Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider peterg.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from Insanity_Falls:Cool, thanks. Is it also by design that whenever this light is lit, the slings fire directly into the outlanes 100% of the time?[quoted image]
No if that is lit all shots will brick ultimately leading to in inevitable drain
Quoted from vertigo:- after the ball drops from the right ramp loop it bounces of the side a lot of the time, missing the upper flipper and draining often.. this might be fixed by more precise horizontal levelling, although it seems pretty straight..
Had the same issue. My wireramp came out way to high. The ball even touched the top of the side rail. I finally bended the wire back so it would feed the upper flipper nicely. Now I can make the tower shot easily.
I only get 3 max 4 paddocks cleared. How to clear a paddock fast? Is there a trick. Visitor center is so far away.
not even sculpted dino's from china, how much would they cost....5 dollar. I expected a T-Rex roaring at you, or the gates that open with flames when you start the game and get Welcome to Jurassic Park. So many great things to do. Again showing this is just not their primary business. They do not care much.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:For what it's worth, I cant stand the black stern rubbers. They shed black residue all over the balls. The black post sleves are the worst. If you pull one off and squeeze it, you'll find they're hard as a damn rock. Regardless of your preference between natural rubber, Titans, superbands, perfect play, etc.... I'd definitely get rid of the black rubber/post sleves ASAFP. I went with Green Titans on the flippers, clear Titans for rings, and Green Superbands on the post sleeves.
I swapped mine first with green silicon. But it was way to bouncy. So switched it back to the original ones which can take an impact without changing any ball into an airball. No I swapped it again with PU (PolyUrethane) version. These are green but not clear green, I am still testing these.
The problem I have with the topper, beside the $600 is that the art is just a copy of my LE art on the backglass. The t-rex is exactly the same as is the other dino. I think that was a bad decision. Just a lame topper...sorry.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:That said, the game is driving me nuts with fast outlane drains that I can't seem to figure out what sort of nudge will save me. Maybe it's just pinball (and that's a fair answer, I'll still play!), but would love to hear that there is a nudging strategy for those outlanes. It's like the inlane post is higher, so once it gets past that, pretty much hosed a good majority of the time.
Thanks all
First I removed the tilt completely. So ths\is thing will get a beating
I have also very frustrating cheap drains on the right side for the most. Been testing with different posts there but nothing good so far.
The main issue with this machine is the code. And everybody says they love the code but for a mediocre player this is a hell. Not getting to time out a paddock or get it auto finished after ball loss is in my eyes a miss. It can be an easy setting in the code like on GB. Now I will be sometimes stuck in a paddock for 2-3 balls and not progressing anywhere, which is frustrating. Also the code in this way is very lineair. Since the modes on the island are all the same and you will play them al lot. I am still trying to dail-in my machine, so no SDTM drains from the control room. And trying to get the side drains to controllable level.
Maybe I need to learn to play it, maybe this is not my machine? But had this same experience with CFTBL, first I really thought I bought the wrong machine, now I love it and know how to play and know what to expect from the ball.
It will keep me getting back for more, since my high score is really not that good yet. It all still needs to come together.
I added a playfield protector to ensure no craters/dimples get on my new playfield. I can always remove it later if I feel confident. Removal is much easier than putting it on
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I'm curious what your avaerage scores and strategies are.
Most of the time I am between 100 and 300 million, sometimes 700+ and my GC was about 1.3 Billion.
Reaching the Visitor Center is very rare for me, but this is where the points are. I only seem to get there with the T-Rex extraball.
Once i got there on ball 1 without a EB
At the first ball i try to get "C" for chaos and to lock a ball. From there i just try to capture dinos and get EB's. Fossiles happens rarely...
Control Room and T-Rex modes make me drain most of the time.
Glad to hear...my games are also between 100-400. I never reach a highscore above 500+ Hope to get 1B sometime. Never reached visitor center.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Is there any sort of award for the longest possible ball without touching any sort of switch, only bouncing off of and between rubber? I feel like I may have won it tonight.
I had the same yesterday. The dino's did not want to play with me. Even 2 balls right behind eachother missed the ramp and got a STDM. Scores not even above 100. And only 1 great game in over an hour of play. Sometimes I just want to sell my machine.......but then again, maybe it will get better another day. The day before the Ghosts of my GBLE did let me play with them to a 3B score.
Quoted from seenev:How much does HD glass improve this game? Do you guys think it's worth it?
Yes
The raised gate is also really challenging since it can come back SDTM and it will hit you hard And i really like the captured ball. I like the raptor multiball, it feels like you let them out of the cage. Who let the raptors out...who..who..who! Those raptors can really help you get that paddock cleared.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I love it, it's fun to play, probably my favorite theme, and fits well into my collection. I've struggled trying to accel/improve with this game, so tried just about everything, and I've played a lot (3-4 hours at a time). Started per the instructions at 6.5 degree playfield angle, went to 7 degrees, as that was the general consensus here (made the control room and helicopter shots easier, but increased the SDTM and high speed sling to out-lane drains), and then dropped back to 6.8 (another recommendation here), and it works best for me (I think!) But I just can't figure out how to improve, and I brick so many damn shots. My high score is in the neighborhood of 600M, and I can get a few hundred million and 3-4 paddocks (past the T-rex a couple times) in most games, but my big games all come from keeping multi-balls alive, which is quite the challenge (and fun) with 5-6 out there! I usually try to work quickly on the CHAOS, T-Rex is an easy one, and Raptor usually comes from Smart Missile or later in the game. Play the control room modes as they become available and when I have the ball cradled on the right flipper. But the only consistent "flow" in this game for me are really fast drains, usually in the out lanes, propelled my the slingshots (like watching the slingshots play a separate game when they get going), and it's not a very friendly nudge out-lane post. I just can't improve it seems. All of my other games, the more I play, the better I get, doesn't seem so with this game. Maybe I'm missing something?
Feeling the same with this game. I recognize the constant tuning of this game, I want to like it so much but it kills me each time. I think there is a need for easier code. Just loose the paddock and advance (it can be a choice in the settings). In that way the medium pinball players coudl get to visitor centre.
Quoted from d0n:Thank you. It pisses me off that stern could not spend the $16 (surely much less buying in bulk from china) on a quiet fan so their 500 LE customers don't have to go through finding, buying and installing one themselves.
WTF Stern?
I did the order the part myself, around 3$ for the fan. Installation is ok to do. Now did that with all my new Sterns.
The button on the lock bar should that Light up in attract mode? Mine isn't. It works on all lees in test menu. Is there a setting?
I used bulbs, really nice for just a few bucks. I used bright leds, you can use frosted ones then the shadow will be less hard.
16008828848691537022773825023035 (resized).jpg16008828533283677678991760585580 (resized).jpg16008828299279133816008870504671 (resized).jpg16008832115677012752937874937970 (resized).jpgQuoted from RGAires:Ive received a JP2 Stern from 24 August, ive put it already around 30 games, im waiting for a playfield protector, im trying to not play it a lot, hard to do
Star posts on the slings look very nice, not sinked into the clear, also they have already put some washers on some points of the playfield, dont know if this is normal...
Playfield looks very nice and still no dimples, but im sure i will have them, if i play with no playfield protector.
Other areas that i should look closer?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Look I do also hate those dimples, call me OCD, call me a fool, I do not like that cratered look in the light. So I also put Playfield protectors on all my new sterns. Some call me crazy, I do not care. They play great, they are fast, if you just clean them correct you will not even notice them, no dust etc. Very good product and peace of mind. If you do not like it, they can easily be removed. It will be hard not to play for a few days, but you will have that machine for a long time anyway so what is a few days of waiting.
Once Stern gets their act together on these playfields, I will not use the protector anymore. Untill then, protect and stay safe
Quoted from Markharris2000:There is no control logic between the CPU node and the power supply. That means the power supply has no integration with any type of settings menu. This is very common when a generic power supply is used with a computer (the CPU node board in this case). You can confirm this by looking at the connections... just heavy guage power wires. (You would see at least one small gauge control wire connecting the supply to the rest of the system)
Check out the latest video from George Gomez on the Spike system. He also mentioned the loud fan. Very nice and explaining video.
Quoted from Hop721:It seems like there’s no one perfect solution to this problem. I recently tried some adjustments and ended up with my auto launch at full power for best results. Still not 100% but much better. I have a plan for tweaking the forked metal ramp, but am trying to find a replacement first, in case I screw it up in the process. Can’t seem to find one anywhere. If anyone has a clue I would sure appreciate it
Check also the rubber shootertip, rotating the shooterrod some help if the shootertip is not completely in the middle.
I had that problem. Was a bad connector on the node board just below the captive ball. I got fake trex hits. Distributor changed the nodeboard and all was well.
Quoted from RGAires:Ive made a video on switch tests, you can clear see that sometimes the right flipper trigger the opto, more often the upper right flipper.. any ideia to despite the problem.
Regards
Yes, I would indeed start with a Node board change. So get both out. Make the nr 8 the nr 9 via the switch setting and vice virsa. Then put them back in and see if there is anything strange with the flippers. If so your node board is broken. Mine had the same issue the connecter on the node board that connects to the optoboard was broken. Even touching that connecter made the switch hit happen.
Quoted from RGAires:I belive this answer to your question, just simply putting my finger under the board, triggers the T-REX hit....
Unplug that opto board, seems broken. See if anything else hits or just works fine, if so you found the issue.
Quoted from RGAires:Just for future reference and maybe to help others, it was a problem on the opto board(cold solder) just revised the contacts and is working as it should.
Thanks
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:FYI, I just placed my new Jurassic Park lockbar mod in the Pinside market: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/105886
The banner was one of my favorite things on the DE JP, so I wanted to carry it over to this pin somehow.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I like the idea but it is a bit 'flat' for me. I think giving it more dynamic look would be better. Like the banner in the movie. It can curl around the button.
55804940f7b1051d008b569e (resized).jpgQuoted from beelzeboob:Is there a place I can get the movie clips and audio to put into my game?
No never heard of that.......
Quoted from billsfanmd:Im having a hard time getting the C super skill shot. If I take glass off and roll the ball at it I get the 6 million. It seems even when i soft plunge I notice I am getting a 200k Amber award so somewhere I am activating a switch which stops the skill shot any ideas? Ill try again today to see if the ball is hitting something gently coming down to the flippers.
check your switches in test. I had similar issue witha bad connection on the jeep. It hit as soon as I launched a ball. And got t-rex hits almost direct.
Quoted from Deyanks98:Ok cool I have a Premium so that explains the triangles being lit. Will it be the same on the AIQ Premium as well? I'll definitely check out the PinStadium lights. Thanks.
Yes
Quoted from Midwest77:I just did the same. Dropped the sling to 23. Seems to be less aggressive on the famed Stern "sling, sling, outlane"
same here, got sick of that sling,sling, outlane actions.
Mine has the latest movie version, and you can swap, never felt the urge to swap back to the original. The movie scenes and call outs are so much extra. You get dragged in that movie immediately. The call outs are just great.....where is Nedry....check the vending machines Go watch JP the original movie and you will see so much that is in the code. Still awesome. And in my code the events on the screen are in perfect sync with the events you play. TRex multiball, raise the gate, even the end sequence with amber and mr DNA. All perfect.
Quoted from PoMC:A new pinball machine is released. Pinsiders nitpick and tear apart the gameplay, artwork, rules, designer, lightshow.
A pinsider makes a mod based on already created IP. Another person critiques it and the pinsider instantly is defensive and oppositional.
Maybe you should catch up with some reads in this thread and other JP threads. The guy just happened to got over 500 hours in getting the video and music in sync. Numerous hours of getting it right, numerous requests from people to add this and that and all are granted. So I understand that he is a bit defensive of his project. And yes there are some rules to the usage. Especially after the new EULA from Stern. This for all to keep these projects going and enjoy the results. No attack this, just saying...there are always 2 sides to a story.
Quoted from pinopinballmods:Good morning all,
Have any of you ever had the following problem: Recently, on my brand-new pinball machine, I have the letters of the T-REX that light up when I flip without touching with the "newton ball" anchored to the Jeep with a ball in play? Because normally the letters only light up when we contact this newton ball. This is done randomly in the middle of the game. I have not figured out when yet. I also have a "shaker motor" that has been installed which is seriously rocking the pinball machine. So, I also put it now in the weakest mode because it makes the pinball machine tremble so much in "Maximal Use" mode that I thought to myself that it could also damage the cards in the long term. I looked to see if the connectors on the OPTO dual interrupter card were not properly inked, but everything looks fine. I took them off and put them back in case. I was wondering if it was the card referenced 520-7017-72 (MID UPPER PLAYFIELD 48V DRIVER PINOUT NODE 9) which does not work or rather the card 520-8102-00 (DUAL INTERRUPTER OPTO)? Or is it a game bug? I am on the latest version 1.03.
I can't test a new small opto card because obviously it seems out of stock at Stern! ☹. I could also try to switch the two 48V DRIVER PINOUT cards (NODE 8 and NODE 9) which are in the game to see if the problem persists .
Do you have an opinion? Thanks for your help.
Lionel.
i had that same issue with the T-Rex letters, already popping up when I plunged the ball. Connector on Node board was crap. When you touched it it registered a hit. Swapped nodeboard under warranty.
Quoted from MrMikeman:Check that board for loose connections or disconnected wires first.
agree, three going out, not normal. Did you bought the machine new? Any warranty left?
Quoted from swampfire:Parkshow30 I followed your advice, and on the very first game, I had VC flashing for the first time ever! I drained before I could start it, but now I know it’s possible. I was helped a lot by 2 smart missiles where I wisely picked “Finish Paddock”. Also, it may be the first time I hit 2 smart missiles in 1 game.
I got to VC only ones in a whole year. Most of the time I just reach 3 paddocks. I bring the extra ball, the raptors, the t-rex multiball and even chaos, also do the clear paddock but my smartmissile hitrate is below 25%. I always pick the easy route on the island. I would like a setting in the code that when you loose the ball you loose the paddock and move on just liek Control room and t-rex events. So it would be easier for lesser gods to get further in this game.
I have a love hate relation with my JP. It hink it looks awesome, mechs are great, code seems great, theme is really good. But.....I just cant get the shots. I hear all kinds of people saying this is the greatest, but when it does not shoot well. Any others have this issue? I tried all kinds of playfield angles, other rubbers, other flipper power, I just reach 2 maybe 3 paddock. Only once made it to VC. Getting frustrated.
Quoted from chubtoad13:That’s about as good as I normally do on this game as well. I think it’s just a tough game. The accuracy needed is much higher than many other games.
When you say it doesn’t shoot well, is that because shots are being rejected or do you feel they are too tight, or something else?
I can't figure out exactly what it is. Shots are just not making it. Half ramps, hard to shoot. I understand the 'o' shot to be hard. But the ramps are also difficult. It just does not flow.
I started making some adjustments, notices that all posts are very loose. Espacially the upper flipper one, even bit bended. Thta one is hard to reach from below. Also adjusted the helicopter ramp so that the blades do not hit the ramp. Waxed the playfield, thightened all screws. Going to play it a lot now.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider peterg.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park?tu=peterg and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Mt Zion, IL