I picked up an early Dirty Harry (warehouse drop-down target) game over the weekend. The previous owner let the game sit for eight years. It appears that it was never maintained. Initial review at sellers place threw red flags. The door lock had been drilled out. I removed the glass and initially the underside of play-field looked very nice with no apparent issues. The game was plugged in and lit up but the initial error screen popped up. Since I was unable to get in the head and knew that the batteries were dead since "factory defaults were loaded", but had no idea what else was wrong inside head. Thankfully the head bolts were NOT in place and I was able to fold the head for travel. I bought the game and took it home. I removed the security screws with vice grips, removed translite, and took a deep breath before opening. It actually was not that bad. The batteries were from 2004 and had NOT leaked. Replacing them and setting date and time fixed the factory default display, but the error that stated "Check Fuses F115 and F116, J112 and Opto 12V power supply was displayed. I was able to get into test mode and test a bunch of things. I replaced the burned connectors (J120 & J121). I also put a meter accross the F115 and F116 as well as every other fuse I could find and they ALL passed. I started the game up again and there was no improvement. A few times I received a random statement saying gun was being synchronized or something like that. The only thing that I saw underneath was that a bracket for a solenoid was inside the game. Looking more around the insides I found two studs that appear to have been welded to the warehouse door drop down solenoid bracket (see pics). In test mode the flippers and solenoids all seemed to work. The gun test says "gun broke". Any steps to get this up and running would be greatly appreciated. Is my warehouse version more valuable then the later non-warehouse door version? I include the mechanism for the warehouse drop down target. Funny how they left it completely out of the manual on lower play-field parts page 2-39.

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I just researched 12V and noticed that LED-7 on the Power Driver Board is not lit. So NOW what?

1) I removed F116 and checked it with my meter, It was fine so was F115.
2) I checked for AC voltage coming into the Power Driver board at J112 between pins 1 and 5. Meter shows 11.7 V
3) Verified no DC Voltage between TP1 and ground.

Random gripe.... I wish there were electronics stores where these parts are STILL available.I wanted to get this game playable this weekend.

I am thinking about ordering two of these. Looks like a good idea and might fix my issue. Check it out:
https://www.gameroomguys.com/WPC-Upgrade-Kit

Order placed, hope that does the trick, and the way I look at it, even if it doesn't the board will be much more resilient.I will let you know if that gets things working again.

Dirty Harry is now fully functional and gives my Whitewater a serious run for its money. The shots have a very narrow alley. My game is an early game with the drop target warehouse doorway. My mechanism had a bracket that the studs were sheared off due to poor manufacture. I purchased the new bracket. I have an issue with a switch but can't figure out what is happening. The solenoid is a 1200. On mine the sleeve stick out about 3/8" (is that right?). The target functions correctly, however during game-play the solenoid keeps trying to pop the target up even when it is up. No rhyme or reason. I adjusted the lower switch so that when the drop target is hit the tab on the target closes the switch. The only other adjustment is the funky wingnut lock. I set it at what the old bracket appeared to be at (around 3/8") I would like to know peoples opinion. Is the drop target more hassle than its worth? The assembly is not in the manual. Is there a procedure to set it up? I just finished all new rubbers and lights and the game looks awesome and is way more challenging with the new rubbers. I really want to take out some punks and fix this tonight. Hoping someone out there can shed some light.