(Topic ID: 305370)
Linked Games
Jurassic Park (Home Edition)
Stern, 2021
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Karnevil9:but either way I have to find someone who can solder this for me before I can play again ☹️[quoted image]
Before I was comfortable with soldering I called a computer repair place local to me, one of the guys was good at soldering and willing to do little jobs for me.
You might try calling a small computer repair shops and check.
Endicott, NY
Quoted from jeep-mustang:Here is a link to the receiver board (one your holding)
And I’ll post a link to pictures of the transmitter board too.
Looks to me like the little part in the center top part of the board, up near the “horns” on each board are the light and receiver unit.
One sends out invisible light, while the other sees that light, when the beam of invisible light is broken (ball in its path) the board knows the ball is there.
Thanks a lot! So, should I buy a new receiver board instead of trying to repair this one?
Thanks so much for the help, everyone. I really appreciate it.
Quoted from jeep-mustang:You might try calling a small computer repair shops and check.
Perfect! Thanks.
Quoted from Karnevil9:Well, I took the whole jaw assembly apart to get at the optos. It’s not gonna be fun trying to put it all back together. Then I saw the broken solders on the receiver board. I don’t know if I did that when I was pulling it out, but either way I have to find someone who can solder this for me before I can play again ☹️[quoted image]
Yep, that's almost exactly what happened to mine. I don't think you did anything to damage it, they were probably just cold solder joints that eventually failed.
This is a good opportunity to learn some soldering. I'm not very good at it, but kwas able to repair this board easily.
This soldering guide is probably overkill, but a great reference if you want to deep dive. The most helpful tip for me is - keep applying heat for a few seconds after pulling the solder away from the pad, then remove the iron from the pad.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1
Reassembly isn't too bad overall. If you need I can refer to some pics.
Let us know when you get it fixed!
Quoted from PocketHoleshot:Yep, that's almost exactly what happened to mine. I don't think you did anything to damage it, they were probably just cold solder joints that eventually failed.
This is a good opportunity to learn some soldering. I'm not very good at it, but kwas able to repair this board easily.
This soldering guide is probably overkill, but a great reference if you want to deep dive. The most helpful tip for me is - keep applying heat for a few seconds after pulling the solder away from the pad, then remove the iron from the pad.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1
Reassembly isn't too bad overall. If you need I can refer to some pics.
Let us know when you get it fixed!
Awesome guide. Thanks.
Quoted from Jrl80:Hi everyone! Just reaching out to see your thoughts on this home pin. I tried it about a year ago at my distributor mixed in with various cornerstones around it. I remember it being a fun game going against those also on display. I’ve owned a JP premium, LZ premium and ST pro in recent years. I want this to stick around for many years of family enjoyment. Because of the pricing lately, this is the route that’s comfortable for us. My biggest concerns are the mdf playfield and particle board cabinet. Have you guys noticed much wear and tear on the game? I feel like the various parts on the playfield would come loose quickly with heavy play etc. I appreciate your feedback in advance. Thank you all! This is a wonderful/helpful community to be a part of. I feel like I’ll be moving forward on one of these in the coming weeks.
Regards,
John
I am extremely satisfied with an MDF playfield and am a convert. I might even hold the 'hot take' that MDF playfields are better in a lot of ways.
Quoted from Jrl80:Hi everyone! Just reaching out to see your thoughts on this home pin. I tried it about a year ago at my distributor mixed in with various cornerstones around it. I remember it being a fun game going against those also on display. I’ve owned a JP premium, LZ premium and ST pro in recent years. I want this to stick around for many years of family enjoyment. Because of the pricing lately, this is the route that’s comfortable for us. My biggest concerns are the mdf playfield and particle board cabinet. Have you guys noticed much wear and tear on the game? I feel like the various parts on the playfield would come loose quickly with heavy play etc. I appreciate your feedback in advance. Thank you all! This is a wonderful/helpful community to be a part of. I feel like I’ll be moving forward on one of these in the coming weeks.
Regards,
John
Two recommendations: First, keep in mind the rule set for this Home Pin is much simpler than the others you've had. It doesn't make it bad, but it's something to keep in mind. For a family casual pin, it might be perfect!
Second, contact Mad Pinball directly about pricing. It's much better than their advertised price.
Quoted from PocketHoleshot:Reassembly isn't too bad overall. If you need I can refer to some pics.
I found an electronics guy to solder it for me. It took him maybe two minutes and then he refused to charge me. I have a feeling I’ll be seeing him again but next time he’s taking my money!
Reassembly: Do you have pics? I think I need some . Note to self: take pictures before you disassemble anything.
On a sadder note, I made the further mistake of leaving my screws in a place that is accessible to my cats. So, screws are missing. They’re denying it, but I know it was them. So, now I need to go to Home Depot and try to find screws that will work.
My first pinball repair job is at least a good learning experience about what not to do.
Quoted from PocketHoleshot:Reassembly isn't too bad overall. If you need I can refer to some pics.
Let us know when you get it fixed!
Actually, I think I have it all figured out as far as what goes where, I’m just missing the two screws that hold the opto transmitter to the metal plate. But any pictures you have would be helpful to be sure.
Quoted from Karnevil9:I found an electronics guy to solder it for me. It took him maybe two minutes and then he refused to charge me. I have a feeling I’ll be seeing him again but next time he’s taking my money!
Reassembly: Do you have pics? I think I need some . Note to self: take pictures before you disassemble anything.
On a sadder note, I made the further mistake of leaving my screws in a place that is accessible to my cats. So, screws are missing. They’re denying it, but I know it was them. So, now I need to go to Home Depot and try to find screws that will work.
My first pinball repair job is at least a good learning experience about what not to do.
If you follow the steps in this post, it should cover most of it.
Sorry to hear you lost the screws. I always use one of these when disassembling anything with small parts. You can get them at Harbor Freight and many other places.
2Q==.jpgQuoted from PocketHoleshot:If you follow the steps in this post, it should cover most of it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-the-pin-sternowners-club-welcome-home-jurassic-park/page/4#post-6744825
Sorry to hear you lost the screws. I always use one of these when disassembling anything with small parts. You can get them at Harbor Freight and many other places.
[quoted image]
Okay, I cleaned the opto sensor with Windex, got some new screws, put everything back together and put the head back in place enough to test it (without all the outer plastic). Same problem. My original problem still exists: the switch is not registering. Now what?
Quoted from Karnevil9:Okay, I cleaned the opto sensor with Windex, got some new screws, put everything back together and put the head back in place enough to test it (without all the outer plastic). Same problem. My original problem still exists: the switch is not registering. Now what?
Make sure the two optical sensors are lined up directly with each other.
Having them slightly misaligned can happen.
Maybe go into switch mode and try loosening the screws slightly so you can wiggle one of the boards, so you can see if it ever does register.
I don’t own this game, so not sure there’s room to try this.
Just a thought for ya.
Quoted from jeep-mustang:Make sure the two optical sensors are lined up directly with each other.
Having them slightly misaligned can happen.
Maybe go into switch mode and try loosening the screws slightly so you can wiggle one of the boards, so you can see if it ever does register.
I don’t own this game, so not sure there’s room to try this.
Just a thought for ya.
Okay, thanks. Yeah, it’s possible I didn’t put it back together precisely enough.
Here’s something interesting: when I first turn the machine on, the mouth opens and closes 10 or 15 times before I can actually start a game. That’s new, lol.
Brandon, MB
Quoted from Karnevil9:Okay, I cleaned the opto sensor with Windex, got some new screws, put everything back together and put the head back in place enough to test it (without all the outer plastic). Same problem. My original problem still exists: the switch is not registering. Now what?
Maybe trace the switches wires to where they plug in on the board and make sure it looks OK. You can reference the diagrams it came with. I had a sling not not work because the wire for the switch was slightly out there.
Quoted from JordyRamone:Maybe trace the switches wires to where they plug in on the board and make sure it looks OK. You can reference the diagrams it came with. I had a sling not not work because the wire for the switch was slightly out there.
It works! I just played a T-Rex MB with the glass off, lol. I know it’s dangerous, but I was so excited.
Okay, don’t laugh, but I had the opto receiver upside down. I turned it around and now it works. This is because I still have no idea how an opto receiver works. I understand a broken or unbroken beam of light, but I don’t get the part of the receiver that is receiving. Well, maybe now I do, but I’m not taking it apart again to confirm
Quoted from Karnevil9:It works! I just played a T-Rex MB with the glass off, lol. I know it’s dangerous, but I was so excited.
Okay, don’t laugh, but I had the opto receiver upside down. I turned it around and now it works. This is because I still have no idea how an opto receiver works. I understand a broken or unbroken beam of light, but I don’t get the part of the receiver that is receiving. Well, maybe now I do, but I’m not taking it apart again to confirm
Awesome. Glad it's working again!
Quoted from Karnevil9:It works! I just played a T-Rex MB with the glass off, lol. I know it’s dangerous, but I was so excited.
Okay, don’t laugh, but I had the opto receiver upside down. I turned it around and now it works. This is because I still have no idea how an opto receiver works. I understand a broken or unbroken beam of light, but I don’t get the part of the receiver that is receiving. Well, maybe now I do, but I’m not taking it apart again to confirm
That’s awesome!
And good job digging in and getting it done.
There are so many good folks here that are great at this stuff (way more knowledgeable than me).
Quoted from Karnevil9:Thanks, everyone, for helping me out. You are all very generous with your knowledge and time and I really appreciate it. I learned a lot in two days! Well, a lot for me. Thanks again.
Awesome! Glad to hear. If you want to visualize how an opto circuit works, think of the transmitter emitting an invisible infrared laser beam. The receiver detects this beam. If the ball crosses the beam path, the receiver can't see the beam, and the circuit is now incomplete, triggering an event that can be read by the game.
A cool way to test opto transmitters is by using your phone camera. The camera can detect the near infrared emission.
You can try this on your TV remote control by holding the camera up to the transmitter and seeing a purple light in your camera!
Thank you everyone for all of your feedback! I appreciate it very much. So looks like I’ll be making an early morning run to pick it up. Do you guys have the folded measurements of the game? Is it smaller than a cornerstone stern folded up? Trying to see if it’ll fit in the back of one of my vehicles. Thank you!
Quoted from Elephanthead:I just picked one up and it don’t seem any smaller anywhere that matters.
Man, I wish I had the exact measurements. I guess I could always take the head off?
Quoted from Jrl80:Man, I wish I had the exact measurements. I guess I could always take the head off?
Same dimensions as a cornerstone when folder but 2 inches shorter length wise. I just measured mine.
Châteauroux
Quoted from Tmendo:My "toppers", Papo T-Rex and Spinosaurus.
[quoted image]
Nice! I got those too. Waiting to figure out how to mount it. How did you?
Quoted from trueno92:Has anyone taken their home pin and recased the head an added an lcd stern speaker panel and coin op sized screen?
No but you could just make the translite smaller a lot easier if you can get the panel.
Quoted from trueno92:Has anyone taken their home pin and recased the head an added an lcd stern speaker panel and coin op sized screen?
Funny you should ask. I'm almost done with this exact conversion. It is not easy, quite a few modifications to the backbox and tons of parts (small and large). I plan to have a conversion kit for sale hopefully in the next month. Still waiting on a few parts, but the look mirrors the Stern Spike 2 backbox of the Pro/Premium/LE with the exact same speaker panel, 15.6" LCD screen, but of course, the translate image has to be cut to accommodate. Honestly, it's hard to tell it didn't come from the factory this way.
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:Funny you should ask. I'm almost done with this exact conversion. It is not easy, quite a few modifications to the backbox and tons of parts (small and large). I plan to have a conversion kit for sale hopefully in the next month. Still waiting on a few parts, but the look mirrors the Stern Spike 2 backbox of the Pro/Premium/LE with the exact same speaker panel, 15.6" LCD screen, but of course, the translate image has to be cut to accommodate. Honestly, it's hard to tell it didn't come from the factory this way.
Oh man dont cut the translite - just use a pro or le translite?
Does the screen output from the original board work with any monitor? Sounds amazing and cant wait for pictures.
Quoted from trueno92:Oh man dont cut the translite - just use a pro or le translite?
Does the screen output from the original board work with any monitor? Sounds amazing and cant wait for pictures.
Sorry, maybe I didn't explain my mod clearly. I have not replaced the actual backbox on the JP home edition. As you know, it is about 3" shorter than a Pro/Premium/LE backbox, but I fit the full size speaker panel inside so I had to cut the translite. The LCD does not connect directly to the node board, but also requires a work around (in fact more than one). The sizing of the new translite required some creative positioning for the cuts and it tuned out pretty good, but since the t-Rex (top-left) and logo (bottom-left) are close to the edges, some of those areas are trimmed. Your translite could work better as the cuts might not be as noticeable.
Oh! Thanks for spelling it out for me. I was always curious if anyone had 'recased' a home pin into a standard cab but maybe just replacing the head would work. Still excited to see how it will turn out when done! Pls keep us posted!
Quoted from trueno92:Oh! Thanks for spelling it out for me. I was always curious if anyone had 'recased' a home pin into a standard cab but maybe just replacing the head would work. Still excited to see how it will turn out when done! Pls keep us posted!
Not sure what you mean by recased, but my home pin also has standard Stern start button, button guard metal rails, external volume controller and with the new speaker panel I upgraded to 5 1/4" speakers and sub.
Original Stern parts for a full size backbox are not readily available. I checked Stern directly, my distributor, PinballLife, Marcos and others. Many parts would have to ship from Europe. I did price this out originally as an option, but it would be over $1,500 including all the metal box parts, electronics, new wood side panels and decals.
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:Not sure what you mean by recased, but my home pin also has standard Stern start button, button guard metal rails, external volume controller and with the new speaker panel I upgraded to 5 1/4" speakers and sub.
Original Stern parts for a full size backbox are not readily available. I checked Stern directly, my distributor, PinballLife, Marcos and others. Many parts would have to ship from Europe. I did price this out originally as an option, but it would be over $1,500 including all the metal box parts, electronics, new wood side panels and decals.
Looking forward to seeing some pictures. Curious about your start button mod. Did you add one to the cabinet or replace the lockdown bar start button? I would like to mod lockdown bar start button with leaf switch, like Pro and Premium, so you no longer need to unclip the molex plug.
Wow this is sounding impressive, looking forward to seeing the updates. I’m about done with my upgrade to 5.25 speakers with led lighting and I thought that was a decent effort.
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:Not sure what you mean by recased, but my home pin also has standard Stern start button, button guard metal rails, external volume controller and with the new speaker panel I upgraded to 5 1/4" speakers and sub.
Original Stern parts for a full size backbox are not readily available. I checked Stern directly, my distributor, PinballLife, Marcos and others. Many parts would have to ship from Europe. I did price this out originally as an option, but it would be over $1,500 including all the metal box parts, electronics, new wood side panels and decals.
oh i mean, dropping the pf, spike board into a modern lcd stern cab with a lcd speaker panel backbox. I was curious if anyone has done that to their homepin.
Quoted from trueno92:oh i mean, dropping the pf, spike board into a modern lcd stern cab with a lcd speaker panel backbox. I was curious if anyone has done that to their homepin.
First you'd have to find one, they don't sell them. I think the only way that would be possible would be to find a Spike 2 machine that was damaged beyond repair but with a cabinet in good shape. Other than that, the playfield should fit and also provide enough room for a proper lockdown bar assembly.
Quoted from Cwells3290:Looking forward to seeing some pictures. Curious about your start button mod. Did you add one to the cabinet or replace the lockdown bar start button? I would like to mod lockdown bar start button with leaf switch, like Pro and Premium, so you no longer need to unclip the molex plug.
I removed the start button from the lockdown bar (hated that location), then drilled a hole and installed proper Stern start button in correct location using the existing wiring. It looks stock, but man what a tight squeeze to get in in there. Leaf switch shouldn't be too hard to install, then you can easily remove lockdown bar. Since the button wiring is attached to the playfield, I still want to extend the amount of slack to make it easier, but I have the molex connectors positioned in an easy spot to disconnect.
I picked up a JP at auction today. There was some confusion as to whether it was a pro or home edition. The “PIN” stamp on the box was pointed out before the sale but no one knew what that meant. Anyone here know what I have without unboxing?
EABF3FFD-FDC9-4E2A-AECA-4DA671792895 (resized).jpegQuoted from Phesson:I picked up a JP at auction today. There was some confusion as to whether it was a pro or home edition. The “PIN” stamp on the box was pointed out before the sale but no one knew what that meant. Anyone here know what I have without unboxing?
[quoted image]
That’s the home pin
Quoted from STLOkie:For the home pins when you add the sub don’t you have to add a separate driver board?
Hi,
Just connect the 2 wire + and - to the CN4. I put a mass also on it from the backbox.
It looks to work perhaps not perfect i dont really now, first time i do that on a homepin but bass are here now 
Quoted from Phesson:I picked up a JP at auction today. There was some confusion as to whether it was a pro or home edition. The “PIN” stamp on the box was pointed out before the sale but no one knew what that meant. Anyone here know what I have without unboxing?
[quoted image]
Care to share how much the "mystery" pin set you back in the end?
Quoted from beastmaster1981:Hi,
Just connect the 2 wire + and - to the CN4. I put a mass also on it from the backbox.
It looks to work perhaps not perfect i dont really now, first time i do that on a homepin but bass are here now
Thanks. It’s funny, in the other thread someone said they tried hooking up to the C4 connection but it didn’t work. But that was before the code update so maybe it was added after that. I did also find this link for an external sub if someone wants to go that route.
Quoted from STLOkie:Thanks. It’s funny, in the other thread someone said they tried hooking up to the C4 connection but it didn’t work. But that was before the code update so maybe it was added after that. I did also find this link for an external sub if someone wants to go that route.
https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/stern-subwoofer-kits/products/pinsub-spike-spike2-stern-kit
Hi,
Yes i think its with the update. If you can pinnovator is a good way , easy to équalize the bass with external Subwoofer.
Will do some other test when i Will plug the second speaker.
A pinsider member sell à plug and play kit also on the marketplace.
Have à good day
I posted a while back about adding a cabinet speaker. The Star Wars home pin never got the update so their cabinet output pins are disabled. Also in the newer cabinets, the studs for mounting a speaker got shorter, so you may need to order some longer ones from Marco or pbl.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-the-pin-sternowners-club-welcome-home-jurassic-park/page/3#post-67114426B127625-A646-423B-AD45-37343A02A524 (resized).png84878711-90DF-4AE8-9773-FACF66B088ED (resized).jpeg
If you want to add another speaker in the head and have access to a 3D printer, I shared a bracket that works well.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-the-pin-sternowners-club-welcome-home-jurassic-park/page/9#post-6930186
DB502A9D-A25B-47E6-8B95-1C4DE2F53561 (resized).jpegFD56AD47-8F2C-4425-8B3B-0FE6EB12A701 (resized).jpeg
While you are at it, if you have a 3D printer, print yourself a thumb screw to make removing the playfield easier.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-the-pin-sternowners-club-welcome-home-jurassic-park/page/8#post-6863372
232178FC-BCB0-4FFF-84A4-88001E99BED2 (resized).jpeg
If you are a new owner, grab yourself a Cliffy for the drop target bank.
972E6F8E-4421-46BE-A1C5-383EED464822 (resized).jpeg
I made my own larger screen that doesn’t require cabinet modifications way back when.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-the-pin-sternowners-club-welcome-home-jurassic-park/page/7#post-6806205
D3905444-C7AD-475A-91E6-858DFE5CFD5C (resized).jpeg
Lighted Trex mouth is a fun mod.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-the-pin-sternowners-club-welcome-home-jurassic-park/page/4#post-6744825
7E9D93EC-7EE3-40D5-BD5C-EB1FF0F8F309 (resized).jpeg
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