Placing my titan order and thinking about clear rings on the slings...
Can someone share a pic of their playfield that has done this?
Thanks!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider scootss.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Placing my titan order and thinking about clear rings on the slings...
Can someone share a pic of their playfield that has done this?
Thanks!
Thanks @gorditas. Exactly the look I was going for. I like the black posts near the ramps. Blends in better than some of the color options I have seen.
What mirror blades do you have? Any issues with playfield clearance?
Thanks again.
Quoted from gorditas:I have colored posts on some of my other games, but I agree: in this case, they kind of disappear. Those are mirror blades from CoinTaker. They clear fine, but the screws they send stick out a bit. I have some special screws I bought to try on my next two installs. I'm waiting on getting my hinges back from the powdercoat guy to install them. I'll report back.
Thanks a lot. Your machine looks great!
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I believe Titan silicone will change the play dynamic of this already really fast game. While I love titan and have them on all of my WPC and JJP machines (and flippers), this game has really active slings (many times slings to outlines).
That’s really helpful. Thanks.
What do you recommend instead then? I’ve been conditioned that the stern supplied rubbers should be removed ASAP…
Speaking of runs and games coming soon...
What is a fair price to pay to a distributor for a NIB Premium? I hear of discounts, but not sure what should be expected. I have free shipping and no tax. For context, this is my first NIB and I am also buying a Mando premium from them.
I'm not looking for the deal of the century but also want to make sure I am getting a fair price.
If this is too risque for the thread, please PM me
Thanks.
Quoted from JMCFAN:Quoted from Stormfront:
From what I have seen? A fair price for a NIB premium is about $7600 or so. That's how much I paid for my JP premium and it included free shipping.Same here
Thanks for these and for the PMs I received. I'm in the zone.
Quoted from KissPin:Which mod is that? Can you steer me to it. Been trying to find it
This one unless someone else is doing the same thing...
https://sites.google.com/sfr.fr/yoyokopter-mod/jurassic-park-stern
Quoted from Only_Pinball:Your wait should be coming to an end! I just got word that my JP premium left Stern today.
I guess I should be in this camp, too. Exciting! Any more details you are aware of?
Quoted from EaglePin:If you have an iPhone I've also found that the PinGuy app works well for leveling.
Another vote for the PinGuy app. Through some magic (math!) it tells you which of the four legs to adjust. Highly recommended. (It is free.)
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:lady's voice constantly nagging you
I can’t get the lady to talk to me anymore… anything in particular I need to do?
(The voice slider is green…)
Quoted from Rocanich:Hi, think you activated the mute / silten switch on your iPhone
Ha. Yup! Obvious solution...but not how other apps work
Thanks for the assist.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Net-Net: If you have a tapping tool, use it.
Could you recommend a set of taps?
Quoted from Markharris2000:Take a look at Home Depot triple tap, Model #62532
You had me at Klein. Thanks.
Quoted from dnapac:Anybody have additional info?
Straight from the horse’s mouth…
http://www.pinball-magazine.com/?p=4269
“We must raise Godzilla wholesale price $600 for Pro’s and $500 for Premium/LE. Because all the other LCD commercial games manufactured after we start Godzilla will contain the Insider Connected components, we must raise the wholesale price $200 for these games; that’s about the wholesale price of Insider Connected retrofit kits. (We will soon announce a 6 months discount price for the kits.) All commercial LCD games shipped after January 1, 2022 will increase to the Godzilla wholesale price.”
My read of this is…
- Godzilla is at the new price from day 1
- Non-Godzilla titles bought (received?) between now and dec 31 will cost the distributor $200 more. (They could charge you more than / less than / exactly $200 more than the old price)
- Non-Godzilla titles bought (received?) after Jan 1 will be at the new, higher Godzilla price.
Quoted from Green-Machine:For me it’s more like a timing. A faster moving or slower moving pinball flipped at the same point or location on the flipper won’t always follow the same path. It seems I need to compensate for what the pinball is doing when I flip it. I’m no pro so maybe a more seasoned player could explain better.
In case anyone hasn't seen them, the ABE_FLIPS videos are excellent.
"Perfect Aim" covers what you described but they are all worth watching.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Buy this. Don't even think about it, just buy it. It will become your best friend in tight spots like the one you're looking at.
Absolutely. Another vote. 5 bucks well spent.
Quoted from acedanger:Anyone have any experience w/ these https://cointaker.com/products/pinball-shooter-lane-protector I followed instructions; but it doesn't lay flush & switch doesn't get activated & balls get jammed?? I might just toss it & get a small piece of mylar.
You want this video...
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Any idea when premiums are supposed to ship in 2022?
In November my distributor told me April, but these dates have been moving all over the place for the past year...
Quoted from Heavyk:Do you have a link for the coil stop on pinball life, for the life of me I can't find it
https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html
Quoted from Heavyk:I was wondering what people would think would be the best color for lit flipper buttons and lit speaker panels. I can't decide between, green, yellow, or maybe even red. Any one got pictures or thoughts and which way I should go?
I went with yellow (they're not yellow at all) for the flipper buttons because it matches the amber shooter rod very nicely.
https://www.pinballlife.com/britebuttons-illuminated-flipper-button-set-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-machines.html
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/140#post-5861105
(not my machine, but that looks good!!)
Quoted from athomepinsider:Put a deposit down for an April JP Premium the other day. Should I be concerned about not actually getting it? My first pin so I don’t know how these things usually go.
Tough to say. Depends on...
1) how many stern makes (based on demand and more importantly parts availability)
2) how many your distributor gets
3) your place "in line" with the distributor
I ordered in June. Still waiting. Hopeful for April.
Quoted from troon47:I ordered a Premium on July 3, 2021 and am being told this April. Does that sound feasible?
My order timing is similar and I also expect to be in the April build.
Quoted from athomepinsider:I was told I got the last spot on the list at my local distributor for the April batch. I paid the deposit late last month. Am I crazy to think I could actually have one coming to me next month or May?
Late last month your distributor should have known how many they were getting. So if they are being straight with you, it is possible.
But…there have been changes to allocations because of parts issues. So there is a chance your distributor gets fewer than they thought.
Quoted from troon47:I ordered my Premium last July 3rd and my dealer Saturday told me they're still "keeping their fingers crossed" for late this month...(believe it when I see it).
I ordered mine right around when you did.
So...I hope you get it...but given that it isn't on the schedule...it seems unlikely
Quoted from MrMikeman:Also check the solder points on the optos. Could just be a detached wire.
Also clean with windex on a q-tip. Unlikely to be this on a recent machine, but it’s the easiest thing to try to rule out a dirty opto.
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:Also depends I guess on how you qualify recent
Fair point…tends to be an issue for older games that were in a smoky bar for part of their life. Haven’t heard of opto cleaning much on new sterns, but worth a try.
Quoted from TheNecromancer:Well, dealer offered phone support but nobody is coming out to fix it. Stern is email only, no phone support. I'll try emailing them. Dealer said that will likely send parts and I can try to install them. So basically for $10 grand I got a project pinball machine. Hell I don't even own a soldering iron.
I've been in your shoes. First game I purchased was a total basket case. I knew nothing.
But everyone on pinside helped and I got the game working 100%. I know it is terrible that this is how the warranty works. Sure...new distributor for next time, but that doesn't help you now.
Just post questions...tell us what's not working and we'll help you get through it.
Quoted from Markharris2000:I often wonder how extensive the factory "QA/QC" process is? I can only imagine that they button it all up, plug it in, and play 2 or 3 balls, recording any obvious problems they observe to be fixed by the re-work team. I would like to be wrong, but the regularly posted NIB stories seem to confirm the QA/QC process is fairly minor...
I imagine the process is quick and not comprehensive.
But shipping is a big factor/issue, too.
When my dad received his Mando, there was a connecter that had come disconnected from the node board and the right flipper switch wasn't screwed into the cabinet. There's no way that would have passed QA. It was an easy fix for me, but if he was on his own, he would have been lost.
Quoted from BrewinBombers:scootss where did you see the 'trex fast moving shot' fix?
There are two solutions that I have seen on here.
1) Add electrical tape to block part of the beam. Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/89#post-5454184
2) Add washers to raise the optos. Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5337568
RE: tight glass...My build date is may 18th and my glass is pretty loose and VERY easy to slide out.
So it would seem to be an assembly issue if your glass is very tight...?
Quoted from Manny65:Just be aware that Stern have changed the ramp protector on the T-Rex ramp (the post you reference is for fixing the original setup), such that the new protector now includes a hole for the opto - whereby the adjusted the hole to be slightly higher eliminating the need to use the tape. Note that this opto is used in the Prem/LE's for triggering the T-Rex events and T-Rex catching the ball. With the newer machines over the last year there seemed to be more issues with the ramp-made opto behind the backboard
Very helpful. thank you!
If I have an issue with the skillshot not registering, would that be the opto behind the backboard? If so, is there a recommended fix/adjustment?
Ok…I give up
When you hear “extra ball is lit” where do you collect it?
I have collected it…but I’m not sure how I did!? I don’t see an “extra ball” insert that is lit…
Quoted from Lounge:Pteranodon - right ramp. The amber light on top of the sign will tell you EB is ready.
Ha! Very obvious now. Thank you!
Quoted from Kaijumke:Thank you so much for the advice. I’m very grateful. It had seemed as though my flippers have been slowly losing a bit of power. I’m going to replace this and look the entire flipper mech over too.
May be worth a full flipper rebuild kit if your game has a lot of plays. This fails less often than some of the other components of the flipper mech. I would imagine your coil stop is trashed, too.
Also, a rule of thumb is that if you're replacing one flipper, you may wat to replace them all since they wear at roughly the same rate. That way you get parts from the same supplier/timeframe. Not to mention, when you have ALL new flippers, it's like having a completely new pin
Quoted from troon47:Could this flipper kit possibly help with the massive flipper fade I get on my GZ LE?
Have you tried the PinMonk fans yet?
Quoted from pinheadpierre:For those seeking a helicopter mod, the Matchbox Quetzal-copter is still available from numerous sources. Installation requires basically the same steps as outlined in Mr_tantrum’s excellent directions. I put a few small pieces of heavy duty Velcro under it between the screw heads for the helipad plastic to keep it from jiggling around.
Thanks for this. To me it looks better than the red one since the color scheme matches the blades and original plastic piece.
There's two left here if anyone else wants one: https://packturtle.com/products/matchbox-jurasssic-world-dino-transporters-vehicles-choose-your-vehicle?variant=42999389094141
Use code CAR15 and you're under $20 shipped.
Quoted from jandrea95:https://www.pinballlife.com/pingulp-beverage-caddy-premium.html
Every machine. Color of your choosing.
The new one (3.0) is actually better... can go left or right, front or side. Can be removed in case you have it on the side and need to get between two pins. And it is cheaper.
I was skeptical, too, but Scott Danesi (designed TNA and works for pinball life) just said on a podcast he only recommends the new ones, now...
Quoted from Kaijumke:Black electrical tape over part of left opto (on left ramp). Look it up. It works.
What registers the skill shot? The opto on the ramp or the opto behind the backboard? I have seen conflicting info...
Quoted from sidesmack40:I’m not even sure what the opto is?
An opto is an optical emitter and receiver. Basically, an invisible (infrared?) beam of light that goes across the ramp. When the ball passes through that beam of light the game knows that the ball went up the ramp and you made the shot.
You can see it on your ramp if you look for the holes on the left and right side of the ramp.
(I'm sure someone can give a more technical explanation, but that's the gist)
Quoted from VisitorQ:Ok, thank you. Any ideas or do you know what fixes (if any) Stern has made to the machine since it started production?
The biggest change from the first run was the art was removed from the areas closest to the posts because the original playfields were chipping and pooling. That change was done early on. More recently it seems, the art (in particular the map) looks a bit washed out / less vibrant. These original playfields definitely look the best, but the chipping is a real risk.
Insider connect added in 2022 builds (and right apron artwork removed).
There may be more changes that others can comment on.
My build is May 18, 2022 and I was surprised that they still haven't fixed the opto issues with fast shots through the t-rex ramp or 'O' shot. Requires user tweaking...
Quoted from scottgreenmagic:I've noticed this (with the O shot) and so am curious—what tweaking will make the opto register fast shots through there?
There is a quick/easy fix using electrical tape... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/150#post-6355564
Or a more permanent fix that involves adding some washers under the playfield (not hard to do)... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5337568
Quoted from purbeast:Anyone have any input on this? After playing some over the weekend and getting so many drains directly to the outlane, I am ready to change the posts lol.
Are your posts already in the lowest spot? If not, start there.
You can also adjust the leaf switches on your slings so they are a bit less sensitive (JP is known for having sensitive slings)
If you've done those two things already...work on your nudging. You'll notice that certain areas of the playfield will send it don the outlane...when you see that about to happen, give an upward nudge.
and if all of that fails...get that post genie
Quoted from MythMaker:Brand new out of the box my t-rex ramp shot doesn't always register. It is strange cause it uses optos which are always on. However one out of every 10 ramp shots or so do not register. No other phantom switch hits during the gameplay or nothing noticeable in switch test.
Any ideas on what to check?
As EaglePin said...optos. I had the same issue. For me it was the opto behind the backboard. some black electrical tape on the outside of the ramp to make the opto beam narrower did the the trick
**EDIT. SOLD**
I have an extra Mezel Mods plastic protector set (orange & clear) if anyone is interested. Brand new - was never installed.
https://mezelmods.com/products/jurassic-park-pinball-plastic-protector-set
$34 new + shipping. I'll send to you for $30 total (CONUS).
Quoted from SimplePin:Are these the thick ones or the thin ones?
Very thick!
IMG_0252 (resized).jpegQuoted from BrokenChair:i have to choose between godzilla or Jurassic park pro;; can only get 1... why me god....
I have a premium in both and they are both great games. I would suggest deciding based on two criteria...
1) Are you a beginner player? average? tournament player? Will a lot of beginner players be playing this machine?
- If you're a beginner or your co-players are beginners, go with Godzilla. It is a much more forgiving, beginner-friendly game, but has such deep code and so much to do that you can grow into the game. If you and your friends are amazing players, JP is a more understandable choice - JP is just a harder shooter and the deeper code that requires you to have greater command of all the shots than GZ does.
2) Will you ever buy a premium in one of these?
If so, get the Pro of JP now and Premium of GZ later. The GZ premium is a masterpiece of mechs. The moving T-Rex in the JP premium is cool, but the GZ pro to premium gap is much bigger.
Quoted from ufiti:or do I just need to remove the habitrails above it?
I was able to do the right one without removing the habitrail but had to remove the left one. If I was doing it again, I would just have removed both...
(note that the left one requires disassembling the roof a bit)
Quoted from Markharris2000:Not sure I follow you on this. Stern miraculously provided the necassary access from above on the tower flap to access the left screw from up top. I purchased a long philips head screwdriver to take that screw out from the top. You will see the wireform and roof plastic is actually formed to allow the screwdriver access to that left screw from the top.
I guess my screwdriver wasn't long enough. Personal problem, perhaps?
Quoted from NoDisclaimer:Does trough lighting help much
I found it helped a lot. Very easy install.
Quoted from NoDisclaimer:Did you use lermods and what color.
Yes. In white. Purchased via mezelmods
https://mezelmods.com/products/jurassic-park-pinball-trough-lighting-kit
...but $19.50 is pretty insane for what it is and I just bought it from there because I was ordering other stuff from mezel.
If you just want the light, I would probably order from Comet (they are doing a sale starting on thanksgiving)
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/outhole-lighting-kit
Quoted from Manny65:it's a tight shot!
Hell yeah it is. So satisfying when you hit it. Add on the fact that the width for the shot changes based on the direction the truck is facing.... ::chef's kiss::
Quoted from kool1:Has anyone here added an IC (Insider Connected) to a JP Pro?
Very difficult to set up?
I added one to an Aerosmith Pro and the process is the same. Very simple. Probably less than 20 min in total. They give you a new, generic, apron, so the part that concerns most people is transferring the stickers from the old apron to the new one. No reason to be concerned, they come off and reapply incredibly easily. Only tool needed is your fingernail.
This video shows the process:
Quoted from kool1:I have heard this before. Is there a video on this?
I haven't seen a video, but you should be able to find it in this thread, or post there:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-insider-connected
Quoted from kool1:Any downside to doing this?
None other than the fact that a guest can't step up to that machine and login.
Quoted from dirkdiggler:probably that cool looking raptor pen mod
The mezelmods one? I might recommend against it. I have it and it looks great...but...
- Despite going as carefully as possible, one of the posts on the pit snapped while trying to thread the wire through
- It's applied with tape and one of the sides has become unstuck
- It covers the screws so you can no longer easily change the rubbers
(but looks great!)
Quoted from seenev:I don't think the stock trex is bad.
Me neither. I think they got better over time. The early versions were more green and the current builds more brown. I think the brownish one looks a bit better.
Quoted from spikedbat:Does anybody have any good pictures that they have used to print alternative translite for JP?
I have the premium and I’d like to get a cooler translite printed.
I’m not trained in photoshop to put something together.
I also disliked the premium translite, but wanted something that matched the artwoork 100% so I went with the home translite:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-jurassic-park-the-pin-translite.html
This person also has some good ones available:
https://xianek.eu/
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/14omcKOYhVVpqAgQBjth8Ls_VYA1l2YDc
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:slap/nudge the flipper its closest to. can usually nudge your way out of this situation, plenty of time to prepare as it's slowly coming off the "shelves".
When do you do the nudge? ASAP / high up the playfield?
Quoted from pinheadpierre:What happened to your original? I don’t think the ball has ever hit mine. Dumb luck? Different flipper per?
Mine broke pretty quickly. A slight airball there can crack it. Just ordered that replacement.
Re: T-Rex ramp rejects
Quoted from Lounge:I added mylar to the transition to smooth it out a little more.
I just did the same and it helped a lot. Far fewer rejects and the shot FEELS a lot better now.
Quoted from Joker19:Can you provide a pic of where you put the mylar?
I didn't take a pic, but I cut the mylar a bit like a "T" and placed it like this:
7f20a37c3ecde27c93dd4e06924d4c0e (resized).jpegQuoted from KneeKickLou:Have you tried the Cliffy carbon fiber ramp flaps for the tower and helipad?
Highly recommended. Noticed a difference on both ramps.
Quoted from Heliogabalo:How to play it simplified?
Shoot white arrows to spell MAP (two are lit at the start) and then shoot the trex to start a Dino paddock mode.
Shoot rescue shots to save people.
Shoot the yellow “trap” target to either side of the jeep.
Shoot the shot to capture the Dino.
Repeat.
Lots more to it than that, but that’s simplified to get you started.
Quoted from Killermarmot:I feel like I can nail almost every shot in the game except the main ramp.
Put some mylar from the playfield, over the metal flap, up on to the ramp. I cut mine like and upside-down "T". It helped smooth the shot out a lot.
Quoted from Driz1847:I have the same issue, but with the O shot. Really fast, clean shots to the O orbit do not register, but slower ones do. Would a similar fix with the black tape help this opto as well or something else?
The tape fix is good, but there is a better, more permanent solution.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5337568
(it's easy to do, too)
Quoted from JMCFAN:Thats not the opto set I used the tape on.... the one in the rear of the trex ramp....no real adjustment on that set.... and a pain to get to
Yup. I used tape behind the t-rex and washers for the O shot.
Quoted from RPZ:Here is a pic of before and after, I’m sure if anyone was interested Mr_Tantrum would be able to hook you up!
This is precisely what I have been looking for. Mr_Tantrum - pm incoming
Quoted from jrcmlc:Really crappy they still have the detailed one shown on the website and are supplying something so much lower quality. Imagine if they did that with the artwork on the cabinet or the translite or the building in Godzilla.
FWIW, I believe the colors changed a bit from the early pins (2019) to now. The promo shots were taken from the early games.
You'll also notice that the playfield art goes right up to the posts in the promo pictures. The later builds have black markings around the posts to prevent clearcoat chipping and pooling.
All of these things bothered me originally, but once you get your machine dialed in, hopefully you'll forget about it all
Game trailer is live - gives a sample of some of the new animations coming to every game (not just LEs)
"Catch a sneak preview of the special new code update with the design team this Friday (18th) by subscribing to the Stern YouTube channel!"
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:While new code updates would be nice, it's just a peace offering since they knew this release would upset a lot of people.
They're giving me, an owner of a Premium that I bought more than a year ago, new, FREE code that makes the game better. I have spent $0.
That seems like good news to me, not bad news.
Taking a break from gate gate, a rules question...
On the later paddocks, 3/3.5, I swear I've heard the "hit the set trap" targets but they're not lit. Do I need to do something in order to light them?
Quoted from vikingerik:You have to hit the set trap targets themselves even though they're not visibly lit. You have to hit them twice for some of the later paddocks. First hit turns on the light, second hit completes it.
Excellent. Thanks.
Quoted from Purdue:Why not light nedry with standups, nedry drain, get once chance to hit control room. - ala toto on Woz
That would be very similar to Godzilla, another Elwin game so I imagine he wanted to do something different for this one.
Quoted from pinchamp:I have been playing 1.05 movie code and 1.11 new code all day today to really figure which I want long term.
...
So when you look at all that it is pretty clear for me, even though I love the movie code, that 1.11 is the code to play full time.
I was about to write this same post but you did a much better job than I would have. I enjoyed the movie code, but this new version is a much more complete experience.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Any advice on avoiding this? Just slide slowly and gently?
The only real tip other than slow/steady/gentle is that when you put it back into the cabinet, put one hand under the back of the playfield and lift it over the bump/stop rather than slamming it over the bump.
Quoted from tgarrett09:I just get some ping ponging style rejects on the trex ramp fairly often and not sure what I can even really tweak besides pitch/level to improve it.
Have you tried putting a piece of mylar shaped like an upside-down "T" to smooth the entry in front of the ramp and up the start of the ramp?
This helped a lot for me.
Quoted from ralphs007:I think there's something wrong with my missle launcher.I've only hit the target once since I picked up this game over a week ago.
Possibly the most satisfying shot in pinball!
Quoted from Kkoss24:I didn’t think I would say this ,but JP has officially become my #1 game .I think it’s because it has more challenging shots
I've had basically the same experience. JP is likely the best, but you need to be good enough at it to realize that it is the best
Quoted from Kkoss24:Cliffy has a replacement with no screws ?
Yes...and get the one for the helipad shot as well. Great improvements to the pin.
Quoted from Kkoss24:’ve been playing around with that damn raptor tower and not happy with any of the results .Tried a few different screws ,without the screw with carbon fiber and mylar ,just mylar and nothing is working well .I went by a friends house and made a template of the the area as his plays perfect ,mine is 3/8ths -1/2 off along that ball rail .It definitely needs a screw in it to flatten the flap .
Did you try a carbon fiber cliffy? Or some other carbon fiber tape?
Quoted from Kkoss24:. I did without the screw at first .Used mylar to try and hold the flap down prior to the carbon sheet but the ball seems to be hitting the point of the flap (that area sticks up)and when I removed the carbon I could see it lifting on that side and the back side is still cupped anyway .Basically when the screw is removed it deforms like it was stretched out when the installer screwed it in .Thing is ,I don’t want the carbon sheet down anyway ,it just doesn’t look right .
Yeah. the screw definitely needs to be removed. But it sounds like you're using that carbon fiber tape product rather than the carbon fiber cliffy.
I can't say the tape won't work, but based on my experience and the other posts on here, it certainly seems like the cliffy does fix the problem.
But...if you don't want to look at the black carbon fiber, then it won't help you
Quoted from ExSquid:Eyeballing getting this translite for my impending delivery, any of you fellas/ladies have it and how does it look on the game?
I haven't seen this translite in person, but I can't shake the fact that it just looks a bit off.
Look closely at the red letters within the Jurassic Park logo - in the real logo, the red letters are fluid curves. On this translite, they have bends in them. (like in the J)
Also, that's not the helicopter from the original movie - may be in the jurassic world series, but most people tend to want it to be in the universe of the original movie.
That said, its your pin, do what you like
Quoted from ExSquid:Ok , I seem to have gotten it a couple of times without him having to catch the ball in his Jaw.
Correct. For the first MB, it doesn't need to catch it fully, but later modes do require it to be caught in the TRex's mouth.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:How do you get the Nedry pitlane save to light in the new code?
In short, hit the double scoring standup near the right outlane.
From the rules:
- When Nedry lights now a 'System Malfunction' returns the ball back to you.
- 'Lite 2X Scoring' target hits accumulate to light Nedry at thresholds of 3, 15 and 30
- When Nedry is lit target countup pauses until it is unlit
Quoted from JMCFAN:On my Prem the amber pop bumpers are firing randomly. Guessing its a adjustment but have never played with them before.... ??
Is it all of them? That would be strange.
If it is one, then yes, most likely a leaf switch adjustment under the playfield. Nothing too complicated. You can manage it with a small screwdriver or pliers, but order one of these for the future: https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Quoted from JMCFAN:Hard to tell.....
Markharris2000 comes through with the detailed instructions as usual!
But before you start adjusting anything, make sure you know which one is firing incorrectly. Record a slo-mo video on your phone if you need. Start recording and then hit the cabinet or playfield with your hand. That will usually fire a pop bumper that is gapped too close.
Quoted from dutchi:The first 20 games she was tossing the ball and holding it with a closed mouth. And now after two seconds it falls out on all the events.
Definitely sounds like the wiring is the issue.
Quoted from dutchi:So i have tot take it all apart and to be honest i am little scared for that.
12 years on pinball and owned a dozen games...you'll be fine! Just take your time and take pictures.
Quoted from Kkoss24:I think after playing this now at home for a couple months I can confidently say JP is my #1 firmly.
I had a similar experience. The difficulty of the game made it hard for me to love it. As I played more and got better, the genius of the game really comes out.
I also think that the code update that added the Nedry save (making the game ever so slightly easier) helped as well. I wonder if that also cemented it for you...?
Quoted from kool1:I wish I had a printer - if you do decide to sell these I would be in.
I truly appreciate the new creator making the file available for people who want to print.
But if you want to buy one...they have been available for a long time: https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-shooter-lane-protector
(as with any of these, you may need to make a minor adjustment to the shooter lane switch to ensure the ball activates the switch properly)
Quoted from jackd104:Is it normal for T. rex to make a loud zipper sound when moving horizontally?
Yes. It's a loud mech.
Quoted from Kkoss24:I swear 95% of the times I get smart missile the truck is facing the wrong way and I only make 1/4 of those shots through there. Should I be paying more attention to keeping the truck facing right or does anyone try to go the soft spinner route dropping in the pops?
The left inlane for smart missile will ONLY be lit when the truck is facing left (making it the tigher shot on the right). That's what makes it fun
The only real break you can get is if you get the smart missile shot lit during multiball...you can use one ball to spin the truck while the ball in the left inlane counts down.
Quoted from Kkoss24:Does any perk in the game give you more time like destruction jackpot on GZ ?
No...it's really meant to be a one chance shot from the flipper.
The good thing about the shot is that while it is tight, the feed is VERY predictable since it is always resting on the post and comes down to the flipper at the same speed. Just watch the flipper while you make the shot and take not of where it needs to be. If you miss try earlier/later...
Quoted from golfergordy:Great idea. My JP is out of alignment with the shooter lane by 3/16". It doesn't matter when launching the ball because you need a hard launch to get it to the right flipper and it's easy to do every time, but I would just feel better if the alignment was closer.
My JP didn't come with aligners. Adding them was easy and made a world of difference. It is easy to do and worth the less than 30 min of effort.
There was a good post in this group or in the GZ thread that I followed, but essentially...1) with the playfield down, open the coindoor and mark the locations where the playfield rests with painters tape (height is what matters - for front to back, just find a good/empty spot). 2) lift the playfield and drill pilot holes and install aligners where your tape was. 3) if the playfield is too snug, flatten the aligner a bit. Do one side at a time and you'll be fine.
Quoted from golfergordy:Good suggestion. My JP does have an alignment bracket on the left side, and only holes on the right side. My 1st step will be to remove the left side bracket and see if I can line up the shooter with the center of the shooter lane (it's currently 3/16" off). Then I'll probably flatten the bracket and reinstall it and then see what needs to be done on the right side - maybe I'll use a home made bracket, and hopefully the alignment will be improved. I'll be happy if I get the shooter to shooter lane alignment within 1/16".
Good plan...just make sure that not only can you move the playfield to align it, but that it will stay aligned every time. You really need it "wedged in" between the two. If there's any side-to-side play/movement of the playfield within the cabinet, it won't stay aligned. You can definitely adjust the shooter housing - it's not that hard. I would get two aligners in there and then adjust the housing to center the shooter rod on the ball.
FWIW...my uniformed hypothesis is that Stern knows the cabinets need them, but ran out due to supply chain issues. Neither of my 2022 games had them. Then Stern gets some in, but not enough to put two in each game, so they install one in each. Then, now that supply is flowing again, we're back to two in each.
Quoted from golfergordy:scootss,
A few days ago I loosened all 5 of the screws (from inside the cabinet) that hold the manual shooter ass'y in place. I figured that any available adjustment of the shooter could be made at that time w/o fully removing any of the screws, and it seemed like it could only be realigned maybe 1/16" in any direction (maximum), but I was looking for 3/16". It seems like you are saying that more than 1/16" of shooter adjustment can be done, and to quote you - "it's not that hard". I can't imagine 3/16" of adjustment w/o re-drilling of the screw holes, and I wouldn't dare do that! I won't be able to look at this again for another week, but when I do, I'll completely remove the manual shooter ass'y to see if there's something that allows add'l adjustment which I missed previously.
Sounds like you're doing all the right steps. I adjusted mine...but then again, it was only slightly off after adding both cabinet aligners. I didn't measure so I can't comment on how much I moved it. I didn't have to re-drill.
Quoted from Markharris2000:I just recently did the shooter alignment. I did have to redrill the two red screw holes in the front wood panel, but it wasn’t that hard with a little patience. I wrote a note about it a week ago.
That said, everything I learned about shooter adjustment I learned from Markharris2000 when I installed the amber shooter rod, so I would trust him more than me
Quoted from JorgesArcade:Able to trade my Aerosmith pro and add cash to buy a JP premium on marketplace. Issue is, I have to drive 7+ hours to trade and then drive back.
Is this worth it for my collection and spending around 8200 on machine ?
I have both and can say that JP is a much better game. Much more difficult, but more rewarding. That seems like a fair deal.
Quoted from JorgesArcade:Also, does the movie code make a giant difference ?
It's fun, but I wouldn't start with it. You will benefit by playing the "standard" code with all of the callouts and instructional video assets while you learn the game. Once you have it all figured out, then go to the movie code.
Quoted from System-J:Nothing new from the new code?
There was no nedry ball save before the new/recent code. So, both the 2x target & smart missile options are new.
Quoted from Golgotha:Has anyone installed the awesome Mezel Raptor tower mod? It lights up perfectly, but now once in a while it stops the ball in the wireframe. It is secured with the roof screw to standoff. I have rotated and tightened but the shaker seems to back out the adjustment and naturally it gets stuck during an epic game. Any solutions are greatly appreciated. It did it yesterday and frustrated me so much I tilted it and just turned it off. Ugh
This is a bit of a guess, but I've seen issues where people take apart the tower and when they put it back together, the top of the habitrail isn't in the right spot. Either it's supposed to be inside/under and it is outside/over or vice versa. Disassemble and reinstall the wireform and you may see it.
Quoted from gamble89:Did i lose a screw out of my O shot ?
If you're referring to the hole in the metal, that is an opto that tracks if the ball goes around the orbit. No screw missing there.
Quoted from BrokenChair:im torn between jp and jaws.... not sure which one to get can only get one.....
im in no hurry to get jaws plus the code is still a while away; what would you do?
If you believe the Pinside Top 100, Jurassic Park is the #2 game of all time. Jaws is a fun game, but in my opinion, it's not better than JP, and seems impossible that it would become #1. So, using the (imperfect) pinside ratings, you should get JP.
But...if this your first game, JP is hard and wouldn't be the first game I would get.
Quoted from ExSquid:Scootss have you gone to Patchogue to play JAWS yet? Looks like he's got an LE? Im afraid if I play it ill end up selling something....
I happened to be there on Saturday but didn't see one there then. I was impressed that they had a Labyrinth* and a Big Lebowski, though. Those new games played well, but the rest of the games there don't get enough maintenance. Every other game was filthy, I spotted a broken rubber, broken drop target, flippers that couldn't make shots, etc. I let them know about some, but it always seems like they don't really care there.
As for Jaws, I played the Pro at Jackbar - I definitely enjoyed it and I'm sure it will only get better with more/refined code. It reminded me a lot of Bond 60th. It plays FAST and feels a bit like a single-level game because all of the ramps are tucked to the back/sides.
*Although I could care less about the Labrinyth theme, that is definitely the most excited I have been for a new manufacturer after playing their first game. Definitely feels like a call-back to the 90s B/W machines loaded with interactivity. The coil/motor/magnet count on it seems very high. I came away hoping that they get a theme that I care about.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:I wonder if the sound is tied to the ramp switch or the heli rotor?
The sound is definitely tied to the helicoptor's rotor because it speeds up/slows down with the movement of the rotor.
This is like removing a spinner from a game. Sacrilege in my view.
(but nice for the pro)
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider scootss.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park?tu=scootss and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.