Looks like a throwback to TZ 9.4h allowing you to practice LITZ. Escape Nublar mode is so cool he doesn't want it limited to only those who can finish the paddocks?

So when you escape (in the main game), is it game over like TnA, or does the whole thing start over for more scoring?

It is likely that you are bricking the shot, not the spinner A shot from the left flipper cannot touch the right wall or the ball will usually rattle in the curve and die. It's difficult to get a clean shot from the left; I expect most of mine won't make it all the way around but its a good way to get into the pops. Shots from the right are more forgiving, but if you catch the left wall too low, you may bounce into the right side and rattle. Shots that don't touch the right wall fly around no problem.

Now, grow them inside the game.

Stern will sell you a light for $279

That grease is going to capture pinball dust and turn to hard crud eventually. Best bet is to disassemble the flipper, clean off all the grease, then reassemble with proper distance between the flipper bat and the playfield bushing.

Stern is bad about shipping games with improper clearance. If the crank is clamped to the flipper shaft too high or too low, the plunger binds as it goes into the coil crooked. You need the crank clamped so that the plunger is aligned with the coil and goes straight in, not crooked up/down. This is generally achieved with about 1/16" clearance between the bottom of the bat and the bushing. WMS used to ship spacers in the goody bag to get the appropriate clearance, not sure if Stern still does or if clearance is the same.

That's a bummer if they're shipping parts that are non-conforming. We've not had issues with any of our JP flipper mechs, had to turn power down on rt flipper to 235 or so to keep left ramp shots under control.

Yep, it's a result of the left ramp design. Because the flap sticks out past the entrance, shots that just barely hit either post will already have an upward trajectory and do that rejection thing, banging off the ramp cover. I took the cover off, but all that does is allow these post shots to carom off onto the plastics. Especially on the left... you'll think the shot is good but it'll clip the metal protector and bang around, except now the rattle goes up/down in addition to left/right.

There's another thing that might be happening.. a clean shot that hugs the wall on either side of the ramp will first hit the screw hole in the flap, and then catch the edge of the flap rivet. This could also lead to rattles into the cover. I mylared over the hole to help mitigate, and want to eventually grind a bit off the rivets so the ball can't hit them. Same with the screw in the tower ramp approach.

It's not strange, it's the cheap sockets Stern uses. Been this way for years, just like their junk coil stops. Flipper vibration causes intermittent connectivity in the socket, thats why it's always the inlanes. Pull the LED and squish the socket a bit to make it tighter.

Those red shots in TRex MB are like crack, I can't help but focus only on them, and usually screw up the whole MB. But, when I finally get 'em, 200M+ totals!

I have a strategy just for the hurryup part; first go for the right ramp to get its JP boost plus it feeds the two side shots, I try to get one. I keep shooting rt ramp to set up the side shots until I get them both or the timer runs low, then shoot the (easy) center shot to reset timer and more chances at the side shots. Once I get them (or if timer runs low again), shoot S combo into left ramp to start with max possible value.

I can usually flutter-trap the post release on MB start, then try for C with autolaunch.. if I miss, post pass and try again.. all about the red arrows from then on LOL

It's the dinosaur for that paddock. It will move from shot to shot and will fail your lit rescue shots if they overlap for too long. Shoot the required shots (rescue, trap, helipad) to make the dinosaur flash green and yellow, then shoot the dino to capture it. Shooting the dino without capture lit will stop it from moving for 20 seconds.

Off the left troll into the merlin eject awards a troll bomb. Right troll to castle lock also awards a bomb.

"You call that a shot?!?"

The quote is actually what the left troll says when you make the combo

Probably gave up after their attempt to pass a "plank with wings" as a bug failed...

There's a permanent fix involving silicone lubricant - read back in this thead, but in the meantime, loosen the set screw, remove the truck and use rubbing alcohol to clean the metal shaft and the flipper bushing it goes through on the playfield. It'll work like new for some hundreds of games until it gets dirty again.

Why would you skip it? Even if jackpots are low, you can trap and shoot rescues or whatnot with the other ball...

If you shoot jackpots in C-H-A-O-S order, each doubles and you can make some good points even with a low starting value...

Failing all that, I think you can set T-Rex modes so that all are available from start, so you could change the upcoming mode and delay TRMB til later.

Yep, I get you... the progression halt is a bummer. I usually either try to get a paddock going first so I have rescues to shoot, or I go all in, start TRMB immediately and focus solely on getting a max hurryup and jackpots in order, trying to beat a 240M record TRMB.

Museum comes after all the T-Rex modes are played. The order of the three single-ball modes is random after the initial feed T-Rex multiball - hitting the truck changes the mode. Rampage isn't necessarily the last mode.

Museum will lite when its ready.

Maybe that's the default order, but as soon as you qualify a mode (after Feed), every hit to the truck changes the lit mode, so you only get them in the default order if you never hit the truck to change it.

This is default behavior... there may be a setting to lock them into a particular order, haven't checked.

I still have one of the cups pictured in that standee.. unfortunately failed to collect them all though.

The product he's advertising is hot garbage?

There's probably a node board in there and the mode won't fire off without seeing it. Hence the price... can't let any of those $40 node boards out of the building for under $500!

I will say this: I'm glad the mode is a multiple-game add-a-letter thing, meaning it'll likely always be disabled in competition gameplay and won't really become a factor in the rulesheet or game strategy. At least that's my hope.

Our February 2020 pro came with black.

Best advice is to keep the ball from heading to the outlanes in the first place. Practice making shots, try to set things up so you can collect multiple awards from the difficult shots (O) to minimize attempts at them. Don't always flip at balls coming past the upper flipper if there's nothing lit on the tower or upper loop... misses introduce side to side action, and you can usually gain control of the ball on the lower flippers if you let it pass. The spitter shot is relatively easy to make and misses are forgiving;, try to setup dino captures here and use it as a safety shot for out of control balls.

Left outlane save is critical - if its not lit, shoot the spitter until you get a dribble into the pops.. this lites "lite escape" target. Shoot this target anytime its lit as left outlane drains are very common.

Don't be afraid to loosen the tilt liberally as well

Yea, tower shots are important for progress.. as you learn the game's geometry and get better at right outlane saves, start taking more cracks at it.

Would you believe Stern is shipping games related to a current #1 movie?

https://deadline.com/2020/06/weekend-box-office-coroanvirus-cinemark-jurassic-park-trolls-world-tour-jaws-1202966822/

Your replay is likely set to auto and it reflexed above 124M after you beat that score.

If you want EBs at regular score intervals, set replay to fixed score, set the score thresholds you want, and set replay to extra ball.

Adj 1: Set to fixed.
Adj 2: irrelevant - sets auto replay percentage so the game manages it. Meant for locations.
Adj 4: Set the score level(s) you want to award EB(s) at.
Adj 4: irrelevant - sets how much higher the replay boosts to upon award. Meant for lcoations.

Hmm, try turning replay boost off and percentage to disabled (if it has such a setting). Perhaps one of those is overriding the fixed 100M level.

Not worth it. They added the ability to dim the backbox automagically when you start a game. Set the gameplay brightness to 2% in adjustments and you won't need the fancy glass unless you have other annoying lighting in the room. The attract mode brightness is a separate setting and can be left bright.

If you get smart missile in multiball, you can use the other ball to knock the truck to the right during selection process to make the shot easier.

Own a pro, played a LE the other day and found its raptor MB much easier to start. Just gotta bonk the gate enough times to start, while pro needs the back target at the end to get it going. The target funnel on our game is tight so the back target is difficult to hit, especially from a left flipper trap.

Yep and he said it was a badly set-up game. Perhaps the funnel had been bashed open a bit more, making for easier shots?

This may be the issue with the machines Ripley ran into. On mine, the slings are sensitive and you're usually fighting to regain control of any raptor pen shot, even little backhands. You might get the first RMB doing that, but not two. Just too difficult to survive the rebounds consistently.

Just reinforces the importance of proper machine setup at tournaments.

Flippers are droopy on purpose; C O and S shots need them droopy to be reasonable makeable.

Lately we've had the opposite problem, most shots seem to go around now even if you rattle it a bit. Makes relighting Escape and getting Chaos add-a-balls a bit tougher. Maybe don't' fix what ain't broke...

Sometimes its better to use the supertranq before the dino gets to an employee...

Say you're trapped up on the left, the dino is at the center shot you've got an employee at the O shot and the dino is about to move to the right ramp. Hit the tranq now, freeze the dino in the middle (easy) shot, now make the helipad then middle to capture him immediately. If you miss the helipad shot you still have 20sec to recover and make the helipad->center combo for the capture. Easier IMHO than trying to capture at the r ramp or O shot.

The screw only holds down one side of the springsteel ramp entry flap. Remove it and affix the flap with a bit of mylar; problem solved.

I dunno about you, but most of my drains are via outlane. Loosening the tilt can help you save those center drains without needing a post.

Lockbar button changes the smart missile option

Without the thin metal flap, tower shots that roll back or fall after not quite making it around will eventually damage the exposed edge of the playfield where the U-ramp mounts. The mount point is recessed and the flap protects the edges of that recess.