(Topic ID: 305370)

Jurassic Park The Pin (Stern) owners club. Welcome home, Jurassic Park!

By Flyfalcons

2 years ago


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There are 1,074 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 22.
#101 2 years ago
Quoted from PocketHoleshot:

I'm looking to upgrade my SW comic art pro speakers and then swap the old speakers into my JDJP. Can anyone point me to where I can purchase this connector so I can hook up the cabinet speaker to the board on my JDJP?
It's an 18awg female 2 pin connector with these numbers stamped on.
MXN 34
41895
Thanks in advance![quoted image]

https://www.pinballlife.com/molex-crimp-stuff-connectors-and-parts.html

#102 2 years ago
Quoted from Flyfalcons:

That was a good game this morning. Restore Power is more fun to me than Escape Nublar, but the sheer number of shots needed to light a super jackpot makes me feel like RP should be a multiball.
Likewise, considering that the T-Rex head is so prominent, the stand up targets reset after you lose a ball, and it takes three shots to start T-Rex multiball, it seems like not a big enough moment to get T-Rex Multiball. Only two balls and a short ball save time means you lose one ball and it's over pretty quickly. Personally, I feel like more reward for the effort with the T-Rex is warranted.[quoted image]

I agree regarding the T-Rex. I feel like an easy code fix to lessen this would be to not reset the drop targets between balls (excepting multiplayer). When casual players play, they 'accidentally' get Raptor multiball fairly easily, and the T-Rex toy is too fun to have it be used so sparingly. The game is fast and brutal enough that an easier to get 2 ball multiball would really only benefit pros (aka not me) who can trap up and reliably hit shots over and over again. Would be a nice service menu option (i.e. "Reset drop targets between balls: ON/OFF")

Now, that being said, I personally don't have the issue that others report regarding hitting the right drop down target for SDTM drains. It might be because I have the playfield pitched a little aggressively? But the T-Rex spits the ball out fairly consistently to the right flipper, which means I don't *need* to get all 3 drop targets down - just the middle one - which means I can shoot the T-Rex a little more often, I guess. I get more SDTM drains when the ball gets behind all 3 drop targets, then rolls and hits the foam between Triceratops/Pteranadon.

#103 2 years ago
Quoted from Aries_pinside:

So. They're in!
[quoted image]
The blades are these ones: https://wizardmod.com/collections/jurassic-park-stern-pinball-mods/products/jurassic-park-stern-sunset-pinball-wizblades
They are intended for the cornerstone machines, but fit this one just fine. However, the cutout for the backbox doesn't line up (totally unnoticeable in the real world until someone points it out), and a hole needs to be made for the bolts on each side (the art actually hides this really well - the bolt is basically camouflaged in with the trees.). Here's a pic of what I'm talking about - notice the backbox doesn't really "reach" where the cutout is, and I have pierced the bolt through the side art.
[quoted image]
There is a flipper leaf switch 'guard' on the right side that I had to remove and re-attach to make it look pretty (not super obvious once its all together):
[quoted image]
Super happy with how it turned out!

This looks awesome! Getting mine now. Thank you for sharing!

#104 2 years ago

Just ordered this from cointaker. Really excited since I love the Star Wars home pin and this one looks to be even better. Probably a dumb question but would the Stern light up amber shooter rod work on this model?

#105 2 years ago
Quoted from solid_snake:

Just ordered this from cointaker. Really excited since I love the Star Wars home pin and this one looks to be even better. Probably a dumb question but would the Stern light up amber shooter rod work on this model?

The knob/plunger itself will work, but the shooter rod assembly is very different on the home pins. The assembly is a part of the playfield, and isn't actually attached to the cabinet. It just means the lighted part won't work. It probably would be pretty easy to modify it though...

#106 2 years ago
Quoted from Sphodgin:

Try lowering the power too. Maybe the ball is coming out too hard and bouncing off of other parts and into that rail. I like to lower the power to the point that it can’t clear the trough and then the slowly raise it until it starts to reliably clear.
For reference, my Trough Eject Power is set at 150. [quoted image]

I had a similar issue, and the 150 setting worked great.

#107 2 years ago

I've got this white LED that's flickering, especially when the ball is flying around nearby or if I lightly tap on it. Is there a newbie guide to accessing/checking these lights? And If it's going bad should I ask Stern directly about a replacement bulb?

Screenshot_20220105-170259_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220105-170259_Gallery (resized).jpg
#108 2 years ago
Quoted from Maxforwardspeed:

white LED that's flickering

If the light is flickering, I would guess that there is a connection issue over a defective bulb. I would first check that the bulb is seated correctly, then if the contacts are clean, then inspect the wire to housing connection there could be a bad solder joint.

#109 2 years ago
Quoted from Sphodgin:

If the light is flickering, I would guess that there is a connection issue over a defective bulb. I would first check that the bulb is seated correctly, then if the contacts are clean, then inspect the wire to housing connection there could be a bad solder joint.

I bet you're right about the bulb being seated correctly. When I touch it from above it feels loose. Any video on removing the playfield for this game? Do you guys use side art protectors when doing so? Thanks

#110 2 years ago
Quoted from Maxforwardspeed:

I bet you're right about the bulb being seated correctly. When I touch it from above it feels loose. Any video on removing the playfield for this game? Do you guys use side art protectors when doing so? Thanks

Not sure what you mean by removing the playfield or side art protectors, but you can probably get to the bulb from both above and below the playfield. For above just unscrew enough to remove that plastic that is covering it. For the bottom you will have to unlatch the lockdown bar from inside the metal door, remove that bar and the glass, then unscrew the bolt in the front center of the playfield. After that you will want lift and pull the playfield towards you until you can rest those u-bars on the front cabinet. Next remove the balls and then you can pull the playfield out more and swing the front of it up and then lean it against the back box.

#111 2 years ago
Quoted from JordyRamone:

So I'm selling all my retro video game collection in order to get this machine. I don't have any machines but i have wanted one for a while. I cannot wait to get this in my house and play it.

That's exactly the boat I'm in.....

#112 2 years ago
Quoted from EvilGenius:

That's exactly the boat I'm in.....

We got a custom 4-player multicade at the same time as this, but the JP Pin has been getting WAY more play time between the two.

#113 2 years ago

Finally got grand champion score. Beat nublar and made it through restore power. First time getting to restore power, so didn’t really know what to do. I guess the timer ran out because balls drained and game reset again. All the lights on the PF are blinking. I thought restoring power to one shot and then sinking it in the trex would score some big points for super jackpot, but maybe I missed something. Also am still using the wide factory outlanes, so feel like I have beat the game and may be ready to move on lol.

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#114 2 years ago
Quoted from Sphodgin:

Not sure what you mean by removing the playfield or side art protectors,

This is what I saw, not sure how common they are though being new to this game:

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

#115 2 years ago

Just got mine a couple days and I'm loving it. Just a few questions since I'm new at owning a pinball machine. When me and my buddy were inspecting the machine for loose screws and when we put the playfield down after looking at the bottom we heard something drop. It was a nut at the very back of the playfield. We looked for at least 20 mins to find where this nut is supposed to go and couldn't. Anyone have any idea where a not obvious location could be for this nut? I'm assuming it's from the back part but don't know for sure. Is it possible that this is a extra one? Cause I'm really stumped.
My second question is has anyone had trouble with the ball getting stuck at the back? I think it's between the metal flap and the plastic protector part under the jump ramp. I included pictures to help explain where the nut was and where the ball gets stuck. Thanks!

20220106_175622 (resized).jpg20220106_175622 (resized).jpg20220108_172055 (resized).jpg20220108_172055 (resized).jpg
#116 2 years ago
Quoted from JordyRamone:

Just got mine a couple days and I'm loving it. Just a few questions since I'm new at owning a pinball machine. When me and my buddy were inspecting the machine for loose screws and when we put the playfield down after looking at the bottom we heard something drop. It was a nut at the very back of the playfield. We looked for at least 20 mins to find where this nut is supposed to go and couldn't. Anyone have any idea where a not obvious location could be for this nut? I'm assuming it's from the back part but don't know for sure. Is it possible that this is a extra one? Cause I'm really stumped.
My second question is has anyone had trouble with the ball getting stuck at the back? I think it's between the metal flap and the plastic protector part under the jump ramp. I included pictures to help explain where the nut was and where the ball gets stuck. Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah balls get stuck on that back gate all the time. There is some Mylar on the playfield that begins right where that gate is, causing the gate to hold the ball down on the lip of the Mylar. Mylar is there because of the jump ramp. If it was just 1 centimeter longer it wouldn’t be an issue.

#117 2 years ago
Quoted from JordyRamone:

Just got mine a couple days and I'm loving it. Just a few questions since I'm new at owning a pinball machine. When me and my buddy were inspecting the machine for loose screws and when we put the playfield down after looking at the bottom we heard something drop. It was a nut at the very back of the playfield. We looked for at least 20 mins to find where this nut is supposed to go and couldn't. Anyone have any idea where a not obvious location could be for this nut? I'm assuming it's from the back part but don't know for sure. Is it possible that this is a extra one? Cause I'm really stumped.
My second question is has anyone had trouble with the ball getting stuck at the back? I think it's between the metal flap and the plastic protector part under the jump ramp. I included pictures to help explain where the nut was and where the ball gets stuck. Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Same thing with me - I have a post in one of the JDJP pins. It was for some ramp on the back right if I remember. The nut is too big which is why it fell off. I haven’t replaced with a smaller one and no issues 500+ games later.

#118 2 years ago

Thanks for the reply's. I wonder if there is a home remedy for the ball being stuck there. It's probably happened 4 times in the past 50 games but it would be nice for it not to be a issue.

#119 2 years ago
Quoted from JordyRamone:

Thanks for the reply's. I wonder if there is a home remedy for the ball being stuck there. It's probably happened 4 times in the past 50 games but it would be nice for it not to be a issue.

Does it happen on ball launch, or just dropping from the ramp?

Quoted from JordyRamone:

Anyone have any idea where a not obvious location could be for this nut?

Check the bolts at the front on the coin door. I had one of those missing a nut that fell way down there, probably from shipping on it's back.

#120 2 years ago
Quoted from Maxforwardspeed:

Does it happen on ball launch, or just dropping from the ramp?

Check the bolts at the front on the coin door. I had one of those missing a nut that fell way down there, probably from shipping on it's back.

I think it only happens if it drops from the ramp or if the orbit is hit slowly. It doesn't happen often but it's a bit annoying when it does.
Thanks for the tip on the nut. Next time I have it open I'll take a look at those areas

#121 2 years ago

I've had a ball get stuck under that flap just once. Depending on how adventurous you are, you might have success taking it out and putting a little bit of lube on the hinge, so the ball doesn't have to fight anything other than gravity.

#122 2 years ago

It spins very freely it is just like the ball gets pinned. I noticed it more when I got my ninja balls but I wonder if it's just because it had more games under the belt at that time and something on it wore out or something.

It's also a bit suspect that I left a review about this on Mezel's website on the product page and it still isn't showing up.

#123 2 years ago

“Some assembly required”

The only way I can get any pin upstairs in my house is to take it apart.
E8F376B6-48EF-4388-81AE-90141487AB77 (resized).jpegE8F376B6-48EF-4388-81AE-90141487AB77 (resized).jpeg

#124 2 years ago

Reassembled and a few dozen games on there.

Quote of the night is from my father in law from NJ “I like this. This is the only game here that isn’t trying to f$&@ me”

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#125 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

“Some assembly required”
The only way I can get any pin upstairs in my house is to take it apart.

Looks good! Was removing and reinstalling the backbox difficult at all? Are there a lot of wires you had to unplug and replug? Mine should arrive any day from cointaker and I might have to do that if I want to put it upstairs.

#126 2 years ago

First time owner as of 12-23, first time mechanic as of 01-10. As my 12 year old son was beating my high score, I noticed that Raptor multi-ball kept triggering. The next game, I got it to start before the game.

The trigger at the bottom of the raptor pen seemed to be catching on the rubber occasionally. After that, any vibration in the case would cause it to respond. A little push on the back side of the trigger, and moving the rubber slightly seems to have cleaned it up for now.

Yes, lots of multiball action is fun, but when you can trigger it just by hitting a flipper before you start the game, that's not fun.

#127 2 years ago
Quoted from solid_snake:

Looks good! Was removing and reinstalling the backbox difficult at all? Are there a lot of wires you had to unplug and replug? Mine should arrive any day from cointaker and I might have to do that if I want to put it upstairs.

Not at all. Removing the head is maybe a 3-4 minute job.

1) Remove the 2 screws from the top glass trim. The trim comes off and the back glass comes out. Be careful with this
2) Unplug the cat 5 cable and the Molex connector with the green wires.
3) Unsnap the EMI split core filter from the power cables going to the power supply. Unscrew the terminals for the 2 power wires going to the cabinet, and undo the nut holding the wire tie in place. Wires will now fall into the back box
4) Remove the 2 hinge bolts (cabinet bolts from the back of the head won't be installed yet if it just shipped. Obviously remove the glass first)

The head should come right off after that.

#128 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

Not at all. Removing the head is maybe a 3-4 minute job.
1) Remove the 2 screws from the top glass trim. The trim comes off and the back glass comes out. Be careful with this
2) Unplug the cat 5 cable and the Molex connector with the green wires.
3) Unsnap the EMI split core filter from the power cables going to the power supply. Unscrew the terminals for the 2 power wires going to the cabinet
4) remove the 2 cabinet bolts from the back of the head, and the 2 hinge bolts
The head should come right off after that.

Awesome, sounds like even I could do that. Thanks for the help.

#129 2 years ago
Quoted from Kragnaxos:

First time owner as of 12-23, first time mechanic as of 01-10. As my 12 year old son was beating my high score, I noticed that Raptor multi-ball kept triggering. The next game, I got it to start before the game.
The trigger at the bottom of the raptor pen seemed to be catching on the rubber occasionally. After that, any vibration in the case would cause it to respond. A little push on the back side of the trigger, and moving the rubber slightly seems to have cleaned it up for now.
Yes, lots of multiball action is fun, but when you can trigger it just by hitting a flipper before you start the game, that's not fun.

Good job diagnosing and correcting. My Raptor pit switches also needed some tweaking so they wouldn't activate so easily. Other than a missing screw holding the Raptor pit gate in place, I haven't had any other maintenance items yet. Still having fun with this game and my five year old dino nut daughter is enamored with it.

1204210817a_HDR (resized).jpg1204210817a_HDR (resized).jpg
#130 2 years ago

Has anyone tried the through ball test in the diagnostic menu? I used it the other day to remove the pinballs before raising the playfield and when it got to the 3rd and 4th ball they didn't eject from the trough even though I heard the solenoid activate. After a few tries it eventually worked. Almost like there wasn't enough weight pushing them all the way into position to feed properly.

So I guess this won't ever be an issue unless you get multiball, which I have to admit I'm not good enough to get that yet!

The playfield is at 6.5° on the digital level, and seems level side to side also. I've got the trough eject set to 150, but I noticed this when I removed the pinballs this way before changing it.

Any ideas I can try so it can work right IF multiball ever happens for me?

#131 2 years ago
Quoted from Maxforwardspeed:

Has anyone tried the through ball test in the diagnostic menu? I used it the other day to remove the pinballs before raising the playfield and when it got to the 3rd and 4th ball they didn't eject from the trough even though I heard the solenoid activate. After a few tries it eventually worked. Almost like there wasn't enough weight pushing them all the way into position to feed properly.
So I guess this won't ever be an issue unless you get multiball, which I have to admit I'm not good enough to get that yet!
The playfield is at 6.5° on the digital level, and seems level side to side also. I've got the trough eject set to 150, but I noticed this when I removed the pinballs this way before changing it.
Any ideas I can try so it can work right IF multiball ever happens for me?

I haven't had that happen yet. You can try to trigger multiball manually with the glass off to make sure it works as it should. You might just have to turn up the trough eject until it works reliably. I have to turn mine up after turning it down initially. It sometimes takes a try or two before it kicks out.

#132 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I haven't had that happen yet. You can try to trigger multiball manually with the glass off to make sure it works as it should. You might just have to turn up through eject until it works reliably. I have to turn mine up after turning it down initially. It sometimes takes a try or two before it kicks out.

Great point, I'll try that today!

#133 2 years ago

Umm, were we supposed to wax the playfield out of the box? I'm having an oh s**t moment. What are you guys using for that?

#134 2 years ago
Quoted from Maxforwardspeed:

were we supposed to wax the playfield

I will probably do my first wax at 1000 plays.

#135 2 years ago
Quoted from Maxforwardspeed:

Umm, were we supposed to wax the playfield out of the box? I'm having an oh s**t moment. What are you guys using for that?

You don’t have to but always nice on new pins as you don’t know what got in the playfield in transit or unboxing. I do a light wax on every new pin I buy.

#136 2 years ago
Quoted from Maxforwardspeed:

Umm, were we supposed to wax the playfield out of the box? I'm having an oh s**t moment. What are you guys using for that?

Stern doesn't recommend waxing. They say to use some Novus 2 if it gets dull. Waxing is up to you.

#137 2 years ago
Quoted from Maxforwardspeed:

Umm, were we supposed to wax the playfield out of the box? I'm having an oh s**t moment. What are you guys using for that?

No, ready to go out of the box.

#138 2 years ago

My $20 sound upgrade
--------------------------
Since this is a home based pin, there are probably some first time pin owners picking these up, and getting new speaker plates for the head might add more cost and confusion than they are comfortable with. Additionally, adding a speaker in the cabinet helps to deaden a little of the sound coming from the playfield mechs. I'm going to try to be as descriptive and simple as possible to help out the entire spectrum of owners.

Parts List
----------
8" 8 ohm speaker - $19.98 (I used this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JV7F4W)
~5-6 feet of speaker wire - $0 (I'm sure you have some lying around. If not, make a friend. Steal theirs)
2x 0.156 crimp terminals - $0.19 ea https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CT156T (Do you even pinball if you don't have a couple spares?)

Note - The speaker I ordered was is listed on Amazon as a single voice coil 4 ohm speaker. What you get from that link is a dual 4 ohm voice coil that you can wire in series to get an 8 ohm impedance.

*Step Zero - Unplug Your Machine*
----------------------------------------
It's never a good idea to work on it while it is powered up.

Step One - Making the Cable
--------------------------------
Start out by cutting about an 8" long piece of your speaker wire. Separate the pair and strip the end of one of the stranded wires. You can tin the ends if you have your soldering iron handy, but it isn't necessary. Now connect one side to a red connector on once side of the speaker, and the other to the black connector on the other side of the speaker. This is how we set up the speaker to be wired in series with an 8 ohm impedance (you'll see it in the photo below). If you get a single voice coil speaker that is already 8 ohms you can skip this part.

Now with the remaining long piece of your speaker wire, you want to strip about 1/8" off one end and crimp on your .156" terminals on. If you don't have a crimper, this is a pretty decent one I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
You can then strip about 1/4" off the other end of the wire. Again you can tin these if you like. I also like to use a little heat shrink tubing to mark the ends of speaker wire. This isn't necessary since the wire has a stripe, but I like to do it to eliminate confusion later.crimp (resized).jpgcrimp (resized).jpg

Step two - Making the connection
-------------------------------------
Open up the back box by carefully unscrewing the two Philips head screws on the top of the translite trim. Be careful because the glass will tip out after it is removed. Set it aside some place where you won't kick it over. You aren't the Hulk. Only Hulk smash.

On the lower left side of the CPU board (the only circuit board in the back box) you will see a connector with a red and a black wire coming out of it, with 3 other spaces. This is the speaker output. Unplug this. It is marked "L+ L- R+ R-". We are going to plug our freshly crimped terminals into the left 2 spaces in the connector, so there is one empty space in the middle. You should hear them click into place. Give them a light tug to be sure everything is seated firmly and plug it back into the board. Route the wire through a cable tie, and drop the rest down and into the cabinet. You can put the translite back in place with the trim and 2 screws.IMG_3162 (resized).JPGIMG_3162 (resized).JPG
*This game uses mixed monoaural instead of stereo, and has the cabinet channel disabled in the code.That is why we are connecting a cabinet speaker into the left channel, if you were even wondering that. It will get the same signal as the single cabinet speaker. More on that later.*

Step Three - Mounting the Speaker
---------------------------------------
Open your coin door and unsnap the 2 latches holding your lock down bar in place. Lift it out and unclip the start button to remove it. Slide the glass out and set it aside someplace safe. If you have a hard surface, set it on a towel so you don't have a catastrophic breakage. Remove the bolt holding the playfield down and carefully lift and slide it up to rest against the head.

There is already a cut out in the bottom of the cabinet, and there are also 4x posts with 5/16" lock nuts and washers along with a plastic mesh panel covering the cut out. Undo the nuts and set them and the washer aside. I removed the mesh panel since there isn't a speaker ring to give clearance for the foam rubber surround on this particular speaker. If you use another speaker with less travel, you might be able to keep using it. Slide the speaker over the posts. I may take a little wiggle to get it over the posts and sitting flat, but it'll get on there. Use the washers and the nuts to secure it to the bottom of the cabinet. Now connect your positive to the positive red terminal and negative to the black terminal as shown. Note - you can now see the series wiring connector I mentioned in step one. You can now lower the playfield back in place, replace the bolt, slide the glass back in, and connect and clip the lockdown bar back into place. Plug the machine back in and turn it on.IMG_3163 (resized).JPGIMG_3163 (resized).JPG

Step Four - Final Set Up
---------------------------
This last part is all about preferences. There unfortunately isn't enough settings (yet) to really do the set up justice. If there is anyone out there (*ahem* DeadFlip ) that could talk someone into reenabling the right-left balance control in a future code update, that would make the whole thing really shine.
to begin, open your coin door, and using the 4 buttons (green is return, red is back and forward, black is menu/select)press:
[Menu] --> [Menu] --> Scroll till you see "Util" --> Press [Menu] --> Scroll till you see "Volume" --> Press [Menu]
In here I changed 4 settings. "Select Backbox Treble Frequency" and "Select Backbox Bass Frequency" I turned off (press [Menu] to select either of them, change the setting, and hit [Menu] again). I also adjusted "Backbox Treble Gain" and "Backbox Bass Gain" to zero. You can experiment with these until it sounds good to you.

Final Thoughts
----------------
For $20, this is definitely worth while.

But... it could be so much better. The way the software is configured currently limits this a bit. It would sound amazing if we could fade more of the sound to the cabinet (or left channel as we set it up) and turn up the volume. It would be even better if the cabinet channel was enabled, then we could utilize the different frequency cut offs and fade options already in the code and really dial this in to make the t-rex roar. There are absolutely tons of other ways to accomplish something similar, but I don't think any of them approach this price point or level of simplicity. Let me know if you have any questions.

Added 23 months ago:

Update - with the latest code update the cabinet pins are now enabled! Go to https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81 and get a 2 pin molex housing to be able to connect to the cabinet speaker output. Connecting to the cabinet output allows for more settings options and the ability to fade and adjust the cut off frequency that makes a huge improvement to the sound.

#139 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

My $20 sound upgrade
--------------------------
Since this is a home based pin, there are probably some first time pin owners picking these up, and getting new speaker plates for the head might add more cost and confusion than they are comfortable with. Additionally, adding a speaker in the cabinet helps to deaden a little of the sound coming from the playfield mechs. I'm going to try to be as descriptive and simple as possible to help out the entire spectrum of owners.
Parts List
----------
8" 8 ohm speaker - $19.98 (I used this one amazon.com link »)
~5-6 feet of speaker wire - $0 (I'm sure you have some lying around. If not, make a friend. Steal theirs)
2x 0.156 crimp terminals - $0.19 ea https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CT156T (Do you even pinball if you don't have a couple spares?)
Note - The speaker I ordered was is listed on Amazon as a single voice coil 4 ohm speaker. What you get from that link is a dual 4 ohm voice coil that you can wire in series to get an 8 ohm impedance.
*Step Zero - Unplug Your Machine*
----------------------------------------
It's never a good idea to work on it while it is powered up.
Step One - Making the Cable
--------------------------------
Start out by cutting about an 8" long piece of your speaker wire. Separate the pair and strip the end of one of the stranded wires. You can tin the ends if you have your soldering iron handy, but it isn't necessary. Now connect one side to a red connector on once side of the speaker, and the other to the black connector on the other side of the speaker. This is how we set up the speaker to be wired in series with an 8 ohm impedance (you'll see it in the photo below). If you get a single voice coil speaker that is already 8 ohms you can skip this part.
Now with the remaining long piece of your speaker wire, you want to strip about 1/8" off one end and crimp on your .156" terminals on. If you don't have a crimper, this is a pretty decent one I use amazon.com link »
You can then strip about 1/4" off the other end of the wire. Again you can tin these if you like. I also like to use a little heat shrink tubing to mark the ends of speaker wire. This isn't necessary since the wire has a stripe, but I like to do it to eliminate confusion later.[quoted image]
Step two - Making the connection
-------------------------------------
Open up the back box by carefully unscrewing the two Philips head screws on the top of the translite trim. Be careful because the glass will tip out after it is removed. Set it aside some place where you won't kick it over. You aren't the Hulk. Only Hulk smash.
On the lower left side of the CPU board (the only circuit board in the back box) you will see a connector with a red and a black wire coming out of it, with 3 other spaces. This is the speaker output. Unplug this. It is marked "L+ L- R+ R-". We are going to plug our freshly crimped terminals into the left 2 spaces in the connector, so there is one empty space in the middle. You should hear them click into place. Give them a light tug to be sure everything is seated firmly and plug it back into the board. Route the wire through a cable tie, and drop the rest down and into the cabinet. You can put the translite back in place with the trim and 2 screws.[quoted image]
*This game uses mixed monoaural instead of stereo, and has the cabinet channel disabled in the code.That is why we are connecting a cabinet speaker into the left channel, if you were even wondering that. It will get the same signal as the single cabinet speaker. More on that later.*
Step Three - Mounting the Speaker
---------------------------------------
Open your coin door and unsnap the 2 latches holding your lock down bar in place. Lift it out and unclip the start button to remove it. Slide the glass out and set it aside someplace safe. If you have a hard surface, set it on a towel so you don't have a catastrophic breakage. Remove the bolt holding the playfield down and carefully lift and slide it up to rest against the head.
There is already a cut out in the bottom of the cabinet, and there are also 4x posts with 5/16" lock nuts and washers along with a plastic mesh panel covering the cut out. Undo the nuts and set them and the washer aside. I removed the mesh panel since there isn't a speaker ring to give clearance for the foam rubber surround on this particular speaker. If you use another speaker with less travel, you might be able to keep using it. Slide the speaker over the posts. I may take a little wiggle to get it over the posts and sitting flat, but it'll get on there. Use the washers and the nuts to secure it to the bottom of the cabinet. Now connect your positive to the positive red terminal and negative to the black terminal as shown. Note - you can now see the series wiring connector I mentioned in step one. You can now lower the playfield back in place, replace the bolt, slide the glass back in, and connect and clip the lockdown bar back into place. Plug the machine back in and turn it on.[quoted image]
Step Four - Final Set Up
---------------------------
This last part is all about preferences. There unfortunately isn't enough settings (yet) to really do the set up justice. If there is anyone out there (*ahem* DeadFlip ) that could talk someone into reenabling the right-left balance control in a future code update, that would make the whole thing really shine.
to begin, open your coin door, and using the 4 buttons (green is return, red is back and forward, black is menu/select)press:
[Menu] --> [Menu] --> Scroll till you see "Util" --> Press [Menu] --> Scroll till you see "Volume" --> Press [Menu]
In here I changed 4 settings. "Select Backbox Treble Frequency" and "Select Backbox Bass Frequency" I turned off (press [Menu] to select the either of them, change the setting, and hit [Menu] again. I also adjusted "Backbox Treble Gain" and "Backbox Bass Gain" to zero. You can experiment with these until it sounds good to you.
Final Thoughts
----------------
For $20, this is definitely worth while.
But... it could be so much better. The way the software is configured currently limits this a bit. It would sound amazing if we could fade more of the sound to the cabinet (or left channel as we set it up) and turn up the volume. It would be even better if the cabinet channel was enabled, then we could utilize the different frequency cut offs and fade options already in the code and really dial this in to make the t-rex roar. There are absolutely tons of other ways to accomplish something similar, but I don't think any of them approach this price point or level of simplicity. Let me know if you have any questions.

Wowww. You rule, thanks a lot

#140 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

My $20 sound upgrade
--------------------------
Since this is a home based pin, there are probably some first time pin owners picking these up, and getting new speaker plates for the head might add more cost and confusion than they are comfortable with. Additionally, adding a speaker in the cabinet helps to deaden a little of the sound coming from the playfield mechs. I'm going to try to be as descriptive and simple as possible to help out the entire spectrum of owners.
Parts List
----------
8" 8 ohm speaker - $19.98 (I used this one amazon.com link »)
~5-6 feet of speaker wire - $0 (I'm sure you have some lying around. If not, make a friend. Steal theirs)
2x 0.156 crimp terminals - $0.19 ea https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CT156T (Do you even pinball if you don't have a couple spares?)
Note - The speaker I ordered was is listed on Amazon as a single voice coil 4 ohm speaker. What you get from that link is a dual 4 ohm voice coil that you can wire in series to get an 8 ohm impedance.
*Step Zero - Unplug Your Machine*
----------------------------------------
It's never a good idea to work on it while it is powered up.
Step One - Making the Cable
--------------------------------
Start out by cutting about an 8" long piece of your speaker wire. Separate the pair and strip the end of one of the stranded wires. You can tin the ends if you have your soldering iron handy, but it isn't necessary. Now connect one side to a red connector on once side of the speaker, and the other to the black connector on the other side of the speaker. This is how we set up the speaker to be wired in series with an 8 ohm impedance (you'll see it in the photo below). If you get a single voice coil speaker that is already 8 ohms you can skip this part.
Now with the remaining long piece of your speaker wire, you want to strip about 1/8" off one end and crimp on your .156" terminals on. If you don't have a crimper, this is a pretty decent one I use amazon.com link »
You can then strip about 1/4" off the other end of the wire. Again you can tin these if you like. I also like to use a little heat shrink tubing to mark the ends of speaker wire. This isn't necessary since the wire has a stripe, but I like to do it to eliminate confusion later.[quoted image]
Step two - Making the connection
-------------------------------------
Open up the back box by carefully unscrewing the two Philips head screws on the top of the translite trim. Be careful because the glass will tip out after it is removed. Set it aside some place where you won't kick it over. You aren't the Hulk. Only Hulk smash.
On the lower left side of the CPU board (the only circuit board in the back box) you will see a connector with a red and a black wire coming out of it, with 3 other spaces. This is the speaker output. Unplug this. It is marked "L+ L- R+ R-". We are going to plug our freshly crimped terminals into the left 2 spaces in the connector, so there is one empty space in the middle. You should hear them click into place. Give them a light tug to be sure everything is seated firmly and plug it back into the board. Route the wire through a cable tie, and drop the rest down and into the cabinet. You can put the translite back in place with the trim and 2 screws.[quoted image]
*This game uses mixed monoaural instead of stereo, and has the cabinet channel disabled in the code.That is why we are connecting a cabinet speaker into the left channel, if you were even wondering that. It will get the same signal as the single cabinet speaker. More on that later.*
Step Three - Mounting the Speaker
---------------------------------------
Open your coin door and unsnap the 2 latches holding your lock down bar in place. Lift it out and unclip the start button to remove it. Slide the glass out and set it aside someplace safe. If you have a hard surface, set it on a towel so you don't have a catastrophic breakage. Remove the bolt holding the playfield down and carefully lift and slide it up to rest against the head.
There is already a cut out in the bottom of the cabinet, and there are also 4x posts with 5/16" lock nuts and washers along with a plastic mesh panel covering the cut out. Undo the nuts and set them and the washer aside. I removed the mesh panel since there isn't a speaker ring to give clearance for the foam rubber surround on this particular speaker. If you use another speaker with less travel, you might be able to keep using it. Slide the speaker over the posts. I may take a little wiggle to get it over the posts and sitting flat, but it'll get on there. Use the washers and the nuts to secure it to the bottom of the cabinet. Now connect your positive to the positive red terminal and negative to the black terminal as shown. Note - you can now see the series wiring connector I mentioned in step one. You can now lower the playfield back in place, replace the bolt, slide the glass back in, and connect and clip the lockdown bar back into place. Plug the machine back in and turn it on.[quoted image]
Step Four - Final Set Up
---------------------------
This last part is all about preferences. There unfortunately isn't enough settings (yet) to really do the set up justice. If there is anyone out there (*ahem* DeadFlip ) that could talk someone into reenabling the right-left balance control in a future code update, that would make the whole thing really shine.
to begin, open your coin door, and using the 4 buttons (green is return, red is back and forward, black is menu/select)press:
[Menu] --> [Menu] --> Scroll till you see "Util" --> Press [Menu] --> Scroll till you see "Volume" --> Press [Menu]
In here I changed 4 settings. "Select Backbox Treble Frequency" and "Select Backbox Bass Frequency" I turned off (press [Menu] to select, change the setting, and hit [Menu] again). I also adjusted "Backbox Treble Gain" and "Backbox Bass Gain" to zero. You can experiment with these until it sounds good to you.

Final Thoughts
----------------
For $20, this is definitely worth while.
But... it could be so much better. The way the software is configured currently limits this a bit. It would sound amazing if we could fade more of the sound to the cabinet (or left channel as we set it up) and turn up the volume. It would be even better if the cabinet channel was enabled, then we could utilize the different frequency cut offs and fade options already in the code and really dial this in to make the t-rex roar. There are absolutely tons of other ways to accomplish something similar, but I don't think any of them approach this price point or level of simplicity. Let me know if you have any questions.

#141 2 years ago

For anyone still trying to get one of these, a Spokane-area dealer just made one available.

Screenshot_20220113-081114 (resized).pngScreenshot_20220113-081114 (resized).png
#142 2 years ago
Quoted from Flyfalcons:

For anyone still trying to get one of these, a Spokane-area dealer just made one available.[quoted image]

I have mine listed as well for $4300 if anyone wants it cheaper than msrp. I’m getting a rush pro. Great pin though but the family chose to keep stranger things

#143 2 years ago

Mine is also available for $4300 if someone wants to pick up in Austin, open to trades as well.

#144 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

My $20 sound upgrade
--------------------------
Since this is a home based pin, there are probably some first time pin owners picking these up, and getting new speaker plates for the head might add more cost and confusion than they are comfortable with. Additionally, adding a speaker in the cabinet helps to deaden a little of the sound coming from the playfield mechs. I'm going to try to be as descriptive and simple as possible to help out the entire spectrum of owners.
Parts List
----------
8" 8 ohm speaker - $19.98 (I used this one amazon.com link »)
~5-6 feet of speaker wire - $0 (I'm sure you have some lying around. If not, make a friend. Steal theirs)
2x 0.156 crimp terminals - $0.19 ea https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CT156T (Do you even pinball if you don't have a couple spares?)
Note - The speaker I ordered was is listed on Amazon as a single voice coil 4 ohm speaker. What you get from that link is a dual 4 ohm voice coil that you can wire in series to get an 8 ohm impedance.
*Step Zero - Unplug Your Machine*
----------------------------------------
It's never a good idea to work on it while it is powered up.
Step One - Making the Cable
--------------------------------
Start out by cutting about an 8" long piece of your speaker wire. Separate the pair and strip the end of one of the stranded wires. You can tin the ends if you have your soldering iron handy, but it isn't necessary. Now connect one side to a red connector on once side of the speaker, and the other to the black connector on the other side of the speaker. This is how we set up the speaker to be wired in series with an 8 ohm impedance (you'll see it in the photo below). If you get a single voice coil speaker that is already 8 ohms you can skip this part.
Now with the remaining long piece of your speaker wire, you want to strip about 1/8" off one end and crimp on your .156" terminals on. If you don't have a crimper, this is a pretty decent one I use amazon.com link »
You can then strip about 1/4" off the other end of the wire. Again you can tin these if you like. I also like to use a little heat shrink tubing to mark the ends of speaker wire. This isn't necessary since the wire has a stripe, but I like to do it to eliminate confusion later.[quoted image]
Step two - Making the connection
-------------------------------------
Open up the back box by carefully unscrewing the two Philips head screws on the top of the translite trim. Be careful because the glass will tip out after it is removed. Set it aside some place where you won't kick it over. You aren't the Hulk. Only Hulk smash.
On the lower left side of the CPU board (the only circuit board in the back box) you will see a connector with a red and a black wire coming out of it, with 3 other spaces. This is the speaker output. Unplug this. It is marked "L+ L- R+ R-". We are going to plug our freshly crimped terminals into the left 2 spaces in the connector, so there is one empty space in the middle. You should hear them click into place. Give them a light tug to be sure everything is seated firmly and plug it back into the board. Route the wire through a cable tie, and drop the rest down and into the cabinet. You can put the translite back in place with the trim and 2 screws.[quoted image]
*This game uses mixed monoaural instead of stereo, and has the cabinet channel disabled in the code.That is why we are connecting a cabinet speaker into the left channel, if you were even wondering that. It will get the same signal as the single cabinet speaker. More on that later.*
Step Three - Mounting the Speaker
---------------------------------------
Open your coin door and unsnap the 2 latches holding your lock down bar in place. Lift it out and unclip the start button to remove it. Slide the glass out and set it aside someplace safe. If you have a hard surface, set it on a towel so you don't have a catastrophic breakage. Remove the bolt holding the playfield down and carefully lift and slide it up to rest against the head.
There is already a cut out in the bottom of the cabinet, and there are also 4x posts with 5/16" lock nuts and washers along with a plastic mesh panel covering the cut out. Undo the nuts and set them and the washer aside. I removed the mesh panel since there isn't a speaker ring to give clearance for the foam rubber surround on this particular speaker. If you use another speaker with less travel, you might be able to keep using it. Slide the speaker over the posts. I may take a little wiggle to get it over the posts and sitting flat, but it'll get on there. Use the washers and the nuts to secure it to the bottom of the cabinet. Now connect your positive to the positive red terminal and negative to the black terminal as shown. Note - you can now see the series wiring connector I mentioned in step one. You can now lower the playfield back in place, replace the bolt, slide the glass back in, and connect and clip the lockdown bar back into place. Plug the machine back in and turn it on.[quoted image]
Step Four - Final Set Up
---------------------------
This last part is all about preferences. There unfortunately isn't enough settings (yet) to really do the set up justice. If there is anyone out there (*ahem* DeadFlip ) that could talk someone into reenabling the right-left balance control in a future code update, that would make the whole thing really shine.
to begin, open your coin door, and using the 4 buttons (green is return, red is back and forward, black is menu/select)press:
[Menu] --> [Menu] --> Scroll till you see "Util" --> Press [Menu] --> Scroll till you see "Volume" --> Press [Menu]
In here I changed 4 settings. "Select Backbox Treble Frequency" and "Select Backbox Bass Frequency" I turned off (press [Menu] to select either of them, change the setting, and hit [Menu] again). I also adjusted "Backbox Treble Gain" and "Backbox Bass Gain" to zero. You can experiment with these until it sounds good to you.
Final Thoughts
----------------
For $20, this is definitely worth while.
But... it could be so much better. The way the software is configured currently limits this a bit. It would sound amazing if we could fade more of the sound to the cabinet (or left channel as we set it up) and turn up the volume. It would be even better if the cabinet channel was enabled, then we could utilize the different frequency cut offs and fade options already in the code and really dial this in to make the t-rex roar. There are absolutely tons of other ways to accomplish something similar, but I don't think any of them approach this price point or level of simplicity. Let me know if you have any questions.

Great write up!!! What about a sub? You think it's worth adding one somehow?

#145 2 years ago
Quoted from Maxforwardspeed:

Great write up!!! What about a sub? You think it's worth adding one somehow?

I think some others on here have added the pinnovators pinsub board to get an output to a separate external sub, They might be able to chime in on their experience.

https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsub-spike-spike2-stern-kit

#146 2 years ago

Can someone please explain the multi ball rules for this pin? What am I aiming for during the raptor or trex multi ball. I think the trex you are just doing any shot but I can't figure out the raptor one. Thanks

#147 2 years ago
Quoted from JordyRamone:

Can someone please explain the multi ball rules for this pin? What am I aiming for during the raptor or trex multi ball. I think the trex you are just doing any shot but I can't figure out the raptor one. Thanks

For T-Rex you have to hit 7 blinking shots to light super jackpot. Once super jackpot is lit, hitting more blinking shots increases value until you collect at t-rex.

For Raptor you have to capture 5 raptors for super jackpot, but you have to do them in quick succession. I think the shot timer is around 10 seconds. Hitting a blinking shot captures a raptor and resets the timer. If you run out of time one of your previously captured raptors escapes and the timer resets.

#148 2 years ago

BTW Confirmed the old DeadFlip flipper code easter egg still works. I thought Jack mentioned another one on his reveal stream? Did anyone catch it?

For those who don’t know the sequence, from attract mode it starts with Left (L) and Right (R) flippers at the same time and goes [L+R - Lx4 - Rx1 - Lx5 - Rx1 - Lx1 - Rx2]

#149 2 years ago

Also just out of curiosity, does everyone know that there is a competition mode and a DJ mode where you can play all the music from the game? If you hold both right and left flippers for a couple of seconds in attract, it allows you to select these options.

#150 2 years ago

bigguybbr wow, that's really cool, I didn't know those things, thanks.
Sphodgin thanks a lot. I had not figured those out.

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