken, you're in bad shape, because that piece is not available anywhere except for a donor machine, and you'll have to have either the ability to find a replacement piece, and have the ability to replace it, or you'll have to find someone who can.

I hate to be the bearer of possibly very bad news, but I owned O&E at one time, and if that reset is broken, you've got a mess on your hands.

Thanks for upload a vid.

First thing we need to do is trip the machine to "Game Over". this should happen when you first turn on the power. The back lights should be on and the "Game over" Lite, is it?

If not, then manual trip the game to game over.

To manual trip the Game over relay (GO RE). down on the left side of the bottom box, there is a relay that has two coils. This relay is mechanical latching, one coil latches the other trips. We need to press the trip coil to trip the relay. It should look like the Pic below when tripped. The pic was taken from the side of the machine.

When you have tripped the GO RE is the SCR motor still running?

Other Q, in the video, are the score reels all at Zero and staying there?

GO RE Triped.jpg

See we are posting at the same time, cool your online. lets get this working

That is interesting, it too is a relay like the GO RE. So it will trip and reset at a point that we are not getting to yet.

Just checked my machine, that its it - Game Interlock Relay, lets call it GO RE from here.

T

Thats the bonus stuff.
Turn the machine off then on, the trip coil should fire on the GO RE.

We need to get you to a position that everyone know where you are at.
The machine has a sequence for start up. We will move one step at a time till we find the issue.

EDIT - When you turn the power on only the GO RE trip coil should fire.should

The GO RE should still trip see below. Power goes though the lock RE to the GO trip coil. And nothing else. When you first turn on the machine this should trip.
So lest find out why this is not working as it should.
See if you can find the Lock RE. it should be 5 REs up on the right hand side. Some people remove these.
help.jpg

Look at the lock RE with the power off, there should be a NC SW (Normally closed Switch), wire colours Green/ red and Yellow/ no trace (Main colour/ trace colour).
This SW should be closed

Note i edit my post, had wrong wire colours above. Now correct.
Do you have a mulity meter, DMM?

That coil look ok, you can check with your meter if you like, but you need to remove the coil fuse first. It will read about 105 ohms.
More important. the yellow wire on the fourth SW from the Lock RE coil to the Green /red wire on the GO trip coil, see if you have continuity.

Just use Ω. It should read 0 if you have good connections

Set the meter up so you can see it and the probes reach, than touch the yellow wire with one probe and the Green /red wire with the other.
Its a good ideal to first touch the probes together and see that the meter is working first.
Do this with the machine off.

Warning, there is Mains supply in a few locations on the machine, like the most right fuse, the bottom of the transformer and the on /off SW.
I will find a post about this and link it for you.

read the first post, its the same machine as your.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mains-power-exposed-parts

No the chime bars don't have mains power, LOL. (Post 2)

coil fuse, LOL.

I meant the fuse for the coils. It is the 2nd from the right. Has Red/white and Black wires. If you don't take the fuse out when reading a coils resistance, you can read the transformers resistance which ever is the smaller.
Anyway. Now you have checked the continuation on one side of the coil and it is OK.
this is hard to explain.
First you need to latch the GO RE, press the coil plunger on the coil that is away from the coin door of the GO RE than check with your DMM from the Yellow/black wire of the GO RE trip coil and Red/White wire on the above mentioned fuse.

al

Test with power OFF, and even un plugged from the wall.

To help you along a bit, this is what we are testing,
The objective is to see why the GO RE is not tripping on power up. This is only the Start of the sequence, but hopefully it will help you along with testing and what not as well as schematic reading.

help.jpg