(Topic ID: 51011)

Just bought a '75 Gottlieb Abra-ca-dabra today.

By Rat_Tomago

10 years ago


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  • 107 posts
  • 26 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by kangourou
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There are 107 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 10 years ago

I am soooooooo happy with this machine. 10/10 ORIGINAL backglass. Had people ask me already if it is a repro. I still can't believe that it is original. 8.8 /10 playfield. Two slightly cupped inserts and one slightly raised insert that needs to be reset. Some slight touch ups needed on lower outlane inserts in the purple. Cab is a 7.5 / 10. Needs a repaint but very decent original condition if I wanted to just leave it as is. Plastics are slightly warped but I will get the new repros this month. Coin door and all metal has been coated with that aweful gun metal grey stuff. Going to get a new coin door, legs and anything metal from PBR. Here are some pictures for you guys to drool.

lit_up_playfield.jpglit_up_playfield.jpg

#2 10 years ago

Unbelievable original backglass.

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#3 10 years ago

The only noticable planking lines that I could find. I was being nit picky.

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#4 10 years ago

These inserts are flawless and unchipped.

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#5 10 years ago

5000 slightly cupped but so far it is not effecting play.
4000 is level.
3000 is flat but slightly raised on the left side.
2000 is level.
1000 is slightly cupped but not as cupped as the 5000.

playfield_inserts.jpgplayfield_inserts.jpg

#6 10 years ago

more

inserts_side_view.jpginserts_side_view.jpg

#7 10 years ago

I know.... I didn't get all the wax off the roll over. I assure you I cleaned it after I took the picture

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#8 10 years ago

I will get this playfield touched up and clear coated.

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#9 10 years ago

Oh how I wish I had a new coin door already!

coin_door.jpgcoin_door.jpg

#10 10 years ago

Very nice score- dig the artwork

#11 10 years ago

Very cool

#12 10 years ago

Warped plastics: What I found out is if you lay the plastics on a piece of glass and hold an industrial heat gun 18 to 24 inches away that the plastics will lay flat after a couple of minutes. Just keep the heat gun moving to distribute the heat evenly.

Nice machine.

#13 10 years ago

Wow!! That looks gorgeous! Man, I love me some Abra-Ca-Dabra and this is a NICE one! Fantastic grab. One day I hope mine will look close to as nice as this baby.

#14 10 years ago

Great score! I'm waiting on my repro backglass, and stencils, to complete my restoration...

Awesome art/ fantastic gameplay = amazing machine

#15 10 years ago

Nice, agree the gray paint doesn't do it justice. PBR can help you out there. Another way to passively flatten the plastics that has worked for me. Find a nice flat sunny location, take a few old sheets of play field glass (I keep some around for just this purpose, layout the plastics on one piece (with something black below the glass), then add a couple more sheets on top to weight it down. Leave it there all day on a good, hot sunny day. Check it out at the end of the day after things have cooled off. If still slightly warped, you can leave it another day. Can't take credit for the idea, also works in the back of a pick up with black bed liner as the bed helps hold/concentrate the heat. Enjoy your new game, wish I had never sold mine. Really fun and great artwork package. Hope you have someone who can do touch ups. Esp. for the cab. if it's in good shape original artwork over repaints any day!!

#16 10 years ago

Nice machine. Thanks for sharing. I look forward to seeing pics when completed.

#17 10 years ago

Nice find. I just told someone yesterday I've sold 3 Abra's and haven't kept one yet. I need to find #4 soon.

#18 10 years ago

One of my top 10 wedgeheads ever made. the one I have had the best backglass I ever saw on this title. yours looks good but really the backside is the only way to tell.
if the plastics are not broken why get new just flatten them works everytime.

abra_BG.jpgabra_BG.jpg

#19 10 years ago

Very nice title, great artwork, and on my Wishlist, congrats!

I like the position of the Pop Bumpers as it is a very unique feature not many pins were designed that way back in the day.

Enjoy!

Ken

#20 10 years ago

I like that coin door and coin entry just they way they are!

#21 10 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

I like that coin door and coin entry just they way they are!

It does looks nice, but I guess if the OP is willing to spend the extra bucks for a new PBR chrome one then that is even better.

Ken

#22 10 years ago

If I were going to sell it I would leave the painted metal parts as is. If I were going to do a total restore and throw it in my collection, I would get PBR's coin door skin and coin entrance housing, new legs, etc.. Then save those old parts for a beater you may get down the road.

#23 10 years ago

Im hoping i can make it to Sherman next weekend to get a few plays in on it

--Jeff

#24 10 years ago

I like the layout, with the high drop targets and the lower pops. The artwork is pleasing too.
Nice pickup!

#25 10 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

One of my top 10 wedgeheads ever made. the one I have had the best backglass I ever saw on this title. yours looks good but really the backside is the only way to tell.
if the plastics are not broken why get new just flatten them works everytime.

Your backglass is superb. Mine has been triple thicked and yours has not. I don't feel like moving my machine to take mine out. I have one small spec missing from the wizard's toe. One of my plastics is broken at the bottom one of the bigger plastics on the side has a small but noticeable crack. I am going to just pick up a set so I have a full set available.

#26 10 years ago

Congratulations on the score!

I love the artwork on this machine.

#27 10 years ago

Do you have a secret source for the plastics? Pinrescue has them listed, but not ready yet........

#28 10 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

Do you have a secret source for the plastics? Pinrescue has them listed, but not ready yet........

Nope I am just waiting for pinrescue to put them out. I am beyond happy that I don't have to shell out 300 dollars for a repro backglass.

#29 10 years ago

Here are some backglass pics. I figured I would take a few since I was back there today. I would downgrade this glass from a 10 to a solid 9. Still an amazing original glass. Most of these back glasses are shot to hell.

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#30 10 years ago

Moderate felt tape damage that I am still searching on the backglass if it shows all the way through. It would take an eagle eye to find it while playing it.

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#31 10 years ago

Typical felt tape damage of the era. Grrrr. Oh well. At least it doesn't stand out much while playing the machine.

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#32 10 years ago

One white spec missing in white of score reel area. You have to be seriously looking for it while playing.

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#33 10 years ago

One of the few noticable specs of paint missing by the wizard's foot. It is really the only specs that you see while playing the machine. Beyond easy to touch up if I felt like it.

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#34 10 years ago

One missing spec of paint by one of the "orbs"

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#35 10 years ago

One without flash. A few small specs missing by wizard's foot.

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#36 10 years ago

Wow, what an awesome looking game!

Lee from Pinball Rescue was only just saying that the full set of playfield plastics are to be released very soon http://www.pinballrescue.net/Plastics_Available.html

Out of the 30 EMs in my shed this title is the best player hands down..enjoy!

Always wondered why Gottlieb didn't put the felt on the timber facing the backglass, then we wouldn't have this issue.

#37 10 years ago

your backglass is still very nice, they almost always had flaking in the red.
mine has on small spot on the wizards eye other than that in good shape. webb will have a repro soon it will be awesome as they all are.
I did get the two small plastics from pinball rescue, I wish they would sell more of the partial sets. some machines always have the same broken plastics, it would be great if you could get just those instead of buying a complete set.

#38 10 years ago

Actually a new non yellowed set would be warranted for my machine. I don't feel like futzing around with trying to get them unyellowed and unwarped. I just might order another backglass and put it in storage for a "what if" situation.

#39 10 years ago

AFAIK, you can't really "unyellow" playfield plastics like that. If you tried to do anything to the backside where the art is screened, short of VERY gentle cleaning, you're asking for trouble.

#40 10 years ago

BTW Frax came over and fixed some small stuff and helped me get the machine 100%. He FRAXED it with a 115,000 something score.

Quoted from Frax:

AFAIK, you can't really "unyellow" playfield plastics like that. If you tried to do anything to the backside where the art is screened, short of VERY gentle cleaning, you're asking for trouble.

Yeah that is why I just want a fresh set of plastics to make the game pop. I took the chimes off and cleaned the crap out of them and soaked the little nuts in simple green for an hour. The chimes look like new. I might just take some fine grain sandpaper like 600 grit and get any scratches out. I am about to get some fine sand paper to sand the side rails and lock down bar to make them look fresh.

#41 10 years ago

I just took 600 grit waterproof sand paper and 91% alcohol and cleaned up the side rails and lock down bar. I finished them up with fine steel wool. The siderails and lock down bar look factory now. I also took the chimes off cleaned them, sanded steel wool and bought some new nylon 6-32 washers. Man the chimes look AMAZING now. I figure little by little I will get the courage to take other mechanical things apart to clean them and restore them to shiny new.

#42 10 years ago

Show some pics

#43 10 years ago

By request.... I will most likely take out the small chime bar and work on it a tad more because it has that residue look on it and it is not coming off with simple green. It should take 5 more minutes of wet sanding followed by steel wool polishing.

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#44 10 years ago

A good picture showing the lock down bar

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#45 10 years ago

I am very excited on how the side rails turned out! They look factory fresh. I just need new side rail nails. I will have those installed when I have the cab painted. (And yes I got all the dried wax out from underneath the plastic thingy under the pop cap assembly. It looked annoying as hell after I took this picture)

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#46 10 years ago

pictures don't do it justice. It is not perfect but it is 10 times better now that I have taken 38 years of gunk off of it.

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#47 10 years ago

Aren't they nice and shiny? They sound better as well.

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#48 10 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

Hope you have someone who can do touch ups. Esp. for the cab. if it's in good shape original artwork over repaints any day!!

My cab is the weakest part of my machine it is a 7 to 7.5. It looks like crap with scratches. I got most of the nicotine off but there are just too many scratches in the cab. I have a few people that I know that can do a perfect factory repaints with the perfect amount of factory speckle. I myself enjoy repaints when they are done right. This will be the 4th machine I have had with a repaint and all done up.

I am going to try the plastics flattening trick tomorrow.

#49 10 years ago

Nice job so far - looking great.

#50 10 years ago

If I may suggest, apply some Miniwax paste finishing wax to those clean chime bars to keep them from oxidizing too soon. You can use it on any bare metal to prevent oxidization. I have some 1930's-1940's steel radio chassis which were polished with wire wheel and steel wool which would rust overninght. I applied this stuff +20 years ago and no oxidization yet.

5d19e489-b88b-43e4-900f-57133702d8eb_3.jpg5d19e489-b88b-43e4-900f-57133702d8eb_3.jpg

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