(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #72 Custom Jurassic Park apron cards Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #230 Custom Apron Cards for Stern JP Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (2 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (2 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (2 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (2 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (2 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by Scribbles (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3784 1 year ago

Looks like a throwback to TZ 9.4h allowing you to practice LITZ. Escape Nublar mode is so cool he doesn't want it limited to only those who can finish the paddocks?

So when you escape (in the main game), is it game over like TnA, or does the whole thing start over for more scoring?

2 weeks later
#4065 1 year ago
Quoted from accidental:

I’m finding the spinner shot bricks a lot of the time. It almost never feeds the upper flipper. Is this normal? If not, what’s the remedy?
I’ve already had to level the pop-up post up there because it came from factory slightly raised and causing air balls.

It is likely that you are bricking the shot, not the spinner A shot from the left flipper cannot touch the right wall or the ball will usually rattle in the curve and die. It's difficult to get a clean shot from the left; I expect most of mine won't make it all the way around but its a good way to get into the pops. Shots from the right are more forgiving, but if you catch the left wall too low, you may bounce into the right side and rattle. Shots that don't touch the right wall fly around no problem.

#4174 1 year ago
Quoted from Vino:

Plastic trees?
Add a UV light kit and grow your own.
[quoted image]

Now, grow them inside the game.

Stern will sell you a light for $279

2 weeks later
#4257 1 year ago
Quoted from kpg:

So I checked it yesterday and it did feel it had more resistance then the left flipper. So I took it apart and I put some synthetic grease in there and it seems to be working a bit better now. Ultimately I'm going to just replace the whole assembly I think, but there is definitely an improvement now. Thanks man !

That grease is going to capture pinball dust and turn to hard crud eventually. Best bet is to disassemble the flipper, clean off all the grease, then reassemble with proper distance between the flipper bat and the playfield bushing.

Stern is bad about shipping games with improper clearance. If the crank is clamped to the flipper shaft too high or too low, the plunger binds as it goes into the coil crooked. You need the crank clamped so that the plunger is aligned with the coil and goes straight in, not crooked up/down. This is generally achieved with about 1/16" clearance between the bottom of the bat and the bushing. WMS used to ship spacers in the goody bag to get the appropriate clearance, not sure if Stern still does or if clearance is the same.

#4262 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Normal "dialing in" of the flipper crank wasn't the problem for me either (I've done that adjustment countless times). Just as Stern received a flawed batch of coil stops, I believe they received a flawed batch of flipper mechs. I don't have the time or motivation to figure out what is funky about the flipper mech, I just know it wasn't functioning properly (and will replace the entire mech).

That's a bummer if they're shipping parts that are non-conforming. We've not had issues with any of our JP flipper mechs, had to turn power down on rt flipper to 235 or so to keep left ramp shots under control.

#4265 1 year ago

Yep, it's a result of the left ramp design. Because the flap sticks out past the entrance, shots that just barely hit either post will already have an upward trajectory and do that rejection thing, banging off the ramp cover. I took the cover off, but all that does is allow these post shots to carom off onto the plastics. Especially on the left... you'll think the shot is good but it'll clip the metal protector and bang around, except now the rattle goes up/down in addition to left/right.

There's another thing that might be happening.. a clean shot that hugs the wall on either side of the ramp will first hit the screw hole in the flap, and then catch the edge of the flap rivet. This could also lead to rattles into the cover. I mylared over the hole to help mitigate, and want to eventually grind a bit off the rivets so the ball can't hit them. Same with the screw in the tower ramp approach.

1 week later
#4332 1 year ago

It's not strange, it's the cheap sockets Stern uses. Been this way for years, just like their junk coil stops. Flipper vibration causes intermittent connectivity in the socket, thats why it's always the inlanes. Pull the LED and squish the socket a bit to make it tighter.

1 week later
#4411 1 year ago

Those red shots in TRex MB are like crack, I can't help but focus only on them, and usually screw up the whole MB. But, when I finally get 'em, 200M+ totals!

#4413 1 year ago

I have a strategy just for the hurryup part; first go for the right ramp to get its JP boost plus it feeds the two side shots, I try to get one. I keep shooting rt ramp to set up the side shots until I get them both or the timer runs low, then shoot the (easy) center shot to reset timer and more chances at the side shots. Once I get them (or if timer runs low again), shoot S combo into left ramp to start with max possible value.

I can usually flutter-trap the post release on MB start, then try for C with autolaunch.. if I miss, post pass and try again.. all about the red arrows from then on LOL

1 week later
#4534 1 year ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

What are the flashing green T-Rex lights then fix when hit? Thx

It's the dinosaur for that paddock. It will move from shot to shot and will fail your lit rescue shots if they overlap for too long. Shoot the required shots (rescue, trap, helipad) to make the dinosaur flash green and yellow, then shoot the dino to capture it. Shooting the dino without capture lit will stop it from moving for 20 seconds.

#4570 1 year ago

Off the left troll into the merlin eject awards a troll bomb. Right troll to castle lock also awards a bomb.

"You call that a shot?!?"

#4585 1 year ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Oups, you were way faster to answer!
Yes I call this a shot because you know this shot is rewarding and then instead of just hitting the troll you hit it more precisely to get this bomber. I can assure you that it is a very doable shot that motivates you to shot in that way.

The quote is actually what the left troll says when you make the combo

1 week later
#4770 1 year ago
Quoted from modsbox:

I wonder if Stern has decided to never make them again?

Probably gave up after their attempt to pass a "plank with wings" as a bug failed...

3 weeks later
#5019 1 year ago

There's a permanent fix involving silicone lubricant - read back in this thead, but in the meantime, loosen the set screw, remove the truck and use rubbing alcohol to clean the metal shaft and the flipper bushing it goes through on the playfield. It'll work like new for some hundreds of games until it gets dirty again.

#5051 1 year ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

Is there any way to disable the t-rex multiball?
I usually just trap up and wait the 30sec or so, but it would be easier, if you were just able to disable it.

Why would you skip it? Even if jackpots are low, you can trap and shoot rescues or whatnot with the other ball...

If you shoot jackpots in C-H-A-O-S order, each doubles and you can make some good points even with a low starting value...

Failing all that, I think you can set T-Rex modes so that all are available from start, so you could change the upcoming mode and delay TRMB til later.

#5065 1 year ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

Well, it halts all progression. Little return, stops flow, takes time, and atleast i usually end up with the remaining ball out of controll.

Yep, I get you... the progression halt is a bummer. I usually either try to get a paddock going first so I have rescues to shoot, or I go all in, start TRMB immediately and focus solely on getting a max hurryup and jackpots in order, trying to beat a 240M record TRMB.

1 week later
#5099 1 year ago

Museum comes after all the T-Rex modes are played. The order of the three single-ball modes is random after the initial feed T-Rex multiball - hitting the truck changes the mode. Rampage isn't necessarily the last mode.

Museum will lite when its ready.

#5103 1 year ago

Maybe that's the default order, but as soon as you qualify a mode (after Feed), every hit to the truck changes the lit mode, so you only get them in the default order if you never hit the truck to change it.

This is default behavior... there may be a setting to lock them into a particular order, haven't checked.

#5142 1 year ago

I still have one of the cups pictured in that standee.. unfortunately failed to collect them all though.

#5239 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

There are hundreds, if not thousands of posts here on pinside from guys trying to sell their products. How is this any different?

The product he's advertising is hot garbage?

#5240 1 year ago

There's probably a node board in there and the mode won't fire off without seeing it. Hence the price... can't let any of those $40 node boards out of the building for under $500!

#5242 1 year ago

I will say this: I'm glad the mode is a multiple-game add-a-letter thing, meaning it'll likely always be disabled in competition gameplay and won't really become a factor in the rulesheet or game strategy. At least that's my hope.

#5373 1 year ago

Our February 2020 pro came with black.

1 week later
#5516 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

That said, the game is driving me nuts with fast outlane drains that I can't seem to figure out what sort of nudge will save me. Maybe it's just pinball (and that's a fair answer, I'll still play!), but would love to hear that there is a nudging strategy for those outlanes. It's like the inlane post is higher, so once it gets past that, pretty much hosed a good majority of the time.

Best advice is to keep the ball from heading to the outlanes in the first place. Practice making shots, try to set things up so you can collect multiple awards from the difficult shots (O) to minimize attempts at them. Don't always flip at balls coming past the upper flipper if there's nothing lit on the tower or upper loop... misses introduce side to side action, and you can usually gain control of the ball on the lower flippers if you let it pass. The spitter shot is relatively easy to make and misses are forgiving;, try to setup dino captures here and use it as a safety shot for out of control balls.

Left outlane save is critical - if its not lit, shoot the spitter until you get a dribble into the pops.. this lites "lite escape" target. Shoot this target anytime its lit as left outlane drains are very common.

Don't be afraid to loosen the tilt liberally as well

#5545 1 year ago

Yea, tower shots are important for progress.. as you learn the game's geometry and get better at right outlane saves, start taking more cracks at it.

1 week later
#5698 1 year ago
Quoted from kingfishtr:

Since I don’t score well I set my replay award to Extra Ball. But it doesn’t seem to always give it to me when I get to 124mil or so. Can anyone explain how these other replay related adjustments work? I don’t completely understand... before I start tinkering with them.
Adjustment 1 Replay Type? Auto, none, fixed, dynamic...
Adjust. 2 Replay percentage?
Adjust 4 Replay Levels?
Adjust 11 Replay boost?

Your replay is likely set to auto and it reflexed above 124M after you beat that score.

If you want EBs at regular score intervals, set replay to fixed score, set the score thresholds you want, and set replay to extra ball.

Adj 1: Set to fixed.
Adj 2: irrelevant - sets auto replay percentage so the game manages it. Meant for locations.
Adj 4: Set the score level(s) you want to award EB(s) at.
Adj 4: irrelevant - sets how much higher the replay boosts to upon award. Meant for lcoations.

#5702 1 year ago

Hmm, try turning replay boost off and percentage to disabled (if it has such a setting). Perhaps one of those is overriding the fixed 100M level.

1 week later
#5762 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

How much does HD glass improve this game? Do you guys think it's worth it?

Not worth it. They added the ability to dim the backbox automagically when you start a game. Set the gameplay brightness to 2% in adjustments and you won't need the fancy glass unless you have other annoying lighting in the room. The attract mode brightness is a separate setting and can be left bright.

#5811 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Smart Missile is only available if the newton ball is on the right, while Super Spinner is only available if the newton ball is on the left - this is to specifically make the shot harder to hit.

If you get smart missile in multiball, you can use the other ball to knock the truck to the right during selection process to make the shot easier.

1 week later
#5972 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Every machine of course, plays a bit differently, and on my pro, you absolutely cannot backhand the raptor pit dead center. You can hit the side targets, but never ever a dead center shot. And since people are discussing it, my ball feeds out of the raptor pit to the left flipper for a catch or it will dead bounce to the right flipper.

Own a pro, played a LE the other day and found its raptor MB much easier to start. Just gotta bonk the gate enough times to start, while pro needs the back target at the end to get it going. The target funnel on our game is tight so the back target is difficult to hit, especially from a left flipper trap.

Quoted from RipleYYY:

i told Keith about that, he knews it, as i was not the only one...

Yep and he said it was a badly set-up game. Perhaps the funnel had been bashed open a bit more, making for easier shots?

#5976 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I have played on a Pro where the Raptor pit was very exploitable though. You need to make sure the sling switches are set sensitive or else you can back hand that shot and catch it on the left flipper all day.

This may be the issue with the machines Ripley ran into. On mine, the slings are sensitive and you're usually fighting to regain control of any raptor pen shot, even little backhands. You might get the first RMB doing that, but not two. Just too difficult to survive the rebounds consistently.

Just reinforces the importance of proper machine setup at tournaments.

#6057 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

This is my first Stern NIB. My 3D printed flipper aligner shows the lower flippers are both offset.
Despite the tool, the straight edge held up to the lane guide shows it's off.
Are these misaligned from the factory or is this how the geometry on this/Stern games is?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Flippers are droopy on purpose; C O and S shots need them droopy to be reasonable makeable.

1 week later
#6208 1 year ago

Lately we've had the opposite problem, most shots seem to go around now even if you rattle it a bit. Makes relighting Escape and getting Chaos add-a-balls a bit tougher. Maybe don't' fix what ain't broke...

1 week later
#6339 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

SUPERTRANQ time!!! Hit that green button!!!
It's a reflex for me now. I hear that callout I slap that lockdown bar button. Of course I still can't hit the ramp with the extra time lol.

Sometimes its better to use the supertranq before the dino gets to an employee...

Say you're trapped up on the left, the dino is at the center shot you've got an employee at the O shot and the dino is about to move to the right ramp. Hit the tranq now, freeze the dino in the middle (easy) shot, now make the helipad then middle to capture him immediately. If you miss the helipad shot you still have 20sec to recover and make the helipad->center combo for the capture. Easier IMHO than trying to capture at the r ramp or O shot.

1 month later
#6923 1 year ago

The screw only holds down one side of the springsteel ramp entry flap. Remove it and affix the flap with a bit of mylar; problem solved.

1 week later
#7119 1 year ago
Quoted from Kjarkur:

I like my jp very much. But I must admit that I'm not a pro player, so I was thinking of a center post that ease the gameplay for me.
This is a prototype done with my home cnc machine. I'll make some with a laser cutter. Leave me a pm if you are interested. [quoted image][quoted image]

I dunno about you, but most of my drains are via outlane. Loosening the tilt can help you save those center drains without needing a post.

1 month later
#7697 1 year ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Recently my smart missile is only giving me complete chaos as the only option and neither flipper changes it. I swapped my premium for an LE recently and have been seeing it on this machine but don’t recall ever having it as the only option prior. Is this normal?

Lockbar button changes the smart missile option

#7718 1 year ago

Without the thin metal flap, tower shots that roll back or fall after not quite making it around will eventually damage the exposed edge of the playfield where the U-ramp mounts. The mount point is recessed and the flap protects the edges of that recess.

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