Quoted from andrewket:
I wish Stern would allow us to backorder the shooter knob. I’ve been trying every day for 1.5 weeks...
I’m not sure how some of you ordered last weekend.
I tried ordering the shooter this morning and..... It WORKED!!
Quoted from EightBallTexas:
I cant seem to break 600 mil. What the hell am I doing wrong. lol
It'll "just happen" at some point. I lucked out and couldn't miss my shots (I usually brick them a lot), stacked a few modes then started chaos mb. WOW. My score doubled in no time and I ended with 1.2B+
It also depends on what settings ppl change on their games, such as unlimited EBs, EB award instead of credit, multiple replay levels. It's difficult to compare if you don't know what settings have been changed.
A 3-ball per game can quickly turn into an 7-8-9 ball game depending on those settings.
If you have everything on factory defaults then it's much harder!
As for me, it's MY game, I paid for it, I will do what I want (like open the goodie bag and change settings). I have it set to award EBs instead of credits.
You have to keep things in perspective when you read about issues here on pinside. A dozen people having issues and writing about it here doesn't make it "a known issue" or a chronic problem for all machines. How many hundreds/thousands of games are out there???
There are quality assurance issues on all Stern pins (Pro, Prem, LE). They're under pressure to pump'em out fast and they cut corners on QA. I have had no problems with my TREX (LE), but have had the loose post by the upper flipper, and a few other loose items that I had to re-install(after finding screws/nuts in the cabinet) or re-tighten. I also chose to re-align all 3 flippers and the ball guides to make it buttery smooth.
I certainly don't think I made the wrong choice. Mind you I pretty much would never buy any PRO model of the Stern lineup. Cost cutting removal of mechs or features is a turn off for me. If that means I can't afford then so be it.
I don't think you will regret it if you go for it. Awesome pin!!
Quoted from jdroc:
I've been meaning to ask this for a week or so...where are the flippers supposed to be aligned? I believe they came from factory with the top of the bat aligned with the guide hole. At some point I was having major frustration being able to hit the C and S shots and worked with the flipper alignments and moved them so the bats are centered on the guide holes and parallel with the inlane...It took about 1 minute to realize that was not correct and it was too high (glass off couldn't hit C or S from the tip of the flipper. Based on that, I tried to re-align back to factory but it got me thinking that I don't know where they are *supposed* to be lined up and I couldn't find anything in the user manual.
SO, relative to the guide holes (or for upper, guide hole/post) are each of the flippers meant to be aligned?
I was having issues making those 2 side shots also. I put the game at the recommended 7 degree angle and aligned the flippers centered on the guide holes. Works better for me now although they are still tough shots, especially the helipad shot. Flipper seems too weak. Ordered coil stops in case this is the issue. My upper flipper isn't quite centered with the guide hole but close. I am not having STDM issues even though the orbit shot down the flipper doesn't touch the post but the ball does travel fast down to the right flipper. I may move slightly lower like it's meant to be so that the ball does kiss the post and go to the left flipper. I do find my tower and orbit shots from the upper flipper are more consistent though.
My ball guides needed to be slightly moved. They were too low and the ball was bouncing up when hitting the flipper. Loosened the guides and moved them slightly higher then re-tightened. No more bounce.
I disagree!! The threads are already so large people are constantly asking the same questions over and over. Nobody reads through already. Imagine if it was twice as long!!
Also there are issues which are very much related to the mechs on the premium/le. If i was a pro owner i wouldn’t care to read all that stuff.
And don't forget the daily "How do I adjust the T-REX?" question. Even though it's in the key posts.
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:
I hate being one of "those guys", and I am asking so I can prevent it in the future. As someone who is guilty of asking this... where?
When I look at the key posts, it only shows:[quoted image]
We were talking about that “other” thread. The one about JP prem/le owners. Here’s their key posts:
TOPIC INDEX (KEY POSTS)
9 key posts have been marked in this topic
Post #622 KME posts on TREX adjustments. Posted by sk8ball (71 days ago)
Post #885 More info on aligning the TREX. Posted by pickleric (65 days ago)
Post #1396 Shooter fix Posted by Chambahz (49 days ago)
Post #1619 read before dismantling the raptor Posted by timlah79 (41 days ago)
Post #1830 KME gives info on how to adjust the T-Rex. Posted by sk8ball (38 days ago)
Post #2358 TREX Adjustment info Posted by imagamejunky (27 days ago)
Post #2625 Adjusting the raptor pit. Posted by yancy (21 days ago)
Post #2994 How to Remove TREX Head and also fix Jaw Screw that came out/loose Posted by f3honda4me (9 days ago)
Post #3326 Amber Bonus rules and details Posted by fooflighter (2 hours ago)
Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!
Edit: ectobar beat me to it.. lol
Quoted from mikeflan:
Not specific to the LE or premium. Just had the same thing happen on my Pro. I had T-rex, going for the first paddock and hit the chaos target from the smart missle. Game reset. Bummer.
You'd think that for a major issue like this they would issue a patch ASAP. like .95.1 or something, especially when Keith has stated it's fixed.. For home use it's annoying but not too terrible. However for commercial operators having a machine that resets is really shitty. Come on Stern...
Quoted from fooflighter:
2x's = too dark..
I appreciate the light show to highlight when 2x playfield scoring occurs, but does anyone else find the blackout a little long?
I mean are all of the the lights going out really necessary? It usually happens when I least expect it causing drains...
I usually play in the dark or very low ambient light and like the GI of the playfield...
Same here. Didn't realize it was to highlight the 2X event. It's a bit long at the start of TREX multiball too if Sue didn't catch the ball. You end up playing in total darkness for a good 10 seconds. Not the end of the world cause if you drain it comes back with the multiball but still surprizing and a bit annoying. Fixable in code for sure. If TREX multiball is triggered+dino doesn't have the ball=set GI to 30% instead of 0%.
Quoted from Munsters:
Last few days the rex takes the ball much less often. While he thinks he's holding the ball because the multiball mode starts.
See his mouth, is it too far to the left?[quoted image]
This has been discussed previously. Trex doesnt have to catch the ball for the multiball. It starts with the ramp opto. All other trex modes it has to catch the ball.
Quoted from Scribbles:
My understanding is that the LE owners prefer the sound of the game when set on 8 ohm. Then, for some reason, in the .95 code, stern decided to make the machine default back to 4 ohm every time the machine was turned on, thusly making the game "sound like shit comparitively". Lol. Bad move on Sterns part. Now apparently, it will stay where the owner sets it. Bravo Stern!
Meh. I got tired of resetting to 8 ohms every time so I adjusted all the gains for the backbox and cabinet speakers with the backbox set at 4 ohms. Sounds as nice as it did when 8 ohms except volume is set at 30 now instead of 20.
Quoted from GamerRick:
So then what is the verdict on speaker settings for LE owners? Is it supposed to be set at 4 ohms? All I know is before the .95 code update my speakers always sounded loud and clear. After the .95 update the sound was all washed out and. Tied. It sounded terrible. Only then did I reset to 8 ohms. So was it at 4 earlier and they just messed up .95 or was it at 8 earlier. I don’t get it.
Where should we set it?
LEs have 4 ohm speakers. It was set at 8 before .95. It should be set at 4 ohms. You can then tweak the treble and base gains on the backbox(boost) and cabinet(reduce) to make it sound like before.. or just leave at 8 ohms even though it’s the incorrect setting for the speakers. Overall volume will need to be higher if you go 4 ohms.
Quoted from trk12fire:
This might fix the problem, but then I'm missing my Stern replay chirp when someone wins a game. Since the game is on location, it's even more important to have it on. It used to work, not sure what happened.
You could always install a real knocker. Loud as hell (loud enough for me to dislike it in home use). Doesn't mess with audio volume.
Quoted from Flipstream:
works. Maybe the Dilophosaurus spitting sound during the replay animation combines with the "beep kicker" sound on a single track which gets over-processed with a temporary kicker volume increase. The music track seemed ok in the audio background, just temporarily louder like everything else.
I get a significant increase in volume when the Raptor Multiball is ready to go (Gate flashing). The raptor music is unbearably loud and everything else also. I usually try to start it quick just to get the volume back down to normal.
Quoted from tmfeuerh:
Anyone having sound issues possibly related to .96 code? It sounds very mono even at 25 sound level....lots of base and voices are not crisp.
My only sound issue has been there for 0.95 also is the super loud volume for the raptor mutliball ready music.
Did you confirm that your backbox speaker setting is 8 ohms? It may have been changed to 4... Go to the Service Menu. It's in UTIL. Scroll right to VOL and check the settings.
Quoted from Scribbles:
Mine had that right out of the box. It's like a faint spider web effect, or like the plastic itself has lots of micro cracks in it. It's not in the clear coat, just the inserts themselves. Since it's just the clear dinosaur inserts. I figured it was just an intentional frosted look on the clear inserts. I havnt noticed it getting any worse.
Yes I don't worry or care about that. Someone asked for pics because they were concerned about insert "cracking". Pretty sure they meant the crazing we see. It's pretty common.
You can also see the PF wood grain in the clearcoat in my pic. Once again.. Don't care. It's not wearing and it's not a priceless piece of art. It's a pinball machine... lol.
Quoted from Flipstream:
It was me that brought up the question initially. It is crazing, and some of my inserts look just like what you
posted. I'm still learning these sorts of details as I'm getting deeper into the hobby and didn't know crazing is somewhat normal.
JP is my first NIB table, and with the other reported JP playfield issues combined with not seeing this on my other two tables, I was concerned this was a bigger issue than it really is. I'm a player, not a collector, I'm just doing my best to take care of my pins and learning as I go...
I wouldn't call it "normal" but it does happen. Although I've owned many pins in my previous go at his hobby, JP was my first NIB also so I was a bit surprised about the tweaks/"repairs" to do right out of the box but I'm comfortable working on pins so not a big deal for me.
I find too many people make a parallel with buying a car and wanting it to be perfect (mostly because of the high cost involved). I have moved on from that state of mind and accepted that this isn't a collector's item, but a commercial money making device. A better parallel would be if you went out and bought a forklift, or a dump truck. Would you expect it to be perfect? would you go over it with a magnifying glass?
Now I realize some people had major issues with the T-REX (beyond just making adjustments) and that's a different thing. Those are warranty issues and I think in most cases have been dealt with appropriately (unless you expect them to come install the parts in your home)...
As long as there are no major defects that prevents the machine from working or clearly broken items then I don't sweat it. Remember that despite the high cost, it's a choice to buy one of these things. Nobody is being coerced and it certainly isn't a necessity!
Quoted from Utesichiban:
Seriously? Of course it's a choice to buy one but how is that different than 95% of any other consumer product for sale? It doesn't excuse a manufacturer from shoddy quality and QC.
Pinball machines are NOT consumer products. They are commercial money making amusement devices.. Just because us clowns buy them for our homes doesn't all of a sudden make them consumer products. Commercial operators are certainly not worried about devalued resale value. They are the real customers.
Yes this is changing but we aren't there yet.
However I believe that with the other manufacturers producing nicer quality machines this will put some pressure on Stern to wake up and smell the coffee. But keep in mind Sterns are still the lower priced NIB machines.. There's a reason.
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:
Need some help
Had ball get stuck here twice if it moving slowly
Help? Really? I've had it stop there too. Just nudge the machine. I have also had it get trapped between the newton ball and truck ball. Nothing a little nudge won't fix. Now if you're machine tilts from such a small nudge then you haven't set it up properly.
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:
Not 100% happy with this , it looses the wizard mode aspect... as it can be obtained that easily. That is if it's 100% the exact same mode with score values, etc...
Hopefully they add an adjustment so you can disable this from the menu (to be able to select it from the start)
In accordance with the video released of the mode, YES it is a menu selectable option.
Personally I don't believe it takes anything away from the wizard mode at all. It's so difficult to even GET there, it's nice that you can actually practice it before hand and not waste the opportunity once it happens in a real game!
Quoted from RipleYYY:
no sorry guys (even more now as Keith got my PM, and replied already)
Ugggh.. I really hope this doesn't delay the next code update
Hit the Visitor Center a few times now. Getting close to Escape Nublar. Would hate to make it there and get nothing cause it's not coded yet..
The cherry on top with this thing would be a midnight madness mode. Then it truly would have absolutely everything. So much fun the escape nublar. Made to the last shot before the helipad when I lost my last truck. Damn.
Quoted from fooflighter:
I can't play that until I get to it through the game... Just my own personal discovery quest, so that's not a factor in a roll back for me
It’s a complex mode. I am glad I have seen how it works so when I get there through the game I don’t waste the opportunity!
To each his own though!
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:
I have that already. I have the Polk sub and avoided the alligator clips with the Pinnovators line out board. Perhaps I need some tuning on mine, but I don't feel like it sounds that great. The sub itself is also encroaching on the wife acceptance factor and I could easily move it somewhere else, so if I can upgrade the sub inside the cabinet that's more appealing right now.
Don't forget you can tweak the sound through the utilities. Filters, equalizer, fader, etc.
Quoted from Saucerboy:
I am having an issue with the ball jumping as it transfers from the right inlane to the right flipper. I have posted a very short slo motion video of the issue here:
This is my first pin and I'm learning about setup. This jump leads to inconsistent shots from right flipper. The left flipper transfers smoothly but the right is very different and i dont think it is designed to be like that.
thanks for any help
I realize it's a long thread but this has been covered numerous times. Loosen the inlane guide screws (all 4). Push the guide upwards while you re-tighten the screws. Normal maintenance/tweaking.
Quoted from Dr-pin:
Thanks for the pep-talk. I´m going to check the pitch today, maybe a tad bit floaty, but the bubble on the right is dead on centre.
Dont get me wrong, i think the game is there, it´s just so darned tight. Maybe it should have been a widebody?
The game was designed to be at 7 pitch. The shots are much harder to achieve if less than 7. My bubble level is totally wrong. The pitch was around 5 By following the bubble.
Quoted from pinmister:
Hey all, I have a question. Has anyone owned both the Pro and Premium/LE JP models? I am on the fence on which one I should pick up. Seems like the T-Rex is plagued with problems and people are having to become MacGyver to make them play smoothly. I am used to tweaking my pins to play good, but wondering if the Pro may be the way to go-less is more? I like the upgrade for the raptor gate, but not sure about T-Rex disrupting game-play/slowing down flow, and having to be tweaked to work correctly? Really want to hear from someone who has owned both versions. Thanks
Haven't owned a pro but I can tell you my T-rex was working perfect out of the box and still going strong. Got mine in Sep 2019. I've put about 1100 plays on it. I don't think it's the majority that have issues. Obviously in this thread it's disproportionate since ppl don't post when things work great. You only hear about the issues. 1000's of games out there.
Quoted from Alattig:
Replay at 144,300,000 then after the next game played it’s Replay at 288,600,000 and then back down to 144 and so on. What gives? (Code is current V1.01.0)[quoted image][quoted image]
Replay boost is set to ON or AUTO. It's in the adjustments. Set it to off and it won't change the replay score.
Installed it. Took about 20 mins. Much quieter. It runs longer however because it cools less.
Quoted from vertigo:
Fixing the target their angles was easy and effective, thanks!
The helix ramp seems no issue after I re-leveled the entire table (wooden floor, so I guess it gets inaccurate pretty easily).
I still require two ideas for the remaining issues;
- how do I check the trex magnet, and how do I adjust the trex vertical position (I dont understand the instruction with the bolts, perhaps someone can explain in more detail or point me to a video?)
- speaker pops loudly now and then.. checked the wiring didnt see any issues, resetted the audio settings to no avail
Are you sure it’s not the credit knocker you are describing? It’s loud and annoying. You can turn it off in the settings.
This is why I installed a real knocker in mine. Alas. It’s louder and Even MORE annoying. Lol
Quoted from WizardsCastle:
One other thing I've noticed us that my post passes seem weak. Either it's a small skip that barely makes it over to the other flipper, or it falls short and hits the tip of the other flipper.
I'm pretty good at post passes, so it's not that. Also, all my other games like Maiden, Batman, TWD have nice strong passes.
Anyone else experience this and know how to fix?
Yep same. I don't know how you do your post passes but if you leave the receiving flipper down, let the ball bounce and roll up a bit, you should be able to trap it on it's way down. I know my son does his passing with the receiving flipper already up and it often doesn't work on JP.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:
thats factory setting, yes.
imo just turn down the ball eject power to a very low setting, flipper power is ok as it is.
So noone can take a picture of the stern shooter rod connection? so i know where i have to plug it in.
The Stern rod has 2 independent LEDs hence the 3 wires.
Quoted from Saddath:
Do you guys play for a 3rd Extraball (rescues + maybe T-rex, is there another easy one?).
I always put all my games on 4 replay award levels and awards EB instead of credit. It auto adjusts so it's never easy to get, but when you do have that awesome game it becomes even MORE awesome!!! On my JP the 3rd replay level is around my highest score(1.2B) and the 4th is well beyond it so both are not likely to happen.
My scores are usually in the 300-400M range for ok games, which is below the replay threshold. Owned JPLE since Aug 2019. Only made it to VC twice I think. Never did King of the Island. I *MAY* have started Museum Mayhem once but I don't think so. I have done all the Control Room modes however on more than one occasion.
For the Escape Nublar challenge I make it out about 10-15% of the time. I like this mode as it's "short".
Quoted from 85vett:
I used to say this but I'm at the point now that I regret buying a premium. I like JP but have come to hate playing my premium because my T-Rex is the most buggy mech ever. Mine never lowers it's head at the same location and thus no matter what "adjustments" I make it only catches the ball about 10% of the time and in some cases even roadblocks my game completely requiring me to drain the ball in play to progress. The roadblock happens when it lowers it's head outside the right side of the ramp for a T-Rex mode and you need to make the left ramp (it's neck blocks the ramp). God forbid you play a mode where multiple shots are needed to the T-Rex head, like Museum Mayhem. I've been there close to a dozen times and only had a chance to complete it once due to these issues. I used to watch Esther L streams and he had the same issue and just turned his head off. Stern fixed his, I guess because of who he is as they are just ghosting me on it and my PF issues on this game. I refuse to turn that feature off as I spent nearly $2K extra for it and a single moving wall but it has a mind of it's own. Sometimes lowers outside the ramp on the left or right side of it. Sometimes being in the middle but not lowering down far enough to touch the ramp for the ball to make it's mouth and sometimes it's perfectly aligned on the ramp.
Not trying to come off negative but until Stern get's their service head out of their A$$ I wouldn't recommend a game with extra features to my worst enemy.
And I've been playing my LE for almost a year now and I've had no issues with the T-Rex whatsoever. At about 1500 games played (1700 lifetime) now. While I really feel bad for you, getting a lemon doesn't mean they all are. My game was even born on a Friday (usually a bad thing in the manufacturing world).
While some would say I got lucky I would tend to say it's you that was unfortunately very unlucky..
Quoted from rickyray:
I am running 1.02 with a Pro. Yes, before the game starts in attract mode, I hold down the flippers for more than 10 seconds and there is nothing that appears on the LCD to switch to Challenge Mode??
As I said, the only way I can get the Escape Nublar Challenge to start up, is to switch Adjustment 47 to Challenge, then it immediately comes up when pushing the start button.
There’s another setting. Just flip through them. It’s something like:”enable challenge mode in attract mode”. Yes/no. You’ll recognize it when you see it..
Quoted from rickyray:
I went through the settings twice and did not see anything like enable challenge mode in attract mode. Do you have a pro? Wonder if the settings are different for pro vs. LE vs. Premium? Can you run through and let me know what setting number it is? Thanks for everyone's help.
Found it right away
Quoted from Hop721:
Funny that you posted this. I’ve had my game a week and finally have been able to put in some real time over the last couple of days. My thought after my final game last night was exactly the same as yours-“why the HECK can’t I hit that right ramp”?
STAFF IS IN DANGER! Well, if they’re on the right ramp they gonna die.
SUPERTRANQ time!!! Hit that green button!!!
It's a reflex for me now. I hear that callout I slap that lockdown bar button. Of course I still can't hit the ramp with the extra time lol.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:
So, was watching a Buffalo Pinball stream last night, and noticed that when Kevin was post passing, it had significant power like all of my other modern Sterns have.
Now I realize there is definitely something off with my JP. When I post pass, it seems to hit the slingshot post hard, and then lose power getting over the the other flipper. The lack of power, doesn't allow the ball to hip up enough to catch it on the other side. It just barely gets to the tip of the right flipper, and you're forced then to flip the ball away, as catching is impossible.
Watch this at 0.25 speed to see what I'm talking about.
Does anyone know what could be causing this. I watched a few more stream today, and it's very clear that something is off here.
I've replaced both coil stops, so not sure what else to do?
Have you lowered flipper power from default? I haven’t. (JPLE also).
Also i find that the flipper pass timing on JP is different than my W/B games. Delay your flip a fraction of a second more. I also changed flipper rubbers because the red ones were creating a lot of red debris. I got perfectplay rubbers. Shiny and green lol.
On my game left to right works ok. Right to left is so-so.
Quoted from Kronnix:
Ok, without going back over 128 pages of comments to try and find an answer.
I've had JP Prem. for a little over a week and have put in over 100 plays. I noticed today that the 3rd flipper post is spinning freely (more or less). It doesn't really "wiggle" but it does spin. When I lifted the PF to try and tighten it, I found that the 3rd flipper assembly would need to be completely removed to tighten. Am I missing something? I had read here that this was a problem for early JPs but didn't expect it over a year into production. Should I be worried about the post being able to spin? Or is it only a playfield damaging concern if it wiggles?
2nd issue: My T-Rex has almost completely stopped eating the ball. It's like it closes it's jaw a split second too late. Is there a fix for this?? Thanks in advance!
Post: stick a flat screwdriver underneath and hold it against the nut and tighten the post.
Trex: the jaw has nothing to do with holding the ball. It’s the magnet that holds it. Test your magnet in coil test.
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:
Anyone with a LE want to do me a favor and scan a copy of there apron plastic for me? I've converted my premium and I want that extra LE plastic to make it look complete (other than the metal badge of course) don't want to go that far but it would be nicw to have a plastic with the designers name on it that says limited edition. My machine has all the extras and then some from the LE but I'd love to make a scan of the plastic into my own LE Apron plastic. I understand many won't want to do this but maybe there is someone who's willing to see my point of view? Thanks to everyone in advanced.
Imitating the powdercoat is easy but you’re saying you managed to get the LE sideblades and a real glass mirrored backglass too? Well done you!..
Didn’t think that was possible.
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:
I was more interested in the premium art package, its not been hard at all... I guess I should have been more specific. My apologies.
No apologies necessary. You modded the hell out of your premium. You didn't actually convert it to look like a LE, which was pretty much what you said in the first post....
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:
CORRECT! It's an LE in my eyes... I put the LE speakers, HD glass, yellow speaker surrounds, side blades, shaker, Doug's premium speaker light kit, Stern JP shooter setup, a custom mirrored premium backglass (yet to go in) Robert Stones Green sparkle powder coat, all the mezel products, along with other odds and ends.... Just wanted to see if a fellow owner who loves to make their machine limited like mine would mind helping me finish my game up right. That's all.
You could easily scan the one you have and photoshop the hand symbol out and insert whatever text you want. Limited Edition, Special Edition, Cretaceous Edition, etc.. Be creative!
Instead of "game designer" have "game modder" or something similar and put your own autograph there!
Quoted from Green-Machine:
What does this mean? You deleted your post?
You can't delete posts but you can edit your posts. When folks want to delete their post they usually remove all text and put a period (.) or write "post deleted".
So this means the poster wanted to remove what he posted and edited it out.
Quoted from mcvetyty:
Hey everyone! New to the club this week - loving it so far, but have a couple of questions to see if these items are normal as I unfortunately have a couple defects on my playfield...
1) My ball has gotten hung up on the spinner gate a couple of times - is it normal that the metal rod from the gate stick way out towards the back of the machine? See image below - ball gets stuck right at the point of the arrow.
2) Often times when the ball is popping around the amber pop bumpers, the gate to the right of them will flap open and the ball will actually sneak out of that gate instead of going out the far right to feed the top flipper - is that normal?
3) Finally, how common is it that a ball shot through the spinner should end up in the pop bumpers as opposed to spinning around to the top flipper? I'd say mine does this more then 3 out of 4 times..[quoted image]
Those aren't defects. It's pinball. It's a mechanical device (randomness) and not a video game. Things aren't always exactly the same every time.
1> Yes it's normal. Just search this thread for "spinner" and/or "gate" to get some suggestions on how to adjust/fix. Personally I just nudge if I notice the ball going slow around there and I think it may stop on the gate. If you are tilting when you nudge it then the problem is the tilt bob being too sensitive. Nudging is part of pinball. Go look at the pros on Youtube!
2> Yes it's normal the designer himself said "it happens" and is normal.
3> Depends on how clean the shot is. It's a common occurrence. You may find hints on how to make it better once you search for "spinner" - see point #1.
Quoted from mcvetyty:
Thanks man! Good to hear these are normal, but to clarify these weren't the PF defects I was referring to.. These were just questions I had to see if things needed to get adjusted/tuned as a result of finding other things wrong with my PF such as pooling in one area and wood grain. Out of curiosity, would you consider the wood grain here a defect or randomness of the pinball hobby?
That's touchy. Many pinsiders are alarmed about such things but I am not. I tell myself that this isn't a work of art to be stared at but a commercial money making device meant for commercial operation. The fact that I put it in my basement is MY choice and doesn't change it's intended purpose - it doesn't magically become a consumer item like a toaster or a fridge no matter what the pinballs cost. Best analogy I can think of is if you go buy a brand spanking new backhoe to play on your land... Will you really be going over the paint job with a magnifying glass? It's commercial equipment. It doesn't have to be perfect cosmetically as long as it is fully functional. BTW I don't mean really bad stuff like clearcoat chipping. That shouldn't happen for commercial operators either.
If it makes you feel any better my pf is the same (LE). I don't have pooling or chipping but I have wood grain showing. I don't care as long as it's not wearing through the clearcoat and so far so good. I've had my game for about a year now and about 2000 plays on it. Yes.. I actually play my games every... single.. day... lol. I cringe when I see FS ads with "had the game 2 years and it has 200 plays on it lifetime".... like whyyyyy do you own it if you don't play it lol.
On a side note... One good thing about COVID and playing every day is my skill level has dramatically improved.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
For those who have installed Pin Stadium lighting did you just adhere the mag strip on top of your blade art? I guess there's not really any other option unless you went with the currently backordered Hover Kit (but then again, I read somewhere those weren't compatible with the Omega's).
Also, do most think Omega is the way to go? I don't really see myself using any of the colors except white anyway. Of course, I must have the UV flashers - those are awesome on my AFMr.
I have the Omegas installed on my LE. Yes you stick it over the art blades and as you correctly stated the hovers are not compatible with the Omegas. It's really the only option for me as I thoroughly despise colored GI, unless it was designed that way (such a WOZ), and even in my WOZ I also added Omegas.
I hooked up the UV flasher to the control room flasher or raptor pit I can't remember.
There's also the option of just adding a few spotlights for a lot less money. I do like the Pinstadiums(white only!) despite their high cost.
Quoted from MikeS:
The 3 reasons I went for the Premium were:
1. The T-Rex toy is really cool and adds to the ambiance.-but doesn't really add or subtract to the gameplay. I guess it could be a negative to gameplay if your T-Rex has problems catching the ball. Luckily mine has been good in that regard.
You could say the same about a lot of toys like the exploding castle on MM or exploding saucer on AFM. The fact that they move when they blow up doesn't add to gameplay. they could be just static and it would be the same game play but it just wouldn't be the same now would it?
I find a lot of Pro owners downplay the significance of the Trex but it's a pretty awesome toy, especially when it just throws the ball anywhere (as long as you don't disable that feature in the settings lol). Therefore it DOES affect gameplay as it interacts directly with the ball and inserts an element of randomness.
As dimthedaylights stated above, it gets folks excited when they play.... VERY excited!!! lol
Quoted from NightTrain:
Can someone tell me what I'm missing here? I got my game with alternate game software installed. I want to revert it to stock. When I download the Stern zip file and unzip it, I get two files. I don't get a .raw file. What am I doing wrong here?
You are downloading the wrong files. Those are the update files for USB updating. You want the full SD card image. It's under "Support/SD Card Images" on the Stern website.
*Edit: missed where you stated you figured it out lol.
Quoted from NightTrain:
You’re all good man. It’s fine. Just play and have some fun. If you read these forums all day, you’ll go insane thinking you need to slap metal and Mylar over everything. It’s a pinball machine. It will be fine. Play the shit out of it and don’t worry about minor things.
Testifyyyyy!, (cue the bart simpson clip)
Quoted from yzfguy:
Holy hell.... I'm starting to actually try to figure out some more of the rules and whew! It hurts my head!
Loving this game and it clearly isn't going to be "beaten" by me anytime soon
Yeah but when you have a good game it's so satisfying. Had one of those this week. So intense! Secure Control room was completed. I was ready to start the next TREX mode which was Museum Mayhem. And I was at the last paddock before visitor center.. Not my best score but certainly my best shot at Escaping Nublar for real instead of practice.
It was also my first time collecting a fossil set. Before that I had only collected 1 fossil - usually the one for completing a control room mode.
They had announced it was coming to all their future code updates for all games. This started with the band based machines. I agree that for regular games it seems weird.
Quoted from palmab03:
Standard pitch right in the middle of the leveler, and the flipper doesn't feel weak (Actually with it being set on max, it feels a bit too strong to me as it really whips around the loop shot when hit that I'd like to slow it down a bit)
There is no such thing as "standard pitch" when using the bubble. It can be WAY off. If I center the bubble on mine I have under 6 degrees of pitch. It's pretty useless.
The designer has mentioned on Pinside that the game is designed to be played at 7 degrees pitch. You need an inclinometer to check that. While it may seem like that would speed up the play too much it actually helps a lot with the side shots and makes play easier.
Man.. just had a great game. Visitor center. Completed raptors in the kitchen. Started secure control room but not completed successfully. Was 1 shot away from starting my last t-rex mode (close to museum mayhem!). I wanted to do escape nublar for real instead of practice!
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:
Anyone noticed that this is not how the new code is set up, mine is set to 8 as default:
this would could help me to get to escape nublar, but i dont want to change it from factory.
Got a new escape nublar challange record with 3:01 yay!
Did you restore your settings/scores after the update(switching between the custom code and this one)? If you did then that’s why it’s still at 8. Your saved settings are overriding the default.
Quoted from Hop721:
I’m guessing they’re talking about the small numbers that are printed on the plastics. I have no answer as to why they’re there-I have a 17 year old Ripley’s, and they’re on those plastics also. I personally think it looks cheap and unprofessional.
Ummmm. Unprofessional?? Those are called part numbers. So you can order the correct replacement if required.
Otherwise you’d have to buy a whole set or try to explain “I need that plastic on the right, near the bumpers, kinda small, has that thing near it...”.
Edit: @pinbaltilt beat me to it
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:
I have a question about the coil stops... When the coil stop is just loose should I replace them or is it just indicative that they will probably fail soon? I have a couple on hand because I own six modern sterns and heard this is something that fails often. Does it hurt anything to leave them until they fail?
Doesn't hurt anything other than if it fails during an epic game you'll kick yourself in the butt.
Quoted from ScottyC:
All this topper talk! Some one crack it open already (been waiting months, hahaha). I need to know what LED control boards are in there for my retro fit.
It’s just a regular Stern node board. Same as what’s under the playfield. Instead of controlling insert lights it controls the letters and a few extra lights/flashers on the topper. There’s no big secret. All interactive toppers have the same node address.
Quoted from Dan1733:
Recently, the ball gets stuck in the raptor pen when the gates open. The lip of the gate is just a tiny bit high/uneven. The game needs a good shake to get the ball free for multi-ball.
Anyone else have this problem? Any easy way to adjust the gate?
Lift the playfield. There is an adjustment screw for the gate height. It's been covered in the thread a few times.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
Thought I would design and 3D print some side rail pieces that match the colors and caution tape pattern of my 3D printed flipper toppers. I had to do the right side in 3 pieces for the long rail, but I still really like how they came out.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I know a lot of folks like the caution tape look but I really dislike it. Makes it look like a Roadshow. BTW there is no caution tape in the movie which the game is based on so I don’t feel like it adds authenticity-quite the opposite. But I’m OCD when it comes to sticking to the theme lol..
It certainly looks well done if you’re going for that look.
Quoted from Manny65:
You need to complete Spino to get KOTI. If you also completed the T-Rex paddock then it’s T-Rex vs Spino KOTI, otherwise it is just Spino KOTI
Man I need to focus on KOTI to get to see it some day. I've had the game 14 months now and never played/seen KOTI. Gotten to VC a few times. Got close to starting escape Nublar after VC a few weeks ago. I just need to focus on that paddock(Spino) I guess.
Quoted from Liakos:
I was hoping if someone can please give me done advice ...
My right lower flipper is not as powerful as the left one...
I changed the coil stop to be on safe side, the power in the options menu is at 255 ( maximum strength) which is the same as the left...
The left one is as snappy as shit while the right just doesnt have that nice feel to it...
I dont know what to do...
Can someone please give me a tip ..
Thnx in advance
Make sure it has slight play up and down and is not binding (too tight).
Quoted from blazingsaddlz:
I'm a new owner of the Pro version of the game and have been playing it all weekend. Admittedly, I'm not the greatest pinball player, and I'm still learning all of the rules to this game as I play. Anyway, I'm having a really hard time hitting the outer ramps, so the control room, and the helipad one. I've verified that the tips of my flippers are pointing right at the divot in the playfield, and I've got the playfield set at 7 degrees, and left to right is level. Is this just a situation of me having to get better at these shots, or should I be making other adjustments?
Quoted from jawjaw:
They are difficult shots by design. I find it easier to hit these shots if you cradle the ball first and then focus on hitting the shot with the ball right at the end of the flipper. I don't suggest lowering your flippers like freeplay suggested. While this does open up your shots it also makes it more difficult to cradle since the flipper will not rise as far.
Actually freegame450 has it right. The designer has himself said that the flippers need to be "droopy". A little lower than other games. The dot should be aligned with the top side of the flipper bat (not the rubber), just as seen in the pics above.
Sorry I am not searching through 172 pages of posts in this thread to point it out. I've had the game for over a year and have been following this thread since. It's been mentioned many times. search "flipper alignment" in the thread if you feel like it!
Slightly lowering flipper power will also make the side shots easier.
Quoted from Manny65:
Actually the centre of the lowering flipper bats should be aligned to the dot. It's only the upper flipper that should have the front of the bat aligned to the dot. The dots for the lower flippers are placed such that if the bats are centered they'll be "droopy" rather than in line with the return lane guide
Here's Keith's posts:
Sorry you are correct. That's what I get for surfing Pinside during my break with my mind still focused on work lol..
I just checked mine (still factory set) and they are not as low as the picture above but slightly lower than centered on the dot. Been playing it like that for over a year I am not changing anything lol.
I suggest you should search the thread. This question is asked and answered every few weeks. Search “buy premium pro”.
Folks with pros will say that you won’t miss anything. Folks with prems will say the trex is integral to the experience. Of the thousands of machines out there i would guess less than 1% have adjustment issues. They are vocal though. My trex worked perfect out of the box and i’ve put almost 2000 games in the 14 months of ownership. No adjustments.
Quoted from ScottyC:
I put mine right in the center on the back bottom.. and yeah it's flippin loud. Scares me at times [quoted image]
Same as where I put mine and it is too loud actually. The screech noise is annoying but the loudness of the knocker in that location is just as annoying if not more so. Wish Stern would put a setting for Q24 where you could adjust the milliseconds it fires. They do for most other coils.
Also if you are looking for a W/B "thwack" sound then you should install in the head. In the cabinet gives a more cavernous "thump". But SO LOUD!
Quoted from yzfguy:
I just said this to my son yesterday.... We have a premium and as much as I think that one animation is awesome when the car is being chased, an option to skip would be nice. It feels like a good fifteen seconds of standing there with nothing to do.
Hit both flipper buttons simultaneously. It skips the animation. I do it all the time.
Quoted from TaylorVA:
Getting there. Still needed Museum Mayhem for EN. I don’t know why, but I can get to VC and SCR pretty regularly and still struggle for Museum Mayhem. Been using the tranquilizer a lot more lately which has really helped.
I've had the game for about 15 months now and get to VC and SCR once in a while but somehow I've never seen KOTI or Museum Mayhem yet lol. I know how to get to them but I never do. These past few days have been good however. Playing 1 game a day and hitting over 1B every time (usually I'm in the 400-600M average).
Quoted from Green-Machine:
I’ve wake boarded a handful of times, definitely not enough to really get much control. Skated for about 18 years mostly street style and mini half-pipe and broke a few bones myself. I’m almost 50 and only do off road mountain biking now. Ahh getting old Rocks! And so does Pinball!
Dirt biking (enduro) is also a nice activity for us half-century dudes
Quoted from lockeness:
I have a 2 month old JP Premium. The Control room “C” post, when down, is not at all flush with the play field, it is recessed quite a bit. I have had 3-4 instances where a slow moving ball stops on the post hole and won’t move. I don’t think that there is a magnet there, maybe, but nudging/shaking will not dislodge the ball. Last night it happened and trying to unseat the ball I tilted the machine, and I’ve removed the tilt bob. The ball did not move. Then the machine goes into ball search mode, the Control room post shoots up and the ball slams against the glass. I’m not sure if it can break the glass, but it is not something I want to find out.
Is there a way to raise the post so this does not happen?
It's covered quite a few times in the thread if you search for post adjustment. Lift the playfield. There is an adjustment screw under the post mech that let's you adjust the height.
Quoted from sliprose:
Anybody having issues shattering the clear plastic guard above the entrance of the T-Rex ramp? On my Pro, I shattered the original plastic on both sides of the front screws. I ordered replacements from Ulek and the first replacement shattered in the same place after a week. I have another spare but I am afraid to attach it as I don't want it to shatter as well. For now, I cut out a piece of acrylic and covered it with mylar - doesn't look very good, but it's at least functional. We'll see how long it lasts.
Anyone else have problems with the plastic guard above the TRex ramp entrace shattering? What was your fix?
Did you make sure your posts are solid and not loose and wobbly?
Quoted from pinatlas:
My first post and my first pin and unfortunately it's not the kind of first post I wanted to make.
So I got a new JP 2019 machine Pro model and for a few days everything is great and I love the game. Now starting yesterday I started to noticed strange pixilation issues with certain animation segments of the game, for example the helicopter at the start shows up very pixel artifacted then switches to normal and other videos in the game do the same thing. It got worse, now I'm getting frequent crashes of the game, it would just stop and resets. I'm on 1.03 code as it came with it. This is just a few days old machine, is there something I can do to fix the crashes and animations? I can't find anything in the support section that would help me.
Sounds like the memory card is failing. Buy a new SD card. There is plenty of info on this thread for brand/model that works well. Download the full code from Stern's website. Program the card as per instructed on Stern's website. Swap cards.
Quoted from trk12fire:
Did you look into Pin Stadiums?
That's what I use on MY LE and never regretted it. Using the white only with BLUR. Don't see striping effects. The intensity is adjustable. You set it to whatever you want. Mine are set at about 17% I think. They come on/off with the GI. Pick a GI string you want. The UV is hooked into a flasher usually or the shaker. Once again you set it up the way YOU want it.
Quoted from Phbooms:
Isnt there different versions of the pinstadiums? What version do you have? If you get a chance could you post a pic of your game.
Mr_Tantrum has good pics in his link. I use the Omegas.
Once again keep in mind they are fully adjustable for brightness. From barely noticeable to blinding sunlight lol.
Mine are currently set pretty bright to overcome the reflections on the pf glass. I put the HD Glass that came with it on my MMrRE for now until I can buy more glass.
Quoted from bossk4hire:
Has any added in the rumble motor to a pro? Is it worth it?
Quoted from Soulstoner:
Very worth it. The machine shakes with every step the T-Rex takes during the chase mode. It's incredible.
One of the best if not THE best shaker integration ever. I have shakers in most of my games but in this one it actually makes sense and is more than just haptic feedback.
Quoted from StoneyCreek:
When I activate SM during MB, I try to catch the other balls so they don't inadvertently hit a switch after the countdown and before I've shot at the SM target.
You'd have to be pretty lucky to have one of the balls sent to the pops score a SM before another ball hit a switch.
Ideally you get to try both and then decide. Pro owners mostly say that the prem isn't worth it. Premium owners mostly all say that it is worth it. Nobody wants to admit they didn't get the best possible version. Most folks haven't really spent a lot of time on both versions. Trying a few games on location or at a friend's house isn't the same as having in your house, properly dialed in, and playing it lots.
I personally haven't tried the Pro. I like my LE. The thing about the TREX being "something else to maintain" isn't really accurate. I find it funny someone saying the Data East version is better. That's really pushing it lol. This TREX will fling the ball all over. It definitely affects/changes game play. I've had my game 16 months now with over 2k games played. No issues on anything other than replacing the flipper coil stops, which is a problem on all versions.
Some folks will knock the premium because they can only afford a pro. If you can only afford a pro then buy one but that doesn't mean the premium isn't worth it if you can afford the extra cost...
In any case take everyone's opinion with a grain of salt and really try to get some time on both models if you can. Or watch lots of youtube lol.
They are both great games.
Quoted from nicoy3k:
Why isn’t it accurate? It’s a moving mech with a long history of needing tweaking on this thread.
Seriously?? I hate to break it to you but Pinside isn’t the end-all be-all of the pinball world. There are thousands of premiums out there. We have a dozen folks or a bit more with issues on here. I’d say the odds of having one that works correctly are pretty damn good. Lemons happen in all manufacturing.
There are also pro owners that have issues due toparts installed incorrectly. Does this mean all pros suck? Of course not.
Quoted from Magno:
I was planning on using the premium copter blade on my PRO, has anyone else done this?
I’m not sure exactly if I need the whole new assembly or just some of the parts? Could anyone help me out, here is the parts list.[quoted image]
Hmmm. Why?? Not only would you need the whole assembly (probably pretty expensive if you can even buy it) but you'll have to drill your playfield. For what? The blades won't have the light, sound, and score feature of the prem. The pro isn't wired or programmed for it. You'd be better off just getting a helicopter mod like seen in this thread...
Quoted from holminone:
Maybe this has been covered but I can’t find it... I’m trying to diagnose helicopter shot rejects from the LEFT flipper. I recently waxed the play field (probably 40 plays on it) and I feel like the rejects might be spin related... seemingly clean shot up that right helicopter only to rattle around and have zero juice to mosey even a quarter way up the pipe...
Suggestions? Is this normal in your games? Similar is true on the C shot. Seems my balls spin and get bounced between the metal rails on the c shot more than they should...
Do you have the correct pitch at 7 degrees?
Quoted from RedDragons5:
Scribbles - Is there a certain adhesion promoter you suggest? I'm also having an issue where the magnets on both ends keep coming apart. I have to take the glass off and "re-stick 'em" together.
That tends to happen if you forget to remove the light bars before lifting the playfield. It breaks the adhesive bond in a bad way and you can never really fix it. Pinstadium does sell new double sided strips to replace the damaged ones. Works good I did one of my light bars.
Quoted from sliprose:
Last summer, I read that the recommend slope for JP2 is 7.0 deg, so I adjusted to what I thought was that angle. It seemed like the machine's bubble level was off pretty extreme, but that is what my phone said. This past weekend I was cleaning my JP2 Pro and decided to double check the playfield angle using my phone, and low and behold it showed close to 8.0 deg!
In hindsight, I think I didn't calibrate my phone when I set up the angle earlier - or maybe I didn't account for the camera sticking out from the back. Regardless, I had been playing at the steeper angle for 6 months. Within a day of setting to 7.0 deg I set my new GC score - just under 1 billion. I swear I will break through that barrier soon, before I changed the angle I thought it would be impossible.
I'm definitely an idiot, this is just one of the many ways I've proven that fact.
You're not an idiot. using a phone is better than the bubble level which is usually way off.
However, I never recommend using a phone because of cases, cameras, etc. It's just not that good for precise stuff. I bought a cheap inclinometer from amazon and use only that.
Quoted from beelzeboob:
I almost always agree with your opinions, so realize that I'm a guy that's almost always in your camp. You ARE entitled to your opinion, and I respect that. Again...it's just how you went about it when criticizing the work of one person in an attempt to make a game better. I think everybody here can agree with that.
While PoMC was abrupt and showed no tact in his comment, once again Tim took it way too personally and the ensuing mob attitude certainly got weird. Some months ago I also made comments about not feeling it because of quotes that while they are classic and funny in the movie, have no bearing on the adventure you are following and playing under the glass. I also got shit on by a mob. So while he has an abrasive way of communicating his opinion, I'm pretty sure the mob would have shit on him even if he had politely said it wasn't for him. The amount of work really has no bearing on personal taste of people. This is the owner's club thread. Not Tim's custom audio thread. Folks should be allowed to have an opinion!
With all the hubbub I decided to re-install the official code last night just to see the difference - been so long that I've had Tim's code. You know what? The game is awesome anyway. I also did appreciate getting callouts telling me what's next even though I know the game. I can certainly get what PoMC is getting at.
I will probably go back to Tim's code on the weekend but in the end it doesn't matter. JP is a great game either way.
Keep calm and play some pinball!
Quoted from PoMC:
Hey, awesome news for me. I won a pinball Waffle last night for my choice of Stern side armor! New set of Jurassic Park armor on the way. Also have Stern art blades and the T-Rex Alive mod in the mail. Can't wait to make that T-Rex move. Also need to paint the T-Rex to give it some definition. Looks like a clay blob or boulder (hope I don't offend the Stern employee who made it).
There's a T-Rex re-skin mod that looks super real. I think by Lior but it may be sold out.
Quoted from Faust:
Question: I saw here and there some posts of the ball guides or sides of the ramps scraping through the playfield's clear and print.
I have a LE and noticed the sharp edges are going through the clear probably (no problem as long as it doesn't move).
Should I do anything about it, or leave it as it is? No visible damage anywhere (yet), but the game has very low plays also.
When you replace the helicopter, why can't you leave on the blades of the original heli.
Looks lilke the Stern metal heli 'blades' don't do much and they are heavy and ugly, or am I missing something. I took mine out this week to place the heli.
The metal blades are hooked up to a switch (sound and scoring). If it doesn't get triggered you will have tech alerts about a failed switch.
Quoted from Faust:
AH well I didn't see any sensor in the assembly drawing:
I see only a switch on the side of the wireframe, I thought that was used and the blades are just for show
Well if you have an LE then there is a magnetic switch at the bottom of the assembly.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
Of the 3 versions, I prefer the premium backglass and cabinet art by far and have no plans on changing mine (well, I already have put a few custom touches on the original and remade it, but I kept the stock art). However, I would be tempted to swap out for sure if I had the Pro, and maybe even the LE.
As hard as people try to say this is not a movie pin, well it is (however loosely it may or may not follow the script). If it weren't, then the likenesses of the characters would not have been used, specific video clips have been emulated, the movie logo would not have been integrated, nor well-known sounds/call outs used.
Let's agree to disagree. It is definitely not based on the movie but on an alternate series of events that would have happened at about the same time. Think movie reboot/alternate timeline. Trying to shoehorn movie characters(the kids, Malcom, Grant, etc) in this game makes no sense with the actual similar but ALTERNATE adventure going on under the glass. Nedry had plans to steal embryos whether Dr Grant and the others showed up at all or not. This is what would have happened if nobody was visiting the island at that time. Nedry would still wreak havoc on the security system in order to steal the embryos. The folks that run the island are there(Hammond, Nedry, Muldoon, etc) of course. The other visiting characters are not.
The game is awesome and can stand on its own without alternate video/audio trying to make the game into something it is not.
For those people that just can't get passed the original movie then the audio/video clips make it more familiar. It doesn't mean better. I like both original and alternate and switch my SD card once in a while.
Quoted from Drussksu:
The lights near my flippers are inconsistently on and occasionally flicker while playing. Anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this? I just replaced a coil stop on the bottom right flipper could I have loosened a wire?
Common on all Sterns. Cheap bulbs/sockets. Change both if it bothers you that much or just do like most of us and ignore.
Quoted from parsonsaj:
I have no experience with the Neo Fusion, but my go-to Pinstadium now is the Omega. The price is right, and there is no candy striping on ramps and other features along the sides of the cabinets.
I use the Omega as well. I have the UV flasher connected to the flasher from the raptor pit.
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:
First time pin owner here. Noticed this evening that I have a few insert LEDs that appear to be out and do not turn on during the service menu test. They are the “Light Escape” arrow insert, the “Spitter” insert, and the “Amber Award” insert. What will I need to do to replace these? I looked on the underside of the playfield and the insert LED for “Light Escape appears to be attached to a larger circuit board. Will that whole board require replacement, or just the LED? Any tips are very much appreciated!
Check that board for loose connections or disconnected wires first.
Quoted from Flippersaurus:
Really digging this game. It took about 10 days to reach the visitor center for the first time. Went up the right side. Stacked raptor tri-ball with the raptor paddock. Then on to the visitor center for more fun with raptors!
Anyone have to adjust the feed from the right ramp to the upper flipper? Mine bounces around, especially on faster shots. It can even bounce around the upper flipper entirely so I don't get a shot.
You have to play around with the circular wireform. Loosen the attachment points and try different positioning and test with a ball. Mine needs a re-adjustment but I'm too lazy lol. It did play well for some time though after I had adjusted it. I've been moving my games around which screws up things (pitch and level).
Quoted from Shadrac:
Hi guys, i've got a sound issue with my JP Premium, i made two videos to show what is going on.
I already tried a new CPU board, 3 sd cards, speakers, Power board, settings 4ohm/8ohm, attenuation etc... For now i found nothing.
It seems that problem is only present with JP Premium owners (very strange because Premium/LE share the same code...)
So, i would like to know if some Premium owners can see the videos and do the same thing, and tell me if this is normal or not.
In the first video, the alliasing parasitic 8bit sound can be heard after 20 seconds. In the second video, it's the sound #183 (Diag/Speakers menu) and it's louder.
Thanks in advance
Harmonic distortion/vibration in the speakers themselves?
BTW I can't hear the problem.
Quoted from Shadrac:
It's not a vibration but maybe a distortion from the amp when certains sounds/frequencies are played.
You can't hear the problem? does the videos works or you can't hear noise? it's very clear on the first video (Main theme from 20 seconds)
I cranked the volume up super loud and heard it. Maybe it's worse in person or my hearing is bad but it's barely audible for me.
The only thing you haven't changed are the speakers. Can you disconnect one at a time and see if the noise goes away? Definitely sounds like harmonics. I will listen to mine later to see if I can detect it although I have an LE (5.25" speakers).
Quoted from Shadrac:
Anyone changed the stock warm white leds for cool white? I really don't like the warm white leds...
It's been discussed in one of the 2 JP threads. If I remember the consensus it was that the warm pf colors (green, brown, etc) don't look as good with cool white LEDs. Just search the 2 threads. There are pictures.
Quoted from Lucxor:
Sry your rigth actual it is only 3 d Printed but the Trex holds nice. If he breaks ( 3 month in use now) Id would be no problem to mold that thing. Also the aviary is not finish this is a pre prototype just to show the Idee. I had to split it up because my printer is too small. And it's still not perfect that's why it looks a little wreck on the Foto.
The Kelant S400 (and S500) have much bigger print plates. I have both the PhotonS and the Kelant S400
Quoted from seenev:
If you like it then great. Personally I don't understand the need for pinstadiums. I think the stock lighting in the game is fine and I think you can certainly overlight a game. Darkness can certainly set the mood in some games.
Quoted from fooflighter:
Agreed, totally kills the ambiance and atmosphere for me. They may help some older games, but I can't see the benefit at all on any modern pin. To each their own though..
Not a fan boy of the Pinstadiums but I do have a few sets and there seems to be some misconception..
Just FYI it's not a "ON or OFF" setup. You can dial the brightness to whatever you need. Mine (with HD glass) is set at about 10% brightness. Would a few additional well placed spotlights do? Probably. I had the PS so I installed it. Less of a hassle.
NEO style as well so no striping. It just makes it a little evenly brighter at that setting. My pinball room is totally dark and that's why a few of my games need additional lighting. It definitely doesn't kill the ambience at that low setting but takes away the dark spots/areas. STTNG is another I have Pinstadiums on because of the very dark areas on the game. Once again set as low as possible to just get it bright enough to not have to strain to see the ball.
Without HD glass on JP it was at about 30% to overcome the topper/ceiling reflection on the glass. That was annoyingly too bright but better than having reflections.
Keep in mind that there are folks that think Pinstadiums are too expensive and try to make their own. Homemade pinstadium style lighting tends to not have brightness adjustments and are generally way too bright.
Quoted from trk12fire:
Quick update on subwoofers. I was trying to hook up 3 pins to 1 woofer. I needed to buy the adapter from Pinovators, for 35 bucks. In doing so, it got rid of my back-feed hum for all 3 pins. However, I need to constantly adjust the sub volume when I play different pins.
Each of the 4 inputs on the pinnivators sub mixer thingy has an individual volume adjustment. Adjust them there once and be done with it.
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:
Premium would be my vote. Not everyone has had problems, most likely very few. Nobody goes on here to say mine works great, they post when they have a problem so they can get advise on how to fix. Myself no issues had mine since November last year, and there is one in route around the corner from me which takes a huge beating compared to mine and they have had no problems with theirs. Don't let a few issue derail you from ordering one with this cool option.
Same here. Owned mine since Aug 2019 no issues. About 2000 plays
The shots on JP are insanely tight. It kicks my ass regularly. Hope you don't mind bricking shots a lot. lol.
I like that SW has standup targets at all the posts. At least when you brick you still get something.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
I say do what makes you happy.
Yep definitely a personal taste. Personally I find the caution tape look pretty fulgy to be honest. But that’s just me.
I also don’t “get it”. I would get it on a Roadshow. But there is NO caution tape anywhere in Jurassic Park(movie). As if plastic tape would somehow restrain a dinosaur…
Can anybody learn how to use the search function within a thread?.... For those of us that have almost 2 years in this thread it gets annoying. It's the same basic 5-6 questions that just keep getting asked and answered.
Quoted from DentalDude88:
Can anybody post the best video mod link....I want some movie clips! Thanks!
All you ever wanted to know about JP custom code:
Quoted from chickenscratch:
I noticed in the manual they don’t list out all game settings like CGC did in MBr; is this standard for Stern or is there a source that lists and explains all settings?
Standard for Stern. You have to flip through them to see what’s there and sometimes guess what the setting does. Usually it’s self-explanatory.
Quoted from zr11990:
Someone tell me why this game is so hard. It feels like there is magnets drawing the ball to the out lanes. It also seems like the ball will not stay still on the flippers, meaning it seems to bounce off and go wild more than my other games. The game is fun but damn it seems hard to me. Since I have had it I haven't gotten past three paddocks. But I still love playing it.
Quoted from butterz:
Could your pitch on the game might be too floaty? Download pinball leveler and try to set the game to 7 degrees. with the phone on the playfield and lower the legs until perfect.
What he said. You can also move the outlane posts as well to make the outlanes narrower. Are the rubbers original? The fancy colorful silicone stuff tends to be very bouncy and changes the way a game plays. You should dial down the slingshot power as well. There's no magic setting. Just try it and see what feels right.
Quoted from Green-Machine:
I have first run prem I’m sitting at 300 plays lol
I’m over 2650 plays on my LE that I got NIB in Oct 2019. About 1800-2000 of those are me. Still plays awesome. No issues ever other than a failed coil stop. I never restart games. In fact I have it turned off in the settings. You can’t even if you want to.
Quoted from beelzeboob:
Well, that and he probably plays it just to enjoy it. That's the way I play. There are guys here that are only concerned with scores and approach it that way - like hitting multipliers before hitting spinners, etc. I try to work through the game like it's a book or a video game in an attempt to get to the wizard mode. Doesn't net me a lot of points, but then there's usually nobody there that I'm competing with.
I play the same way. I just work my way to beating the game. Score is incidental.
By strategy I meant paddocks, or control room modes, or trex modes.
For example I screw up a lot of chances of getting further because I always focus on rescuing everybody (perfect paddocks). I also focus on lighting and collecting EBs.