(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #72 Custom Jurassic Park apron cards Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #230 Custom Apron Cards for Stern JP Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (2 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (2 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (2 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (2 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (2 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (2 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by Scribbles (1 year ago)

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#5592 1 year ago

I’m wondering if some who have played both the pro/premium versions could share thoughts on the raptor pit specifically.

Unfortunately I haven’t had the chance to play either game, but from watching video it seems like they play a little different.

The pro has a cool rattle and release though the control room which I could see being more unique/satisfying than the bashing of the premium.

Thoughts? Anyone actually prefer the pro raptor pit?

#5594 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

The premium is easier to start Raptor since you don't have to be totally accurate with your shots into the pen. I do enjoy a rising target bank a la AFM and Spidey, etc, however, I don't think you'll feel cheated if you go with a Pro on JP. I prefer most Pros over Premiums due to maintenance issues. Iron Maidens unique, but troublesome newton balls, for instance.

Thanks for the reply, I'm not really in the market (yet) more just genuinely curious what people think. As an outside observer, it seems possible to me that Keith's original design for the Pit was the pro, it just seems to fit his style more, and at least from the videos, to play/feel better.

#5597 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Most of my experience is with a Pro, but I just bought a Premium and have owned it for about 10 days now. I vastly prefer the Raptor pit on the Premium. It's just much more engaging and the Raptor MB rules are designed much better around the Premium/LE model where it locks a ball and enables 2X scoring which isn't available on the Pro. You can play "dirty-pool" with the locked ball to extend the timers. I was on the fence and actually had a Pro ordered at one time, but I ended up changing my order to a Premium and don't regret it one bit! Between the T-Rex and improved Raptor Pit it's well worth it. Plus the Premium also has an awesome custom soundtrack available from Timlaw79 (a Pinsider here) that really adds to the game's immersiveness.

Gotcha thanks, I thought the pro mimicked the locked ball by using the control room post- I guess thats not the case?

#5599 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

It will hold the ball in the control lane sometimes but it behaves quite differently than how the Premium/LE locks the ball.
Here's the Raptor Tri-ball rule-sheet (Look at the end section on 2X Scoring)
Raptor Tri-Ball (RTB)
Raptor Capture: Complete the Raptor Pen standup targets two times (increasing by one for each subsequent RTB) to light the Raptor Lock. A shot to the dead end lane will instantly count as a completion of all of the targets. The Raptor Lock (Capture) can only be made as a shot to the dead end lane.
Electric Fence Integrity: After a raptor has been captured, additional shots to the enclosure will weaken the fence and start RTB when the integrity is at 0%, with a shot to the dead end lane. The first Raptor Tri-Ball starts with the fence at 50% integrity. The fence integrity decreases more on shots to the dead end lane. The lightning bolt inserts will flash when RTB is ready to start with the final shot.
Worth noting - you can also start Raptor Tri-Ball for free off of a lucky Smart Missile where you select the option and successfully make the shot.
Raptor Tri-Ball is a multi-phase multiball, with rule elements that pay homage to multiballs in older Data East games:
Phase 1 - Raptor Tri-Ball: Shoot the left and right ramps once each for a Raptor Jackpot. The second Jackpot is worth double that of the first. The Jackpot value increases with switch hits (by how much?)
Phase 2 - Raptor Chaos: The CHAOS letters will light. Shoot all the CHAOS shots (not necessarily in order) for Raptor Chaos Jackpots worth 1/5 of the Double Jackpot value.
Phase 3 - Raptor Rampage: Raptor Tri-Ball becomes "Raptor Hex-Ball”! (or “Raptor Quint-Ball”). 3 more balls are now in play, but no more than 6. Super Jackpots are lit on the right ramp and upper loop, with the base value of the Double Jackpot, and are multiplied by the number of balls in play. The second Jackpot, once again, will be worth double the value of the first Jackpot. Get 2x Scoring ready during this phase, and watch your score skyrocket! Collecting either Super Jackpot will also award you with a Fossil for your efforts.
Phase 4 - Victory Laps: After collecting both supers, all shots are lit for Raptor Rampage victory lap jackpots worth the same value as the Raptor Chaos Jackpots, multiplied by # of balls still in play. Each shot unlights when you shoot it, but you can relight them all by shooting the Raptor Pen center target. However, each time you complete them prior to shooting Raptor Pen, the last one awards a Raptor Rampage super jackpot worth the sum of your victory laps collected after your prior Raptor Rampage super.
Raptor Tri-Ball 2x Scoring (PREMIUM / LE ONLY): On the Premium / LE models, hitting all three targets in the Raptor Pen and then making the center lane will temporarily lock a ball and double all Jackpots collected for 15 seconds. Hitting the captive ball will reset the 15 second timer.
RTB progress is not saved between RTB’s, and during each RTB, your progress does not loop back around to Phase 1 after you collect a Phase 4 super.

Thanks didn't know about that feature! On the pro, does the ball get locked on the control post when you "capture" a raptor? Am i correct in assuming that the premium/le cant access the control room via the pit? If so, is this just the code on the pro being gimmped, or is their a reason the 2x scoring couldn't be mimicked by locking ball on the control room and hitting the raptor targets?

1 week later
#5666 1 year ago

My apologies if this has been answered before but is there a certain manufacture date I should be looking for to avoid playfield/clear coat issues? (Considering a pro)

#5691 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Has there been anything mentioned in interviews or podcasts about why the Pro is the only model with the weird logo mismatch? The dino logo does not appear on the translight and the logo that does, doesn't match the rest of the logos color scheme. Just weird to me.

This doesn’t answer your question but I watched the movie last night and I did notice that in the opening credits the logo was kind of yellow, sort of reminiscent of the back box, though not exactly the same.

Here is a photo, it’s a little more yellow seeing in on a TV


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1 week later
#5764 1 year ago

Any way to approximate the build date of a pro (or learn anything else usedul) based on the serial number on the box?

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#5768 1 year ago

Yea I just have a picture of the box

#5775 1 year ago

Pro arrives Monday ...

#5792 1 year ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

So who makes the best art blades for this pin?

They are all pretty shit IMO, I like the ones on the LE but they don’t sell those.

#5815 1 year ago

Just unboxed my pro- wow! So freaking beautiful. Can’t believe how amazing this artwork is... also can’t believe some don’t like it, it’s such highly quality stuff.

Anyway, question- what color is your T. rex? In photos it looks green but mine is clearly brown.

Also is your t rex solid? Cause mine clearly has the jaw as a separate piece like what I assume the premium/le is like

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#5818 1 year ago
Quoted from ectobar:

The Rex on my pro[quoted image]

hmm it’s different!

#5821 1 year ago

Is there a way to lower just the call out volume?

#5823 1 year ago
Quoted from gblack:

Yea you can adjust speech and music separately in the settings

Do you remember where in settings, I can’t seem to find it

#5828 1 year ago

Any tips for hitting the tower shot- is this meant to be a tough shot?

I can only hit it consistently off the flipper tip when the ball trickles out of the bumpers but I’m having trouble hitting it off the ramp/loop. I am 7 degree incline.

#5832 1 year ago
Quoted from Insanity_Falls:

So I've been playing around a lot with pitch lately and something I've found is that every increment between 6.5 and 7.0 makes particular shots harder to hit. At 7.0 the vertical U-ramps (tower and helipad) are harder to hit than at lower angles. It seems to just be a question of gravity, especially on the orbit - if you send the ball around the orbit, you can see it stop hugging the rail about halfway around. That means that instead of being fed cleanly to the flipper, the ball is actually a couple of millimeters to the left of it so you don't get all the power behind the shot that you'd normally expect.
One way to solve the problem is to adjust the upper flipper to the left a bit to ensure that the ball actually touches rubber when it gets to the flipper, but the side effect of doing so is that if you don't flip, the ball will roll into the left sling 99.9% of the time. If you felt really adventurous, you could even try bending the rail a bit (I did this on the helipad lane so that rejected shots and soft plunges didn't feed directly into the sling regardless of the playfield angle). However, after 50ish games at each angle, I believe that 6.8 degrees provides the best compromise between speed and ball behavior. Every degree below 7.0 makes the control room slightly harder to hit (at 6.5 that shot is harder than the hole-in-one shot on NGG), and given its importance you may decide that you'd rather have an easier time hitting it than the tower. You really ought to put in a couple dozen games at 6.8 and see what you think, though.

Thanks I’ll try 6.8. My misses with the tower are usually hard bricks, not some sort of rattly rejection. Maybe I just need to get better, only played a few games last night.

#5846 1 year ago

What do you guys have your flipper strengths set to? My system came with everything at 255

#5855 1 year ago

Man, I can’t imagine the raptor pit being a bash toy. I love the way the ball is fed into the control room and to the left flipper. It’s like a mini “ramp” shot that lets you keep flowing combos

#5886 1 year ago
Quoted from Skeets:

Do you mean the upper right flipper to to tower shot? If yes, mine flowed much better after tweaking the ramp flap screw on the left side. The ball was actually hitting the screw and jumping a bit before going up the tower. You can shave the screw head down a bit so it stops happening, makes the shot a million times better IMO.

Can you post a picture of what you did to the screw plz

#5897 1 year ago
Quoted from medic7000:

I just got a used premium with under 200 plays. Is it normal to see streaks on the playfield? I’m assuming it’s from the ball. Only notice it if a light shines on it. I’m new to pinball so not sure if it’s normal or if I should do anything about it. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

That looks to me like a ball was damaged and scratched up the playfield. Though it’s hard to really tell how bad the issue is from a photo... sometimes the way light shines can highly exaggerate a photograph. Light scratching on a play field is normal after a while, but 200 plays is nothing.

#5907 1 year ago

Anyone know the diameter/length of the ramp screws for the tower? I’m going to the hardware store to find a truss head screw to replace them but am not near my machine.

#5913 1 year ago

I just realized my tower shots aren’t registering... how can I trouble shoot this?

#5917 1 year ago

I snagged up that rod, it was 159 shipped, thanks for the link!

Anyway, does anyone know why my tower shots aren’t registering? My guess is the “opto” though I have no idea where it is in the tower or how to check/correct it. Thanks!!

#5921 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

Did you notice from the picture it's one of the bad ones with the wrong insect?

Is it? What is the correct one?

#5924 1 year ago
Quoted from medic7000:

I just bought one from game room guys for $139. There may be a few left

You sure they’re in stock? Sometimes they advertise it as stocked but you’re just buying into a back order

#5929 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

check the switch in test; check/reseat the connector underneath.

thanks that was the issue, had to reseat the connector and it works

#5930 1 year ago

I highly recommend disabling the jp system speech and lowering the call out volume to -25 and increasing the music volume to -10.

#5937 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Had a crap ball one and noticed after the new code update they added sound/call out if you do a game reset by holding down the start button.

They added a bunch of different lines for that!

#5949 1 year ago

Should go to the left flipper, hitting the raptor pit and having the ball feed to the flipper via the control room is maybe the most satisfying shot in the game (sorry prem/le owners)

Here is a picture of it helps troubleshoot your issue.

D3AC0BF6-4C9F-4D29-8511-ABB704F555CD (resized).jpeg
#5962 1 year ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

well, in my case that's just why the PRO is NOT the way to go... i call this an exploit :/
i quickly found that easy trick (i'm a player) when pin was just out/available : easy control on left flipper, backhand in the raptor pit, ball exit from the control room, and than same pattern over & over until raptor multiball... repeat
i did that at the "Belgian Open" qualification round, at that time scoring something in the 600 or 700M, from memory giving me the 2nd spot in the day (it was with early code)
i told Keith about that, he knews it, as i was not the only one...
that's why i really want a PREM, the moving gate is the physical key to avoid this (until a software tweak is set to avoid this)

Ehh interesting but for 99.99% of people that is irrelevant. Back handing the raptor pit in the center consistently is pretty dam hard for most people. And like you said, a software tweak to tournament mode could fix this. I would also argue that having a satisfying/rewarding backhand shot is another plus....I still prefer the ability to use the raptor pit as a fourth “ramp” to continue combos. Hitting the raptor pit, getting that little ramp like pause, then combining to the A O or S shot Just feels amazing. This game can be clunky enough as it is with all the tight shots to have a bash toy sending the ball back at your face on top of it. Just my personal opinion though, there are obviously some positives to the prem version of the pit as well.

#5977 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

I wonder if game designers shrug off criticism of Pro features because it's not really part of the game they designed. Some Pro versions are clearly just the Premium versions with things yanked out or replaced for cost purposes. If I had designed JP and people were complaining about the Pro raptor pen, I wouldn't really worry about it because I'd think of it not really part of my game.

Would be pretty stupid of them to design the pro as an after thought seeing as it’s typically the best selling model. In the case of JP I honestly think the pro was the original starting point of the design. Keith himself said that he designed the game with the T. rex head in the back corner and didn’t know what it would do until Gomez said “you need a ball eating t trex!”. The design of the pit with the feed to the control room just feels too specific, too intricate, too cool, for it to be an afterthought... it was built to feed the control room, it’s why things are positioned where they are... the raptor pit on the pro let’s you keep combos going on a game built around combos... just feels like a more natural fit for the design of this game to me.

#5981 1 year ago

got my shooter rod... bug seems a little sloppy? What do you guys think? Would you still install it?

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#5986 1 year ago

I like it! Didn’t realize the light show was integrated during gameplay, pretty sweet.

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#5998 1 year ago

three issues to check for

1. Clear pooling around posts, if you don’t see any- jackpot! Cause you’ve got a better layer or clear than current models

2. The post near the upper flipper can get loose, ask stern for a new one

3. The raptor pit metal switch was improved to a more durable one, ask stern to send it to you

#6003 1 year ago

I’m not really any better then you since my best score is also around 500 mil. But I think a key is to get the C shot early so you can get to chaos multiple easily through the natural course of play.

#6068 1 year ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Feeling the same with this game. I recognize the constant tuning of this game, I want to like it so much but it kills me each time. I think there is a need for easier code. Just loose the paddock and advance (it can be a choice in the settings). In that way the medium pinball players coudl get to visitor centre.

Why do you want to get to visitor center so bad? Just play the escape nublar wizard mode If you’re craving that. Don’t you want something to aim for? If you can score 500m you can stumble into visitor center with a great ball, it will happen...

#6098 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

I just took the glass off and looked at mine under better light and there is chipping in the shooter lane! I couldn't see it before but the clear has chipped away where the ball comes out. What a piece of junk.
What is the expected timeline for wear in the shooter lane? I got my game about a month ago nib, June 4th build. This seems to soon for this. I don't play it that much.[quoted image]

Yea it’s total garbage. Throw it out, I mean it’s certainly unplayable now. If you want I can take it to the dump for you... for a small fee.

in all seriousness though, I noticed the same thing on my game. Ordered a shooter lane protector and won’t let it bother me.

#6136 1 year ago

Dam dude 2.9 billy?? THAT is a friggin score

#6151 1 year ago
Quoted from pinmister:

I really would like to find a Stern Mosquito shooter rod that has the lights. Does anyone have one for sale, or know where I can still get one?

I got lucky and got one on amazon that someone on this thread found. Just makes sure to look every day on eBay/amazon and you should find one eventually.

#6160 1 year ago

1.3k for a paint job? Woof

#6177 1 year ago

Have you tried calling stern and asking them for a new raptor plastic?

#6241 1 year ago

Mine came with a green spring and I had zero issues with the auto plunge or full plunge. I switched to the orange because that’s what came with the amber shooting rod and I noticed that the biggest difference is with the short plunge. It’s much easier to accurately short plunge with the higher tension orange spring- at least for me...

#6264 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

That's kind of like saying the clear coat kept pooling so you started putting almost no clear coat on... Was that also by design?

You should just sell your game man, you seem miserable owning this thing.

#6269 1 year ago
Quoted from sk8ball:

Yeah, weird... I have that same cough


#6314 1 year ago

Anyone else find the A shot (right helix ramp) to be the hardest shot on in the game by far?

I know some people find the O and C to be tough but I feel like I have a good sense of how to hit those. The A just seems to have a mind of its own or something, it doesn’t even look tight, it’s right there... maybe it’s in my head? I do seem to be able to hit it during the skill shot.

1 week later
#6448 1 year ago

i can't wrap my head around 4+ billion scores...

#6456 1 year ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

I'm sure this has been covered, but as the ball travels out of the right loop to the upper right flipper, should that transition be smooth to the lower flippers or bounce off the post in front of the upper flipper

It should bounce

#6533 1 year ago
Quoted from Powerhouse47:

Just got my Pro! Any thoughts on where I should level the bubble? I have 2 boys 8-12 years old. Want to keep it not too fast.

Download the PinGuy app which lets you set the exact incline on your machine, just lay down your phone on the play died near the flippers

#6541 1 year ago

If you want to help your boys close the outlanes

#6546 1 year ago
Quoted from Snailman:

My personal opinion is to never "close" outlanes (assuming you meant to rubber band them completely closed -- vs. changing to narrowest opening is a good idea here) even for the most beginner and young player. It's important for players to get used to the geometry of the game, and the cause/effect of drains happening from going out the sides.
Instead, for beginner/young players, I prefer to put the initial ball-save at max time, and also increase the # of balls per game to max.
Just another option to consider.

I meant just putting them at the narrowest setting

#6586 1 year ago

Is there a way to show a scoreboard for say the top 20 scores? Or is this limited to 4 + grand champion?

#6663 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Just opened my JP Premium backbox to put Tim's 1.02v29 audio update card in, and while I was there, stopped to look at the pathetic undersized speakers. Really? 4-inch speakers with the smallest magnets you can buy for a 4-inch speaker. Really? Anyway, I get the LE uses a different bracket and 5-1/4 inch speakers, but I am thinking of just getting some pretty decent 4-inch speakers to swap in, without any big effort. The Kicker 43DSC40's seem to be a great choice. $50 for the pair and should have good performance in the mid and high-end of the speaker feed.
Anyone else played this low-cost upgrade game? I hate spending another $175 for a PBP or FF full speaker upgrade kit, but for $50 it would seem to be a good economy upgrade. (And I could get a much higher quality 6-1/2 inch woofer for $25 if I cared to)

Did you not like the sound or do you feel the need to upgrade based on what you saw?

#6702 1 year ago

My recommendation is to stop over tinkering and focus on finding the shots, this is a tight game that will expose you on bad days. If you can hit the shots on Monday but not on Tuesday... it’s the Indian not the arrow. Constant tinkering will never allow you to find the shots.

#6704 1 year ago

Screw near GI plastic came lose and will not screw back in... looks like the underside of the screw hole is under the entire flipper assembly.... any tips to fix??

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#6706 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I would assume that it screws into a T-Nut on the bottom of the PF - can you see T-Nuts for the other return lane screws? If it is a T-Nut then it's unlikely that it would have come off the bottom of the PF but also I wouldn't have thought it would have stripped the thread either. I think you're going to have to remove the flipper bat and then drop the flipper assembly to see what has happened

That’s what I figured... what a pain in my ass. I have a flickering GI bulb there too so I’m sure that area is a little mess.

Just such stupid construction to have the entire flipper assembly blocking GI bulbs.

#6753 1 year ago

May be a stupid question.,.

Is there no bar in the cabinet to hold up the playfield when lifted up?

#6755 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

No, there is not. That's what the rails are for. Otherwise, the playfield is in the fully up position.

Hmm ok thanks, quite annoying since my ceiling is low and the playfield touches before going vertical.

#6764 1 year ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

absolutely possible. I watch dontpanicflip in twitch do it multiple times per stream. He uses titan bands maybe that gives it a hair more punch

which is the "chaos" shot? the S shot?

1 week later
#6911 1 year ago

When you get your game take a ball and pass it by the tower lane over the left side screw, If you can feel the ball touch the screw even fractionally I suggest you remove the screw and grind it down until it doesn’t touch anymore. Makes a surprisingly huge difference in the smoothness of that shot.

#6917 1 year ago

Don’t see why you would risk a dremel slip and tearing up your playfield, removing the screw is tricky but doesn’t require removing anything else from the playfield if you have the right tools and patience.

Just remove the screw and use a dremel or anything else to sand it down as much as you can while maintaining the integrity of the screw. If you mess it up you can always go to the hardware store and buy a new screw

My ball was just fractionally touching so I didn’t do this at first. I was never getting that many rejects but when I finally decided to fix the screw the shot became much smoother.

#6918 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Oh man! I get rejected from this shot all the time... Wonder if this is my issue? Can you tell me more about how you ground it down? Did you just sand some of the top off? That didn't impact your ability to get a screwdriver inserted?

Nah I took a dremel to it pretty aggressively. Just go slow and keep testing the groove with your screw driver.

I also practiced on a different screw before hand so I know what to expect.

#6922 1 year ago

doesnt a flat head require a counter sunk hole?

#6949 1 year ago
Quoted from Lounge:

“Risk”... speak for yourself. I had no problems with it whatsoever. It was easier to leave the screw in place to make sure I removed enough of the screw-head as opposed to removing it, grinding it, screwing it back in, checking clearance, removing it, grinding it, screwing back in, checking clearance.... you got the idea.
To each their own. It’s a pinball machine.

Yea 6-8k pinball machine... putting a dremel literally on the playfield at an awkward angle to avoid taking out a single screw is the most absurd thing I’ve ever heard. No offense.

1 week later
#7174 1 year ago

How the eff do I remove this screw from hell?

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#7177 1 year ago


Another question

Do the GI bulbs twist or pull off? One of my bulbs near the flippers keeps going on /off when I flip

#7179 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Pretty common in Sterns. They are bayonet bulbs and twist, but I wouldn't be surprised if you had to remove the flipper plate and resolder the wires back on. I've had to do it to many Sterns games, same bulbs under the inlane guides.

Are the bulbs designed to twist off and be replaced or are they soldered onto their socket?

#7182 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

This picture of the fastener might give you some detail on what is supposed to happen. it may not be the exact one, but you'll see what's going on there

Woof, that thing looks like it would rip up the playfield if I tried to hammer it out. You’ve got to remove two of those to get cliffys in there, as well as remove the entire ball guide. I’m going to hold off and stick with my plastic shooter lane protector for now...

#7185 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

As someone who has installed several Cliffy's in the location you're referring to, its really not that bad.. The playfield is already 'ripped up' in that hole based on the initial installation. At this point, it acts more like a tack than a screw, so you can completely ignore the threading. As someone else said, you simply have to remove the nut on the underside, and tap the screw out. Once you install the cliffy, just line the screw up in the same orientation as it was installed in originally and it will tap right back in simply.

Yes I know about the nut, I got to the point of tapping the screw and it wasn’t budging. I’ve ripped up clear before tapping posts up so I’m not sure it’s worth the hassle here.

#7234 1 year ago

Forget the play field protector, and wax won’t do anything against dimples. I’ve found the dimples in this game quite hard to see because of the lighting and play field art. I suggest getting a shooter lane protector as you can get damage there within the first few plays.

#7253 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

A bit alarmist are we??
Yes I have a bit of missing clearcoat but look at the number of plays... I lowered kicker power at around 500-600 plays.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No I’m speaking form experience

#7258 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

As long as we're all showing pics of our shooter lanes, heres mine. Zero protection. Trough power just got turned down about 150 games ago. It was at stock setting. I think it just varies from game to game.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You’ve got wear on the right side

#7264 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Who cares?
It looks fine, its a pinball machine.
I've never walked away from a deal do to shooter lane wear...

I agree, but some people do. If you buy a NIB game it’s nice to know that putting something there will prevent wear.

#7265 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Like many folks getting NIB machines, I didn't remember that protectors were a good thing until the machine arrived. When the box was still sitting on my doorstep, I dropped Cliffy a note to get some steel shipped, but while I was waiting for them to arrive, I unboxed the machine and then immediately I turned the trough coil down to 195 and then PUT 3 layers of BLUE PAINTERS TAPE (LOL) in the lane exactly where you see that wear! It worked great until the protectors arrived... and made cliff laugh when I told him about the short-term solution.

Did you have a hard time installing the cliffys? I have a set but gave up when I realized I had two hammer out those two screws. Were they a pain in the but? Did they tear clear when you hammered them out?

#7268 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I have installed these before without removing those. They seem fine

really? They seem to have countersunk holes so it wouldn’t sit flush without removing the screws

#7354 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Cliff really should have better installation instructions, seems like everyone asks this same question. You have to carefully push them out from underneath the playfield.

^ And by push them out he means hammer them out.

#7422 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

Are more software updates expected?

Yea at some point. Keith hinted at coop in this thread a couple of months ago.

#7437 1 year ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I recieved my treX alive mod from yo-yo copter ,took about an hour or so to install,came from France in about a week,adds some life to the pro,moves as switches are hit and during T. rex events ,not a premium but a promium and it’s the best that
We pro owners can do,The head sticks out farther like a premium and looking at it you would think it’s a premium
[quoted image]

Nice I should be getting mine today or tomorrow, any install issues/tips?

#7447 1 year ago

Here is a video

It uses the left/right orbits and a bumper switch. It’s also hooked up to the T. rex event light so it works nicely during the events.

#7452 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Thank you for the vid! Does it also trigger in attract mode?

Yes when the t red event light is lit

#7457 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Do you think this can be disabled?

Nope, you could simply not connect it to the trex light and only have it triggered by the switches.

#7471 1 year ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Yes it can be disabled,the T. rex event is the only one that can be disabled!

can you please elaborate? Thanks

3 months later
#9442 10 months ago
Quoted from mlenow:

Not an "owner" yet, but hopefully soon. I'd love to get a Premium, but finding one locally has been a challenge. So I guess my question for owners is: where does JP Pro rank amongst other recent Stern Pros (TV screen or later for purposes of this conversation)? I feel like I've been unfairly dismissing the JP Pro based on all the cool Premium features

JP pro is a awesome and one of the best examples of where pro is the way to go, in my opinion. While the T. rex is very cool and offers a wow factor for guests/on location is doesn’t add much if anything to gameplay and is another thing to have maintain. The raptor pit is the biggest difference though I personally actually prefer the pro pit because I think it adds a little flow by returning the ball to your flipper via the control room.

I would 100% get the pro and if you still feel compelled to upgrade you can do that down the line, though I can almost guarantee you’ll be happy to have extra cash towards another game.

#9445 10 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Ideally you get to try both and then decide. Pro owners mostly say that the prem isn't worth it. Premium owners mostly all say that it is worth it. Nobody wants to admit they didn't get the best possible version. Most folks haven't really spent a lot of time on both versions. Trying a few games on location or at a friend's house isn't the same as having in your house, properly dialed in, and playing it lots.
I personally haven't tried the Pro. I like my LE. The thing about the TREX being "something else to maintain" isn't really accurate. I find it funny someone saying the Data East version is better. That's really pushing it lol. This TREX will fling the ball all over. It definitely affects/changes game play. I've had my game 16 months now with over 2k games played. No issues on anything other than replacing the flipper coil stops, which is a problem on all versions.
Some folks will knock the premium because they can only afford a pro. If you can only afford a pro then buy one but that doesn't mean the premium isn't worth it if you can afford the extra cost...
In any case take everyone's opinion with a grain of salt and really try to get some time on both models if you can. Or watch lots of youtube lol.
They are both great games.

Why isn’t it accurate? It’s a moving mech with a long history of needing tweaking on this thread. Also for the poster above It’s not about the cost it’s about not being able to find a premium.

#9448 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

As I've said before, you are taking feedback from a handful of vocal people on Pinside who have had ongoing issues with their T-rex. There are thousands of others of us who had to tweak it one time to dial it in or never at all. I owned the DE JP, and in that case almost every owner has had one or more serious issues both with the mech and with the various electronics (gear box would wear out, side to side movement would break and circuit board components would have to be replaced, several switches would go out or have to be replaced, one of the relays would have problems and you would have to diagnose and repair those, and a variety of other difficult to troubleshoot issues would occur). I would even say that a good percentage of them do not fully function in some way and the owners just live with it (of course it is a 30 year old pin).
For me, the expense is worth it for a home pin. The extra features (T-Rex, raptor gate, mosquito pops, metal illuminated apron, etc.) and in my opinion the overall more appealing backglass and cabinet art were enough to make me choose a Premium (actually, I wanted an LE but I was too late for that and couldn't find a pre-owned own within driving distance for the price I wanted to pay). I'm not degrading the Pro whatsoever, as it is obviously the perfect choice for many people. Bottom line for me is this: if you are routing the game or if it is for home but you want to minimize your expense/investment and you don't plan on modding it much, then get the Pro. If you plan on modding, keeping it for a longer period of time, and don't mind putting the extra money into it then get the premium or a used LE. Regardless, I think all versions will hold their value pretty well. I purchased my Premium NIB last November, and the only reason I went that route is because it was actually less expensive than any used Premium I could find for sale anywhere, which made it a pretty simple choice other than the two month wait at the time.
Other than the above, if you can't appreciate that many of us think that having a T-rex that eats a ball and then randomly and wildly slings it across the playfield isn't one of the coolest pinball toys ever, then you just don't get it.

Fair enough on the T. rex. And I don’t criticize anyone for seeing value in the premium, I just bought a NIB Star Wars premium because I thought the hyperloop was absolutely a must have feature. I simply believe that from a gameplay standpoint JP pro is nearly identical and is one of the best pro values. The premium features while undeniably cool don’t necessarily transform the gameplay experience- though they do add a nice wow factor. Also I don’t see why you couldn’t go crazy modding a pro...

#9450 10 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Seriously?? I hate to break it to you but Pinside isn’t the end-all be-all of the pinball world. There are thousands of premiums out there. We have a dozen folks or a bit more with issues on here. I’d say the odds of having one that works correctly are pretty damn good. Lemons happen in all manufacturing.
There are also pro owners that have issues due toparts installed incorrectly. Does this mean all pros suck? Of course not.

It’s all good...

1 month later
#9872 9 months ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Got our jurassic park pro swapped out of a location recently after being there for about 2 years. Cleaning things up and found this under the slingshot star posts. I knew we had some bubbling around some posts here and there, but goddamn. What do yall think I should do to keep this from getting worse. I was thinking clear nail polish or something.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I’m dealing with a similar issue though not nearly as big of a chip. Here is what I am planning on doing (others with more experience please let me know if you strongly disagree).

First if you still have pooling in the area I would use Yelobirds ironing method to flatten the clear. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

Then I would use some thin CA glue (superglue) under/on the edge of the chip

Once the glue dries I would apply a layer of clear nail polish to the area

Once that dries I would use acrylic markers to try and paint fill the area as best you can

Then I would add another layer of clear nail polish

Finally I would cut and place a Mylar ring on that post that is larger enough to cover the chipped area

I would probably only resort to using a washer ring over the chip if the chip is so far away from the post where the ball rolls directly over it

#9896 8 months ago
Quoted from twarr:

This has probably already been shared somewhere in the thread, but I did not have the energy to browse 198 pages, haha. I ordered new backglass and apron from Xianek, a polish guy. I am really excited about these, I think they look super cool. The backglass is actual glass, it's not a translite. What do you guys think?
(btw, I am not affiliated with him in any way, I just think it looked really cool and much better than the original)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I hate it, but if you like it that’s all that matters. It does look nice quality. I think Johnny craps art on this pin is criminally underrated. This is not a movie pin, it’s an original theme based on Jurassic park and the JC art makes more sense to me.

4 months later
#11070 4 months ago

Back in the club with a premium

#11084 4 months ago
Quoted from zr11990:


I dont understand buying a pro. They is nothing one them and they dont compare to the premiums. If I couldnt get the one with everything on it I just wouldnt buy it.

That’s pretty irrational. In a world where premiums didn’t exist would you be out of the hobby or would you be ok with a “pro”? The pro is a fantastic game in its own right and oh yea it’s 2k cheaper.

I owned a pro originally and now I have a premium. The premium is a bit better but the pro is an excellent choice still.

#11086 4 months ago
Quoted from zr11990:

If it came down to a LE with all the stuff or a pro I would just wait till I could get my hands on a LE. Every Pro I have played seems boring compared to the fully packed version. As i said in another thread, I played the Pro version of Star Wars and hated it but when I found a Premium really liked it. That is of course my opinion, to each his own.

Comparison is the thief of joy. You sound like someone that buys things just to be able to say they own the “best”.

#11088 4 months ago
Quoted from zr11990:

Not at all. I dont care what anyone thinks of me or what I own. I find the stripped down versions boring compared to the full featured ones.

Only because you know there is a better version out there, pro games are, for the most part, objectively not boring. There is an enormous gap between “boring” and wanting to drop 8k on a game, if the differences between a pro and premium can close the gap for you... well that just doesn’t make much sense to me.

#11136 4 months ago
Quoted from zr11990:

I just can’t hit the helicopter shot and you have to have it to capture the animals to finish some of the modes.

Try getting flipper toppers, like the yellow hazard ones that have lines on them. Then play a few games just focusing on hitting that shot and figuring out on which line you have to press the button on from a cradles position.

#11146 4 months ago

I’ve had a few days with my premium and I need to update my review of this game, it’s obviously a masterpiece and perhaps sterns best game ever. The trex eating the ball adds a whole layer of immersion and importance to the T. rex events, it really changes the games presentation IMO. The raptor pit is better because it’s easier to start multiball, though I wish they had kept the control room return to the flipper from the pro somehow. Anyway, I am beyond happy I decided to buy this game again, it will be one of the last to leave for sure.

1 week later
#11191 4 months ago

Caved and bought a lior trex that was listed on the market place. It definitely looks better and is more immersive, not sure it’s worth 400 bucks but this game is bolted so whatever

B5F3E124-8A85-4815-9F76-9A0B1084D8C8 (resized).jpeg
#11239 3 months ago
Quoted from zr11990:

I doubled my highest score this morning. A friend came over last night and took away my grand champion score so this morning I got up determined to take his name off. I got a score of 650,000,000, not the exact number of course but for me thats pretty good. Its nothing compared to the high scores on this site but its good for me.

That’s a good score

1 month later
#11685 77 days ago

This fell out of my raptor pit when trying to get my raptor out… any idea where it goes?

D2EBCD8D-5925-4FF5-B885-292E392FF61C (resized).jpeg
#11688 77 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Did you get your raptor out?


#11689 77 days ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

It's the "plastic protector" for the front edge of the pit. Goes under the front of the "roof" plastic, post to post.

Thanks, could you give me more detail please, any way you could take a photo? I appreciate it

#11690 77 days ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

It's the "plastic protector" for the front edge of the pit. Goes under the front of the "roof" plastic, post to post.

Ah I get it, thanks!

#11696 76 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

How hard was it? Mine will not straighten up at all... need to get with Stern for a replacement...

It’s annoying but not hard, just remove enough screws so you can lift the plastic. You need to get under the plastic to hold down the screw or bolts underneath. Mine was crooked too, I actually moved it forward and put the left leg under the post for the clear plastic to kind of straighten him out, see below

2EDF1637-457B-422A-AE03-BB3CB2349ED0 (resized).jpeg
#11698 76 days ago

Original code is better, this game is very intentional and cohesive…

#11705 76 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

A small minority..

Game has nothing to do with the movie…

2 months later
#12270 12 days ago

Is there a setting I can change to make T. rex multiball require a shot into the mouth to start? I don’t like that I can “accidentally” start mb by just hitting the T. rex

#12340 8 days ago

I don’t think the stock raptor looks cheap at all.

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