You sound like me! I was dead set on TMNT - I actually like the theme even better. Have spent some time lately that has TMNT and JP and been playing them both. After a few sessions, I'm leaning more towards JP and think that's what I'm getting next.

I believe it’s normal for high scores to reset aside from the grand champion score- that’s the point of GC. Did that score reset?

Where are you getting that from? Manual says 6.5 degrees.

Not really anything complicated - just push the button in only half way...

elaborate...

Hey everyone! New to the club this week - loving it so far, but have a couple of questions to see if these items are normal as I unfortunately have found a couple defects on my playfield...

1) My ball has gotten hung up on the spinner gate a couple of times - is it normal that the metal rod from the gate sticks way out towards the back of the machine? See image below - ball gets stuck right at the point of the arrow.

2) Often times when the ball is popping around the amber pop bumpers, the gate to the right of them will flap open and the ball will actually sneak out of that gate instead of going out the far right to feed the top flipper - is that normal?

3) Finally, how common is it that a ball shot through the spinner should end up in the pop bumpers as opposed to spinning around to the top flipper? I'd say mine does this more then 3 out of 4 times..
InkedIMG_5916_LI (resized).jpg

Thanks man! Good to hear these are normal, but to clarify these weren't the PF defects I was referring to.. These were just questions I had to see if things needed to get adjusted/tuned as a result of finding other things wrong with my PF such as pooling in one area and wood grain. Out of curiosity, would you consider the wood grain here a defect or randomness of the pinball hobby?

https://imgur.com/a/rNzysQs

Hey there -

Never had a problem with the self-plunger going up the ramp, but here's how I fixed my issues with the auto-plunger.. Maybe give this a try to see if it will work? First, make sure the 2 auto-plunger prongs are touching the ball when its resting. Only my left one was initially, so I took a pair of pliers and held the unit still while I used needle nose to bend the right one in slightly until they both touched.

Second, and this one I think had the most effect, is to turn down the power on the auto-plunger coil. It's Game Adjustment 3XX something - I set mine down to 150 and it works 90% of the time. I might even go lower but haven't played around with it yet.

The left outlane is a ball save (labeled escape) - I’d start my troubleshooting with that switch.

Question for those who did the jeep replacement mod. I received the new jeep in the mail today and have the old jeep taken apart, but how did you mount the jeep to the hardware? The bottom of the new jeep is very different than the stock jeep and it's not even flat..?

Yes, the amazing audio package put together by Tim is available on all three - you must direct message him timlah79 to get it. The latest one that includes video clips from the movie is only Premium/LE.

Here's the thread for the audio project if you're interested in learning more:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project

Oh man! I get rejected from this shot all the time... Wonder if this is my issue? Can you tell me more about how you ground it down? Did you just sand some of the top off? That didn't impact your ability to get a screwdriver inserted?

Yes, flat heads seems much better here! A little baffling why Stern would use such a tall/rounded head screw in this placement and the helipad ramp, but one would like to think they have their reasons and know what they're doing...

I've heard they sell it at Michaels, but haven't ever checked.. Lots of interesting ideas here though - I wonder if some of these would also improve the plunger shot going up the helipad?

Also, something I was thinking about today.. Anyone know if Rick Naegele (the code developer for JP) is a user on here? I know he's likely busy polishing up the code for AIQ, but would like to ask if & when co-op is being added to JP.

I am interested! However, your link isn't working.. It just takes me to their homepage. Do you need to swap it out with one that is public-facing?

Based on your second video it looks like your power is WAY too high. You practically have an airball coming out of the lane! If it's only happening on the auto-plunge, then you know its one of two things: the power of the coil, or the alignment of the fork.

As I mentioned back in post #6795, lower your auto-plunger coil power if you haven't already.. Mine is all the way down to 155 and I rarely have a miss anymore. And then, make sure the auto-plunger forks are both touching the ball at rest. If they aren't, bend one until they both do.

It plays about a 7 minute song during this, so you might not want that...

As someone who has installed several Cliffy's in the location you're referring to, its really not that bad.. The playfield is already 'ripped up' in that hole based on the initial installation. At this point, it acts more like a tack than a screw, so you can completely ignore the threading. As someone else said, you simply have to remove the nut on the underside, and tap the screw out. Once you install the cliffy, just line the screw up in the same orientation as it was installed in originally and it will tap right back in simply.

Man, I cannot stand that myself - good to hear I'm not the only one. Are new buttons being sold with the same issue, or no? If I buy these from PBL, will they not have that?

https://www.pinballlife.com/cabinet-flipper-button-opaque-1-18-shaft.html

Yes. Game feature adjustment #306

...Just do some testing man. You want the bare minimum that gets the ball out on the first coil plunge without causing any issues. Mine is set to 190, so I guess start there.

Sure have. Definitely not a knock-off, just straight from the actual production source instead. It's legit and would recommend.

...That node error is because you have the coin door open man.

Unless you're planning to install a playfield protector on it (which many don't recommend), I wouldn't worry about these - your playfield is about to get a shit ton worse after playing (dimples, scratches, etc.).. This is not a hobby for perfectionists or worriers - just play it and have fun.

Phase 1 - Raptor Tri-Ball: Shoot the left and right ramps once each for a Raptor Jackpot. The second Jackpot is worth double that of the first. The Jackpot value increases with switch hits (by how much?)

Phase 2 - Raptor Chaos: The CHAOS letters will light. Shoot all the CHAOS shots (not necessarily in order) for Raptor Chaos Jackpots worth 1/5 of the Double Jackpot value.

Phase 3 - Raptor Rampage: Raptor Tri-Ball becomes "Raptor Hex-Ball”! (or “Raptor Quint-Ball”). 3 more balls are now in play, but no more than 6. Super Jackpots are lit on the right ramp and upper loop, with the base value of the Double Jackpot, and are multiplied by the number of balls in play. The second Jackpot, once again, will be worth double the value of the first Jackpot. Get 2x Scoring ready during this phase, and watch your score skyrocket! Collecting either Super Jackpot will also award you with a Fossil for your efforts.

No problem at all, but can't take credit for it.. If you aren't already intimately familiar with this page, then you're going to enjoy reading through it! I'm on about my 30th read now...

http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644

Personally the pro was the right fit for me. A lot of people swear by the moving T-Rex, but to me I don't find it worth the additional investment. Additioanlly, I've watched several videos of premium play and feel like the T-Rex grabbing the ball and the raptor gate slow down gameplay too much for my taste.

Obviously you're playing amazingly even despite this, but I don't believe that's where the top flipper should be at all... That's gotta be jacking up your game a bit.

Wow... That's all they added?! Weak. I think there goes hopes of seeing things like cooperative play in the future.

Something that's not worth updating for.. It was first released in TMNT - it lets you play the different music from the game without playing the game.

Yes, anytime you do an update you'll lose any custom sounds you have gotten through Pinball Browser and will need to reload the PB macro to inject the sounds back in - that's assuming Stern didn't block PB from working...

Not cheating. I removed the flap entirely and never looked back.

Um, do you have a source for that, because I've never heard that before. The two placements I've heard are completely centered with the plastic flipper, or lined up with the top of the plastic flipper, but never the top of the rubber.

I've also seen about a hundred different videos of people playing JP2's, including Keith and I've never seen a flipper that far below.

Don't get me wrong, if you like it there and it makes it easier for you to connect with shots, then by all means you do you.. But, if you're prepping for some tournament that's on location, then I can pretty much promise you that you're doing yourself a disservice because the machine you play on next will look nothing like that.

Chill. I know you probably think that’s rude, but you aren’t reading posts before replying. I’m very familiar with the posts your referring to, but this is different. I'm asking for a source that the dot should be lined up with the top of the rubber as IBARAKURO is stating. If that exists in this thread, then forgive me, but from my knowledge all other alignment posts match this one:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/93#post-5589832

Where it calls out that Keith was referring to the top of the plastic bat and not the top of the rubber. The alignment shown in the image above is wrong and I think that should be clarified so that an new owner who comes to this thread doesn't set their machine up based on it.

I hate to break it to you, but the fact that this change is in this release means that this IS "factory" now. You should absolutely change it. It's the equivalent of a balance adjustment to rules that have been released after millions of playtests. This is the new default.

Guys, come on.. These are the re-order numbers and literally appear on every single machine since the 80's. Every machine that's ever built has a prefix, and then every plastic, metal, piece, or sticker within that machine has a suffix so that when you're trying to find a part years later you can intelligently (or not apparently) tell someone what you're looking for.

As an example, Jurassic Parks prefix for any plastics is: 830-1038-XX and the XX is the number you are currently asking about. So if you want to replace the t-Rex plastic over the left slingshot, you'd look at that number (which is -86) and know to ask someone to order part: 830-1038-86 if it ever breaks.

Every sticker on the machine is the same way.

I think it's handy in lots of scenarios, not just with distributors. If you file a ticket directly with Stern it comes in handy - they carry all of individual pieces for all machines under warranty or that are currently in production. Its handy if you're talking to other owners and trying to troubleshoot something (it's not just the aesthetic pieces of a machine that have this number system - literally every single piece of metal has one going back decades). It's also handy if you tear down an old machine and want to sell it for parts - these are the numbers you should list on eBay, etc.

1) Yes, those are them. They are less 'holes' anymore and more just indentations. I see them in your pic - I've highlighted them here.
Screenshot 2021-01-03 143948 (resized).jpg

2) "Does he mean the rubber face edge that makes contact with the ball?" No. "The plastic face edge of the bat?" Yes. "Where should the bottom ones be aligned?" Middle of the plastic part of the bats should line up with the middle of the hole. In my opinion, your top flipper could come down (right) slightly. I've highlighted the "hole/indentation" in this picture. If you decide to follow Elwins positioning, then this hole should align with the top of the yellow bat.
Screenshot 2021-01-03 144540 (resized).jpg

"For the top flipper is the suggestion that the indent is aligned with the plastic bat face?"

Yes.

"I assume the rubber post comes into play a bit then on a shot that zips around and doesn’t get hit by the upper right? Is this true too?"

Yes, it will give the ball a bump so that it doesn't go SDTM.

It applies to both.. Per the Rules:

"Because there was no game beforehand, you are spotted 12 rescues and a default path to Visitor Center (the far edge of the map depending on what direction the truck is already facing)."

Shooting the shots that are within the orange banners lights those point lights. Then hitting the spinner cashes in on all of the lit bonuses and resets them.

Pro owners.. Anyone else get slightly annoyed by how long the T-Rex multi-ball animation (and subsequent ball hold) is? From my experience it doesn't appear to be very responsive to 'skipping' via pressing both flipper buttons in... I assume its built this way due to the Prem/LE animated TREX, but on the pro, I wish there was a way to turn it off.

No, this is what I'm saying.. Both flippers does not seem to impact this animation. It still plays just as long.

Yes, but you're in the wrong thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project

The only way to get it is to send a PM to Tim timlah79

Dirty!

This is a must-install mod in my opinion and the first thing I order even before the new machine arrives.

While I would agree the translite and apron look amazing, this is one of the worst websites I've ever seen. For someone who apparently is trying to sell products, they really should put some more effort into making their website more usable.

Most likely they've just twisted themselves out with all the vibration. Super simple fix. Just unscrew the 3 screws holding the plastic on and give the bulbs a turn.

ebay.com link: itm

Yikes!! Didn't even realize they came in different sizes. You're right, my bad!