(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (4 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (4 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by CoolCatPinball (4 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (4 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (4 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (4 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by CoolCatPinball (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#13984 1 year ago

Hello guys, I took delivery of my NIB JP Premium on Friday. We have it set up and while really had no idea what we were doing we played it quite a lot last weekend. Unfortunately on Sunday the game started to act up. The T-Rex eats the ball as it had before but no longer releases the ball. Basically once you lose your multi-ball the game just sits idle for about 30 seconds when it must realize there is no ball inputs and then basically goes through all of the mechanism at once which results in T-Rex turning to the right and dropping the ball. (Same place every time) Then game resumes play. Any ideas?

Second issue is less of a deal but the small one way gate wire that you hit when you hit a cruise missile shot through the pop bumpers gets stuck in the up position wedged against the pop bumper cap. I used a razor blade and cut away some of the pop bumper cap and clearanced the wire so that works now. Not a big deal I guess.

Third is more wondering if the pop bumpers work right. I have a 1980 Black Knight which I've owned for less than 2 months and that's my only point of reference. The single pop bumper on BK seems to be a lot more responsive than the three on JP. Often the ball will roll down from the top through the 3 pops and never activate them. Is that normal?

So is there any warranty on these machines? I feel dumb asking that after spending $9700, but figured it's a new machine and would be trouble free. I did call my dealer and they gave me the service tech voicemail but never called back. Sucks that my first post in the owners thread is the game is broken on day 3.

#13988 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

First, congratulations on getting Jurassic Park! It's a great game. Unfortunately, I'd suggest buying from a different distributor next time. Any time I've had an issue on a machine my distributor puts me into direct contact with Stern and follows up to make sure my issue has been resolved. It stinks that your distributor is just telling you to call the phone line yourself, especially since my understanding is Stern is much more responsive to e-mails than phone for support since Covid. The distributor should be doing a better job to make sure you're on track to getting issues resolved.
Yes there is a warranty on the machines. It's listed on Page 65 in the manual:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/JurassicPark_LE_Pre_web.pdf
I'm not sure on the T-Rex but there are a lot of people active in the forum who seem to have good experience & advice on it so I'd think someone will be able to chime in with suggestions on it.
The pops should be very responsive. Are you able to get any of them to fire at all by hand, or are they all just not firing at all? If all three aren't firing at all then I'd guess it's likely a connection issue.

Oof-da....

Stern Pinball Inc (‘SELLER’) warrants only to the initial purchaser of its
products that the items listed below are free from defects in material
and workmanship under normal use and service for the warranty period
specified:
• Printed circuit boards (game logic): 2 months
• Dot Matrix / LCD Display: 9 months
No other parts of seller’s product are warranted.

Looks like I'm on my own. Hopefully the dealer helps out but they are so far away I'm doubting they will come this far. About 4 hrs. Have to give them a chance though, I may hear something tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

#13997 1 year ago

Well, dealer offered phone support but nobody is coming out to fix it. Stern is email only, no phone support. I'll try emailing them. Dealer said that will likely send parts and I can try to install them. So basically for $10 grand I got a project pinball machine. Hell I don't even own a soldering iron.

#14008 1 year ago
Quoted from scootss:

Just arrived and damn it is fun!
I am surprised that three years in... the shooter rod spring it ships with is completely inadequate and the t-rex ramp doesn't register most fast moving shots.
But thanks to this group I was prepared [quoted image]

Same build date as mine, hope you have better luck! Remember, it starts out with people ooohing and aweing and then it turns to running and screaming....

#14026 1 year ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I'd be in touch with both my distributor and Stern asafp. As discussed above, the glass channel is NOT adjustable. Furthermore, it's not fixable. I'd be requesting a new machine if I were you (assuming it's not a problem with the glass itself). I'm not one of those picky jokers that worry about the slightest little imperfection either. But man, if you can't get the glass on and off...... there's a serious issue. Does the playfield raise and lower freely?? If the playfield is tight on one side or another, maybe the cabinet is out of square? That would cause the glass to bind.

My glass is a pain to remove but it can be done. Just be grateful the rest of the game works. Good luck with a new machine, I can't even get an email response.

#14041 1 year ago

If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear what to try. I did check for loose connections behind the T-Rex and everything looks just fine. Almost seems to me as now the T-Rex doesn't line his jaws up with the ramp when he sets down to catch the ball. Maybe my imagination as now I'm looking for something wrong.

Any way, I made a short video of what the game does, hoping maybe someone else has been through this.

Thanks!

#14052 1 year ago
Quoted from vbittnv:

Just posted a set of pingraffix holografic side art blades if anyone is looking for a set cheap.

I'll take them if you still have them. I sent a message on your add. I may not be able to use the game but at least it can look good.

#14056 1 year ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

Don’t you have a premium ?
If so you’re wasting your money.

I do have a premium, why would it be a waste? These are the side art for the cabinet, correct? Mine are just black. Were they supposed to have had artwork?

#14058 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Just spit balling here, but the way it works is that the game knows there's a ball in the mouth of the dinosaur when the ball is blocking the beam from the optos that are in the mouth. If for some reason the ball isn't blocking that opto beam then the game wouldn't realize there's a ball in the mouth. That's the only thing I can think of for why it would hold onto it and cause a ball search every time. Can you check in switch test to see if a ball resting in the mouth is causing that opto to register? Maybe the emitter or receiver opto is out of alignment or maybe the spot where the ball rests in the mouth is slightly off for some reason (maybe the magnet in the mouth is slightly mis-aligned)? Again, just guessing but maybe something worth checking if you haven't already.

Hi, I believe it knows (at first anyways) as it goes through the little chomp chomp deal to show she's eaten the ball. Is there a way to test the opto's through the service menu? I'm open to doing stuff like that but afraid I'll do more damage then good if I really start to tear into things such as removing the T-Rex etc. IDK. maybe easy but I have no clue.

Every new Stern should come with a 4 week class in Pinball repair. lol

#14059 1 year ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

If you go into game specific feature settings go to setting 340, which is middle position bias (or something like that). Going off memory if your trex is going down too far to the right go negative (-1 for example instead of factory default 0), and do the opposite if trex is going down too far to the right, etc. They allow you to really dial in this mech with these adjustments.
Will take a little fiddling, but this helped me tremendously.
Let me know if you arent understanding what I am telling you, and ill try and do better to walk you thought it.

Ok, yes I understand what you mean, a way to calibrate the location. I did find this and it was -3. I've now got it at 1 and it's about perfect. Unfortunately the original problem still exists. Thanks though, that solved another issue!

#14062 1 year ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Where do you grab the power for a tilt topper? Just picked one up second hand without instructions. Thanks!
[quoted image]

You are going to need an adapter for that.

https://mezelmods.com/collections/power-adapters/products/ticket-12v-power-tap-spike-system

#14063 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The Pro apron uses a different method of how it bolts onto the PF compared to a Prem or LE. So you won’t easily be able to install or use it on your machine (which is why the original op is selling it)

OIC, the seller has two listings. I bought the art blades from him. I see he has the apron for sale as well.

#14064 1 year ago

Out of curiosity, is JP considered a hard game to play? Being new to the hobby and not very skilled at this I seem to have a hell of a time hitting any shots. I had a chance to play a 2006 Stern Pirates of the Caribbean at the movie theater yesterday and found it seemed much easier to play. Would an easier game been better for a starter game? Or perhaps I just suck at this.

#14086 1 year ago
Quoted from matlynch91:

I’m sure this has been addressed somewhere in the forum. I just installed Luke’s trex head and something nice apparently done now causes my t-Rex to over shift to the left and just get stuck clicking there. I can’t get through the horizontal test without this occurring. Any thoughts?

What is Luke's T-Rex head? Sorry, I'm brand new here.

13
#14088 1 year ago

Went down to play a quick game before bed and shot 280 million points! I realize that's not all that amazing for you guys but having never broken 100M prior it was an awesome game. Anyways, I'm excited and the wife could care less. Gotta tell someone. lol

1 week later
#14193 1 year ago

Since no one can figure out how to fix the dinosaur on my premium I figured I'd start trying things myself. Seems like this should do it

20220617_163456 (resized).jpg20220617_163456 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#14303 1 year ago

So what I thought to be a problem with the pop bumpers not firing due to sensitivity I now believe is the ball guide being installed wrong. When the ball drops into the Amber pops from the orbit (top center of PF) the guide directs the ball in such away that it never contacts the first pop bumper and coincidentally just rolls through the pops and drains down the main PF via the right outer orbit ramp. There doesn't appear to be an adjustment short of re-drilling another hole or larger hole, either of which I don't think is going to work well or keep the guide tight in place. Basically the only way to get points in the pops is via the smart missle shot.

#14315 1 year ago

Would you trade a 7 week old JP Premium for a really nice LOTR?

#14317 1 year ago
Quoted from mbl1116:

My initial thought reading this was a hard “NO”…but LOTR is really inflated right now so if it’s really nice the current values may be similar to a JP premium assuming you paid MSRP.
I just sold my LOTR and kinda regret it, but I have a small collection and one pin needs to go to get another in. JP kicks my ass way harder than LOTR did, but I’ve played JP more in the few weeks I’ve owned it than i ever did LOTR

Yes, but you just got the JP so it's still the honeymoon, right? I got my JP game memorial weekend (which the T-rex broke the second day and still doesn't work) and got a Stern Pirates about 1 month later. Being all new to the sport, we all enjoy Pirates more. The only use JP gets is when someone is already playing the other. It seems a really difficult game for a novice and frankly my really poor experience with my first NIB game (no dealer support and bare minimum response from Stern) just seems to piss me off every time I try to play it and the T-rex doesn't work. That combined with the ball guide on the PF not mounted right, IDK. I just feel the the quality of the new Stern stuff has gone to hell. Heck you can barely get the glass off the playfield. From what I've read, LOTR was built back when they put more time and effort into it vs the fast food approach of today just trying to keep up with demand.

Seems like LOTR is more of an iconic theme and makes me think that while it's already established itself as one of the greats, it will rise in value where JP I'm guessing won't. Who knows,

#14319 1 year ago
Quoted from mbl1116:

Honeymoon phase definitely, but i got bored with LOTR fairly quickly and only regret selling bc I’m such a big fan of the theme
I’m not a great player by any stretch and i find myself coming back to the game to try and get better
That all being said, your T-rex not working is an absolute gamechanger and based on what else you’re saying I can’t blame your frustrations. The T-rex and overall theme make this a longer term addition to my small collection (and my wife agrees).
If you’re not playing the game and someone wants to make that deal I think I’ll change my vote to “go for it”
Can you send me a pic of the ball guide issue you’re referring to, out of curiosity

I could but won't be home till Thursday. Basically in the top center of the PF when the ball drains down from the outer orbit (thinks that's what you call it) into the pops the guide, I believe, is supposed to direct the ball into the first pop bumper but instead it sends the ball past, never actually causing it make contact and simply rolls through and out and down the orbit lane. I pretty much need to get a smart missle shot to fire the pops.

1 week later
#14518 1 year ago

Can't seem to figure out how to reset the factory preset high scores. Anyone have any ideas?

3 weeks later
#14757 1 year ago
Quoted from FPagnotti:

I liked going with cointaker because they are local to me and will come and set up the machine and add small mods I want done. I just hope I’m not waiting until after Christmas.

Out of curiosity was there an additional charge for set up? My dealer wanted $500 to which I passed on.

#14758 1 year ago
Quoted from robinsonpr:

I think I have an issue on my JP pro. When the ball comes into the pop bumpers from the top is just rolls right past the left pop without activating it. Doesn't activate any pops, just rolls right out the exit.
I've seen some deadflip footage on YouTube and their left pop activated whenever the ball dribbled in from the top.
The pop itself works on coil test and when I toss the ball at it. Sounds like I may need to adjust the sensitivity. Is it an easy adjustment to make? I've never done this before.
Thanks for any advice!

I have the same issue on my premium. Best I can tell is the ball guide (on the left of the ball) wasn't aligned properly when built and it causes the ball to miss the first pop ever so slightly which results in nothing happening and the ball rolls through the pop and out without ever firing one. I'd sat this is the case about 7 out of 10 times. I don't believe its the pop as when the ball enters through the smart missile shot all hell breaks loose. There doesn't appear to be any adjustment for the guide. Can't say that's the problem 100% as I'm definitely a noob but check on your machine and see.

Steve

#14761 1 year ago

Wanted to mention that Stern did finally come through and fix the T-Rex issue with my NIB JP Premium. They sent a new assembly and had a tech install at no cost to me. That's the good, the bad was it took 3 months to the day for the repair. It was an eye opener to see my dealer completely wash their hands of me just two days after I picked it up from them and we all seemed like buddies. They sent me the email address for Stern and that was the last I heard from them. No follow up, nothing. It coincidentally will be the last they hear from me as well. I'm likely the minority with that unfortunate NIB story but I doubt I would ever order new again. With used you at least know it's sorted out and working. I can now finally enjoy a game without the frustration. To bad I suck at pinball. lol

#14763 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

Which distributor was it?

Peter's Billiards in St Paul.

4 weeks later
#14868 1 year ago

Looking at buying one of the mosquito amber shooter rods and it appears to be lit. Will it come with a splitter for the power source or will I need to buy one? I have a topper connected currently.

Thanks

#14871 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

If it’s the official Stern one it comes with everything you need. It connects to the same board as the shaker on the inside left of the coin box area.

Quoted from purbeast:

No splitter needed. It connects to the PCB that is on the front left side of the cabinet.
I have a topper, led light kit, amber shooter rod, and LED flipper buttons and haven't had to use any splitters or anything.

Awesome! Thanks guys.

5 months later
#16116 1 year ago

Noob question on my Premium, when the game shows "EXTRA BALL IS LIT" is there a shot that has to be made to collect the extra ball or does that mean you already have the extra ball? I've looked all around on the playfield for an extra ball insert light and can't find one. I know with my Stern POTC it announces the extra ball and then you have to make the shot to get the extra ball.

Thanks!

#16119 1 year ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Has a great variety of effects used across different modes, to a low worble to create drama, to the quick and slow revving of the engine of the jeep to run from the trex
And the rapid vibration of the trex roaring
Havent gotten further in the game to see what else happens.

Mind sharing what shaker motor you went with? I have one in my POTC which I'm not all that impressed with so I kind of lost interest but reading your post and others like it make me reconsider.

#16120 1 year ago
Quoted from purbeast:

You have to hit the right ramp to get the extra ball.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

right ramp. There’s a EB light on it.
Edit: looks like purbeast beat me to it

Thanks guys!

#16122 1 year ago
Quoted from Joker19:

There are 2 I have seen. I am using the stern one in my JP, but have bought the pbl one. Never had issues with either, but that is my limited experience.
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-factory-authorized-shaker-motor-kit-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-games.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-c-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-games.html

Perfect!

I ordered the Stern unit. I haven't done anything with the machines for a while and I'm do for some fun. Thanks!

#16143 1 year ago
Quoted from kool1:

New back glass and a Tilt Topper. Loving the new look!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like that back glass, where did you find that?

#16144 1 year ago

Hey guys, I got the Stern shaker motor and I'm on the fence. I really like the small hits you get from it like when the jeep spins or the left inlane strobe and such but when T-Rex picks up the ball for the multi-ball the shaker seems to wind up to fast and seems to be a bit to much. more of a cabinet rattler vs a shaker. Noisy and such. I wish there was some way to slow the RPM down.

1 week later
#16180 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Set it to however you like it. You can change settings in the menu and you can also change the intensity of it by adjusting the alignment of the arms on the shaker motor.

So you're saying I can make adjustments to the shaker through the set up menus? Mine didn't come with a shaker from the factory. Does that matter?

#16182 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The settings will allow how often and the duration of how the shaker is energized in response to events on the playfield. It will NOT affect the intensity of the shaking movement itself. That intensity is changed by manually moving the shaker arms to be aligned with each other (most) or 180-degrees out of phase with each other (less).

Awesome, thank you!

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